Joined on August 21, 2009
Last Post on August 9, 2013
@ August 9, 2013 6:27 PM in Creatherm panelsI've been curious about the Creatherm panels for quite a while, I notice they use similar panels almost exclusively in Europe for radiant floor installations. I do agree though it's better to have a bit of space under the pipe for more efficient heat transfer but I think rebar or mesh should be the uppermost component to limit surface cracking. My typical radiant floor I install goes from the bottom up: vapour barrier > styrofoam > pipe tracking > pipe > mesh. Usually the mesh sits right on top of the pipe witch gives it a good position in the slab & the tracking give the space between the styro & pipe. I think rebar is overkill for anything but a garage.
@ July 29, 2013 12:04 PM in pump insulator covers?I called up Grundfos & Wilo asking for this very thing and they said they don't have such a thing. I mentioned that I saw pictures of their pumps sporting them and I swear I could hear their eyes roll over the phone as they said "Not in North America"
I use Armaflex 2" X 1/8" insulation tape for this task & while functional it's not too pretty.
@ July 22, 2013 2:30 PM in Against the Plywood?I mostly use Erico Microfix or Mupro clamps. I do use the Unistrut Cush-A-Clamps for big headers or if I have a lot of stuff in a row that I want really solid. I do like the depth flexibility of the Microfix/Mupro though.
@ July 10, 2013 12:55 PM in All sorts of information... no resolution...It looks as though you are on the right track but 42 btu/sqft seems outrageously high to me. Also, I doubt you would require 180F supply temperature, even 170F is really high if you've done any envelope improvements at all. I think it would be worth it for you to have a heat loss calc professionally done, i'm sure someone else on here could turn you onto a local contractor. Then you would have some more concrete numbers so you can proceed to the next step. Where are you located?
@ July 10, 2013 12:11 PM in Can i replace my Indirect fired water heater with a conventional Water Heater?It certainly can be done , were you considering a gas or electric conventional? if the latter, you would need a new breaker & wire run to the new tank which might be close to the value of a new indirect if you have to hire an electrician. If the former it would definitely be more than replacing the indirect after you muck around installing a new vent & gas line to supply it, either way the difference would be negligible and a lot more headache imo. Stick with the indirect, be happy.
@ June 26, 2013 11:05 AM in Help with finding an angle valve for Runtal radiatorsCan you move the rad further off the wall? If I remember correctly the Runtal 'L' brackets can be flipped around for different wall spacings.
@ June 25, 2013 2:10 PM in Radiant tubing and toilet wax sealOver the years I've had many people bring this up but I've left wax seals on my dash before in the summer and they don't get significantly deformed and that is way hotter than any radiant floor would get. I think the floor would be uncomfortable to walk on before it would be a danger to the wax seal.
@ June 25, 2013 2:03 PM in HydroniCAD - Old Files Turned BlackI have an older version that i've never upgraded and occasionally when I open an old file that I haven't looked at in a while it will do the same thing. I've sent messages to AD but never got a reply.
@ June 25, 2013 12:53 PM in pex or copper,cast or pvcI started my apprenticeship just as Poly-B was being phased out (I've done a handful of rough-ins with it that are still going strong, lol!) I've done lot's of copper rough-ins too and hope to never do one again; unbelievably time consuming and i've done a few tearouts to replace with PEX because the copper had become paper thin, I can't comprehend why anyone would prefer it over PEX. I always get a laugh watching Mike Holmes when he get's all excited when his plumber is installing some PEX like it's a brand new invention when i've been using it for almost 20 years!
I remember my instructor (who was on the plumbing code board) when I went for my second year schooling (around 1996 or so) saying the exact same thing about nipples & gas cocks! But nothing has changed as far as i'm aware. (this is in Canada BTW)
@ May 27, 2013 11:23 AM in New Vitodens boilersI want one of these: http://www.in-wohnen.de/uploads/pics/Vitosolar_300_F_Bild_1.jpg
Dual purpose space heating & domestic solar storage with backup boiler & solar pumping station, all pumps, mixing valves & controls built in for 8,500 Eur.
@ May 14, 2013 4:15 PM in No RebarIs there styrofoam? You could use pipe tracking or staple directly to. It would not be wise to have no reinforcement in the concrete though, especially inn a loading dock.
