Heating Help

Seriously-

@ May 24, 2012 8:21 AM in Is this why we make fun of engineers

Would Dan or a representative of the "Steam and Vapor Heating Association of America" draft a nice note to MIT and/or this guy's startup firm?
We're having a good laugh here (though it also makes my skin crawl), but it would seem that no good can come from this. Speak, dead men!
Thanks,
Patrick

Walkabout-

@ May 24, 2012 8:13 AM in What's best: Replace Radiator with Heat pump/HVAC or...

... if your system is indeed steam, do yourself a big favor and buy a copy of "The Lost Art of Steam Heating" from this website. As we've restored the neglected steam system (I'm just a homeowner myself) this book has saved my bacon many times over.
Regardless, yours is a common situation- a sense that your radiant heating system could be restored economically and efficiently, but a lack of local professional know-how. Stick around and ask questions- you will find your answers!
Berkely Springs is a lovely town- I drive through on the way to my brother's in VA.

Good luck!
Patrick

Gotcha-

@ May 10, 2012 4:07 PM in Pushing the limits of radiator tapping size

When you said "throttling" I immediately imagined some sort of inlet valve with an orifice to control input, but I guess the air vent offers similar control. Not sure where one would find such a valve these days, anyway. This sounds like a good plan- pipe it as one pipe, test, and then continue piing in the drip to the wet return if (and probably when) there are problems. Luckily the rad is directly over closet space on the first floor so adding in the drip isn't that disrutive.
Thanks for walking me through this, Rod! I'll post pix when it's done.
Thanks,
Patrick

Two-pipe with vents or trap?

@ May 10, 2012 9:13 AM in Pushing the limits of radiator tapping size

Interesting. Is this what you did with your oddball two-pipe rad? I suppose if I'm going to the trouble of adding a drip to the wet return (this rad is on the second floor) then including a trap rather than a vent (while a bit cheaper overall) probably requires negligibly more effort.
Anyone have an opinion on which method would work better, or have other suggestions altogether?
Thanks,
Patrick

Cool.

@ May 9, 2012 4:13 PM in Pushing the limits of radiator tapping size

I sure could pipe it as a 2-pipe radiator. What "flavor" of two pipe setup seems most appropriate,given that a) this radiator isn't particularly oversized and won't benefit from throttling back input, and b) being part of an otherwise 1-pipe system?
Thanks,
Patrick 

Nope-

@ May 8, 2012 6:29 PM in Pushing the limits of radiator tapping size

... no bushings. Alas, 3/4" is really it. And yes, yes pressure is nice and low (barely a few ounces) and well vented.
Thanks,
Patrick

Pushing the limits of radiator tapping size

@ May 8, 2012 4:14 PM in Pushing the limits of radiator tapping size

Gentlemen,
I've got one-pipe steam. Recently I purchased the Radiator of My Dreams as part of a bathroom renovation. Unfortunately, the radiator seems to have been intended for a two pipe setup, and it's tappings are quite small. Here's the facts:
 
Radiator EDR: Approximately 30
Radiator inlet/outlet tappings: 3/4"
Steam service pipe at this location: 1 1/4"
 
At a minimum, I'm thinking of keeping the valve at 1 1/4" then reducing to 3/4 for the radiator connection (rather than using a 3/4" valve), and using a slow vent. From what I can glean from Dan's books, this is really pushing things and frankly I'm expecting it won't work that well. Did I mention this is the radiator of my dreams? Any thoughts on how well this will work? I'm wondering though... I happen to have a Ridgid 300  in the basement, time, and a penchant for chasing windmills. What do you all think about the possibility of piping this as a two pipe radiator?
I'm open to ideas.
 
Thanks,
Patrick

Steam is best.

@ April 16, 2012 2:49 PM in Steam vs hydro air for allergies

My daughter and I have lousy allergies- she worse than I. The allergist we see said that steam or hot water radiators are far superior to forced air when it comes to keeping household allergies in check, and my experience agrees. We had forced air in our last home (with plenty o' high tech filtration) and my dust allergies etc. were worse there.
It's not that you can have air filters with such systems- it's that you must have them to attempt to counter the dust storm! Even if you filter the system air you can't stop the registers from blowing around particulate in the room.
If your wife is reacting to the dust caught by convection currents it's a big help to dust those radiators with a damp rag. We avoid using chemical dusting sprays because of the smell when heated. As we renovate our home we've been powdercoating radiators and find that as a side benefit this makes them a breeze to keep clean and dust free. A lot cheaper than converting to hydro air, too!
Good luck,
Patrick

