Heating Help

call someone

@ February 4, 2012 1:08 PM in Sparking or Crackling Noise When Furnace Ignites

it sounds like you meant a gas furnace since you mentioned an exhaust pipe. I would call a HVAC service company to come check it  out ASAP.  IMHO and others, Armstrong isn't a well made furnace and prone to cracked heat exchangers. If its over 10 yrs old I'd replace it with one of the big names, Rheem, Carrier, Trane or even a Lennox.

figure it out

@ February 3, 2012 9:27 PM in attaching pex to joist

I hope you done a manual J calc before starting the project. I think you're talking about doing a suspended tube install and heating the joist space. You will definitely need to insulate using at least R-11 and leaving an air gap. Also you need much higher temperatures and a ton of talons to prevent sagging. and it can get tricky if you need 3 tubes in a joist space to meet your heating requirements. I've done it years ago once when I worked for someone and I don't recall any complaints but it's something I wouldn't do now. Since it sounds like you've removed the subfloor,  why don't you think about using subfloor radiant panels, Roth, Warmboard, etc. Mucho better.

check

@ February 2, 2012 12:19 PM in Opinions on Trianco Heatmaker

The strap on Low Limit is probably bad or there is a short in the wires to it. It may also be wired wrong if you messed with it. The low limit senses the temp of the buffer tank which maintains a 140 temp to prioritize the DHW demand. Or it could be what Kcoop said, you can disconnect the red and white wire which leads to the zone valve end switches and see if that stops the boiler. That connection is on the right hand side junction box where the main power switch is.

nice of tech support

@ January 30, 2012 2:42 PM in Switching to gas heating - Navien - any input?

to talk to you because I bet your home insurance person won't talk to you if a problem arises with a non permitted installation or non licensed installation. 

Missed something

@ January 30, 2012 12:34 PM in Weil McLain GV-3 boiler issues..

Sounds like you need a new service guy instead of a parts changer because you didn't mention the a basic service like checking the burner cone. Remove it and flush it out with water and blow it out with compressed air before reinstalling with a new burner flange gasket. Also check the air inlet fitting, there is a screen and I've seen them clogged with Miller moths before. 

I would

@ January 21, 2012 1:42 PM in Heat problem: I am freezing

call the local heating contractor that does your annual servicing of the boiler to come look at it. It could be a lot of things and you're not going to have access to parts on the weekend like the contractor will. You could always turn off and on the main power switch to the boiler and see if that resets it.

fault codes

@ January 20, 2012 9:18 PM in peerless pinnacle

Are you getting any fault codes. Have you checked out the heat exchanger and burner? I believe the Peerless is a Munchkin in a green container so follow the Munchkin service procedures. If the heat exchanger hasn't been cleaned lately, it probably needs it and its a good time to check the burner. Here is a recent  thread about that: http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/139512/The-Munchkin-80m-walk-of-shame

well

@ January 19, 2012 7:06 PM in Does anyone

That would be about almost a 18 gal. tank uninsulated and involve piping changes.  Why don't you crank up the temp of the existing indirect and add a mixing valve to temper the out going water?

What for?

@ January 19, 2012 6:41 PM in Does anyone

What kind of application would this be? If for DHW, perhaps a flat plate heat exchanger would be the ticket.

yep

@ January 19, 2012 6:36 PM in Anode Rods

They are steel,  thus the anode rod. I've never installed their indirect but have replaced a few.

Nice!

@ January 19, 2012 1:00 PM in The FUN has begun...

Looks great! I couldn't see how you dealt with the condensate in the pics. Thanks for keeping fine craftsmanship alive and well!

gotta test 'em

@ January 19, 2012 12:12 AM in thermocouple guestion

You don't know if they're bad if you don't test them. You could have a weak pilot, bad gas control, bad fuse able link. 

no worries

@ January 18, 2012 6:14 PM in splicing pex tubing

As long as you used the manufacturers recommend fittings its no big deal. I wouldn't do an access door unless it was in a closet but if not, just make a map of where the splice is and leave it in the installation manual and paperwork. I've done it many times with no issues.

leak detection

@ January 18, 2012 3:00 PM in Radiant slab leak

Call these guys or another leak detection company if they're not in your area. http://www.americanleakdetection.com/plumbing-leak-specialists.php 

end switch

@ January 18, 2012 2:53 PM in end switch for zone valve v8043

Usually its the linkage that engages the end switch that wears out. In my 20+ years I only tried to replace one end switch and what a hassle that was only to discover the linkage was bad. If you have the old 4 screw zone valve, buy a complete new zone valve and replace the plunger plate with your new 2 screw zone valve plunger assembly and attach the new head to it. If you have the newer 2 screw style, just buy the replacement head.

I would

@ January 17, 2012 12:10 AM in Before I close up the walls, is my in-slab radiant useless?

before doing anything else, get a heat loss calculation done on the house. It kinda sounds like you're winging it by having a masonry guy lay down your tubing. Do you have a heating guy lined up that is familiar with a multi temp system? To me, fin tube baseboard and zone valves are so primitive with the comfort technology that is out there. If you're in Long Island area, there are really knowledgeable and great craftsman on this site and you can find them by clicking, 'Find a Contractor' at the top of this page. As far as the work already done, you may want to consider running some heat lines for supplemental heat if needed. Good luck!

I think

@ January 7, 2012 6:47 PM in Checking Glycol

the answer is most household freezers don''t go low enough to freeze at say, Denver's lowest expected minimum temperature.

What Al said

@ January 5, 2012 9:08 PM in The Munchkin 80m walk of shame.

is 100% correct on this because the burner is what carries the rectification signal to ground.  You will need the burner gasket when you do address this. The gasket part # is 7250P-070  Following what AL said, use a scotch brite pad to clean the threads and the bottom of the head of the screws and all mating surfaces of the burner.

had same issue

@ January 4, 2012 7:46 PM in Munchkin Leak

I had same deal except it was new boiler and I found upon commissioning it. Fortunately it was on an aluminum pedestal and I was able to cut a hole underneath to access. The trap assembly had been pulled to the left side to secure on the side of the case and the stainless barb cut into the rubber trap. Of course my supplier didn't have one in stock. Incidentally, that was my last Munchkin install. 

Can you access from under the unit? If not, I think I'd just remover the whole boiler to do it and make it accessible underneath for in the future

Slowly step

@ January 4, 2012 4:25 PM in Gate valves for natural gas?

away from the computer and go ask one of the workers while they're on break or leaving the jobsite.  I'm sure they'll tell you and the fresh air will do ya good.  ; )

time to shine

@ January 4, 2012 4:15 PM in How's this beauty?

You have the chance to be a super hero with this job. I'm pretty sure its a two pipe system looking at the boiler pic and I'm not sure what a R E Michel 2K324 is. It's ideal for use of a mod/con boiler utilizing outdoor reset combined with a Smart pump and TRV's on each radiator. IMHO, This kind of system is the closest you can get to a well designed radiant floor system and you have to sell the customer on that. It's not gonna be cheap so talk with the customer by educating them about the benefits of a system that can save them money and deliver comfort like they've never known before. A job like this takes a fair amount of design work so after the talk you'll know what direction they want to go. Good luck!

also

@ January 4, 2012 3:36 PM in Bad Thermostat Placement?

Maybe you could mount the thermostat on the other side of the wall if its a suitable location. That would be the easiest since the wire is already there.