Heating Help

diffusers

@ February 4, 2012 10:38 AM in Inconspicuous HRV/ERV ceiling inlets/outlets

I've seem everything from conventional louver-type diffusers to the round outlets for hi-velocity systems used.  The only thing I would recommend is that the outlets be mounted so they don't discharge directly onto anyone.  ER/HRV units are only about 80% efficient, and can discharge cold air on days when it is very cold outside.  Insulation of the ductwork is vital.

Humidifier

@ January 23, 2012 3:27 PM in 2nd Floor Humidifier

I recommend that humidistats be located in the occupied space.  If water is flowing thru the pad, when the upstairs unit is running, but the downstairs unit is off, I don't think enough water will evaporate to do much on the top floor.  Bypass units need very warm air flowing thru the pad to evaporate the water.  Typically, most bypass units are mounted on the return, with the hot air coming off the heat exchanger ducted directly to them.  They only operate on a call for heat.  As I mentioned in my first post, a remote-mounted steam humidifier is your best solution for your 2nd floor unit, but they do require a water supply and a drain, and electrical service.

Humidifier

@ January 23, 2012 2:27 PM in 2nd Floor Humidifier

Usually, a bypass humidifier is set up to start before a heating cycle begins, so the pad is wet when the heat exchanger warms up and the fan starts.  The solenoid water valve is wired to the humidistat, or the home control unit.  Unless your upstairs unit is wired to the humidifier, it can't open the solenoid.  Does the humidifier run when the upstairs unit is running, and where is your humidistat located?

Humidifier

@ January 23, 2012 1:46 PM in 2nd Floor Humidifier

Humidity tends to diffuse evenly thru the entire structure.  If supplied by a humidifier, or by showers, cooking or laundry drying, it's the same.  Your contractor was right about the bypass unit freezing in the attic, a better choice would have been a steam humidifier, mounted remotely, with an insulated line running up to the attic ductwork.  That duct work MUST be well insulated. Sizing of the humidifier might be an issue as well; it may not have the capacity to handle both systems.  You can increase the output of a bypass unit by running hot water thru it rather than cold.  Your target range is between 40 & 60% humidity, below 40 is too dry, above 60 is too wet. 

Humidistat

@ January 20, 2012 8:58 PM in Phil

Try www.customer.honeywell.com, and follow the prompts for humidity controls.  I believe there are thermostat/humidstat combination units, and stand-alone humidistats.  The VisionPro IAQ model has humidification controls, and a lot of other features, if it is still available.  Some may not be available at retail.  Other manufacturers may have similar units as well. 

Hard water

@ January 20, 2012 2:38 PM in humidifier help

Hard water will gunk up many humidifier components for sure.  If I remember correctly, the heating element in the Truesteam is designed to flex quitre a bit as it heats and cools, and any scale is supposed to break off, and be washed away during the clean cycle.  Large chunks may block the drain, so you need to check it.  I think there also was an in-line water treatment cartridge available to help minimize the hard water problems. 

Foul odor

@ November 16, 2011 10:27 PM in Foul Odor

You may have a couple different issues here.  Evaporator (cooling) coils get wet, and if condensate doesn't drain properly, it can lead to mold or algae growing either on the coil and/or in the condensate pan. Its usually described as a "dirty sock" odor.  If your condensate line is going directly into a sanitary sewer, that's downright dangerous.  Hydrogen sulfide is very poisonous, and tends to numb your smell receptors, so you may not smell it after while, but if in a high enough concentration, it will kill you.  It is also very corrosive, and will rapidly destroy metals of all kinds.  Methane also is a component of sewer gas, and is highly flammable, and explosive in the proper mixtures, with any ignition source.  Pipe your condensate to a sump pump pit, or outside.  A basic condensate pump is all you need. 
Also, if you are using an hydronic coil for heat, it may give off an odor as it heats up, from dust and other debris on it.  It should decrease over time, and check for possible leaks.  Boiler water can be pretty smelly.

ER/HR Ventilators

@ October 11, 2011 9:14 PM in New territory for ME... HRV installation in Passive House.

