Robbie
Joined on September 15, 2009
Last Post on June 10, 2010
Recent Posts
What is the best tool...
@ June 10, 2010 4:44 PM in What is the best tool...
For removing your arm when trapped by the furnace?http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20100610/ap_on_re_us/us_trapped_in_furnace
I don't think I would have been too happy... Why didn't he just let go of the cookie?
Scott
Skimming
@ March 24, 2010 5:48 PM in Skimming
Hi Guys-I have been running my system now on the new boiler about a month- we have been living there about 3 weeks, maybe 4 so far... Seems to be working nicely, but two front rooms don't get as warm as the rest of the upstairs(their doors are kept closed to sequester three cats till the work downstairs is complete) Also, the bathroom radiator never seems to heat any more. However, since the weather has turned, it aint so bad. Oh- I had the Vari-valves on all four working radiators upstairs, but swapped one out with a regular. I think I may swap all, and put the vari valves downstairs, so it warms slower there, to allow more heating time upstairs before the thermostat shuts the boiler off: this may correct the cold room situation- seems the boiler only runs for a little while, and the place heats right up.
Anyway- I have not really worked out the proper skimming procedure, despite reading the manuals, Dan's book, etc... I have a 1 1/2" skim port, which comes out a 6" nipple, to a 45 down, and is reduced to a 3/4" ball valve. What I have been doing is, when the system is fired, or just come on, I open the valve, and let it run until the water comes out clean. Usually it is inky/tar black for a few seconds, then it shifts to clear water. I can't tell water level in the glass tube because it had crud in it for so long it needs cleaning.(At least not without a flashlight behind it.)
Any ideas how I may do this correctly? I always forget when I plan to do it according to the book...
Thanks!
Scott
Pipe
@ March 3, 2010 2:46 AM in wet returns
I think Black Pipe is the norm. I seem to recall that the heat affects the galvanized stuff...Also less expensive :)
Scott
Water Return Sediment Trap
@ February 26, 2010 8:12 PM in Water Return Sediment Trap
Having been running my nice new (well, the boiler & near piping anyway) steam system for a few days now, I got to thinking about the sediment/sludge & crap flowing down from the radiators and lines in the water return... When I removed a section of old pipe in the wet return, I found it had filled about 1/4 of the way with old scale & junk. (I had to replace the section, as it was rusted through in one small spot) This was after the first day's running.Would it be possible to create a sediment filter box, and incorporate it into the system? Perhaps a box with a removable top, where the cold return comes in through the upper half, passes through a mesh screen, and continues out from the lower half, so any scale, etc. gets retained, and cleaned out from time to time? This would allow the boiler to be kept free of this junk. It could be mounted between two unions, and replace a section of return line.
Comments/ideas?
Thanks!
Scott
Funny you should mention that...
@ February 23, 2010 10:47 PM in Existing Steam versus New Forced Air?
I used them to trace some of my outlets when I was in the basement the other day: Had a radio upstairs, plugged into the outlet I needed to trace, and positioned it near an opened duct outlet... Had the radio cranked, and went to the basement, and started flipping breakers till the radio went out- the sound was carried through the vent :) Worked well!I am considering using the duct to route micro-vent for A/C to the 2nd floor, and have some sort of plenum outlet at the end of each, so I can use the old grates, and have it look like an old air outlet. Have to find about a dozen or so grates, but seems like a simple way to run central air!
Scott
Well,
@ February 23, 2010 5:38 PM in Existing Steam versus New Forced Air?
Have you ever noticed how many old homes have steam systems, and the remains of a forced air system? My 1883 Victorian has single pipe steam, but has the old ducts for forced air heat in the walls still... And I looked at one 1904 one with the forced air still in place. Looks like the steam predated the electricity in the house- one of the ducts has wiring run through it- Knob and Tube! So, apparently by the time they converted to electricity from gas, they'd had steam for a while!Scott
Steam HO!
@ February 22, 2010 5:54 PM in Steam HO!
The saga continues, however...The "Utility Futility" thread described the problems I have been having with PSE&G. Last week we found the right person- one of the field service reps came out and looked not only at my meter, but the photos taken three months ago, before the other two meters were removed, and agreed I had used NO GAS!
So, my bill is being corrected, with the current reading as the start...
This morning, I had an HVAC guy who's been helping me with other stuff leak check the gas lines, and light the water heater...I now have hot water for the first time since I've owned the house!
