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Larry (from OSHA)

Larry (from OSHA)

Joined on November 24, 2003

Last Post on January 6, 2014

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Would there be

@ November 15, 2003 1:19 AM in indirect DHW

a measurable performance difference using 1" copper to run from the boiler to the dhw tank as opposed to 3/4". The hx is 3/4" as are the connections. The tank will be placed right next to the boiler. The tank to be used is the Bradford White PowerCor. Any thoughts are most welcome. Thanks Larry

Now that I've got outdoor reset,

@ November 7, 2003 9:28 PM in flue gas condensation

I'd like to figure out how to proceed. I do not think that I can take full advantage of my outdoor reset control without considerable piping changes to my fairly simple system. I've got a weil mclain induced draft boiler (HE Series 2). 3 zones with zone valves. 1 taco 007 on the return side. No bypass. A basic on demand system. The reset control is the honeywell aq475a controller which appears to have a tekmar chip on it. Here is the issue: the controller won't go into reset mode unless boiler min. temp is set to off. The boiler needs 140 min supply temp per weil mclain. If I set it to a min boiler temp of 140 or so and a max of 180 or so I now have an aquatrol with a 40 degree differential as it goes to the high limit and coasts back to the min temp. If I set it to boiler low limit off, it works as an outdoor reset would be expected to, with lower max temps and coasting down to about 100 or less. My concern is that flue gas condensation will cause problems for the system. Does the induced draft help me in any way or am I still in a precarious situation? Stack temps are about 300+. I am assuming that since the cast sections are below 130 for some period of time, I'll get condensation and corrosion. This is nat gas by the way. My heating contractor will be installing an indirect fired dhw tank in a couple of weeks so he will be adding a zone for it and if there was ever a time to make changes, this is it. Also, the controller has a "feature" of running the circ for about 10 seconds after the call for heat is over to purge the boiler of some heat. Is dead heading the pump for 10 seconds ok or a problem? Your input is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help, Larry in fairly frigid Minnesota

dilution and ventilation

@ October 24, 2003 8:38 PM in Carbon Monoxide

the more air you move through the space, the less concentration you will have. the object is to not be generating any. if you have levels above nothing, you need to have a professional heating person look at your system right away. DO NOT MESS WITH THIS. Every year we read in the paper about deaths or severe illness from CO poisoning. Good luck Larry

things that go bump in the night

@ October 24, 2003 8:30 PM in Propert Boiler Pressure

to start with, i'm not a wet heat professional. as a home onwner i've had the opportunity to learn a lot from making my own mistakes and from advice from people who do this stuff for a living. it sounds like you have air in your system and you may have some pipes moving from expansion. these things can make some creepy sounds. i had the same experience 12 years ago when we moved into our current home with fin tube baseboards. that said, my own personal opinion is that you find a heating professional who knows systems like the one that you have. pay a few bucks, pick his brain, and live happily ever after. Good luck, Larry

bad air

@ October 24, 2003 8:02 PM in Carbon Monoxide

carbon monoxide has approximately the same weight as the rest of the air around us. The molecular weight may be a little bit different, but not enough to split hairs about. The points to consider are that the allowable maximums are as follows: the 8 hour time weighted average maximum exposure is 35 ppm. The 5 minute maximum is 200 ppm. NIOSH studies have shown that ill effects can be observed at exposures of 75 ppm. or above. The bottom line is that CO is nothing to mess with. As all of you good folks know, proper combustion system tuning is critical for not only energy efficiency, but for life safety as well. I don't mean to drone on but, these safety issues are near and dear to me. All the best as we enter this heating season, Larry

are you digging deep?

@ October 21, 2003 10:22 PM in cutting clay pipe

By any chance, are you opening a trench 5 or more feet deep? If so, please make sure you slope it correctly for the type of soil or provide some shoring to prevent a collapse. Work safely and make sure you and your co-workers go home to your families every night. I've seen the results of not doing it right, and it isn't pretty. Good luck Larry

are you digging deep?

