Joined on November 25, 2008
Last Post on February 12, 2014
@ February 12, 2014 9:18 AM in Peerless PI-80, F14 FaultThese faults can be tricky. I will say that 95% of the time it's the combustion fan. The easiest is when they won't run at all. Then simply verify that you have 120 volts on the three pin harness going to the fan. If you do, then pull the five pin harness off the fan(red,white,blue,black). The fan should ramp up into high speed. If it does nothing it's the fan.
Another test you can do is on the low voltage harness to the unit. Test the red wire to ground which should be between 24-40 volts DC. If you have proper voltage I would replace the fan. These tests are not 100% though. i have had bad controls that would just throw the code sporadically but again this should take care of easily 95% of the issues.
Also. HTP(Heat Transfer Products) has a great APP for smart phones that has trouble shooting videos for all the fault codes. I can tell you that it is very helpful if you don't deal with these everyday.
@ December 18, 2013 11:36 AM in MunchkinHas the problem been resolved? I would start with a thorough cleaning of the heat exchanger. Check the refractory and target wall for damage or sign of condensate back-up. Pull the burner tube off and check the burner gasket(R1 or R2?). Also make sure the unit is draining condensate properly. Normally I see burner/burner gasket problems being the cause for delayed ignition. Recirculated flue gases can wreak havoc on electronics, swirl plates, and blowers but I doubt it has much to do with your situation.
We set our units at 9.5% CO2 on high fire
@ December 21, 2012 3:50 PM in Munchkin 140m F14: blower and/or circulation problem?Sounds like you are right on track! Everything you said sounds like a bad blower motor to me
@ December 20, 2012 10:19 AM in Munchkin 140m F14: blower and/or circulation problem?The fan can be tested by making sure we have 120v going to the fan. Then Measure the DC voltage from the red fan wire to the ground while it is connected to the fan. It should be between24-40 volts. If it is lower than 24 volts, check for excessive external loads connected to the boiler sensor terminals.
Now disconnect the 5 pin plug from the fan and check voltage on the red wire again. If it is now between 24-40 volts, replace the fan. If it is below 24 volts, replace the Control board. 95% of the time it is the combustion motor. Your board can be programmed with the 100 second post purge if you can find a wholesale house that does it.
As far as your temps creeping up when you were in low fire. you had the unit in service mode which doesnt care what your set point is. You most likely don't have any type of blockage so don't worry.
@ October 12, 2012 10:39 AM in Munchkin BoilerIf it hasn't been said before...The E02 is generally associated with a new control that has not been programmed properly.
I cannot fathom how it takes four hours to change a blower motor on any of these units...does this include a three hour nap in the change out? I wouold also love to see what the blower motors looked like when they were pulled out. Are there obvious signs of corrosion and such?
@ July 6, 2012 1:32 PM in (2) TIF 8500A CO AnalyzerI have two TIF 8500A Analyzers That are nearly new. One of them still has the original batteries in the box.
"The TIF8500A is a professional grade service tool for accurate measurements of Carbon Monoxide (CO) levels in any environment or application, including ambient, appliance surroundings and furnace flues. The TIF8500A has an industry first, "Voice" feature which allows the unit to actually speak out the measured reading."
$175ea. or $300 for the pair
Call Charlie @(414)430-5964
@ May 9, 2012 1:42 PM in Another "What is this?".I had this in my house when I bought it. Evidently the roof leaked at one time and the water would run down the pipe into the "moisture dissipater"...aka a rag
@ April 3, 2012 8:37 AM in HTP dealer software fault history issueMake sure you have the newest version..revision1/release10 and also make sure you run as admin. otherwise you could run into issues
@ February 22, 2012 8:04 AM in Munchkin 140M Air SwitchDid you have a gas smell? Everything from the blower down to the combustion chamber is at a positive so you would only smell it while it's running. Glad I could help though!
@ February 20, 2012 1:29 PM in New Lochinvar Knight InstallationYou come on these forums with little information except that you want to preach how bad Lochinvar is. When asked for info or pictures you put it off and then go on your tangent again!? You're dealing with some of the most knowledgeable people in the states(excluding me) and it seems as though you really don't want an answer because you're afraid of the truth.
@ February 20, 2012 1:11 PM in New Lochinvar Knight InstallationI would like to see pictures of where the vents come outside. It also wouldn't hurt to get a closer shot of piping inside
@ February 20, 2012 1:08 PM in Fan over speed pl 199 boilerSounds about right...most likely a bad Blower motor, but kind of a crap shoot
@ February 20, 2012 12:59 PM in New Lochinvar Knight InstallationCan you get some better picture? One out of focus picture is not going to help resolve this. I would love to see a picture of the vent terminations on this job.
@ February 17, 2012 9:09 AM in Munchkin 140M Air SwitchThe pressure switch hose connects to a nipple at the base of the Blower motor. By base I mean where it would connect to the spacer block on the right side(if you're facing it). If you have replaced the blower it might not have the nipple.
@ February 8, 2012 5:14 PM in PowerMate Stair climber for sale$1800obo also found out we have the flat bar attachements for it
@ February 2, 2012 5:16 PM in PowerMate Stair climber for saleThis PowerMate M-1 was used less than a dozen times and has been just sitting at our shop for the last year. 1500# rating and is in very good..albeit dusty condition. $2000obo
@ January 6, 2012 5:29 PM in Munchkin 80 / SS-45 QuestionHe is referring to the supply from the boiler. Most likely when the unit fires up for domestic it is not flowing whether it be from a bad/plugged pump or obstruction in the boiler/piping. If you reset the unit and watch it you will probably notice the display temperature rise up significantly fast and then jump out on high limit. It will also sound like your boiler is making popcorn inside. If this is the case I would recommend calling a contractor in.
There is also the small possibility that this could be a thermistor error. You will find an Ohm chart in your manual by the fault codes to check that direction.
@ December 29, 2011 12:30 PM in Superstor with carcked shellIf I remember right the "hole" problem...pun intended was from when the press they used to cut the holes out got dull. It would not make a clean cut and would split from the expansion of the tank. It's just cosmetic and does not pose a danger to anything.
@ December 20, 2011 4:16 PM in Peerless PI-80, F14 FaultJust noticed they used a concentric kit on it. I'm not a fan as these things can recirc badly on low fire. Might not be an issue, but have you contractor put his analyzer in the intake when its on low fire and see if he is getting any CO. Might have to extend the exhaust out a bit.