Hi, Mark.  ER/HR ventilators are needed in any of the super-tight construction that this type of building has.  No ventilation quickly renders them uninhabitable.  Energy recovery ventilators recover both latent and sensible heat.  They do not require a drain or a defrost cycle.  Heat recovery ventilators recover sensible heat, and must be mounted in a conditioned space, and provided with a drain to remove liquid water during the defrost process.  Either are about 80% efficient. 
Fresh air intakes should be mounted away from any source of odors or contaminants.  That includes dryer and heating equipment exhausts, garbage cans, pet areas, carports and driveways.  ER/HR units have some basic particle filtration, but will pull in any gases or vapors that are present, so don't be surprised to smell your neighbor's BBQ during the summer, or his fireplace during the winter.
That said, they do help lower indoor odors/gases/vapors by diluting and exhausting them.  Heat recovery ventilators tend to dry a space, and energy recovery units tend to balance humidity.  They are not substitutes for range hoods, and should never be used for that, but they are quite effective in diluting bathroom odors and removing water vapor from showers.  As whole-house units, they can be stand-alone, with their own duct work, with a central intake and a vent in each room, but most often, they are ducted into the existing HVAC duct work.  They usually run 24/7on low speed and can be put into a higher fan speed by humidistat, manual or time switches, certain thermostats and home energy management systems.  Since they are 80% efficient, it is quite possible that the air coming from them may be cold on very cold days, so the discharges are usually mounted high on the wall so they won't blow on the occupants, or you can install a small hydronic or electric reheat to temper the air.
The number of air changes per hour is based on number of occupants, and most states have local regulations.  Most resi units have small capacity, and if this is large structure, several many be needed.  A heat recovery unit has a fan and an element made of thin metal.  The incoming air and the outgoing air never mix, but the heat transfers to the cooler side, warming the air in winter, cooling it in summer. Frost buildup can occur, and is dealt with by either recirculating air or activating an electric heater to melt the frost, which drains away as water.  The cycle is automatic.  An energy recovery unit has a fan and hygroscopic paper core, and allows both heat and humidity to transfer from the higher level to the lower, warming and re-humidifying incoming air in winter, cooling and dehumidifying air in the summer. Some ER units used a silica-gel desiccant wheel instead of the hygroscopic paper.
I hope this helps you in your project

Hello, capnemo.

@ September 29, 2011 9:33 PM in Safety of gasoline in basement with RC98i water heater.

You might find this article interesting.  Go to "Resources" at the top of the page, click on "homeowners" and find the Indoor Air Quality Basics for Homeowners info.  It should answer any other questions you had.

Speedy recovery to Glenn

@ September 29, 2011 9:27 PM in I just received word Glenn Stanton

Get well soon, and take it easy.  It takes a while to recover from that, and don't rush it.  Feel better.

Filtration

@ September 20, 2011 8:50 PM in Air Purification System- Filtering

Before I can give you any advice, I need some information.  What are your concerns?  Any allergies to pollen or pet dander?  Do you practice hobbies or crafts that generate potential irritants like fumes, dust or vapors?  Examples would be jewelery making, woodworking or building & painting aircraft, car or train models? 
Mechanical filters remove particles from the air, starting with the "home center" basic filter that stops hairs and dust bunnies, and basically protects the equipment, and has no air quality function. Pleated media filters, which are available from home centers and HVAC pros remove particles, based on the MERV system,the higher the number, the more efficient they are.  The top mechanical filters are HEPA filters, and they remove up to 98% of the particles that get to them.  Using HEPAS requires very careful system design, and a good maintenance program, changing the filters is very important.  HEPAS add significant resistance to air flow as they load.
Electrostatic precipitators (electronic air cleaners) charge passing particles, and they adhere to their opposite charged plates until they are washed off.  This technology is very effective on smaller particles like smoke.  They are widely used, and are professionally installed.  They require maintenance, usually twice a year, and that is washing the cells in a dishwasher, and the prefilters with a hose.
Neither of the previously mentioned filters have any effect on gasses, vapors or odors.  Those are best eliminated by removing the source, or diluting and exhausting them, using a heat or energy recovery ventilator system.  Moisture control is also important...too much or too little humidity can cause problems.
Ultraviolet lights can be added to the duct work, and they can be very effective at limiting bio-fouling of the condensate pans and the coils, others can be placed down stream to kill passing pathogens in the airstream, although their effectiveness at that is limited.
I am not familiar with the REME unit, so I can't say anything about it.  The Carrier and other competitive units all use similar technologies, combinations of the strategies I detailed above.

Hi, John!

@ September 6, 2011 3:05 PM in Info for flood areas

I'm glad I could help.  This was always a big problem after floods, and things haven't changed any.  Take care, and good luck out there.

Thank you.

@ September 6, 2011 3:02 PM in Info for flood areas

I used to get calls constantly after these natural disasters about relighting flooded appliances.  No manufacturer's ignition controls are flood proof, period!  Wet water heater insulation is another mold matrix, plus the other contamination from the filthy water.  Replacement is the only option.

