Heating Help

Here ya go.

@ December 3, 2009 7:58 AM in Conflict over Heat source.

Ok folks, I'm sticking to my guns and saying its a small electric boiler or nothin! Here's the revised drawing. Thanks for everyone's input!
....I might have to start posting all my drawings on here!...

Hmmm,

@ December 3, 2009 6:51 AM in Conflict over Heat source.

That's a good thought Eric, but if they won't swing for the price of a small electric boiler I doubt they'll go for the mixing block.

Just a thought,

@ December 3, 2009 6:44 AM in add-on wood boiler piping

you fellas might also keep in mind that many, if not most  wood boilers are open systems, so when connecting to existing traditional closed loop hydronic system, you will need to sperate the wood boiler by way of a heat exchanger or confirm that there are no ferrous components in the existing system.

Good thinking...

@ December 1, 2009 10:50 AM in Radiant question

Yep, that's good thinking Alan. I wouldn't have normally considered that, but it certainly sounds like a good option. I may well be wrong here, but I would still be worried about high floor temperatures if the zone is not independently operated. Then again, I guess if the floor loop comes off the return of a higher temperature zone, you might be dealing with about 160deg....well, just thinking out loud here...good suggestions though.

yep!

@ December 1, 2009 7:06 AM in Conflict over Heat source.

Good points! I appreciate the feed back. I certainly did forget to add the mixing to the system to obtain proper loop temperatures...guess that's what happens when you re-edit an old drawing from other jobs! 
To people who do this enough, it is clear that using a residential domestic water heater is not the way to go. The trouble for me was in explaining just why.
Thanks again for everyone's input!

Probably...

@ December 1, 2009 6:55 AM in Radiant question

The addition of radiant is likely not an issue, so long as you boiler has extra capacity to add a heating zone to it. running two runs of tubing on 8in centers through each joist bay in aluminum transfer plates is probably best. it would be critical to insulate the joist bays under the tubing. Currently your boiler probably sends 180deg water out to the radiators, this is too hot for a sub-floor radiant application. You would probably need in the area of 125-150deg supply water. There would need to be an addition of several new control components: t-stat, mixing valve or injection mixing set-up, pump/valve relays.
Yes it probably can be done, and probably without too much trouble, but it definitely needs the insight of professional who will do it right the first time. An improperly designed system could lead to damaged floors, damaged boiler, or at the least a system that doesn't work.

Plastic?

@ November 30, 2009 1:01 PM in Green pre heater?

I assume that you would have to install these devices on cast iron drain lines...I can't imagine getting all that much heat through a PVC pipe..???

missing attachment....

@ November 30, 2009 8:23 AM in Conflict over Heat source.

seem to be having trouble attaching my drawing!!!

Conflict over Heat source.

@ November 30, 2009 8:19 AM in Conflict over Heat source.

I have sized and designed a small radiant renovation for a home owner who is set on using his domestic water heater as the heat source for the system. The heating load is approximately 15,000 BTU/h and total system flow would be 3.5 GPM. What kind of performance\issues can I expect out of using a standard 40gal/40,000 BTU/h gas fired water heater paired with a brazed plate heat exchanger...anything I should look out for?
I have attached a drawing of my proposed system.
Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

Thanks

@ November 18, 2009 10:13 AM in Gil's Wheel

Thanks for the help everyone! sounds like a man I would have like to have known.

Gil's Wheel

@ November 16, 2009 2:17 PM in Gil's Wheel

I tried to follow a link off of the Healthy Heating website to read the story of Gil's wheel and the Carlson-Holohan Industry Award of Excellence, but the link was dead. Does anyone (Mr. Holohan) know where I can find that now?
Thanks!

Mystery Hoffman Valve

@ October 29, 2009 1:02 PM in Mystery Hoffman Valve

I have a Hoffman valve that my rep doesn't seem to be able to help me with. The valve says that it is a No. 11 Vacuum valve. I figure this is either a vacuum breaker or a main vent on a vacuum steam system. I know that this is on a  low pressure steam system, but I wasn't on site to see where it was installed. Can anyone confirm or clarify?

Insulation

@ October 28, 2009 9:39 AM in 1864 3 story house heating update

yep, seeing a picture of that contraption would be great. Also, If it hasn't already been done...improved insulation and sealing any spots of outside air infiltration could make a significant difference

Low return water temps?

@ October 28, 2009 6:54 AM in Rust in five year old boiler

Maybe low return water temperature, 140 deg or less, causing condensattion and therefore a rusted section assembly.