Cool corner rad

@ March 30, 2012 8:41 AM in Cool corner rad

After my last ebay radiator purchase, my wife would kill me, but maybe one of you all is pining for this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Unique-Steam-Radiator-A-A-Griffing-Iron-Co-1874-/220988857541?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3373f65cc5
Looks like it's missing its top, but a nice piece of marble could be really nice. Looks like he has a pair- pricy, but what a statement two could make.
Patrick

Never say never

@ March 6, 2012 7:58 AM in A tricky question about the economics of heating a garage

Why the certaintly that there is "no possibility of insulation "? This space doesn't sound all that big. Reframing the doorway to accomodate a weathertight, insulated door and adding some interior storms could have a huge impact. Insulating the walls would be an improvement, too.
Of the insulated drop ceilings I've seen, none were done well, all complicated the access to mechanicals, and most (eventualy) hid larger problems.
Good luck,
Patrick

Thanks!

@ February 13, 2012 7:37 AM in Circular Steam Radiator on eBay

... for the tip, Steamhead! Been looking for one for a while!
Thanks,
Patrick

Gorton #4 is slower

@ February 9, 2012 10:40 AM in Hammer with Gorton #4 but not with Hoffman 1A

Setting a Hoffman 1A isn't an exact science, but wide open it should have substantially more venting capacity than the Gorton #4. Maybe you have a bum Hoffman vent? The Gorton #4 is on the slow side- I'd investigate for problems outside of the vent.
What was a radiator vented with before? Did it heat well?
A sagging runout could be holding on to extra condensate- you could check all connected pipe and the radiator itself for proper pitch.
Good luck,
Patrick

Spooked vents

@ February 7, 2012 8:38 AM in Air vent questions

I’m stumped on the Vari-Valve question. Some people don’t care for them because they vent so fast, so your problem is ironic to say the least. Can’t hurt to return them for replacements.
Without a low pressure gauge it's difficult to assess system pressure. Pressuretrols are notoriously inaccurate at the low pressures desirable in a steam system. Consider adding one- it's not a big investment and it can tell you a lot about your system. Also, if you suspect your main vents are inadequate they could certainly contribute to higher operating pressures.
As to the Hoffmans, my experience has not been favorable, though many people do like them. I was attracted to them because of the ability to fine tune the venting rate, but found that even when producing dry steam at low pressure and with radiators properly sloped the vents would collect water and eventually stop working. Some would merely gurgle/hiss as if under extreme pressure when shut (though my system cuts out at under 1#). Maybe this is what you are experiencing. I can’t be sure but I suspected dirt/condensate was preventing a good seat on the supposedly shut valve. I’ve since replaced all of my Hoffman 1As with Gorton vents- problem solved. Some folks have had luck with boiling fouled vents in a vinegar solution, but frankly, I think the 1A is just not a great design.
If you’re antsy about giving up on variable capacity vents, (heck, even if you’re not) I recommend looking at “Balancing Steam Systems Using a Venting Capacity Chart,” available through this site. It’s a quick read, but it’s packed with clear, actionable info. For me it has been very helpful in selecting the right vents (for both mains and rads) and knowing why they were the right ones. You may find, for example, that mixing those high capacity Vari-Valves (if you ever get them to work!) with the more modest Hoffmans causes new problems.
Good luck,
Patrick

Hmmm...

@ February 6, 2012 1:04 PM in Air vent questions

Re: #1- no, they shouldn't be failing with such regularity. Is it possible that you're boiler is operating at elevated pressures? High pressure among other things can ruin these vents in short order. What is your pressuretrol/vaporstat set at? Do you have a low pressure gauge (in addition to the code required 0-30# gauge) to monitor system pressure?
Re:#2- this is surprising. The vari-valve is a very fast vent- as in several times faster than the Hoffman. Can you blow air through the vent (make sure it's pointing upright)? Do you have the vent at its highest (wide open) setting?

Patrick

Not just straight

@ February 1, 2012 2:26 PM in No. 6 Gorton (G6S8) and other STRAIGHT valves

Hi Jerry,
All the Gorton vents intended for use on radiators (including the #6) can be had with an angled connection, making extra fittings unnecessary. Frankly, I didn't even know you could buy them in a "straight" configuration.
If you're having trouble finding the exact vent you want locally, I've had good luck with www.pexsupply.com. Just bought a half dozen #6's (with angled connection) from them last week.
Good luck,
Patrick

Plugged sightglass?

@ January 27, 2012 7:51 AM in Filling steam boiler. Is this right?

