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Joe V

Joe V

Joined on July 1, 2009

Last Post on July 11, 2014

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@ July 11, 2014 3:15 PM in Did my plumber "F" up my system?

Can you upload a photo? 

You will find this link very helpful

@ June 16, 2014 2:27 PM in Calculate btus for OIl and Gas steam

read throughit.  your answer is around the second or third page.

20 is fine

@ May 22, 2014 9:26 AM in Commercial Steam Boiler Pressure Settings

Hi Pressure limit should be  plus 20-pending pressure limit of boiler and relief valves/ diferential minus 20.
During a cold winter, if cut in is fifty by the time the burner goes thru its purge cycle/pilot/main flame established routine, pressure could drop much lower.
If they have more than one boiler and/or they operate at 100 psi, they should have a sequencer that will regulate pressure set point at a hundred PSI by modulating burner.  Usining pressuretrols is inefficient.

if it is pipe dope

@ May 13, 2014 6:21 PM in Eliminating pipe dope smell

you are smelling, it will cook off. If it is a new radiator, or new piping, and if (lot of if's, sorry) it is a one pipe with vent, you may be smelling the oils from pipes or radiator venting out. into room This happened to me. I installed 2 nbr 2 gorton vents at the end of main and something smaller to vent radiator.. then flushed boiler realy good. That did the trick for me.


@ May 7, 2014 2:05 PM in Vapor system questions

I installed one on mine.  The bigger, the better to slow steam down and send out dry steam.  There are many photos on this board of nice looking headers. 


@ May 7, 2014 11:30 AM in Vapor system questions

I did mine.  Look at it sysematically.  Some of the biggest offenders that cause terrible heating are:
Improper near boiler piping
Bad or inadequate Main venting
Bad or missing steam traps at radiators
Over sized boilers.
Lack of pipe inulation.
Vapor steam heating should be supreme to other forms of heating, quiet, efficient, and very comfortable. 

The ASME Code says

@ April 17, 2014 8:00 AM in lowering steam pressure in a industrial building

...That the boiler feed water pump pressure must be 3% higher than the highest pressure releif valve setpoint plus any pressure drop between pump and boiler.  So, in my case, our relief valves pop at 150psi so:  150psi* 1.03 + 5psi= feed water pressure of 159.5psi. 
This prevents problems of returning to higher pressures and not being able to fill the boiler.

Interesting discussion

@ April 16, 2014 8:06 PM in lowering steam pressure in a industrial building

We used to operate at 130 psi but only out of ignorance. New building, engineers " told us to operate at 130 psi". I talked management into 90psi and that is were we run. we have around 30 AHU's, a two HEX HHW system and single HEX DHW system. The max normal steam pressure for these coils/HEX's is 15psi. I imagine when there is a power loss, of for any reason, all the control valves go wide open because of demand, there will be a slow return to normal at 12 psi. As for the feed water, Our dearator pumps have a return pipe with orifices' to the tank between the pump and supply line to boilers. I took out the Orifice and installed globe valves to regulate pressure to boilers. Was 225 psi; Is 155-160psi. Can drop to ten if I wanted to but Per an ASME code, the feed pump must be a percentage (3 or5) higher than the Boilers pressure relief valves. So, you are limited on pressure reduction, unless you replace your presure relief valves to a lower value

I put one one mine

@ April 16, 2014 6:49 PM in Should a backflow prevention device be installed to prevent water from the boiler from flowing into the cold water supply?

and I also installed them on my branches to hose spigots. Dont know if it is code or not.

My feeling is , that vertical pipe with water is a deadleg. Water in any deadleg becomes stagnant sitting there waiting for me to open a valve. Over time, microbes can grow and at night when the water in all the pipes is static, those microbes can float out of the dead leg and into my next glass of water. I am sometimes a victim of my own imagination, but I sleep well at night.

What a nuisance.

@ April 16, 2014 11:28 AM in Intermittent issue with Pressuretrol

I would try adjusting the main scale all the way up, down and back to where it was to see if you can drive out any slop in the pressuretrol. Then, just because it is easy to do, I would make sure the pig tail it is mounted on is clean all the way thru.  A clogged pig tail usually let's the boiler operate at higher than desired pressures but before I spent money, I would check it anyway.  It's free.   If that is no help, I would just replace the pressuretrol.

