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Joined on August 13, 2009

Last Post on March 15, 2014

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Easy to calculate

@ May 13, 2013 4:58 PM in Hot water recirculation do they save money?

the energy your consuming with a circulator.
Turn on your water heater until it goes off and dont use any hot water at this point.
Place a temperature probe against the side of the tank(inside of the insulation) and read temperature. Turn on your circulator and time out for 1 hour and record your temperature drop. Take your size of your tank in gallons x 8.3 will give you pounds of water x temp drop will give you BTUs lost per hour.
Now do it without the circulator to get a base mark to compare.
Once you have this info it is easy to compare it to the fuel your using.
Dont forget to also add the wattage of the pump to the cost.

Heres another

@ May 12, 2013 9:23 AM in Exporting natural gas looks like a Bad Idea

This will be an interesting next decade.


@ May 10, 2013 11:13 PM in Polypropylene vents becoming the way to go

I don't know how long you have been doing this but I piped in my first Hydropulse when I was 20. I'm 51 now and have lived through a lot of the APPROVED CRAP the industry has laid on us.
I still have the install manual from the first Weil HE boilers that instructed you to silicone the seam in the galv pipe.
I installed hundreds of feet of approved Ultravent and Plexvent and then removed it under the careful eye of manufacturers trying to dictate my hourly fee.
In that time I have installed countless warm air furnaces over 90%, cleaned and inspected them and ultimately removed them over their lifetime.
I just don't see it!
You say....being told....... by Who. The same people that approved all this other crap.
Lets get real. If they really want to make these gas systems safer they could start by outlawing the CSST tubing. That has smoked more homes and lives than PVC Venting ever did. I used it but when the facts were presented to me  I changed back to steel pipe. Do you still use CSST?


@ May 5, 2013 10:51 PM in Condensate

it will.

Condensate PH

@ May 5, 2013 10:52 AM in Condensate

The acid in condensate is from co2. If you let it sit it will remove itself just like a can of soda goes flat so does condensate, the warmer the faster. This is why a well with acid water will always eat out the cold copper, the water heater will usually cook the co2 out . I have a Navien tankless in my house that I still haven't hooked up to a pump. So I always have a five gallon bucket of condensate to test. I have a solar prefeed so it hasn't really been a big hassle. LOL
Because the code requires a neutralizer I will usually tie in a tub drum trap with the plug up and a 2 foot standpipe and fill it 1/2 way with calcite.They hold enough calcite for several years and work fine.
Some jobs I have to dump outside, I remove the duckbill check from my condensate pipe and use it as a drain back system, it works well just don't dump it on a sidewalk.
I believe it is going to be a short time till the sewer administration realizes there are millions of gallons of unmetered condensate going down the sewer. Being the money hungry fools they are and to pay for pensions for people who haven't worked in 40 years, they will find a way to tax condensing furnaces and boilers. Then getting rid of condensate onsite will make alot more sense.

You may want to reconsider those toilets

@ May 4, 2013 7:01 PM in Lesson learned NEVER let the wife tag along to the home show

The high toilets just compound this problem. Google this topic and you will see

I learned that along time ago

@ May 3, 2013 10:28 AM in Lesson learned NEVER let the wife tag along to the home show

I only take her to bike shows. That way the only thing for her to buy is bike parts and bikes.... and I have no problem with that.LOL

If anyone deserves it

@ May 2, 2013 4:41 PM in Mark Eatherton to lead RPA

You do Mark. Congratulations! 

Your body radiates heat

@ May 1, 2013 10:58 PM in Lay out

to cold surfaces. The window having the lowest r value will be the coldest surface in the room. If you dont install the radiators under the windows to provide a warm air curtain, you will  be more likely to feel the effects of cold 70.
Remember, the more radiation you add, the lower the temperature water you can use but you must add it equally in each room.

I dont know exactly who

@ May 1, 2013 10:19 AM in Taking out a 3 yr old Navian..

the Europeans are, Germans , French, Greeks, Italians. But I do know that if we are talking about Germans, they still use a significant amount of Buderus cast iron boilers.