Info for flood areas

@ September 4, 2011 8:06 PM in Info for flood areas

Sorry this is so late, but I just got my power & internet back.  I had sent this out earlier this year, but this latest round of Ma Nature's wrath warrants a resend.
DO NOT attempt to relight ANY combustion appliance that has been flooded!  You risk fire, explosion, personal injury and further damage. Oil ignition modules, gas valves, ignition modules, thermocouples, burners etc. MUST be replaced. This includes water heaters, too.  Replace the equipment, it can not be salvaged safely or economically. Contact your heating/cooling professional for more help.
You have about 48 hours to prevent mold growth. Once the water is pumped out, and the muck and debris is removed, fans and dehumidifiers should be used to ventilate and dry the place out.  Wet carpeting must go, and no matter what anyone says, you can not dry wet sheetrock!  It's a mold factory, get rid of it. You can spray the area with Simple Green and water from a bottle or hand pump sprayer, and wipe down with rags from the waterline down.  Follow your local authorities, FEMA or the Red Cross if they give any instructions.
Flood water contains all kinds of toxic and dangerous materials like raw sewage, petroleum products, drums, gas cylinders, pails of unknown chemicals and propane tanks.  Stay away from them and notify authorities of anything like that you find.  Have an electrician check your electric box to make sure it is safe before you turn it on.  Be careful of gas leaks, and do not enter any structure until  authority says it is safe to do so.  Walls can collapse without warning, and buildings may have shifted off their foundations.
After these events, anyone who has a valid credit card can get a pressure washer and a wetvac from a box store, and become an cleanup contractor. Avoid them, and don't let anyone pressure you into anything.  Stick with local, known businesses, or national chains like ServePro or Servicemaster, don't get ripped off.
Finally, people are running generators, pressure washers and pumps, and they ALL can produce CARBON MONOXIDE, which WILL kill you.  Don't become a victim of this silent killer.  Good luck, and stay safe out there.

De-humidification

@ August 19, 2011 11:38 AM in HVR vs. EVR vs. whole house humidification

Energy Recovery Ventilators use either a dessicant wheel or a hygroscopic paper core to transfer humidity.  The dessicant on the wheel catches water vapor, and transfers it to the side of the lowest water vapor level as it turns thru the air stream.  Hygroscopic paper does the same thing, but those cores are stationary.
They balance humidity, moving it from the airstream with the higher concentration to the lower; they do this passively without mechanical cooling.

ER/HR ventilators

@ August 18, 2011 11:07 AM in HVR vs. EVR vs. whole house humidification

Heat recovery ventilators tend to reduce interior humidity levels, because they recover sensible heat. They need a drain to drain the condensate from the de-frosting process.  Energy Recovery ventilators tend to balance indoor/outdoor humidity levels because they recover both sensible and latent heat.  They do not require a drain.  If your house is tight, and you have a ducted AC system, you can duct the ER/HR unit right into it, and utilize the AC fan to move the air around.  Put the intake above the snow line, and away from dryer exhaust, car ports, boiler exhausts, garbage cans and pet areas. A steam humidifier (self contained) can provide humidification and a small reheat coil, connected to your hydronic system with a zone valve that opens when the system is activated, will take the chill off any air circulated in the ducts.  You can tie it all together with one thermostat, several manufacturers have them.  Generally, ER/HR ventilators run at low speed all the time.  They can be programmed to run at higher speeds at certain times, on manually sped up for parties and gatherings when more people are present, and food preparation and smoking might be occurring.  They are not kitchen exhaust fans, and don't replace them, but they do dilute and exhaust odors.  You may need more than one unit to get the desired number of air changes per hour, your AC contractor can tell you this.  I hope this is useful.

Smart Grid up and running

@ June 16, 2011 10:02 AM in Smart Grid up and running

IBM and the Maltese government have completed a joint project to modernize the island's electrical system.  Malta is in a hot area of the Mediterranean Sea, and generates its own power. The system links with smart phones and computers, and you can turn on/ off lights, ac or other appliances you may have forgotten from the phone.  You also get instant energy use info. The full article is on AOL's energy page, it would not link to here.
Also, two high school kids in San Jose, California got a grant to put a similar device on their school as a science fair project, and found that the AC and lights in the building were running all weekend and on holidays, which got the attention of the school board, who since ordered them shut down, saving thousands of dollars.  In this era of tight budgets, it makes you wonder how many other places are doing exactly the same thing.  It's sad, because even pneumatic controls using time clocks and PE switches could do the same thing!  It'd not like its something new!

Magnahelic

@ June 16, 2011 9:44 AM in measuring air flow

It sounds like you are doing the test correctly.  For my purposes I used an anemometer type instrument.  Contact the manufacturer technical support, or post the question on the "Wall".  Somebody who has more experience with magnahelics could be out there.  Sorry I couldn't give a better answer.