I agree

@ April 15, 2014 7:31 PM in vaporstat

sounds like either a failed vstat or they are wired in parallel, instead of in series.

knuckleheads v. competents

@ March 29, 2014 6:03 PM in Do you ever get sick of looking

the shear number of incompetents outnumber the competents. This is the crux of your problems ( opportunitities in my book).

As far as homeowners who come across as cheap, I offer this, the gospel according to The Lending Tree:

If the latest financial crisis thought me anything its most people are pretentious and foolish.

I present the millions who lost homes, cars, lifestyles, wives or husbands because of a glitch in the economy. You cant reach them! You are competing against idiots for idiots who are prospects..

Disclosure: I am a homeowner who wishes to help those who have gladly helped me.

be mindful

@ March 26, 2014 7:24 PM in Removing and loosening painted radiator condensate trap covers

of the likelihood of lead paint.

I dont blame them

@ March 26, 2014 6:41 PM in Do you ever get sick of looking

they probably paid a fortune for a poorly installed system, paid a fortune in fuel and were never comfortable. Then, a competent installer shows up and tells them they need to spend another fortune to make it right.

I feel for them. In most cases, they are low or fixed incomes. sometimes, they can afford it but cant justify it. once bitten twice shy

too much water?

@ March 18, 2014 5:46 PM in gas fired steam crown boiler

or too much fresh water from an auto water feeder? just curious. I would hire someone to do it. Simply for warranty issues and speed since it is still heating season.

Not good

@ March 14, 2014 11:37 AM in Sight glass "empties" when boiler is firing

Take a look at your boilers instalation manual.  You should be able to find online if you dont have it.

This article may shed light

@ March 13, 2014 8:08 PM in Boiler efficiency cycling vs continuous run

to the O.P.

signup online for plumbing and mechanical magizine and read this article.

Boiler Jacket Loss
The International Energy Conservation Code addresses the controversial subject.
By Ray Wohlfarth
March 15, 2013

in conclusion....

@ March 9, 2014 8:33 PM in question on dry returns

I never felt or detected a problem. I didnt even realize my end of mains were connected above the water line (but it was below the waterline of the original boiler).

So I fixed it. the difference is now both loops heat faster (5 min &10 min)- Twice as fast.

The vents dont huff & puff any more, they are silent. the water in sight guage went from a one inch bounce to a quarter inch bounce, and the pressure went from 9 oz to well, I dont know. the rads heated up at zero oz and I shut her down. it is 70 degrees outside after all!

thanks for all the help over the years. I believe I treaded my last pipe on this system!

Not good

@ March 6, 2014 9:59 PM in Need Help - New Gas Boiler for Steam System Problems

Looks like your sight glass and safeties are against a wall too. This creates the potential of out of sight , out of mind with devices that should be always on your mind. This may also. be a code violation.

When you take new photos stand way back so we can see the whole arrangement. Include one with the gas line too.

Thanks Jamie

@ March 5, 2014 12:17 PM in question on dry returns

And sorry about the confusion in original post.  This is not the first time I did this.
The dry returns are vented. 
 I meant to say the end of mains and, if successful, attached a sketch of what I have.  One loop is approx 30% shorter than the other loop.  Hence, the half of the house served by the longer loop takes longer to vent.  What I was doing, after reading the many posts on venting, was timing how long it takes the steam to reach the end of mains without the vents installed.
Naturally, the short loop vented first so I replaced that vent.  Then waited for the other loop, but what I saw happening was the steam crossed over to the other main because it is above the waterline.  I reinstalled that vent and it too closed.  So, that means air is trapped in the larger loop.  So, I was seeking confirmation that the conection should be below the NWL before I repiped it.

I confused terminology -again

@ March 4, 2014 10:05 PM in question on dry returns

Sorry! it is a two pipe system. what I want to ask is, should the two end of mains join above or below the waterline?

What I am seeing is the short loop vents fast and closes its vent..

Then,because the two end of mains join above the water line, steam crosses over to the longer loop,heats that vent until it closes and air is trapped in the longer main.

I believe they should connect below the water line so they stay isolated. Am I right?

maybe I'm confused

@ March 4, 2014 8:34 PM in question on dry returns

my header splits into two loops along the outer perimeter of house, circle back to boiler and connect above the waterline, then drop below the waterline with a single pipe. their vents, vent until they get hot. The condensate has its own return. I think by connecting above the water line, the shorter loop vents first, then it's steam pushes into the other loops return. forcing that loops vent to close and trapping air between two heads of steam.
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