Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
Joined on August 14, 2009
Last Post on April 23, 2014
@ January 21, 2014 10:57 AM in Hate these thingsI can't tell if it's a W-R or not, but I have a copy of the installation instructions and wiring diagram of the Type 1311 zone valve. If you want a copy, send me your email address.
Edit: It turns out to be available online here:
@ January 20, 2014 4:24 PM in Boiler Correct SizeI think most of the professionals on The Wall agree that you don't add anything to the boiler sizing for an indirect. I don't.
@ January 17, 2014 11:52 AM in Polaris water heateryou cannot touch the black igniter material. Doing so will leave a deposit of schmutz on the surface leading to igniter failure.
Did you touch the igniter surface?
@ January 17, 2014 12:27 AM in How many BTU old radiator puts outthe same output as many of the other 5-tube radiators - 48 square feet EDR x 170 BTU per square foor = 8,160 BTU's.
@ January 16, 2014 11:50 AM in ManometersThanks, Mikey and others. That's exactly what I wanted.
@ January 15, 2014 11:30 AM in ManometersI have a bunch of manometers but have somehow lost the connectors to the gas valve and don't remember what they look like. Are these connectors available by themselves?
@ January 9, 2014 9:39 PM in Eternal on-demand water heaterInstalled an Eternal GU 145S in 2011 and now has an error message: "E27" - mixing valve issue. Tech support says the mixing valve has gunked up and needs to be replaced. Has anyone else had problems with these?
@ January 9, 2014 12:33 PM in How do i get this downI don't want anyone to get hurt, especially on my crew. I hire a moving company for anything that scares me. They move heavy things every day and know how to do it.
@ January 9, 2014 1:03 AM in Viessmann Vitodens 200 or Triangle tube prestige soloI'd consider the TT Excellence combi boiler for heating and DHW and make sure it's installed with primary-secondary piping (compensating for over-sizing). It's over-sized for your heating load, but just right for DWH as long as you are happy with only two or three fixtures being used at the same time, no more.
You seem to be in a load-boiler continuum (similar to a space-time continuum) that makes choices difficult. I live in Berkeley, CA; half your heating load, 1 bathroom with a Viessmann 50 gallon indirect, a 50K BTU Munchkin and three people in the house. We all get along really well. With double the heating load and another bathroom, either the Excellence or the Solo 110 with indirect seems a marriage made in hydronic heaven.
How many people in your house?
@ January 8, 2014 10:14 PM in Viessmann Vitodens 200 or Triangle tube prestige solozones do you have in the house? Or will you have when the staple-up gets installed. If multiple zoning, I like the Viessmann for many reasons: modulation (6.5 to 1) and reliability being the most predominant.
The only time it really gets cold in Seattle is when the Seahwaks loose which is not that often. Good luck in the playoffs................ except when they play SF.
@ January 7, 2014 11:41 PM in Honeywell Zone Valve failure. Hydronic oil fired boilersorry about the date code.
Sounds as though you are right on track to replace the operator.
I'd be interested to find out if anyone has had problems with the valve.
@ January 7, 2014 7:05 PM in Honeywell Zone Valve failure. Hydronic oil fired boilerYou should check the date code on the round motor of the operator to see for certain if they replaced the valves. I've seen it happen to leave the old cover on the new valve so they don't have to re-write the information. The last two numbers will be the year manufactured.
I've replaced many operators over the years (two just today), but I've never had to replace the entire valve. They are extremely reliable.
By the way, they sell just the operator by itself: Honeywell 40003916-026 (wire leads) and also the motor by itself: Honeywell 802360JA.
@ January 7, 2014 12:12 PM in Life Expectancy of VDTit might be one year, it might be 10 years. Especially with the variable speed, delta T pumps; they haven't been around that long.
If it were my system and I lived in a cold climate, I'd install one in series with the one you have along with isolation valves so that it is ready to go when the other pump fails. Or have both pumps on-line with a lead-lag control that switches duty between the two, switching every day or so. They would both get equal use and the likelihood of both of them failing at the same time is slim.
@ January 4, 2014 5:21 PM in stick with recessed cast iron or tear out and go radiant?Somebody else will have to answer your technology questions, but what kind of floors and subfloors do you have? Hardwood over Doug Fir? Tile over plywood? Carpet over plywood?
@ January 2, 2014 8:00 PM in Low heat from hydronic baseboard radiatorsYes, those tees are way too close together.
I'd install a 1-1/4" full-port ball valve between the tees and throttle flow down until your convector starts to heat.
How many more do you have like this?
@ January 2, 2014 1:24 PM in Low heat from hydronic baseboard radiatorsThanks for hanging in there. Those pictures will help us see what's going on. Take as many as you can, but specifically, we need to see the tees which feed the radiators, both on the supply and the return.
It sounds as though you have Mono-flow tees on the supply and return - that's good. It also seems as though you have good distance between the tees which is good as well since this will encourage water to be diverted down through the radiators.
At this point, we want to make sure the Mono-flow tees were installed properly.
@ December 30, 2013 5:55 PM in Warmboad Vs ThermalboardWarmboard is best for extracting heat and Thermalboard is not far behind. Engineering tables should be available for both somewhere in their literature.
Noise reduction is accomplished by using the tubing with the quietest oxygen barrier. I seem to remember always using Uponor tubing.
@ December 30, 2013 5:05 PM in Low heat from hydronic baseboard radiatorsI don't think a larger circulator will work. You will end up with a higher electricity bill, more noise from the water going at highway speeds and convectors that won't heat. Adding circulators on the branch piping will work, but where will you install them. You will have to open up the walls and install access panels for each pump and then run power to each pump, no?
So, you installed this system 13 years ago and it hasn't worked since or is this something new?
@ December 27, 2013 7:41 PM in Condensate Hot-Water Heating FAQSpring or swing check valves will work as will flow control valves like this one:
@ December 26, 2013 9:59 PM in Bleeder valves stolen!! Grr...we need to know if you have a hot water or a steam system.Some pictures of the boiler and near-boiler piping would help.
@ December 26, 2013 12:02 PM in Low heat from hydronic baseboard radiatorsSystem design is crucial on a Mono-flow loop. Your ceiling loop has no problem with the upstairs convectors, but the hot water is buoyant and doesn't want to feed the lower floor convectors.
@ December 24, 2013 11:36 AM in Lost WiresI was able to use the end switch wire for the thermostat since there is a pressure differential bypass at the boiler, but the Fluke is on order. It seems a necessary item for my hydronics toolbox.