@ October 21, 2003 10:21 PM in cutting clay pipe

By any chance, are you opening a trench 5 or more feet deep? If so, please make sure you slope it correctly for the type of soil or provide some shoring to prevent a collapse. Work safely and make sure you and your co-workers go home to your families every night. I've seen the results of not doing it right, and it isn't pretty. Good luck Larry

The Vikings will

@ October 21, 2003 1:13 AM in outdoor reset...again

most likely choke in January or so, as they always do. As for the house, the insulation has been bumped up to about R44 in the attic and the windows are not bad nor great, but are not a candidate for replacement. As for manually setting the high limit, I am adding an indirect dhw unit and want the control to do both priority and bump up the temp to the high limit with a call from the hot water heater. The Honeywell AQ475A is what I'm considering do to price and features. The Tekmar is way to spendy for my tastes, but it does have lots of features. As for the Vikes, I don't think I know anyone who would have thought they would be where they are. Hope the Pack comes back. Take care and thanks, Larry

I've been convinced

@ October 20, 2003 9:22 PM in outdoor reset...again

by all of you that responded to my last thread about reset for residential use that there are few things in life better than outdoor reset. That said, now that I'm going to add it to my boiler, I would appreciate some more input. I've got a Weil McLain HE series 2 boiler. It has an induced draft. I'm concerned about condensation from too low of a return temp. It has 3 zones on demand with 1 taco 007 circulator. Delta T of about 20 degrees. Currently, there is no bypass to mix supply with return. This system has run just fine for the last 20 years, by the way. The design temp is about 190 as I'm in Minnesota. So, questions of the day: do I need to add a bypass loop for protection for condensation or boiler shock. If I run the low temp down to about 140 on the supply side am I looking for trouble? And most importantly, what am I missing??? As before, I am greatful for any input you can provide. P.S. My day job is involved with safety issues (OSHA stuff) If I can answer ANYTHING safety related, please just ask. Thanks Larry


@ October 20, 2003 3:06 PM in 4\" vent question

Jim, Yes, all elbows count. Check out this link and scroll about half way down: And yes, some 6" will be better than none as it is easier to shove air through a larger duct than a smaller one. Larry

dryer vent

@ October 19, 2003 5:24 PM in 4\" vent question

Jim, If you have more than 2 90* elbows, you start to lose a great deal of flow rate. Something like 25% or 50% for each 90 (if memory serves me). For long runs consider going to 6" duct. Costs more, but you end up with dry clothes. Good luck Larry


@ October 14, 2003 10:36 PM in is boiler outdoor reset control worthwhile for residential

i did notice all in agreement. is this an east coast thing or what? i've heard that the good ideas start on the coasts and work their way into the midwest. thanks again to all for the perspectives. larry


@ October 14, 2003 10:31 PM in is boiler outdoor reset control worthwhile for residential

for all the info. this boiler has an induced draft and the stack temp runs about 345f. about a foot from the boiler exit after running up to temp. (140-180). do i need to be concerned about flue gas condensation with this type of system? also, there seems to be no shortage of opinions about air eliminators. my boiler supposedly has some sort of air eliminator in the casting on the leg to the expansion tank (large in the rafters type-no bladder) as opposed to a spirovent on the supply. since i'll be adding a zone and associated piping, it's really no big deal to add an air eliminator at the same time. make sense or a waste of time and money? Larry

reset control

@ October 14, 2003 5:37 PM in is boiler outdoor reset control worthwhile for residential

First of all, thanks to Dan for providing the site and all who contribute to this forum. I live in Minnesota and have a 3000 sq. ft. home with fin tube baseboards built in '62. The boiler is a Weil McLain HE-5 Series 2 new in '84. The circulator is a Taco 007 and I'm running 3 zones with Honeywell zone valves. I am planning to replace my direct fired 40 gal. dhw heater with a Bradford White 65 gal. indirect unit. I've been looking at the Honeywell AQ475A aquatrol boiler reset controller as a way to get a little more efficiency and perhaps more comfort with the system. It appears that the price of natural gas is only going up. The local wet heat guys I've talked to say it isn't worth it for an on demand system like mine. If anyone cares to offer their perspective, I'd surely appreciate it.
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