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russiand

russiand

Joined on October 10, 2009

Last Post on May 19, 2014

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I only saw a max

@ May 19, 2014 12:56 PM in Mitsu Mr. Slim line set length question

That's just the thing I didn't see a minimum...

Mitsu Mr. Slim line set length question

@ May 19, 2014 10:32 AM in Mitsu Mr. Slim line set length question

For a very short line set run, do I subtract some charge out or leave it at factory fill. The manual one sites adding for longer run. This is a single head H2i type unit, and the line set is going to work out to be under 10ft, something like 6.
Thanks

My heart goes out to you

@ January 30, 2014 1:53 PM in Long detailed help needed with air pockets hydronic 3 zone Burnham oil boiler, 3 Taco circulators, baseboard fin registers no air valves

My god, I wish you all the luck the in the world. As far as your boiler goes, it doesn't look that bad, it's a Burnham RSA. Givent that it's a low end oil boiler, that is made from steel. The piping looks more or less ok to me. What I am worried about is that you have a break in the piping upstairs. From your description about the water pouring out of the soffit etc, its likely that you have a broken pipe and continuing to add water to the system will flood the house etc. I HIGHLY recommend getting a pro in there before you cause further damage to the house. That said, this system should not require constant purging and in fact it should not be loosing any water at all. From the pictures it looks like either of the two ball valves below the purge should work. Your pressure looks low to me for temperature that is on the gauge. At that temp your temp would be close to ~18-20 PSI. The theory is to close off all the zones except for the one you are purging and purge one at a time. All of that said I wouldn't want you doing this yourself, I think you have bigger issues in that system right now. Oh my...

I am not a pro.

@ January 13, 2014 1:04 PM in help upgrading hydronic system

Your boiler is most likey oversized. I am using RSA 85 downfired to .65 nozzle to heat a 2228 sq ft. house. While that boiler is not efficient, upgrading I think is not going to be the best approach. I would wait until it breaks to upgrade. State of the art as far as I know are going to be your 3 pass systems, Buderus, MPO (like you mentioned), Biasi, etc. Using outdoor reset and other strategies which some of the controls now emply, should help further with efficiency. As far as your piping arrangement, I would not change it if it works effectively now. When you are upgrading to the new boiler is when I would do a repipe and move the expansion tank, etc to a more desirable position. The circulator pump for the indirect tank most likely has a flow check valve that prevents flow through it when the main circulator is running.

Cold start

@ January 11, 2014 7:02 PM in cold start or maintain temp?

Those are designed to run cold, turn off the low limit and save fuel.

Copper

@ January 10, 2014 5:22 PM in Are Taco ZoneSentry valves noisy?

Copper all throughout, the house is from '76. With pex I think it would be much quiter. Again, it is not that loud the house has to be quiet for you to actually hear it.

I can definitely hear it when the house is queit

@ January 9, 2014 5:01 PM in Are Taco ZoneSentry valves noisy?

I use one on my DHW indirect tank and conventional golden headed tacos on my space heating zones. At night when it's quiet I can definitely hear it close in the basement, from my 2nd story bedroom. I think the piping carries that noise pretty good. 

Very good point, much info is missing.

@ January 7, 2014 10:42 AM in Cold Water coming out instead of Hot Water..When I need a hot shower...HELP

Very true too much info is missing. One would have to figure out if the coil is plugged up with deposits, etc and is no longer effectively heating up water. However I have seen quite a few cases where the cheap Watts 70A's fail after just a few years. My own house had a coil when I first moved in, the mixing valve was so corroded in place you coulnd' turn the knob on top. Replacing the valve fixed the problem for the short term, still the hot water supply was not great at all. Ulitimately I went to an indirect tank anyways...

If you are careful

@ January 7, 2014 10:27 AM in Oil tank gauge replace

The gauge is usually part of the vent pipe or is in the middle tapping. As long as the whistle works and you make a reasonably good connection, you should be ok. It's a simple unscrew the old, screw back the new type job. If your tank is inside your and is in the vent you may have to start from the outside and unscrew all the pipe in reverse order. Ideally you can get the same exact size gauge and reuse all the old pipe. If not you may have to get some that fits the new config. But like others said if not sure might want to leave to pros...

Most likely the mixing valve

@ January 6, 2014 1:23 PM in Cold Water coming out instead of Hot Water..When I need a hot shower...HELP

All of these types of tankless coil setups are plumbed with the tempering or mixing valve most likely like this. http://seek.autodesk.com/product/latest/agg/watts/1/Watts/717
This type of valve usually fails within 5 years. There is a repair kit for it, but its frequently easier to replace with a better valve. Have a professional oil guy or plumber repair or replace the valve.  Also my advise is to look into upgrading to an indirect tank, as coil is the most expensive and least efficient way to get hot water these days.

