Heating Help

brings to mind

@ January 2, 2012 8:20 PM in Pressure seems high in the system, is it normal?

a quote made by my auto mechanic, "Just because its new, doesn't mean its good"

wrong stuff

@ December 31, 2011 2:45 AM in Is this vent CPVC?

Sounds like you got Cresline Flow Guard Gold which is smaller diameter than the gray CPVC. It's used for hot and cold water piping. I ordered CPVC from a supply house for will call and went to pick it up and thats what they had for me. I've learned since, you need to specify that you're using it for venting a boiler. 

need a pro

@ December 30, 2011 8:23 PM in MUNCHKIN BLOWER MOTOR, CAN IT BE REPAIRED IF IT STILL RUNS BUT NEEDS TO BE MANUALLY STARTED

There is no start capacitor for the combustion blower. It may be a control issue but probably not and the blower is on its last leg. You need to call someone who is qualified to work on a Munchkin because it does take a different skill set to work on. They can be tricky to replace if you don't know what you're doing. You need to pull the burner to make it easier to get to the screws. It will also be a good change to check out the heat exchanger to see if it needs cleaned and a combustion analysis should be done as part of the job.

Honeywell Glowfly

@ December 30, 2011 8:10 PM in Ducane furnace

You might try a universal Honeywell Glowfly. I'm not sure about that
Ducane furnace though, don't see a lot of 'em around here.  

reinstall old stat

@ December 30, 2011 8:03 PM in How do you handle this customer?

I've had the same issue with an older couple as well and replaced the digital stat I installed with a new Honeywell T87 mercury stat like they had. They didn't like the new fancy programmable stat and it was hard for them to read. I then re-calibrated it so that is was a couple degrees above what it read. If you don't have the calibration wrench you need to order one. I know it could be considered dishonest but it sure made them them happy.

draft hood???

@ December 28, 2011 12:33 AM in purging a system

While looking at the pics I noticed the condensation above the auto vent damper and something else didn't seem right. I think you're missing the draft hood. Usually if a boiler has an integral draft diverter build in to the boiler, it in the back so it can draw air. Hopefully you have a CO detector because this could be a dangerous situation. If you have the installation manual you can look and see if it requires a draft hood. If you don't have the manual you could post the model, model and serial number and someone could look it up for you. If indeed the draft hood is missing, you need to take quick action and get it resolved. From not being able to see the whole boiler in the pic, I may be missing something like a barometric damper control or power venter.

comes out easily?

@ December 23, 2011 10:14 PM in Methods for Heat Exchanger Cleaning?

I usually take out the target wall and its not easy to remove the retaining screw that holds it in place. 7 out of ten times it's in tight and I usually end up stripping the head of the screw. If there is a trick to removing it, please share.

Target wall

@ December 23, 2011 1:41 PM in Methods for Heat Exchanger Cleaning?

Just wondering if you guys are removing the target wall before cleaning? 

Rads not baseboard

@ December 20, 2011 2:51 PM in Baseboard, runtal, buderous??? Switching from forced hot air to hydronic!!!

Sounds like your plumber is old skool in recommending Slant Fin baseboard. I would forget about tubing on the first floor if you have enough wall space for the radiators. I'm doing a job now with beautiful wood baseboard and using Dianorm rads and they look great. The mounting brackets holds the rads about an inch from the wall so you don't have to butcher the wood baseboard. I would recommend TRV's like Paul said and running home runs to each rad. Sometimes you can use the existing ductwork to run your home runs through.  I also agree with Paul about boiler choice as well. If your plumber isn't up to date with the technology, you might wanna shop around or send him here. And oh yeah! Having a room by room heat loss calc done is very important to size the rads properly so your boiler is in the condensing mode for best efficiency.

bad tech

@ December 19, 2011 1:48 PM in Boiler replacement suggestions

Just because they have Laars on their website doesn't mean they know how to work on an Endurance boiler, Laars makes all kind of stuff.

It appears you either got a lazy tech or a bad tech. He didn't mention using a meter to check the flame rod, you can't tell anything by looking at it. You need to check microamps while it's operating. It's been awhile since I worked on an Endurance so I looked at the manual for a 2 fault code and didn't see one. If it was going off on high temp. he should have used his digital thermostat and strapped on a bead probe thermocouple to the pipe to note temps it's operating at. Do you have a installation manual for it and did he even look at it? I'm not afraid to ask a homeowner for the manual and if you don't have one I would get on the phone to Laars tech support to get info. Also doing a combustion analyzes would tell how it's running.

