Joined on September 24, 2009
Last Post on March 9, 2014
@ March 9, 2014 5:48 PM in Steam distribution pipe removal options?We dont discuss pricing on the wall. However,tens of thousands is probably a bit over the top. However,it certainly is expensive. The main would need to be raised. With that comes redoing evert pipe that is connected to the main. Only way to give an exact price would be to set eyes on the actual layout.
@ March 5, 2014 2:11 PM in HELP with new steam boilerI wouldn't touch a green mountain with a ten foot pole. Its a side outlet boiler. Very hard to pipe adequately in best of circumstances and even harder in the small boiler rooms in most residential house. As Dan stated, boiler output needs to match heat output of radiators and piping. Typically the formula is heat output of rads plus an additional 33%. You also need to make sure that the gas line is adequately sized to handle the additional load of the boiler. Big question is, why did the boiler crack? Was the excessive addition of ne water? Did the boiler dry fire. Etc. You dont want a repeat performance with the new boiler. Might be worthwhile to contact Crown.
@ March 5, 2014 12:50 PM in Steam boiler banging, hissing and water noiseThe trol itself might be bad. You would need to add a 0-3 or 0-5 pressure gauge to know for sure. Probably not a coincidence that there is banging and a leaking pressure relief valve. Both are symptoms of high pressure. You can get Gorton #2 air vents at pexsupply.com. Where are you located?
@ March 5, 2014 10:43 AM in Steam boiler banging, hissing and water noiseThe near boiler piping is pretty bad. You don't have an effective header. This can lead to water being carried into the system which will then result in water hammer.
That being said, you need to figure out what changed. Why was there no hammer until now and why are you currently having water hammer?
The first thing that I would check would be the water quality. Steam boilers will all gradually accumulate sludge in the the boiler. That can lead to surging which in turn will shoot water out into the system. With the current piping, you already have two strikes against you. Try flushing out the boiler a few times and see what happens.
Check your main vents. If your main vents used to work properly but now dont open properly then the steam be slower then it was previously. The result will be more condensate and more water hammer.
Check the pressuretrol pigtail. If the pigtail is clogged then the pressuretrol will be useless. The result will be high pressure,slow condensate return,water in the mains and water hammer.
Setbacks. Did you recently set your thermostat for night setbacks? Setbacks can result in water hammer due to the long run times and colder pipes. Result again will be too much water and water hammer.
Clogged returns. It is possible that the returns have clogged. Result will be water building up in the main and water hammer.
@ February 12, 2014 1:44 PM in Radiators Hissing and steaming after insulation appliedAn oversized boiler can lead to hissing sounds. It is possible that your boiler is oversized.When you add insulation to pipes, in essence the boiler is becoming even more oversized. Just a guess.
@ January 15, 2014 3:51 PM in Howling Wind!Thermostat location will be a major issue under the current setup. What you might want to consider is moving the thermostat to the second floor and installing TRVs on the first floor radiators to prevent overheating. Not sure if that will eliminate howing but should help balance the temps.
When you have the ghost heating, are the first floor radiators warmer then the second floor radiators?
@ January 15, 2014 2:45 PM in Howling Wind!1. Make sure that the radiator is pitched BUT not over pitched.
2. Make sure radiator valve is fully open.
3.Avoid big setbacks.
4. Try removing radiator air vent and see if noise stops. DO NOT stand too close to radiator. Steam can burn skin.
There are some other things you can try. Start with these and see what happens.
@ January 14, 2014 8:00 PM in Copper Pres Fittings Brand (Viega vs Nibco vs Cello)Pexsupply has just about everything. There were certain fittings they didn't carry. Shot them an email and now they carry them. What a pleasure!
@ January 6, 2014 9:31 AM in Steam Boiler Leak / Crack - Replacement Really Needed?!?I wouldnt touch a Utica with a ten foot pole. They are side outlet boilers. Very problematic for steam. Might be good idea to get a second pair of eyes on this system. A leak anywhere in the system can cause the boiler to run out of water. Might not be the boiler. Have the tenant fill the boiler above the top and see if any water ends up on the floor.
@ January 6, 2014 9:23 AM in radiator enclosers/efficencyRadiator enclosures will either increase or decrease the amount of heat that ends up in the room Depends on design. A poorly designed enclose can trap the heat in the enclosure. Not very efficient to pay all that money to heat the inside of a box.
@ January 3, 2014 3:09 PM in 66 degrees on first floor, 78 on second - how to adjust?Cant say that I agree with that approach. Radiator air vents should be sized based on the amount of air in each radiator. The only difference between the first floor and second fr is approx 10 feet of 1" or 1 1/4" pipe. The extra pipe does not contain that much air.
