Joined on August 13, 2009
Last Post on September 6, 2014
@ November 8, 2009 12:46 PM in Prestige Solo curiosity question,and try it with out the separator and let us know your results. I like to hear mechanics personal experiences as compared with bought and paid for mantras from manufacturers. The job I just finished on a 1914 gravity system(2 1/2 inch mains) single zone, converted to oil,forced in the mid 50s, the perfect example of using pump through on the Prestige. It took me a half hour to explain to the customer why he didnt need Hydraulic separation. He had heard about it from another contractor who bid the job and told him he should have it, obviously he loves big words but doesnt really understand when to use the device. Many of these devices today are not needed but because the manufacturer is paying for the information and the training and the advertising many mechanics just use them without ever using thier own brain. It reminds me of the Rid-x commercial for your septic tank, they advertise it in a way that makes people, unfamiliar with a septic tank think that they may have one and it needs to be maintained with rid-x, suttle advertising showing row homes with septic tanks in a cartoon like ad. This type of advertising works because many people that dont have septic tanks use rid-x. Plumbers see it all the time under the kitchen sink. I have ask a couple of customers why they use rid-x and they reply for my septic tank. It amazes them when I tell them they are sewer connected and dont have a septic tank.
@ November 7, 2009 10:33 PM in Prestige Solo curiosity question,Both replacements, both pump through. One on a old gravity system and the other on a 4 zone convection system. Both jobs I reused the existing expansion tanks in the joist. The only modification was that I changed the normally supplied 3/4x1/2x3/4 brass t with a straight 3/4 brass t so I can run 3/4 tube to the tank fitting and put the 1/2 air vent in stock. The radiator system cleans up instantly and the convection system after a good purge cleans up in an hour or so. I have to laugh when I see micro bubble separators on radiator systems.
@ November 5, 2009 5:52 PM in Legionnaires Disease and Hot Water Tank TempThe problem with that method is it only does the hot side. There are alot of systems with neutralizing tanks, contact tanks, filters, ect. that are siting in rooms at ideal breeding temps. It would seem to me that a better way would be to treat the problem as it entered the home, both hot and cold lines. I have installed many UV lights but am unfamiliar with this ultrasonic device. Do you have any info on it? Thanks
@ November 5, 2009 7:12 AM in BTU MeteringBut I remember last time we spoke about this subject,it was more complicated than what appears. When you start selling energy you become a utility, also your meters have to be checked by the states weights and measures division. The meters themselves are widely available and fairly easy to install. You may want to talk to a knowledgeable lawyer before attempting this. Your better off putting in individual boilers and letting the gas utility handle the meters.
@ November 4, 2009 9:36 PM in How to reset TT Prestige Solo to factory parameters?indicates your outdoor thermistor is not connected.
@ November 4, 2009 9:32 PM in Legionnaires Disease and Hot Water Tank Tempcopper is somewhat bacteriostatic like silver. Has there been any study done on plastic water pipe as compared copper?
@ November 4, 2009 5:35 PM in Legionnaires Disease and Hot Water Tank TempSo if 140 is whats needed to kill the Bacteria,what temperature was found to be the ideal breeding range. My well water is 57 incoming, at what point does the ideal environment start to reverse itself. Or does it just keep getting worse the hotter it gets until it reaches 140. Thanks for the info
@ November 4, 2009 6:58 AM in Legionnaires Disease and Hot Water Tank Tempconsidering the injection pump he is talking about is Grudfos, which is European. Do they use those units in Europe?
@ November 3, 2009 10:04 PM in Legionnaires Disease and Hot Water Tank Tempsince the contact time is 20 minutes would there be any sense to increasing outlet temp to 140?
@ November 3, 2009 9:43 PM in How to reset TT Prestige Solo to factory parameters?after looking at 4 under info(outdoor temp) got to number 6(calculated supply temp) if the actual supply temp is higher than the calculated temp, it is possible the boost function is on.
