Joined on December 15, 2003
Last Post on November 30, 2012
@ November 30, 2012 10:55 AM in How to effectively exercise stagnant water in open systemwhen I think of open systems and legionnaires disease is with non barrier pex tubing which allows oxygen to permeate through walls. I think that is the biggest difference between your system and what I dislike about radiant open systems....
I feel the argument of your situation versus the radiant non barrier pex tubing systems are totally separate and should be addressed separately.
@ November 30, 2012 10:45 AM in Munchkin 140 has code PrOPRO - is "low water pressure" - The water pressure switch is there to protect the boiler from low water/pressure conditions. Check to see what water pressure you have on the system. If it is below 12 # you need to find out what the problem is and correct it.
If your system is below 12#, the water pressure switch is just doing its job by alerting you to an issue.
If there is an issue with water pressure, could be failed expansion tank, failed pressure-reducing valve, etc.
@ August 30, 2011 10:24 AM in Water heater expansion tank.If you follow manufacturers instructions (like ME said above) then it wouldn't matter.
Set at minimum operating - then you have the correct amount of expansion room in the exp. tank.
If you did it like MEPlumber (for domestic) - that would work most of the time, but maybe not always - if the operating pressure were higher than 60# - less expansion room - relief valve go poppy or weepy, weepy, weepy every hot/cold cycle.
@ August 25, 2011 1:54 PM in BRADFORD COMBI COREI was told they made significant improvements back in 2003, but here is what I have experienced. Original install 2002, failed in 2005, replaced, failed in 2011.
Wondering if we should go another route, instead of replacing again.
How many others have failures after 2003?
Thanks for sharing your experiences.
@ July 22, 2011 9:56 AM in A.O. Smith buys LochinvarI'm still in shock. Waiting to see how this is going to affect the market offerings of both companies....only time will tell. wow.
@ April 21, 2011 4:50 PM in commercial water heater used for testing - source?Does anybody know where I can locate a source for this type of water heater?
Thanks in Advance! - Bob
Intended use of heater is to supply heated water to a vessel being hydro tested.
-->a. Unit will be operated for upwards of two days and then returned to storage.Heater unit can be storage for upwards of 1 year between uses.
-->c. Openings for the heating sources are to be such that while in storage small animals cannot get into the heating chamber. i. All intake and exhaust openings are to have covers. If covers are not attached they will need to be labeled as to which opening they protect.
-->2. Unit must be self contained and be able to be moved by use of standard fork truck.
-->a. Fork truck pocket are to be provided so that the unit can be picked up from any direction
-->b. Pockets are to have protective plating as required so that a missed lift does not hit heating equipment or controls.
-->3. Facilities services available at each building column
-->a. Water supply provided at 90 PSI.
-->b. Natural gas connection
-->c. Compress air connection at 100 PSI
-->d. 120 VAC, 20 amp
-->e. 480 VAC, 200 Amp
-->4. Water temperature conditions are as follows:
-->a. Winter nominal temperature is 54 degrees F.
-->b. Summer nominal temperature is 68 degrees F.
-->c. 2 inch fire hose attached to outside fire hydrant supplies water at a rate of 2000 gallons per hour.
-->d. Temperature of heated water to vessel being tested needs to be 120 to 130 degrees F.
-->5. Estimated heating capacity of 1,000,000 BTU.
-->a. Optional natural gas. 1 inch gas connections are available at every column within the plant.
-->b. Optional electrical heat and controls. 120 and 480 VAC connections are available at every column.
-->6. Heating element options:
Single heating chamber capable of about 1,000,000 BTU and controls to
adjust for changes in incoming water temperature and volume rates.
-->b. Multi chamber heating units with parallel heating paths.
--> i. When combined, capable of producing 1,000,000 BTU and 2000 gallons with one chamber inoperative.
Controls so heating in some chamber will be automatically turned off
when not needed. And automatic valving to prevent closed loop between
--> iii. Standard “Off the shelf” unit so a damaged unit can be replaced.
-->7. Controls are to be such that the operator can tell the incoming and outgoing water temperatures. Indications as to when electrical power is on for the unit.
Indication as to when heating source is operating.
-->8. Vendor to provide with heater
3 sets of operators manuals
3 sets of service manual including spare parts lists
Drawing of the heating equipment in paper form and AutoCAD format. The cad format is for layout of equipment for testing.
@ January 27, 2011 11:49 AM in thermistor - ratings and information?I didn't look at the parts breakdown closely enough.
The temperature sensor is listed, but not on the diagram......
I'm sorry to take up your time with my making it harder than it should have been.
@ January 27, 2011 9:56 AM in thermistor - ratings and information?the first contact told me they didn't have any information on the sensors. The recommendation was to upgrade/revise the control. I will try to contact some others at Lochinvar.
Thanks for your help - I really appreciate it!
@ January 26, 2011 4:00 PM in thermistor - ratings and information?http://www.lochinvar.com/_linefiles/CF-CH%28P%29-I&S-02.pdf
page 26 and 29 list a 4.8 ohm/F
what does ohm/F mean? Does it mean 4.8 ohm @ o deg. F?
If someone is familiar with the T775 control, did they ever make a change or will these sensors work with any age T775 control?
These look like they are rated (1K at 0 deg. C) so I'm not sure what the 4.8 ohm/F means on my unit literature.
Tim McElwain - thanks for your help!
