Joined on December 11, 2003
Last Post on July 24, 2014
@ July 24, 2014 5:40 PM in Oil Heater - Saving MoneyOne percent per degree is what I heard for Long Island winters. Too many factors to consider to make a blanket statement though.
Obviously, if it is 68 degrees out and the temperature inside is lowered from 70 to 68, it would be 100%. But that is only if you have a furnace and an electric water heater............
@ July 22, 2014 12:30 AM in Advice needed on heating system installIf you are dead set against steam, change out the Burnham for a low mass hwbb system with maybe a wall hung boiler. Radiant might be the way to go if you are going to rip it all out.
@ July 21, 2014 8:12 PM in What is the name of this oil tank filling fitting?It is old and I remove it when I come across it because an adapter is needed to hook up the hose from the truck to the fill. That fitting is prone to leaks when filling the tank.
If you are still watching this thread, a better solution would be to replace that with a "scully" fitting. A direct replacement would be a male 45 scully. You could get it from a plumbing supply. Some oil companies carry these fittings on the truck and replace these.
One issue that I foresee is that a person might be afraid to remove that fitting from the outside because the pipe inside might move before the fitting. This may be a two man two pipe wrench job.
@ April 13, 2014 6:29 PM in Energy kinetics classic system 2000 problemIf you spent $$ and the problem remains, they should make good because the diagnosis was wrong. Ask for a different tech who knows the boiler.
@ March 4, 2014 12:37 AM in Calculating savings with degree daysI don't know the type of building you are referring to or how you calculate fuel used per degree day but if it is commercial with high night time set backs, you may get better results in your calculations if you change the baseline for degree days from 65 to a lower number.
An example for calculating oil deliveries; A new account autobody repair shop keeps the building at 59 instead of 69 of the average home. The average temperature for a time period is 51 degrees. In calculating degree days, a K factor (With oil it is degree days per gallon used.) is determined based on 14 degree days per day instead of 4 degree days per day. The determined 65 base K Factor is of course too high. In the next time period, the average temperature drops to 30 degrees. If the oil dispatcher does not correctly account for the lower building temp/incorrect K Factor, the tank runs out of oil.
Conversely, if the K factor is determined when the average temperature is 30 degrees, and the next period temp rises to 51, the second oil delivery will be way less than what was projected.
@ July 21, 2013 2:57 PM in outside oil fired boiler ?Be sure you provide proper venting and air for combustion and do everything according to the manual.
@ April 3, 2013 4:59 PM in Rattling soundIce,
The System 2000 heat exchanger is a 10' long piece of steel rolled into a coil. The design is a forced circulation counterflow so the flue passages exit in one direction and the boiler water returns from the system on the top of the boiler and exits the boiler at the hottest point closest to the flame. The supply tapping is in the back of the Frontiers and about midway in height toward one side.
The main (system) circulator should always be running if the burner is firing. Most of the time, the boiler is installed with zone valves so there is only one circulator.
@ March 27, 2013 5:06 PM in Heat Loss up chimney for water heaterObviously, the colder the outside temperature and/or the higher the water temperature in the heater, the greater the heat loss. A direct fired water heater can lose 8 degrees per hour when really cold. A direct vented water heater will have heat loss as well (maybe not quite as much?) unless there is insulated venting with a damper (which I'm not sure is available or practical).
My thinking without really investigating it is it would not pay to do this.
@ March 26, 2013 7:32 PM in Customers are confused when it comes to gas conversions...The payback time for switching boilers here is probably infinite. It is my understanding that maintenance costs are higher and the equipment doesn't last quite as long for mod/cons. Switching to gas while keeping the 3 year old boiler and switching burners is another issue though the cost for natural gas is a bit more than 55 cents per therm when delivery charges are figured in.
With the tiered pricing and delivery charges, the equivalent price per gallon is probably about $1.80 in NY
The customer did not want the cheaper option of switching out the burners? The payback time would have been waaaay shorter this way.
@ March 21, 2013 5:23 PM in I've always found better musicians here!I've never seen two tubas in a seven piece ensemble before.
I play trumpet to accompany our Sunday morning church service for hymns.