@ May 6, 2013 11:29 AM in Suggestions for frustrated and confused homeownerI live in the in interior of BC but unfortunately I don't know of any good installers in Van proper. I know how hard it can be to find someone who knows what they are doing but they are out there, you'll just have to be vigilant.
As for equipment I will vouch for The Triangle Tube, very nice boiler & very reliable. I have a preference for Viessmann myself, I have had very few problems with them at all, I have an older Vitodens 200 with an indirect water heater in my own place that has given me zero issues in almost 8 years of continuous service. They have an office in Langley, you may want to hit them up for installer recommendations.
@ May 6, 2013 11:01 AM in Polypropylene vents becoming the way to goPP is more than 636 rated PVC but a little cheaper than 636 CPVC which you are supposed to use on boiler installations (in Canada anyways) though not everyone does.
@ April 18, 2013 11:34 AM in Tekmar 406I would say definitely maybe. The 406 does have a tN4 input but I don't know how extensive it's capabilities are, I think it's just intended as a setpoint or scene switch input. If you haven't already I would get on the horn with tekmar tech support, they are very helpful and will set you straight right away.
@ April 8, 2013 11:43 AM in radiant coolingThere is a good series on Robert Bean's Healthy Heating website
Tekmar has a great new comprehensive control for it, The 406 heat pump control
I've only ever done it once in a customers house as a trial. They have no other form of cooling and no real accurate humidity control just a standard HRV set up. I set it so the floor return would not dip below the usual dew point for the area. By itself it can only handle the sensible cooling load, it cannot dehumidify, but it does "take the edge off" which is all the client wanted and they are happy.
@ April 5, 2013 3:47 PM in Hydronicly ChallengedErr, it looks like that link is a heat GAIN calculation, the inverse of a heat LOSS calculation. Do you have a link to the heat loss calc?
@ April 4, 2013 4:46 PM in Hydronicly ChallengedI just wanted to pipe in on the R-value of ICF walls. Your pro who advised you that your walls are only R-22 is wrong. If you have a good heatloss program you can calculate the R-factor of different wall assemblies and they take into account the lack of thermal bridging in ICF construction, a big factor in conventional stick frame construction. You probably are close to R-40.
I also live above the 49th parallel and I can tell you from personal experience that my radiant slab in my ICF basement requires very little temperature & flowrate and I have a significant amount of windows & tubing is 9" centres. Even with the slab off it mantains 17C in the winter.
Your tubing spacing is abnormally wide, the minimum I would ever do in any circumstance is 12" but my gut tells me you will probably be all right.
@ March 26, 2013 10:57 AM in Pump Power for GLHPI'm pretty sure they do not. Definitely something to consider though, I've seen some ground loop set-ups pushing 1500W!
@ March 20, 2013 1:57 PM in Radiant heat back upHopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will chime in, in the meantime this is a good read and should give you a bit more of a general sense of what would be involved.
@ March 20, 2013 1:50 PM in Water Furnace pump failuresAn expansion tank won't prevent corrosion, like I mentioned, if there is corrosion present in the system you would have to get the water analysed & take action based on the results. ie: adding a corrosion inhibitor chemical like furnox or the like. (make sure whatever you put in the system is compatible with the current fluid such as methyl hydrate which is common in geo ground loops)
I usually set my ground loops at 45 PSI or so, it would work fine at any pressure as long as the suction side of the pump doesn't dip at or below zero, that's when cavitation happens. However, since it is a completely closed loop with no make-up I like to set them where I do to add a pressure "buffer" in case pressure is lost over time it can be topped up at the next service interval.
@ March 8, 2013 4:51 PM in Water Furnace pump failuresAdd an expansion tank, pressure gauge and an air separator if they are not already present, the air separator is recommended but can be omitted if the system is purged really well. In addition get the water analysed by a heating speciality lab and treat as necessary. By far the most likely reason pumps caff out is because of cavitation due to loss of pressure. If you have an expansion apparatus in the system it will alleviate that.
@ March 8, 2013 4:39 PM in Garage Slab Thermal BreakSeparate the two slabs with min 2" styro and fasten an aluminium tread over it.