Heating Help

I'd recommend

@ August 16, 2010 9:18 PM in Boilers w/DHW capability

Let me be the first to recommend the Prestige Excellence. While the W/Mclain is a good boiler, it is lower in efficiency that your Laars, 87% to 81%. I've installed several Excellence's with no problems and I think many on here will vouch for it as well. You could also use the same 5" hole of the Laars vent if it was sidewall vent ed and use the concentric vent the Prestige employs.

May I ask what kind of problems your EBP is having? The reason I'm asking is that someone has suggested the CGt which is what I'd call an Old School type of boiler.  The Laars technology is a bit more modern and requires a skill set and tools that an old school plumber may not have. The EBP had some early problems but I think they've been worked out and it is a fairly reliable unit. You may search around and/or give Laars a call to find a qualified service tech for your unit before spending money on a replacement.

I'd recommend....

@ August 16, 2010 9:05 PM in Boilers w/DHW capability

Let me be the first to recommend the Prestige Excellence. While the W/Mclain is a good boiler, it is lower in efficiency that your Laars, 87% to 81%. I've installed several Excellence's with no problems and I think many on here will vouch for it as well. You could also use the same 5" hole of the Laars vent if it was sidewall vent ed and use the concentric vent the Prestige employs.

May I ask what kind of problems your EBP is having? The reason I'm asking is that someone has suggested the CGt which is what I'd call an Old School type of boiler.  The Laars technology is a bit more modern and requires a skill set and tools that an old school plumber may not have. The EBP had some early problems but I think they've been worked out and it is a fairly reliable unit. You may search around and/or give Laars a call to find a qualified service tech for your unit before spending money on a replacement.

cleaning instructions

@ August 12, 2010 1:08 AM in Buderus Heat Exchanger

I'm not sure how to archive on here but I did a google search to find a previous thread. Here it is,  http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/127500/Buderus-H-X-cleaning, check out Radman's post. I've used a cheap paint brush to apply the oil with good results. Good Luck! 

yes to insulation first

@ August 9, 2010 2:57 PM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

As NTR Rob and others have said, insulate 1st. That would be the only way my heating suggestion would work.

to heck with zone valves

@ August 9, 2010 12:16 PM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

You have a perfect opportunity to use a condensing boiler if you're starting from scratch. Size the amount of baseboard to heat at your design temp using 140 degree water. It won't be that much more baseboard in your area. Also consider using TRV's with a remote stat in place of zone valve's and use continuous flow working off the outdoor reset. Throw in a differential pressure pump and you do away with bypass pressure valves and you have the ultimate heating system. 

Munchkin Contender

@ August 9, 2010 12:02 PM in HYDROTHERM MULTI-PULSE BOILER

The Munchkin Contender vents in 2" and goes up to 120k BTU's. Just make sure the pipe you're using for the exhaust is non foam core and you're good to go.

turbulence?

@ August 5, 2010 1:02 AM in Monoflo tees with Wirsboro Pex fittings

Not trying to bust your chops or nothin' but I don't see pex connections causing more turbulence that a copper joint. Especially since I bet 75% of copper joints have un reamed pipe involved. Never the less I've never since pex monoflo's, I don't see why you couldn't sweat in adapters on the run of the tee's either.
BTW, I do ream all of my copper pipe ends.

My take is....

@ July 29, 2010 7:27 PM in Gas Side Wall Power Venters

I would think a competent contractor would have checked out the chimney first to make sure a liner would work. You had several bids and surely someone would caught the possibility of a problem with and chimney and included a contingency. Do you have a fixed bid?

Is the boiler already installed and piped? If so, I would think it's the contractors responsibility to get a liner down the chimney somehow. It may take some work like cutting a hole in a wall to access and knock away some bricks. And yes a liner is required in an unlined chimney. Good luck.

No Sharkbites

@ July 28, 2010 8:21 PM in Pex & couplings?

Hopefully you've had the system designed with a heat loss on the house and know the required lengths you need. Adding more tubing to your rolls may cause problems with flow rates needed to heat the space. And no, use actual pex couplngs made for your pex tubing. 

Argo

@ July 21, 2010 5:53 PM in Argo Panel Trim

Used to do a lot of fin tube baseboard in the 80's and 90's and I thought Argo was the best board out there. The enclosure seemed to be a thicker gauge steel which was nice.

Baseboard just seems so pre-historic to me now with the European style radiant panels out here now.  When customers want to replace their baseboard. I give them options and they usually go with with the radiant panels after they find out the benefits, especially if they have a mod/con with ODR. 