Hmm

@ April 17, 2013 4:22 PM in Sandy still haunts my home!

I understand your frustration, didn't folks suggest some names and phone numbers of compentent heating contractors in NY? There is no doubt that if it worked before it can be made to work again, and most likely the issue is something simple that does not require breaking down of walls, etc.  There is only a handful of things this can be and I am sure it will be figured out.

Wow

@ April 17, 2013 3:03 PM in Sandy still haunts my home!

I wouldn't let that person back into your house if I were you. I think you are better off letting the folks on this site guide you through troubleshooting your issues. Luckily we are getting into the warm days so you'll have plenty of time to figure this out before the next season. I would be interested in hearing what sort of "switches" in walls he was referring to..

Hmm

@ March 27, 2013 3:20 PM in Sandy still haunts my home!

The 3 speed one is an IFC the black one we don't know

There are arrows there both pointing down

@ March 27, 2013 1:36 PM in Sandy still haunts my home!

So circs themselves are oriented correctly, although not ideally since they are on the return vs the preffered pumping away on the supply location. The black pump and I am assuming that it's a Taco 007 is a style of pump that is usually included with a packaged boiler. I am assuming they re-used that one from your original boiler. The other pump that is green is a 3 speed one. If it is indeed a pump issue, you could install the green one in place of the black one and test it on HI.

You could try swapping the pumps

@ March 27, 2013 1:21 PM in Sandy still haunts my home!

That 007 should be enough to serve upstairs. Most likely you had 2 007s to begin with. But given that you have a 3 speed (running on LOW currently) sitting right there, you could swap it in place of the black 007 and run on HI just to see if it fixes things. Again, I think this is reaching a little since typically a single 007 would be able to handle both upstairs and down, no prob.

gate valves aboves circs open all the way?

@ March 27, 2013 10:57 AM in Sandy still haunts my home!

I know it sounds silly, but that has happened to me. Are they open all the way?

Hmm

@ March 27, 2013 10:54 AM in Sandy still haunts my home!

They certainly stuck those pumps on the return. Does the 3 speed pump serve the poorly heating zone or does the black one? Looks like they put a new 3 speed taco and recycled the old 007. It's gotta be either the reversal of the supply/return in the piping, a bad pump, or an air pocket that they failed to dislodge.

That is an excellent point.

@ March 27, 2013 10:43 AM in Customers are confused when it comes to gas conversions...

I think home heating oil will certainly continue to exist for some time, for sure. Especially in rural areas. However given its ridiculous and I mean ridiculous price, most folks will be forced to look for supplemental heat sources or alternatives.  Given the current price trend for heating oil, it can't survive long term, is all.   

Oil is just too expensive

@ March 27, 2013 9:48 AM in Customers are confused when it comes to gas conversions...

Oil has gotten way too expensive. Its bugs me to no end that a few houses down the street they pay half of what I pay to heat my house, if not less. The current prices per gallon are simply crazy. There is no question that the payback is quite quick right now given how expensive the oil is. If gas is on the street and you are burning oil, you are throwing money away. Gas will go up, but oil will too. I would gamble on gas staying cheaper than oil for foreseeable future.  I hope that local municipalities get involved and have gas companies bring natural gas to more and more homes. Home heating oil is dying a slow but certain death.  If it were cheap like before, I wouldn't have anything against it at all. But boy at these prices people will and should run away from it.

A cap is on there now

@ January 23, 2013 9:44 PM in Burnham Alliance SL 35 Drain leak

Unfortunately it strarted to leak through the packing nut as well. The person who came up with a plastic drain on a not so cheap tank ..... Thanks, I'll drain it and put a ball type drain.

Burnham Alliance SL 35 Drain leak

@ January 23, 2013 9:21 PM in Burnham Alliance SL 35 Drain leak

Just as I suspected that it would the flimsy plastic drain on the Burnam Alliance Sl a rebaged Vaughn Top performer has started to leak. Can I unscrew it and replace with a normal drain. I cant figure out if i can remove it and its just a normal npt thread in the tank shell itself. Thanks in advance!

I've had goo luck with Glentronics pumps

@ December 27, 2012 11:14 AM in Sump pump recommendations

http://www.proseriespumps.com/proseries/
The float I have is on a wire and mounts to the discharge pvc line with  a clamp. Also has a little alarm box that sounds if the float( there are two in the cage) sticks or if the pump fails to remove water within allowed period. The mounting scheme allows for easy adjustment of the float level. I have the 1/2 hp one. Have had it for 5 years and so far no problems. Glentronics make a wide range of pumps all are good. The ProSeries line seems to have the best price/performace bang. Many online places have them. My 2 cents.
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