It could be that your sight glass is plugged and therefore isn't showing the true water level in the boiler.
Water could be expected to come out of these vents if you simply overfilled your boiler until water entered the steam mains. These vents would simply be the first available exit point for the rising water. If your sightglass was mostly plugged up it might take a while for the true water level to register- if it does at all.
The petcock valves on a sightglass are often not of the best quality- some installers replace them with better valves. Removing the sightglass and giving them a good cleaning is not terribly difficult, given care, and may be worth a try in this case.
This is also a good reminder to blow down your boiler regularly. Might be time for an annual checkup from a local boiler pro. And consider updgrading (read: upsizing!) your main vents while you're at it.
Good luck,
Patrick

Life Lesson #23,944: When in doubt, look behind the Christmas decorations.

@ January 21, 2012 4:15 PM in Hole in steamer?

Yes! Ed, you were right.
Many thanks for linking me to that thread. I remembered reading it, but being that I wasn't having that problem at that time, it must not have sunk in.
I read it and resolved to play detective. Cranked up the boiler and let 'er run for a good while, overheating the place. I checked everything. Then I checked again and that made all the difference. There behind a stack of rubbermaid totes I saw a riser union leaking like a seive. I could actually tighten the nut a good half turn by hand, it was that loose. Evidently this leak was invisible except when the system had been running for a good while.
When I find the dope that repiped my header and mains this summer and neglected to tighten that unon, why I'm gonna... well, I'm gonna buy him a nice Scotch and breathe a sigh of relief.
THANK YOU, gentlemen. I will be using the pressure test method to check for additional leaks just as soon as I unclench my jaw.
Thanks again,
Patrick 

2.5-3 gallons overnight

@ January 21, 2012 3:01 PM in Hole in steamer?

I just checked- I'd say I lost between 2.5 and 3 gallons of boiler water between 8:00 last night and around noon today.
This seems like more than I could expect to lose because of a couple of bum radiator vents, and yet I'm surprised not to be able to detect a hole in the boiler (via overfilling the boiler). But I'm no pro and have nothing to gage these expectations against.
Yes, any time I've added water I'm dilligent about ensuring that it is well boiled immediately. I have not kept good records of the times I needed to top up the water, but you can bet I will now... It has definitely become more common over time.
When I first suspected someting was amiss I checked my main vents (several Gorton #2) by placing a bread bag over each and checking for condensation. This turned up nothing, but again, I'm no pro...
Any other insights or troubleshooting tips?
Thanks,
Patrick

Nope-

@ January 21, 2012 1:03 PM in Hole in steamer?

All new above ground returns. All the main and  piping is visible and easily accessed.
Thanks,
Patrick

Hole in steamer?

@ January 21, 2012 12:07 PM in Hole in steamer?

Hi all,
I've got a Smith G-8 steamer- only about two years old. Last year I was fretting that I was losing water- I had to top up the boiler about once a month because it would shut off on low water. Eventually decided that this wasn't enough to worry about- evaporation and a few iffy vents could account for the water loss.
Well, this year the problem is cropping up more frequently. Last night I got home to find the boiler shut off due to low water. I tried filling the boiler to the header to check for a leak- nothing (at least nothing conspicuous). I topped up the boiler to the normal water level- around 8:00 last night. As of about a half hour ago the boiler is off again due to low water. I've got two "suspicious" radiator vents, but no other obvious signs of water loss. All new returns (above ground) etc.
Any advice? Steam pros around here are slim pickings ("Have I ever heard of Hollo-who?").
Thanks all,
Patrick

DIY

@ January 20, 2012 7:55 AM in Wall-mount radiator install?

Hi Jeff,
I recall a thread some time ago where Steamhead actually cast "new antique" wall rad brackets out of- I believe- aluminum. I've never gone to these lengths, but I have fabricated several pair out of steel stock. They work and look great, and it's easy to customize the "standoff" distance from the wall. If you or a buddy can weld, it's not difficult.
I've made two types. With a rad like the one you pictured (I have the same rad in a larger model in my kitchen) I simply made a flat bottom bracket (like the one on the left) using 2"X 1/4" stock. For rads that are round on the bottom, I cut a segment out of a short length of pipe to act as a sort of cradle. Four screws apiece have been adequate for me, though the real trick is ensuring a strong substrate. Wouldn't want to rely on drywall anchors in a case like this.
It's actually been a bit trickier to fashion top supports. For the last few I've fabricated standoffs that can be screwed to the wall behind the top portion of the rad. I thread a bolt (with a large washer) through the rad and secure it to the standoff. This ensures the rad remains stable and parallel to the wall with minimal interference to the rad's convection.
Good luck!
Patrick

Thanks, all!

@ January 9, 2012 7:23 AM in Pressure Booster on Hot Water

Thanks for the responses everyone. Sounds like I've got some homework to do. Bob, the Aquaboost pump sounds ideal- i'll check that out. I'll report back after doing some additional investigating into my plumbing.
Thanks again,
Patrick