If the mains are not properly vented then you could end up like a dog chasing his tail. The radiator enclosure thing is serious. Could make world of a difference in heat output. Could be in the 50% range
@ January 3, 2014 10:06 AM in boiler replacement: question for one-man shopsI have a scrap company that I deal with. Old boiler normally goes out for free and new one they will bring down for reasonable price. Where are you located?
@ January 3, 2014 9:33 AM in 66 degrees on first floor, 78 on second - how to adjust?First thing to check is if the radiators. If all the radiators are getting hot at relatively the same time,then the underlying problem is probably not in the heating system(unless some switched radiators over the years).
If you determine that the radiators are not heating evenly then you would need to do some troubleshooting. Do you have properly sized and functioning vents on the mains? Do you have properly sized radiator air vents? Do you have the same type of radiator covers/enclosures on all of the radiators? Are all of the supply valves open? There are other things to check but I would start with these.
@ December 17, 2013 11:38 PM in Boiler blues in NYCAlso, lets try to be a little bit more accurate. I did give you an estimate and offer to come down and rectify the problems. We don't discuss pricing. However, the price that I gave you was very much in line with what true steam professionals charge. To say that I was just playing phone tag with you is grossly inaccurate.
@ December 17, 2013 11:26 PM in Boiler blues in NYCLets look at this narrative from my perspective. I get a text from an anonymous person(meaning someone is is unfamiliar to me and did not come to me via recommendation from someone I know). As most of us professionals know, these types of contacts more often than not turn into dead ends. In addition, most heating professionals(myself included) are booked solid with actual paying customers and do not have time to chase after likely dead ends. At no time did I make any commitment to this poster. Rather, I took a few minutes of my precious time and advised the customer as best I could. This was time that could have been spent with family or work or personal matters. I understand that you are frustrated that your original installer took you for a ride. Please do not take it out on me. I am in no way obligated to be your savior. Please be grateful for the free advice that I gave you. Hang everything out on the wall and you will see that what I told you was perfectly accurate. Your near boiler is rotten. There is no effective header (equalizer on wrong side of header) and the near boiler piping is reduced and undersized.
@ December 17, 2013 8:58 PM in One Pipe system - water hammer/lots of water from ventsJust saw other post. Other posters are right on. Never going to work correctly with current near boiler piping. New heating contractor needed!
@ December 17, 2013 8:55 PM in One Pipe system - water hammer/lots of water from ventsForgot to mention that you should check water level in glass. Shouldn't be more then 1/2-2/3 full.
@ December 17, 2013 8:52 PM in One Pipe system - water hammer/lots of water from vents1. Poor boiler piping
2. Dirty boiler water
3. High boiler pressure
4. Clogged return piping
5. Sag in main steam line
6. Oversized boiler
7. Partially closed/blocked radiator valve
8. Undersized radiator shutoff valve
9. Poor piping from steam main to radiator.
Just to name a few
@ December 17, 2013 2:37 PM in Valve LeakingLamp wick works very well fot this application. I've done the lamp wick trick more times then I can remember with a near perfect success rate.
@ December 16, 2013 11:42 PM in Maximizing recessed radiatorsThank you steamhead for a most interesting and informative read. Bottom line is that there should be an opening at the bottom and an opening at the top. This will maximize the chimney effect. What gauge sheet metal is recommended for inside of wall cavity? For that matter, is sheet metal the material of choice to enclose the cavity or can other materials be used? I am assuming that the cavity should be enclosed by materials that reflect hot air and don't absorb the hot air. Also, does it make a difference if the roof of the wall cavity is flat or sloped?
Thanks again for all the info and expertise.
@ December 15, 2013 10:48 PM in Maximizing recessed radiatorsI just took another look at the section in EDR that deals with radiator enclosures. I didn't find anything exactly like what I was describing. However,it would seed better to have something in front with an opening at top and bottom rather then an opining in front. Please correct me if I am wrong. Thank you.
@ December 15, 2013 10:38 PM in Maximizing recessed radiatorsGood evening to all. I have a customer with a bunch of radiators similar to the convector type radiators found toward the back of EDR. Basically small radiators not much larger then modern day baseboard. Currently the radiators are enclosed on all six sides, with a small slit at the bottom of the front part of the enclosure and a similar slit at the top. All six sides of the radiators are covered with some sort of sheet metal. Will this type of enclosure maximize the heat output of the radiator or would he be better off with front cover removed entirely?
P.S. Part of the front of the enclosure will definitely need to be removed. Currently,the air vents and shutoff valves are inaccessible.