Heating Help

Outdoor reset on old hydronic system

@ February 15, 2013 9:57 AM in Outdoor reset on old hydronic system

I am looking to improve the comfort & efficiency of an old radiator system with a condensing boiler. I would like to try full outdoor temperature reset, possibly with continuous circulation. Can anyone recommend a controls setup?

Just a One-Pipe

@ February 8, 2013 11:59 AM in Steam heat aquastat

That sounds more logical than what I'm seeing.  This is just a one-pipe gravity-return system, with the aquastat performing the function of a thermostat.  It's a Chicago thing--I don't understand.

Steam heat aquastat

@ February 7, 2013 8:00 AM in Steam heat aquastat

For the second time I have seen a steam boiler in an apartment building controlled with an aquastat strapped on to a return near the boiler.  Strikes me as kinda rube goldberg, but the landlord doesn't want a thermostat.  Can anyone recommend a temperature setting?

Been there, done that

@ January 30, 2013 7:15 PM in Converting steam boiler to baseboard boiler

I once did that on a 2-story home.  Sized the baseboard properly, zoned each floor, added an indirect water heater and converted nthe boiler.  Did it back in 1998 and the old boiler is still kicking.  Not as efficient as a condensing boiler, but a heck of a lot less maintenance-intensive.

Nice ice

@ January 28, 2013 6:27 PM in Chimney Condensation

Can you tell if the liner is icing?  As long as it's venting OK, a little ice on the bricks is probably little more than a nuisance, and might be the price of efficiency.  If Bacharach is good and there's no cracked section, a raised flue temp might not be worth the extra fuel.

probably still flooding

@ January 28, 2013 4:35 PM in System Flooding

Thanks, but get this--no coil AND no "returns."  System is just one 2" pipe (mostly insulated) with counterflow return through top of boiler.  Main pitch looks good ( I know, I know, but no line level!) Since there are no drips there is no equalizer or Hartford loop, of course.  I never saw the old boiler but I worry about wet steam.

System Flooding

@ January 28, 2013 4:00 PM in System Flooding

    This is a new boiler on a really simple one-pipe system.  When I first arrived the system was flooded despite the customer having drained it down earlier that day.  I drained it then fired it up.  Within a few minutes it went off on low water then filled, going through this process 2 more times within a half hour.  Holding up condensate!  I double-checked to make sure the feeder wasn't creeping (it wasn't).  I skimmed it then cleaned it with Dry Steam, flushing out lots of goo.  Found the pigtail plugged: cleaned it out.  As I was about to leave I checked the sight glass--it was right down to the bottom, but the boiler hadn't filled yet. Well, it took over a week but the dang thing flooded again all right.  When I drained it there was still a bunch of crud.  I will probably try cleaning again, but I would greatly appreciate any suggestions.

Flow problem with old hot water system

@ December 19, 2012 7:43 PM in Flow problem with old hot water system

Hello wetheads!  I am dealing with a gravity system with a newer boiler and a 007 pump.  In the front of a small 3-story building there are 3 1st-floor radiators and 1 2nd-floor radiator which are cold.  In between the problem children are rads connected to the same main which are hot.  I've bled the radiators 'til I'm blue and the radiators get warm, but I get no air, so it ain't an air problem!  I found the aquastat cranked to 210, so I turned it down to 180.  Just for fun ( I'm a fun-loving guy), I wired the pump to run continuously.  It's too soon to know the results, but I've now inherited the baby along with the bathwater.  Any input or suggestions would be enormously appreciated.  Thanks, and....help!!!

Crown

@ March 29, 2011 5:12 PM in boiler change

Take a look at the Crown Scotch Marine.  Good boiler, efficient, maintenance-friendly.

Crown

@ March 29, 2011 5:12 PM in boiler change

Take a look at the Crown Scotch Marine.  Good boiler, efficient, maintenance-friendly.

Beware!

