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Vinny_NYH

Vinny_NYH

Joined on November 12, 2009

Last Post on March 20, 2013

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Recent Posts

NYC Oil Burner License

@ March 20, 2013 10:11 PM in NYC Oil Burner License

Hello,
I am an experienced oil burner mechanic and I hold the NYC Class B Oil Burner Installer License. Anyone who needs the use of the NYC oil burner license to file Annual Boiler Inspections, new oil boiler / burner installations or oil tanks, feel free to give me a call. My rates are very competitive.
Of course, this is for NYC area only.
Thank You!
Vince
631-236-7344

Thin Tube

@ December 28, 2011 6:12 PM in Kohler Steam Radiators

The Kohler radiation that I have is thin tube about 19" high. It is the same radiation that is located in the Kohler brochure that is on the Heating Help website. The brochure is from the 1940s or 1950s.

Kohler Steam Radiators

@ December 28, 2011 7:36 AM in Kohler Steam Radiators

Hello,
I have old Kohler radiators in my house. I am trying to compute the total sq. ft of steam. Does anyone know where I could find rating charts on Kohler radiators circa 1940. The only thing I could find on this site is an old Kohler brochure which does show the radiators but there are no rating charts. Thanks for your help.

Oil Boiler Rebates

@ March 7, 2011 7:12 AM in Oil Boiler Rebates

I was just a ConEd / Energy Affordability Association meeting in NYC. They are offering rebates on new gas boilers installed with an efficiency over 80%. The rebates max out at $2,500. Not bad.

Does anyone know about any rebates for newly installed oil boilers?

Steam Traps

@ February 4, 2011 6:53 AM in Steam Traps

Thanks for your reply.

The new boiler was installed on cinderblocks which brought the A dimension to about 24 inches.

The original problem was water hammer in the mains. I believe the real problem here besides the A dimension was that the return lines and drip legs were undersized. Condensate would back up the drip legs and enter the mains causing water hammer. I also believe that is why the condensate was backing up and spitting out of the air vents. By raising the air vents about 2 feet, I bought myself a small reservoir of space to store the extra condensate and I gave the air vents a chance to break the vacuum.

Someone told me that the condensate could never back up higher than the traps. Do you know if this is true?  If it is true, that would explain why the condensate stopped spitting out of the vents when I lifted them vents 2 feet higher than the traps.

Steam Traps

@ February 3, 2011 6:59 AM in Steam Traps

There is this job. It is a one-pipe steam system. We installed a new boiler and lost our A dimension. So we installed a condensate tank with traps at the end of the main and at every drip. We installed air vents on the outlet side of each trap. All of the traps and air vents are about 25 inches above the boiler's water line.

When we started it up, condensate was stacking in the returns. It was not flowing to the condensate tank fast enough. The condensate would build and build until water started squirting out of every air vent. The air vents were not breaking the vacuum quick enough. So, I raised each air vent about 2 feet above the outlet of the traps. Presto. This solved everything.

I thought that the return was open to the atmosphere so the highest the condensate would get would be the inlet to the tank. And when the tank got full it would pump the water into the boiler. Does anyone know why the air vents needed to be raised in order to break the vacuum?

Convert Steam To Vapor

@ January 26, 2011 6:58 AM in Convert Steam To Vapor

Hello everyone,

I need your advice. I am trying to figure out if it is possible or practical to convert all of the one pipe and two pipe steam systems that my company services into vapor system. I would like these buildings which are running on say 2 lbs of pressure to heat the entire building on 4 - 8 ounces. Imagine the fuel savings if this was possible not to mention the business opportunity.

 I know this is a challenge since steam systems were designed to run on 1-1/2 to 2 lbs and vapor parts are hard to come by but if we put our heads together we can do this. We all stand to benefit. All information will be kept public on this site.