@ March 12, 2013 6:02 PM in Replacing expansion tankClose the valves (supply and return) to the system and before the boiler feed valve and drain the water in the extrol tank area to just about zero. If you have a 0-20 psi pen (tire) gauge, check the extrol pressure when the boiler pressure is at zero. You cannot get an accurate reading of the extrol tank with the system charged because it just measures the system pressure.
If there is say 5 psi in the extrol tank with the boiler area at or near zero psi, you can pump up the extrol tank to what you want your system to run at plus 1 or 2 psi.
@ March 6, 2013 5:13 PM in Standby losses out the chimneyWe have a Peerless 3 section with a tankless coil at our house. I turned the boiler off and took temperature readings a couple of years ago. I made a spreadsheet converting gallons to BTU's, etc.
The direct and indirect numbers assume 6 to 8 degrees per hour and 1/2 to 1 degree per hour idle loss respectively. It's been a while.
@ February 25, 2013 8:06 PM in Freeze damageI'm guessing it depends on why and under what circumstances "the heat went out".
If the house lost heat over a weekend while no one was there, who's responsibility is it?
@ February 24, 2013 5:02 PM in Convert only the oil burner head to gas?Rick,
There is an extra space in the address after "php" hit the backspace button in the address bar and the link should work.
@ February 24, 2013 3:49 PM in 2013 Long Island BIG UGLY....who's in?????I might bring one or two.
@ February 24, 2013 9:49 AM in What causes good automatic float type air vents to leak?It is interesting that one of the valves in the links submitted by Jean David has a limit of 5 ft per second. I didn't look to translate that to gpm but it is possible that this system moves water faster than that at the vent location.
When filling the boiler after the last time I had the system opened, I put about 20 psi in it and closed the valve after the boiler feed. I believe in leaving it closed especially if I have occasion to check it once in a while and there is a lwco. I only had to manually let air out of the now manual vent a couple of times and the system pressure went down to about 8 psi after a couple of weeks and stayed. The automatic feeder only pressurizes to about 8 psi anyway according to the gauge. The highest point in the system is less than 10 feet above the boiler and there have been no flow issues so it was operating that way for months.
@ February 24, 2013 9:41 AM in What causes good automatic float type air vents to leak?EK-3 Piped that way from the factory which is why I hesitated to think it was the location. I even put in a new float vent and that leaked too on the initial call for heat.
@ February 22, 2013 11:49 PM in What causes good automatic float type air vents to leak?There is one maid o mist air vent at the high point of the system in one of the zones that has no problems. The other two are above the boiler.
The system pressure changes about 3 to 4 psi cold to hot. I have set it as low as 8 and as high as 20. The pressure relief valve has never blown due to high pressure. The flow is good.
What is strange to me is why would one location leak water but not the other two feet away?
@ February 22, 2013 10:00 PM in What causes good automatic float type air vents to leak?The leaking location is in a 4 way black fitting above the boiler. I'm looking more for a theory of why it would happen on any system.
@ February 22, 2013 7:16 PM in Living Room Cold (Hot Water System)An easy thing to try would be to close the damper in the warmest area to lower the convection so the hot water can stay in the line longer to heat the rooms further down. Aluminum foil on the fins for extreme measure. Cheap solution.
@ February 22, 2013 7:12 PM in Freeze damageI'm not quate sure I understand your question. Obviously the burst pipes must be repaired. When the system is up and running again, there might be leaks that surface that weren't detected before. Maybe the pipes should be air tested before water is put back in them to see if there are any missing leaks.
The water being shut off had nothing to do with why the system froze. The boiler could have had a clogged filter for all I know. If it didn't run for hours or days and the house got cold, the pipes freeze even if it is a new boiler. That being said, if all this work is being done and the boiler is old and inefficient, why not replace it while all the work is being done?
@ February 22, 2013 6:26 PM in What causes good automatic float type air vents to leak?Two Taco automatic air vents on boiler. One leaks. I tried cleaning it out and reinstalled but it still leaked. For the heck of it, I tried switching the autovents. The one that was leaking did not leak at the new location but the other (non leaking one) leaked in the leaking location. Switched back and the leak is because of the location; not the vents.
The only thing I can think of is there is more turbulence at the leaking location. I am thinking the fix would be to add a nipple to make it higher.
Did anyone else ever have this problem?