Lets not forget

@ April 30, 2013 9:01 PM in Taking out a 3 yr old Navian..

We also have condensing furnaces, lots of em. All vented with PVC and I see alot of them go over 25 years. You can easily measure the Chlorides in water. I am sure the condensate coming back in PVC pipe is well below what would be considered damaging to stainless steel.


@ April 30, 2013 8:39 AM in Taking out a 3 yr old Navian..

What are the water specs? PH /hardness /chlorides?

I feel his pain HR

@ April 27, 2013 9:46 PM in brass nipple

its like those eccentric union halves on back mount commercial sink faucets. I always stop at tractor supply and grab a bag of 7/8 flat washers to shim the flange 90 behind the sink.. What a pain in the a&%. I also love to see bar faucets with a male shank threaded into a flange 90. By all accounts it should leak like a sieve because the shank is a straight thread, not a pipe thread. Now if I would do it ,it would leak but  somehow hacks make it work, it is beyond me. LOL 

Dont jury rig it

@ April 27, 2013 7:34 PM in brass nipple

If you dont have a nipple adapter for your machine, take your 1 1/2 and 2 inch nipples and run them into your solid die head using an internal pipe wrench, cut the threads deep about a 1/8 inch on both sides and youll be fine.
Trying to use a face joint on urinal adapters will just leave you with a hard time if it snaps while trying to tighten it. It appears your situation you have no way to back up. Two hex heads on the adapters will take up more room than the oversize nipple.


@ April 26, 2013 7:01 PM in brass nipple

couldn't you make one?
You need a nipple adp. If you dont have one.. get one. At the price of nipples today its a short payoff.

I was disappointed also

@ April 25, 2013 10:36 PM in navien and odr?

I did not realize this fact until after the install. Hopefully they correct this in the next version coming soon.

I am going to email John Seigenthaler

@ April 21, 2013 1:05 PM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zones

and see if he would put an end to this nonsense.


@ April 21, 2013 1:02 PM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zones

Chris is dead wrong!

There is no leftover GPM

@ April 20, 2013 1:20 PM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zones

I have throttled my flow rate down to obtain my 160 return through the board!
Now if we both have a return coming back at 160...ahhh forget it, I have to go weed wack my driveway!

Sorry, not a flow valve a balancing valve!

@ April 20, 2013 12:33 PM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zones

I meant a balancing valve.

What Boiler???

@ April 20, 2013 12:28 PM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zones

Your missing the point. This was a hypothetical question using real easy numbers, it wasnt about any boiler just temps needed to serve a space.
But I know what your going to say and I dont agree with that.
Lets say I actually was talking about putting a 110 prestige on that 4 feet of board(Which I wasnt) Our ultimate goal is to have the boiler fire at a rate equivalent to what the house is losing, So how is pri sec going to change that? If the boiler cant modulate low enough for the demand it is going to short cycle just as rapidly on pri-sec that it does straight the second.
This is why the tt110 has selective blocking times and a larger...3-1/2 gallon exchanger

I used a flow valve to regulate

@ April 20, 2013 12:16 PM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zones

my gpm. Thats how you adjust flow through different circuits. Forget about short cycling the boiler, we will pretend we have a mini modular that fits inside our mini house that modulates to 0.
The point is Chris, in order to heat this house we must deliver a certain temp water in order for the radiation to do its job. Therefore no mater what boiler or piping strategy we use, the return water temp from our radiation will be the same, in this case 160.
Now if we take that 160 at .20 gpm and just add enough btus to bring it back up to 180 or we could do it like you say, take our 160 return and pull .10gpm through the boiler and heat it to 200 and let the other .10 gpm go through the t's and mix them downstream to regain our 180, which one is more efficient?
Your boiler is operating at 200 and mine is 180, you have two pumps and I have one.
Also, as our outside temp goes up and we get closer to our condensing temps on the boiler. We both will be pulling the same temp return water in, but I will be pulling in twice as much causing my boiler to condense more...making it even more efficient.
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