I'd call back the company and ask for your money back because he really didn't do anything. Like I said previously, ask if they have a tech that is very familiar with the Endurance or one that can read a manual and follow trouble shooing procedures. 

tips

@ December 18, 2011 11:55 AM in radiator valve

I wanna thank everyone for the tips, the socket on the inside of the tailpiece was key. 

last service call?

@ December 16, 2011 1:23 AM in Boiler replacement suggestions

Your last post,  you looked on the Laars website for a qualified service company and you said you got the name of a local company. So did you call them and what did the service guy say and do?

1156's

@ December 13, 2011 11:29 PM in Watts Fill Valve 1156, or SB1156

Usually the only time I see trouble with the Watt's 1156 is when the backflow preventer is downstream of the fill valve or there isn't a backflow preventer at all. With the backflow not isolating the fill valve and the boiler side from the open potable side, they will rust out internally and never send make up water to the system. I see it a lot out in the field. 

be sure to ask

@ December 13, 2011 10:14 AM in LAARS Endurance EBP 110 help!

1. Don't hesitate to ask if they have someone who is truly proficient with the EBP and knows how to check combustion gases. It could save you a lot of grief.
   

not your granddaddy's boiler

@ December 13, 2011 1:19 AM in LAARS Endurance EBP 110 help!

Even if you find someone you trust, they still might not have the experience on how these boilers operate. I would call Laars Canada and ask if they can recommend a qualified service company that can work on the EBP. Their number is 905.238.0100

I don't think you need parts. Sounds like the heat exchanger coil may need cleaned with the boom noise. If the vent isn't pitched downward toward the termination, condensate will drip into the coil and clog the coil. Also the combustion may have never been set up from the beginning. The service tech will need blank orifices, a drill index A - Z if nat. gas or 1-60 if LP, a combustion analyzer and a magnehelic to set it up. So, most service techs won't have the knowledge to do this that don't deal with the EBP's on a regular basis.

Good Luck

valvesI

@ December 10, 2011 12:58 PM in Fireplace insert

I think Jones-Stephens make them too but I'm familiar with the Dante. Here ya go, http://danteproducts.com/combo_packs.html

check piping

@ December 9, 2011 10:42 PM in Prestige Solo110 Parameters

It may not be a control issue. If its a new installation or one of the boilers was recently added, I'd check you piping first and make sure it's piped correctly. You may just need a strategically placed check valve somewhere. Do  have a piping schematic you could post

???

@ December 9, 2011 10:29 PM in Fireplace insert

Are you talking gas hogs, I mean logs?  I assume you are since you mentioned a damper clip. I've never installed a gas log but worked on many and there needed to be a shutoff within 4' of the fireplace. I've always seen the floor or wall Dante valves used and never anything inside of the firebox. You may need an inspection of the new gas line in your area too.

???

@ December 9, 2011 10:29 PM in Fireplace insert

Are you talking gas hogs, I mean logs?  I assume you are since you mentioned a damper clip. I've never installed a gas log but worked on many and there needed to be a shutoff within 4' of the fireplace. I've always seen the floor or wall Dante valves used and never anything inside of the firebox. You may need an inspection of the new gas line in your area too.

my method

@ December 8, 2011 12:52 PM in Flame Rollout Sensor at Burner Tray

I've used an air compressor and wire brushes both to clean copper fin heat exchangers and breathing the dust is not very good for you, even wearing a good dust mask. I pull the vent, burners and remover the diverter and top panel to access the heat exchanger. Then get a hose and rinse off the tubes being care not to get the refractory material wet, it doesn't take much water.  I use a rectangle cake pan underneath to catch most of the water along with rags. It gets it fairly clean and isn't nasty to breathe. You will need a tube of high temp mortar chalk to chalk the ends of the fins where the diverter rests, at least with theTeledyne minitherms. Then give the customer a price to provide some boiler protection.
Not a big fan of copper fin boilers for space heating BTW. People put them in because they're cheap and don't pipe them right or use any means of boiler protection.

aww shucks

@ December 5, 2011 1:10 PM in Radiant Floor Heat NO Flow

Well my answer came from experience because I did it early in my career when I hooked up tubes to a manifold. I'm still learning things and hanging out on the wall keeps that process ongoing.

thanks for tips

@ December 4, 2011 2:15 PM in radiator valve

I knew I could count on the wall. I've the the sawsall cutting on the inside of the pipe before but wanted to do that at the last resort. Now sure what 3 point the wrench means though.