MERV numbers

@ May 31, 2011 10:56 PM in MERV Rating

MERV is the abbreviation for minimum efficiency reporting value of how many particles a particular filter removes. They range from 1 to 16, with the disposable "home center" 1"panels at merv 1-4. Pleated media filters both retail and professional range from 4 to 12, with HEPA (high energy particle arrestance) filters at the top level of 16.  HEPA's are tested using a chemical that produces uniform size particles that are counted both upstream and downstream from the filter.  HEPAS remove about 99% of .3 micron particles.  HEPA-type and HEPA-like are NOT true HEPA filters!  If you are designing a system, remember that the filter will gain resistance as it loads, and especially if you are using HEPAS, size your fans carefully.  Electronic air cleaners don't have a MERV rating. I am not aware of anything higher than MERV16, other than a sheet of 1/2 inch plywood!

Somebody beat me to it...

@ May 17, 2011 4:35 PM in glycol feeder and mold

Hi, Mark.  I was about to ask the same question, "what is a glycol pig?"  You explained it very clearly.  We learn something every day.  BTW, you were exactly right about the glycol sugars being the "food" needed for the mold to grow.  Paper on sheetrock, wood fibers, cloth...it doesn't matter; mold will colonize any place it has the opportunity.

Nasty!

@ May 15, 2011 4:24 PM in glycol feeder and mold

Mold spores are everywhere, and it is impossible to get rid of them all.  Given food and water, the stuff will thrive, like it is doing in that bucket.  Contact an industrial hygenist, or the board of health, and get it tested to find out what kind it is.
Next, contact a mold remediator to see what you can do about it.  Don't handle it, and if you are working in that area, use a respirator with a purple(hepa) filter cartridge. 

Info for the flooded areas, the Mississippi and elsewhere.

@ May 14, 2011 10:38 AM in Info for the flooded areas, the Mississippi and elsewhere.

First of all, you have our sympathy and best wishes.  Here are some suggestions to help with the cleanup, and some precautions to take.  This is not intended to replace any orders from your local, state or federal officials.
Flood water is filthy.  It contains sewage, petroleum products, chemicals, garbage and debris.  It's crawling with disease germs, which remain after the waters recede.  Poisonous snakes and even alligators are likely part of the mix, if they occur in or near where you live.  They can be anywhere in any flooded building, so use extreme caution.  Floods can move houses off their foundations, scour soil away from basement walls, and generally destabilize any structure, so use extreme caution when entering any structure after the waters recede; it's best to wait until authority has declared a building safe to enter. Beware propane tanks, unknown chemical drums, gas cylinders and buckets.  They may contain toxic substances, or be a fire hazard.  Check with fire or police officials before trying to move anything of the sort.
NEVER try to relight ANY combustion appliance be it a water heater, furnace or boiler, range or oven that has been soaked.  No gas valve, ignition module or oil burner is safe to relight after a flood, no matter what ANYONE tells you.  Unless you want to create more damage or injure or kill yourself, don't do it!  Such equipment MUST be replaced.
Shut down the electrical system at the main disconnect, and have a licensed electrician replace the panel, and check out the wiring system.  Electrical fires are common after flood waters go down, due to wet wires and fixtures.  Shut off gas supply until the gas company can check it for leaks.
Wet sheet-rock and most other building materials like panelling CAN NOT be dried out.  They soak up water like a sponge, and once the waters recede, the paper backing and wet interior provide an ideal habitat for molds of all sorts to grow.  Remove any sheet rock that has been effected asap. Remove carpets and rugs, draperies and any soaked furniture.
Cleanup after such a disaster is emotionally devastating, and physically dangerous.  The Red Cross and FEMA have free decontamination kits, but after the basement is pumped out, and the muck is wetvac'd and pressure washed there is a lot more to do.  Please follow the directions provided with the kits. Most decontamination involves the use of chlorine bleach.  Go to the home center and get goggles, rubber or plastic gloves and a respirator with a YELLOW cartridge, a PURPLE secondary cartridge will help remove any airborne particles, the yellow will remove the chlorine.  Get several replacements, and change the cartridges when they restrict your breathing, or you begin to smell the chlorine.   DO NOT run generators, pressure washers or other power equipment in confined spaces, and beware of exhaust from them.  Don't be a victim of carbon monoxide!
Finally, beware of those fly-by-night bottom feeders who always seem to appear after any disaster, offering all kinds of services at a cut rate.  Use your local contractors, if they can still operate.  Nationally advertised companies like ServPro are usually reliable and legitimate.  Don't get victimized by human predators.