@ January 26, 2011 1:32 PM in thermistor - ratings and information?I need to get a failing sensor, because the manufacturer is saying the existing control isn't available and I need to "upgrade/revise" the entire control. All I have is a bad sensor (the little 3/8" diameter X 1" sensor with two leads - similar to a tekmar 071) but I am having trouble finding any information on how they are listed.
I have the ohms resistance charts on tekmar sensors, and various boiler manufacturers sensors that they use, but the one I need to replace puts out 3,480 ohms @ 74.5 deg. F (the reason I know is the unit has both a supply and return sensor and only the supply is bad).
question #1: how are sensors rated? (I think I remember where it is the resistance at a certain temp. - but I can't find anything in writing to validate my sometimes questionable memory)
question # 2: can someone give me a direction on brands or how I can find a replacement sensor?
Thanks in advance for any help.
@ December 10, 2010 5:00 PM in WM 1013-200page 51 -- 2nd light means circulator and blower on. Does the blower come on? Is the circulator on? Give us some more details.
limit switches and block switch contacts closed - are for the third light.
The manual below, I believe, is the operation sequence:
@ December 1, 2010 9:54 AM in munchkin helpMark - the things mentioned on previous post is what the factory told me (I told the contractor) to do.
"1. check to make sure board is programmed correctly
2. then have him jump flue eco out and see if problem goes away
3. if no change try jumping water switch then water eco. Try the flue eco first."
So I went through all 30 parameters with him. I wanted to check the parameter settings like parameter 1 - de (but could be changed to di, de, or do).
Everything was programmed right. (again I'm not talking about the board programming from a rep or factory). I am sending him another board as this one is incorrectly controlling the blower.
@ November 30, 2010 10:57 AM in munchkin helpI meant that the temperature settings weren't changed from default settings. The board itself was programmed from the factory (elevation, fuel, boiler size etc.).
Here are other suggestions I have received to check? Although I don't know what "board is programmed correctly" really means?
to make sure board is programmed correctly
2. then have him jump flue eco
out and see if problem goes away
3. if no change try jumping water switch
then water eco. Try the flue eco first.
@ November 29, 2010 2:30 PM in munchkin helpI've got a contractor customer (I'm a wholesaler - with some knowledge of the unit) who was having a F14 error (fan speed too high) last week, so I asked him to unplug the red/white/blue/black connection and see if the blower would go to fast speed. It did. He replaced the board with the new 926 board.
Now when he installed it, he didn't program it. (It is all default settings).
It now goes into pre-purge (full speed 3850 X 10 rpm), blower never slows down to ignition speed of 2695 X 10 rpm, and lights off, then shuts off after about 30-45 seconds (no fault code), then repeats over and over. I think it is weird that it doesn't go into a fault code and doesn't change speed.
He's going back later today or 1st thing in the morning.
For some reason I am thinking there is a programming issue, where there needs to be a change but can't find anything. Anyone have any experience?
Thanks in advance.
@ November 22, 2010 11:12 AM in So when IS the new Knight going to be available?http://www.lochinvar.com/products/default.aspx?type=productline&lineid=11
no manuals available yet. I would keep checking on the above link for the manual.
@ November 18, 2010 4:57 PM in Advice on boiler/tankless/hot water heater for radiant garage and workshopHey Ned. What do you do for a living? I might need some advice sometime.....
@ November 8, 2010 4:11 PM in Monitor MZ Boiler #MZ40sorry - didn't see that you were a contractor. Check the contact on the website though.
Hope that helps.
@ November 8, 2010 4:10 PM in Monitor MZ Boiler #MZ40click on "dealer locator" on the top.
Also "Find a Contractor" on this website.
@ October 31, 2010 1:46 PM in Circulator pump moving water slowly on hydronic radiant floor systemsince you got the information to help you, can you explain how you got into this predicament?
Since they've given you the info to make the system work, I should help you make it SAFE. Make sure you have a pressure safety valve that is rated for 30# and DO NOT use the one that may have come with the tankless which is a temp. (210 deg. F) and press. (125#) relief valve
Where did you get the materials and did someone give you a piping diagram or did you try to use something you found somewhere?
@ October 30, 2010 2:17 PM in Circulator pump moving water slowly on hydronic radiant floor systemyou need to call a professional. There are too many things here wrong for me to try and help you. See if there are any contractors in your area in the "Find a Contractor" at the top of the page.
@ October 29, 2010 12:59 PM in 3 questionsOn those jobs with microzones, sometimes people use a buffer tank where the boiler maintains the tank temperature. If a microzone calls for heat, then it pulls off the tank and the boiler might not even fire.
What brand boiler are you using? just curious. I'm guessing a Weil-McLain Ultra?
@ October 29, 2010 11:51 AM in 3 questionsQ.1 I don't think so. but of course there are things to consider. (is it modulating boiler?) it may give you a little more mass, but in the grand scheme it won't add very much time.
Q.2 Again it depends on what type of boiler (modulating vs. on-off) If it is a modulating boiler and the load is withing the lower firing range, then shouldn't be a problem. On a on-off boiler and it is over-sized for "design heating outdoor temp" then it will short-cycle even worse for most of the winter (design conditions are rare in winter - 80% or more of heating load is approx. only 10% of the time)
Q.3 depends. if there are any small zones and they are the only ones calling and that load doesn't fall within the firing rate of the boiler, then you could have short-cycling.
Hope that helps.