Heating Help

LOL @ forced error

@ September 2, 2010 10:05 AM in Geothermal Buffer Tanks

I love it! I will borrow that one if I may.

re: Will this one work?

@ August 31, 2010 5:45 PM in Higher Efficiency Pumps & Motors?

Yes

exercise is good

@ August 31, 2010 11:04 AM in Grundfos isolation flanges

With this type of flange set, its always good to exercise (open and close) a few times when you're out doing your annual servicing. This will keep them loose so they won't freeze  in the open position.16

I wouldn't unless....

@ August 30, 2010 12:51 AM in ECR (Dunkirk) question,

You would have to change the differential pressure switch in addition to the orifice plate and air baffle.  I've seen the Q's over condensate if they're underfired, water will fill the pressure switch tubes.

It seems like you could, the heat exchanger and inducers are the same for all models but I'm with Al on this, if it's not in the installation manual or you can't get a letter from the manufacturer, I wouldn't do it. Too many lawyers out there.

How about selling them a buffer tank and add reset controls to the tank? That would be a good upgrade to the customer.

yes you can

@ August 27, 2010 11:56 AM in hot water improvement

I don't want to publicly tell you how to do it on this forum because I don't want any negative feedback on safety and using controls for what they're not intended for. Although I'd recommend using a dedicated storage tank there is a way to SAFELY use the water heater for what you want to do. You can email me for details. 

Gotta responde to this

@ August 25, 2010 1:57 AM in OK to remove dead auto damper from flue?

Tim and Al both made it seem like I gave bad advice on physically removing the vent damper. The OP said his contractor pulled the wiring and he didn't say anything about jumping the connector. It seemed like the OP had his mind made up that he was going to remove it and replace with vent pipe regardless so I gave advice.

I've been in the field many years running service and have removed many a molex connector to a faulty vent damper and jumped the connector to get customers heat in frigid conditions. I don't lose any sleep over doing this because the worse case scenario is if the jumper is removed or falls, out the boiler won't fire. Also I NEVER tell the customer that this is an accepted repair and only temporary, after all we're in this to make money and make people safe.  I am well aware of liability and always put in writing on the invoice that I've jumped the control and either the vent damper or the control must be replaced with the vent damper removed. Out of a dozen or so, I think I've had one customer follow up and done the recommended repairs.  In my jurisdiction there is no mechanism to force the customer to make a repair.  I would NEVER EVER jump a safety or limit switch and leave and return with the part later.

Maybe I should have asked the OP more details but from what I read, it seemed like harmless advice. He said he already had the contractor over several times so I assumed he did the right thing with the control. He probably gave a price to remove the damper and the OP declined thinking he could do it himself. After all, it's not brain surgery as Dave eloquently said.

Thanks for being concerned about safety with vent dampers, it is one of the things that can seriously danger lives.


 

Winnelson

@ August 24, 2010 12:35 PM in Splice or one piece? (PEX)

There's a Winnelson in Gillette. Have you checked there?

What Hr said and ....

@ August 21, 2010 8:02 PM in spirovent or other

In addition to what Hot rod said about the expansion tank on the inlet of the circulators (Pumping away) that is where you'd like to tie in the make up water as well. I would make a tee after the fill valve to both boilers so you always have 12 -15 psi at the PONPC. The air eliminator always works best on the outlet of the boiler where you see the hottest water where air comes out of solution. 

why not

@ August 17, 2010 7:21 PM in OK to remove dead auto damper from flue?

Its not harming anything still in place but if you do replace the single wall, use 26 gauge pipe, not the flimsy stuff you can buy at Home Cheapo. Use 3 zip screws equal distance around the pipe to secure and you're done. 

Fire the Gas CO.

@ August 17, 2010 11:43 AM in Boilers w/DHW capability

First off, I'd get rid of the service agreement with the gas company. My experience is their tech's are guys who can't make it in the real world of HVAC. No offense to the few good ones but they see a lot of different equipment and the EBP is probably too complicated for them to learn.

If they installed the boiler originally it probably never has had the combustion set up properly and that caused the heat X/C coil to clog. It's not that hard to clean and the instructions are pretty much laid out in the installation manual. It's also not hard to set up the combustion with the proper equipment and a command of the English language, it's all right there in the manual. They (gas co.) just want to sell you a boiler that doesn't take any brain power to service and repair if anything goes wrong.

I think its Joann from Laars that comments on the Wall from time to time, maybe she can recommend someone in your area to look at your EBP, are ya out there? Also try at the top of the page, "Find A Professional"