They're not always practical because of cost and height limitations, BTU requirements, etc..  I just thought I'd throw that out there.

well pressure tanks

@ July 7, 2010 11:02 AM in pressure fluctuations & dripping backflow

Sure you can shut the feed off if you have a LWCO. Well pressure tanks need maintenance just like expansion tanks on heating systems. I would suspect there are water pressure problems on the house side when taking showers or flushing toilets. 

Would like to hear from the original poster if he solved the problem.

re read

@ July 5, 2010 10:44 PM in vision 1 and taco multiple pumps

I re read Sol's original post and it sounds like he's already married to the  SR501 and SR504. Here is the schematic to make that work : http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/100-9.0.pdf  You would need to buy an aquastat and do away with the Vision One indirect sensor. I believe the Vision One control will still work with all the rest of it's features utilizing a mechanical control for the indirect.

Alan is right, I think it would have been cheaper and less wiring to buy the SR 506 in the 1st place..But ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

ECM pumps

@ July 5, 2010 7:36 PM in vision 1 and taco multiple pumps

I think Sol's concern is the zone pumps running while the DHW is in priority. I think the only reason to not having the zone pumps run may be an electrical consumption issue, am I right Sol? If so; you should consider ECM pumps.

HTP may have a solution within their control package. If nothing else, install a flow switch on the DHW loop and power the 504 through the N.C. contact on the switch.

on a well, ahhh

@ July 1, 2010 7:44 PM in pressure fluctuations & dripping backflow

If it's on a well system the problem is more than likely you've lost the charge on the air side of your pressure tank. Easy enough fix, don't waste your money on another check valve.c
First, shut power off to well, remove lid of pressure switch. Note what pressure rating the switch is. Usually they are 20-40 psi, 30-50 or 40-60. Next, drain off water to pressure tank and then check pressure at schrader valve, I bet it's below the static pressure of your geo system. Next add air to the pressure tank to 2 - 4 psi below your cut in pressure, which is the lowest number. Also a  good idea to put the lid back on the pressure switch with the power off.  Turn water back on and it should stop dripping if the seat is clear. I've seen this often especially with 20=40 switches since it's close to hydronic operating pressures.

TerraLUX

@ July 1, 2010 11:48 AM in Best Flashlight ?

I have a TerraLux Lightstar220 and love it. They're kinda pricey ($44) but worth every penny. I have a battery charger and have fresh ones ready to go even though batteries last a long time with this flashlight.

I just checked amazon and they're on sale for $29.95, think I'll order another!

http://www.terraluxcorp.com/terralux/Products/Portable/Flashlights/tabid/63/Default.aspx

Find the problem?

@ June 28, 2010 1:54 PM in Triagel Tube Solo Boiler Problem

Just wondering if you found the problem?

No air

@ June 11, 2010 11:07 AM in Noisy Smart 50

There is an autovent on top of the tank so air shouldn't be a problem. I talked to my supplier about it and he said the tank is packed pretty tightly with foam and that may be it. The noise isn't as bad as the first day of operation and the customer said they could deal with it.

Noisy Smart 50

@ June 8, 2010 11:30 PM in Noisy Smart 50

I commissioned a Prestige Solo 110 with a Smart 50 indirect today and the indirect is making a lot of noise. It started as it was being heated from a cold tank and I just thought it was expansion. Ater the tank reached temp,  I ran a faucet to adjust the mixing valve it was still making noise, even while just sitting there doing nothing.It's kinda of a metalic noise that resonates.  It has a potable expansion tank so I'm not sure whats going on. Anyone else experience this?

2 words....

@ May 27, 2010 3:34 PM in How to stop squeeking

Constant flow

IBC boiler

@ May 13, 2010 11:39 AM in Mod-con venting beyond 100 feet?

I recall reading about the IBC boiler made in Canada being able to vent up to 240'.
From what I've read, it seems like an impressive boiler. Has anyone had any experience with these units?

sticking to what I said

@ May 13, 2010 10:55 AM in Munchkin spark electrode

I went to a class about 5 yrs ago on cleaning Munchies put on by the factory rep. They said use an old credit card for the condensate weep slots and it works just fine. Also, Rydlyme works so much better than CLR and all I've needed was a nylon vegetable brush along with the credit card. I've cleaned well over a hundred or so of  Giannon's that I've developed a French accent. 

one more thing

@ May 11, 2010 10:59 AM in Munchkin spark electrode

You shouldn't use a feeler gauge to clean between grooves of the exchanger. I  would use an old credit card or grocery store card, something that doesn't scratch the stainless.