THEN, I had him double check the furnace, check the radiators, and FIRE THE BOILER! We Have HEAT!!! All is working nicely, but I wondered why it was firing so long: simple- the Pressuretrol was set to 8psi! Never changed it when it arrived, and hadn't thought to... So I wound it back to about 1.5psi. Unit shut right down, and then resumed normal operation. We did discover a couple simple leaks in the steam loop, but nothing we can't resolve in a couple hours.
All Radiators installed worked well, except for the smell of paint from them- I had been using Zip-Strip on some to clean them, and it is cooking off. Other than the smell, they worked well. Everything seemed to do what it should. My plan is to use the radiators as they are for now, then pull and strip them one at a time over the summer. For control purposes, I put variable vents on the upstairs radiators, and regular vents downstairs, as I figured, since heat rises, the upstairs will probably end up warmer, so being able to cut the radiators earlier will help.
So, I am now happy about the heat- It WORKS, there were no major noises, and we should be able to move in (into a partially restored house) this weekend.
We have HEAT!!!
Looks Like
@ February 22, 2010 5:40 PM in Improper piping
This unit looks like the same Union Steam boiler I just put in a couple months ago- You might want to look at their site, and see if they list the close pipingkit: a couple hundred bucks, but worth it to get all the proper pipes to redo the job properly...Scott
Steam/Hot Air
@ February 12, 2010 9:42 PM in Steam history question
My house(built in 1883) appears to have originally had forced hot air, as did one around the corner we looked at, built in 1904(and still has the original hot air setup, but with a newer heating unit).I am thinking about getting the old, and still present, ducts cleaned, and use them to push AC around the place... I figure they are in place already.
Still working on the details
Scott
?
@ January 30, 2010 1:13 AM in Utility Futility!
So, what is the difference? I'm sure I could find a way to get an oil fired burner under it... ;)Scott
Readings
@ January 30, 2010 1:11 AM in Utility Futility!
Actually, their estimated total was way low... However, that does not change the fact I have used no gas since moving in...I do have photos I took before closing of the meters(all three in place) and also after the two extras were removed: When enlarged, you can make out the positions of the pointers in both pics, on the meter in question: and they are unchanged- and match the current reading. I have to get them enlarged & printed- I want to have them handy for the investigator, when he shows up. I brought them up on another computer, and I could see well enough to see they are the same. On my computer, the photo utility is not great...
Scott
Well,
@ January 28, 2010 8:00 PM in Utility Futility!
There was supposed to be one, but nobody from either agent called for one! And their estimate was way low: they had not gotten an actual reading in months, as nobody lived there...One PSE&G reader came by in December, but his reading does not seem to have been recorded! I let him in myself. And they removed two meters- I would have thought they'd have checked the reading then, but they did not.
I took photos of the meters when there were still 3 there, and I am hoping I have a good enough angle, and can zoom enough to make out the reading... It should not have changed, given the gas is shut off at the meter!
I am also going to have PSE&G move the meter outside,, so this "estimate" crap never happens again!
Scott
Type...
@ January 28, 2010 6:23 PM in Utility Futility!
It is the Union Steam equivalent of a Weil-McLaine EG-45.Not sure what type that is tho, beyond a steam boiler(single pipe steam)
Scott
Utility Futility!
@ January 27, 2010 6:18 PM in Utility Futility!
I finally got all the connections made on my new boiler, etc., and would love to report it is working wonderfully, heat is super, and I am very happy. I'd like to, but I can't... I was preparing to leak check the gas lines after the replacement(as well as replacement of the valves in the line) when my work in this vein was brought to a screeching, grinding halt. I received my gas bill...This should not present a problem, but here it is: I have been working on a house I bought in November. Since it was purchased, I have not used ANY gas! The water heater was off, pending a check out and cleaning(I did that a couple weeks ago) and the old boiler was quite burnt out. So, no need for gas- All line cocks are closed, so no gas flow.
To complicate this situation, the house had 3 gas regulators in place, and I had two removed by PSE&G (gas & electric co), so I was down to one. Also, nobody had occupied the place in around 6-8 months before we bought it, so they have been unable to get an actual reading, and have been relying on estimated readings!
Why am I mentioning all this? Because I received a bill, for NO USE, of over $900.00! They have me as using over $600 worth of gas! Because their estimates were wrong, and because they did not bother getting a reading before closing.
I am waiting for their investigator to contact me, and have had the gas acct. frozen. How hard is it to convert a brand new gas boiler to oil?