@ November 3, 2009 7:45 PM in Legionnaires Disease and Hot Water Tank Temp.they also have tanks in line. softners, neutralizers and filters. I cant agree with you that we need another law to force a couple hundred dollar increase in water heater installs.
@ November 1, 2009 4:46 PM in large ac for churchI installed a few Robur units and maintained quite a few of them for the local gas company. They have to be serviced every year by a QUALIFIED certified installer. They can be hard to find. But as your unit testified, life span always exceeded 30 years. Someone that visits this page just installed one of the new heat pump units and posted some pics a few months ago. I would go to Robur.com and see if you can get some ideas. They kinda faded away on residential installs because of the upfront price and because the gas companies now sell electric a/c (who would have thought that 20 years ago) but it could very well be just what your looking for.
@ October 22, 2009 8:52 PM in Reverse indirect with geo for DHW preheat?This will be my 2nd season on the system. Anytime you want to check it out, your more than welcome. Just email me
@ October 21, 2009 8:09 PM in Reverse indirect with geo for DHW preheat?I have a Climatemaster geothermal tied into my radiant heat system. I originally ordered it with the desuperheater but later decided to skip using it for cooling. Chilled water is a pain and I decided to install mini splits. The unit comes with a brass pump on a seperate circuit that would circulate into a tempering tank for the tankless water heater. It would just save the heat that normally would get put in the creek during cooling, it seems like a good idea. But like you my cooling load is nothing. My geo unit maxes out at 120 and thats not hot enough. Some of the newer units use a scroll compressor and can get 140, but at those temps the COP really drop off. I use it strictly for heating the radiant floor and use an outdoor reset to get the lowest possible water temp on that day. COPs drop significantly with increases in water temp so keep it as low as you can. I have been really impressed with it overalll. My heating bill is less than the cable bill.
@ October 20, 2009 6:45 PM in Steam system expertsRemove the concentric reducer on the T, make this simple fitting and reinstall. A/C installers make fittings like this all the time on systems that run at a little higher pressures.
@ October 19, 2009 7:31 PM in Is one Steam boiler better than the restThats because they use the same end castings on all of the boilers in that series.
@ October 18, 2009 3:02 PM in Steam system expertsYou just need a few tools. Use a copper sweat cap for the larger size and drill it off center the size of the pipe your reducing to so the bottoms of the pipe are equal height, then slide in a piece of copper tube and silver braze the joint with sil-phos. The joint will be stronger than the copper.
@ October 11, 2009 12:56 PM in tanklesswith gas. I agree with you on solar. I have 2-20 tube panels on a drainback for over a year now.I have to say I have been really impressed.
@ October 11, 2009 11:27 AM in Boiler or piping issueshis job specificly, It looks like an old gravity system that was either split or 3 additional zones were added, probably with baseboard or convection. On that job, sometimes not always, when there is a call for heat from any zone other than the old gravity zone, heat will migrate into the old piping because of its size and pitch. If the zone valves were on the supply it would prevent this.
@ October 11, 2009 10:48 AM in tanklessin my own home 1 year and 4 months ago. It has performed flawlessly. It operates at 98% efficiency, making just the amount of hot water you need at exactly the temperature you desire only at the time you want it, Go away for ten years and come home home......you didn't use one cent of gas. Maybe you could get the other 2 percent of heat if you really tried. Maybe you could use an atomic reactor and split the gas atoms to obtain more heat. As far as cleaning the units once a year if you have hard water...that's a plus, that you actually have the ability to do it. Tank type water heaters may not be susceptible to pressure drop in hard water conditions but you can bet their efficiency is just slowly dropping away with basically no way to clean them out. 2 inches of concrete on the bottom of a water heater does not improve efficiency. Check stack temperature on a tank type water heater after a couple years in hard water. I don't know about 40 or 50% percent savings, that's all a bunch a crap, totally dependent on how you make hot water now and how big your family is. But I do know there is no better way to make hot water.