Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
Joined on August 14, 2009
Last Post on April 10, 2014
@ March 8, 2010 11:15 AM in flooded radiatorsOne-pipe steam is meant to work at very low pressures; that is why the pipes are so large. Many of your Mother's problem will go away once the pressure is set properly.
Pressuretrol should operate between .5 and 1.5.
Vaporstat should operate between 4 oz.and 10 oz.
@ March 5, 2010 4:16 PM in Water Heater for Slab HeatIf you have a water heater dedicated to the radiant slab, i.e. no DHW, then you don't need a HX.
@ March 5, 2010 3:42 PM in I need a computer program for PEX tubing layoutsis an excellent product. When you load the program, it will ask you if you want to check for new versions. The upgrades are free and I look forward to downloading the new one on Monday.
@ March 4, 2010 9:18 PM in Just curious about atmospherics,,,,the requirements rearding low-nox boilers?
@ March 4, 2010 7:32 PM in Can you recomend a simple, reliable boiler?Maybe most ModCons, but the Prestige is very simple, straightforward, easy to set up and very reliable. It's perfect for radiant because it loves low return water temperatures. If you go with an atmospheric boiler, you've got to make sure it DOES NOT condense.
If push comes to shove, I like the Viessmann ECDS atmospheric boiler. If you wire the primary pump through the boiler, the boiler will turn off the pump below 130° (I believe) for boiler protection.
@ March 4, 2010 3:31 PM in Can you recomend a simple, reliable boiler?Prestige Solo 110 made by Triangle Tube
and if you want to get rid of the indirect tank, the Prestige Excellence will provide a limited amount of DHW. It has a 19 gallon DHW tank that has a decent recovery rate. It's the only combi boiler that I recommend.
@ March 4, 2010 1:00 PM in You Go Girlthey catch on. Most people hate sitting on public toilets.
I like the car.
@ March 3, 2010 1:09 PM in ThermsAround here (SF Bay Area) the heat loss for a tight house is around 17 BTU/sq. ft. So:
1,200 sq. ft. x 17 BTU/sq. ft. = 20,400 BTU/hr.
1 Therm = 100,000 BTU
20,400 BTU divided by 100,000 BTU = .20 Therms per hour
Of course, this is an approximation and the 17 BTU/sq.ft. heat loss is typical for a house being heated to 68°; at 55°, you will use much less fuel. For a more accurate calculation, you will need a heat loss survey for your particular house at design conditions.
@ March 2, 2010 11:16 AM in Reversing the flow of an old loop systemI remember Dan mentioning a German radiator installation. It was in a commercial building and for some reason, they circulated the water one direction for a few hours and then the other direction for a few hours to even out the heat.
@ March 1, 2010 7:06 PM in Tsunami Watch - OTAfter hearing about the Chilean earthquake, a few of my friends and I went out just beyond the Golden Gate to try to get a peak at the tsunami that was supposed to come in. Scheduled to hit at 1:26 pm, nothing came in and we had to settle for a beautiful day at the coast.
@ February 25, 2010 12:17 PM in Gravity System: Appreciate AdviceThe easy part is that your main header will be 2½" for a 20° delta T. As for sizing the separate zones, you will need to have some idea of the BTU's of the connected load.
You have 3 branch mains. One zone will supply one branch and the other zone will supply the other two branches. All the returns will combine. Is it that easy?
@ February 21, 2010 4:11 PM in Improper pipingWhoever installed that boiler disregarded the instructions. Very few things were done correctly.
To answer your questions, it may not necessarily shorten the life of the boiler, but it won't be the quality system it could have been. Costly? Yes. You almost have to start over again.
@ February 10, 2010 12:38 PM in Would Love to See Thisprice it around $2,800. Ooops, we're not supposed to talk money here.
@ February 8, 2010 5:11 PM in System leaking but no signs of water.Have you checked the relief valve drain? If the expansion tank is compromised, you will get the symptom of loosing water during operation.
@ February 8, 2010 1:19 PM in 150 controller and short cyclingPost your question in the "Strictly Steam" forum. You may get more replies if you re-word your query to be less confrontational, i.e. leave out the oil company.
@ February 5, 2010 12:26 AM in Can Old & New Hot Water Systems Be Combined?keep us informed and take lots of pictures.
All the best,
@ February 5, 2010 12:22 AM in TT Solo Prestige vs. power outageEven out here, when the power goes out, you've got no heat unless you have a generator.
@ February 1, 2010 11:24 AM in Radiator bleeder valve port(s)Your idea is very novel, but I know of nothing like that on the market.
You will have to deal with the existing tapping or make a new one. Yes, heating the surface will help.
And make sure the radiator is made to work with hot water. The sections should have waterway connections at the top and bottom. If only at the bottom, you will have to install air bleeders on each section.
@ January 31, 2010 4:20 PM in Can Old & New Hot Water Systems Be Combined?that you have expansion tanks and a pumped system. If it weren't for that, I'd guess that you might have a steam system. The reason is that you mention someone draining "'black gunk' from all the boilers" which would indicate steam (not hot water) On a steam system, the float in the low water cut-off needs to be kept clean and flushing the float chamber once a week is necessary. Typically, you don't drain hydronic systems; it's not good for them.
Gravity systems were popular at the turn of the century, mostly because pumps weren't around yet. Pumps are now required to provide the flow necessary to pick up the heat on modern boilers that have a smaller heat exchange surface.
To answer your question, radiators are sized the same for pumped vs. gravity systems. The only thing that changes when doing a gravity conversion is that a thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) is added to the radiator piping.
@ January 29, 2010 6:53 PM in Best FLUX!I've been using flux from Crest/Good:
and even though Mark Eatherton rails against it, I cut a hole in the top for my acid brush.
Copper tubing? Typle M I've never seen a reason to use type L; It's more expensive, takes longer to cut and has a reduced capacity.