All that work, and the coldest winter in years- I am restoring a house in bitter cold using an electric heater, because I refuse to pay for gas not used, and so have left the entire system as it is- new stuff connected, radiators not connected and no pilots lit. I can't wait for heat. At least my 2 day plumbing repairs to the house(all the stuff in the basement was missing) are almost done- after almost 3 months of solid work!(whole house replumbed...)
You guys have no idea how frustrated I am... Thanks for letting me "vent"!
Scott
Try this trick
@ January 14, 2010 11:01 PM in Piping puzzle
Old mechanics trick to try- If you are trying to remove what looks to be a valve with a union style fitting on either side at the upper right of the photo, take about a 16oz to 24oz ball peen hammer, and, using the flat or "peen" side, give a few sharp whacks to as many of the flats of the nut as you can. What this does is jars the threads, and usually releases the tension that has developed from tightening. I have used this technique many, many times, on everything from recalcitrant brake reservoir caps in a 1946 Plymouth, to the large unions on my old boiler pipes when taking it apart.Once you have given a few sharp whacks, you should start to feel some movement when you put a pipe wrench on it.
You don't need to beat hell out of it, but just strong, sharp blows against the flats of the nut.
Robbie
What I'd do
@ January 14, 2010 5:53 PM in New Steam Boiler - Copper Piping
But I am nuts,....I'd pay the contractor for his work, then cancel any further contract with him. tear out all the copper, and put in the proper materials. Sell the copper for scrap value(should be a nice chunk of coinage), which may reimburse for the black pipe.
Just do the work yourself- It is not that hard.
Then be sure to put that contractors name on that "whatsis' list" where you tell about service received from a business... And be sure you state your case that the man just does not care to listen!
Scott
Wonder
@ January 4, 2010 3:56 PM in Help - New Steam Boiler Piping
Was the old piping all cast iron or black pipe? All that copper must have cost you a bundle! And, if he put it in by mistake, I'd say you may have a good case for looking at incompetance issues...Scott
Usually...
@ January 4, 2010 10:05 AM in Heating blueprint symbols
Usually that symbol indicates diameter of an object in a blueprint.Scott.
Assembly Question!
@ December 31, 2009 10:29 PM in Assembly Question!
Happy New Year, Steamers!I have FINALLY reached the boiler assembly stage after a good month of working on the house, and have just assembled all the close piping. I used pipe dope liberally on all the threads for the pipes, but have a question... When I assemble the unions, should I be putting a little pipe dope on the faces of the cone and cup, or the outside flat parallel flange area, or the union nut threads, or anywhere besides the pipe threads? 3 of the unions(2 - 2", and 1 gas line) are the original ones, and have a little wear: the fourth is brand new. I am not experienced with plumbing, so I figured I would ask...
For those following the work, I have been trying to get to this point for about a month: since I am not living in the house yet, heat has not been a real issue: but with the recent cold snap in the idatlantic, it has been quite chilly working in the house, so I finally put everything else aside & decided to push getting the boiler assembled, radiators in, and steam up...
Waiting for a reply! I will post pics when I am done-
Thanks!
Scott
Have you tried Skimming?
@ December 28, 2009 12:13 PM in cleaning a new boiler?
The manuals often state to skim the water- you are basically draining off the top "layer"which will have any floating oils, etc. on it. These oils can cause problems... When you drain the boiler, they will settle onto the inside, and then float off again until the next time... You may be getting only half the problem. Check the installation manual, and owners manual for the boiler: they should have directions where the skim tap is, and how to do this. I have seen a thread on this recently here, so you might want to try a search for it.Scott
Just a quick nudge...
@ December 28, 2009 11:28 AM in Pressure Testing, Installation questions,and Finding a professional
To bump this back onto the front page: I am still looking for someone in the Merchantville, NJ area(08109) who might be able to swing by and give my system a once over & bounce q&A with...Got all my piping roughed onto the boiler- might try to fit it all final tonight or tomorrow...wow. Steam heat- might be nice for a change... lol...
Scott
Condensate?
@ December 28, 2009 11:22 AM in Boiler over filled
Could you have a slow condensate return? The automatic water fill should have an adjustment for condensate return time IIRC. If this has changed for some reason, then perhaps the low water triggered the auto fill, which did not give sufficient time for condensate return, filling it to proper level, which then got raised when the condensate came back after...Just a thought-
Scott