@ March 24, 2011 4:12 PM in New House, Many Questions

Remember that it is unlikely that you will be able to hook up radiators in series--the first ones in line will "steal" BTU's from the radiators further down the line. The existing cellar loops may even use monoflo tees to ensure enough feed while allowing flow to more distant radiators.  Zoning sounds like a terrific idea (and it is), but you will probably have to keep the2-pipe system.  Pipe size can be reduced.  Consider adding domestic hot water.  And at all costs--have fun!

Thanks!

@ March 24, 2011 2:23 PM in Triangle Tube boilers

Thanks everybody!  I am an import to the western suburbs of Chicago, originally from Binghamton NY.  Not enough wet heat out here.

Old Pipes? OK!

@ March 23, 2011 5:00 PM in Hydronic heating system - how long will the pipes last?

Given the fact that this is a closed system (even a bladder tank, God bless!), and is also probably almost exclusively iron, I'll bet the integrity of the system is better than you're giving it credit for--unless there is evidence of long-standing leaking which would give our arch-enemy, Air, opportunity to invade your system.  If you were to drain it and slice a pipe, you would find it to be delightfully rust free.  How cool is that?  Cast-iron radiators will give you wonderful heat.  I hate to see you rip all that good stuff out and replace it with a system of lesser comfort or spend a small fortune on components which would merely mimic the groovy stuff you've already got. To be sure, the panels are flatter and less obtrusive.  Finally, the electric boiler would give you the opportunity to utilize outdoor temperature reset which would give you consistant & even heat, even on those days when you re not freezing your buttocks off in the Great White North!

Triangle Tube boilers

@ March 23, 2011 2:56 PM in Triangle Tube boilers

Hello fellow Wetheads!  My company is considering using Triangle Tube equipment for our condensing boiler needs.  I am not familiar with the stuff and I was hoping to get feedback from professionals regarding its effectiveness and reliability.  Thanx!

Hot water forced air

@ March 16, 2011 4:31 PM in hot water plenum loop in forced air furnace

This is actually a fairly common application.  You will need a properly-sized coil with 140* water run through it. Proper control setup and sheet metal work demands a reputable contractor. 

Steam bubbles

@ March 4, 2010 11:07 PM in pipe shaking

Is it a low-mass boiler? If flow is insufficient through the boiler, you will get flashes of steam. Did this develop right after the installation, or after some time elapsed? If recent, you may have pump problems. You might have to install a bypass. Other than steam, the only other cause for this that I have seen is liming at the bottom of the boiler due to an influx of fresh water.

YES!!

@ March 4, 2010 10:38 PM in How to fix a drip a day.

The old-timers called it "saltbagging." They would empty a teabag, fill it with salt and stick it on the leak. You get a layer of corrosion on the outside like a scab. Hate to admit it, but I have stopped several leaks like this, including an expansion tank. But the right way is to resolder the dam thing. You don't have to do anything special about the antifreeze.

Sensible man...

@ February 25, 2010 12:56 AM in Unconventional Air Scoop Location

I hadn't heard about the 1 ft rule.....keep taking them off the return forever.

Or....

@ February 24, 2010 1:45 AM in why I hesitate to make "temporary" repairs

Or, more properly, the Dead Men would be proud of you!

oh heeell....

@ February 24, 2010 1:39 AM in why I hesitate to make "temporary" repairs

Oh, I have worked in the boonies among the complete absence of greenbacks. I realize that you have sacrificed your profit motive, but thanks to your ingenuity, these people have had heat for years..That,sir, is what makes America beautiful!

Freakin air

@ February 24, 2010 1:30 AM in Unconventional Air Scoop Location

In the old days, it was common to put a float-vent at the lowest return elbow. Gnarph! I agree with Mark Eatherton: best to use a regular old air scoop, with the pump downstream, pumping away!

Separator there can suck in air!

@ February 23, 2010 6:28 PM in Unconventional Air Scoop Location

I have seen twice when float-vents located just upstream from pumps actually pulled air in when the system was under low pressure due to plugged reducing valve. Maybe a kind of venturi effect..