Thanks,
Vinny

Vacuum Gauges

@ July 7, 2010 9:09 AM in Vacuum Gauges

I use liquid filled vacuum gauges to test oil lines. Recently, I noticed that all of my vac gauges that I store in my van were reading about 3" of vacuum straight out of the box. Is this caused by the severe hot and humid weather we have been having or is it just a coincidence that all 4 of my vac gauges in my van were defective?

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

@ June 2, 2010 7:15 AM in Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Yesterday, I was in a boiler room which had about 150 PPM CO. I was exposed to it for about 2 hours until I realized that something was wrong because I had headaches and dizziness. A full day later, I still have a slight headache. The headaches become more severe when I exert myself.

Any doctors in the house who could give advice?

T-Y Flue Pipe

@ May 20, 2010 4:40 PM in T-Y Flue Pipe

Does anyone know the formula for sizing flue pipe? I know that you can never reduce the flue size. But if you have more than 1 piece of equipment feeding into a single chimney, what is the formula for the chimney size? OR If you have 2 pieces of equipment feeding into a T-Y Flue piece, what size T-Y should I use?

Thanks

BRONZE vs STAINLESS STEEL

@ February 15, 2010 8:36 AM in BRONZE vs STAINLESS STEEL

My supplier started giving me stainless steel circulators. He told me they are the same as bronze circulators. I suspect this is not true. For domestic water, can I use a stainless steel circulator?

U - Tube Manometer

@ February 8, 2010 8:01 AM in U - Tube Manometer

I am looking for a U-Tube manometer. The catch is that I want the simple water tube manometer - not the one with the red or blue or green dye. All you do is put some water in the tube, hook up to the gas line and you get your readings. You never have to worry about dye leaking out or anything like that.

 I can't find it anywhere. Anyone know where I can find one or is anyone interested in making a sale to me?

Haunted

@ January 30, 2010 10:26 AM in Haunted oil burner

Sometimes the motor can have a dead spot and it will cause the burner to go into safety at erratic times. Also check the oil lines. Are they overhead? If they are overhead, their could be a slight air leak that could cause the burner to lose its prime.

If that is not the problem, could be a defective relay. What type of relay is on this burner?

No literature

@ January 29, 2010 5:14 PM in Steam Powered Rotary Cooker

Unfortunately, there is no manual or rating plate. All I know is that I need 400 lbs/hr at 10 PSI and that is according to the owner of the building.

Steam Powered Rotary Cooker

@ January 29, 2010 3:09 PM in Steam Powered Rotary Cooker

Hello Dan,

I have a job that we are practically designing from scratch. We have some questions that I hope you can answer. Any help is appreciated.

I have a customer that has a commercial steam powered rotary cooker. It needs to be supplied with 400 lbs/hr of steam at a pressure of 10 - 12 PSI. The cooker has already been installed at ground level.  (Digging a pit is not an option here.) We would have to run a riser up about 20 feet to the ceiling, across about 100 feet and DOWN 20 feet to the cooker. After the cooker would be a trap, condensate tank and check valve. The owner does not want to dig up his floor or run pipe along his floor so he wants us to run the return lines next to the supply main. So we would have to bring the return lines UP 20 feet to the ceiling, across 100 feet and back down to the boiler return tapping.

Using the charts supplied in the Art of Steam Heating book, I can figure out the pressure drop. That's where the questions begin:
1) Can I supply steam to a unit that is below the normal water line?
2) I know I can run steam vertically and horizontally but can I pipe so that the steam runs downward?
3) Can I bring the return lines up to the ceiling? and would the condensate tank be able to pump the condensate up to the ceiling and back to the boiler?
4) Where should I install the main vent? I was thinking directly after the cooker so that the steam rushes to the cooker.
5) Would we need a F & T trap or regular steam trap.
6) Is it okay to operate a 15 lb maximum low pressure boiler with an operating pressure control set at Cut-In 9 lbs and Cut-Out 11 lbs.
7) What boiler should I select? How do you convert pounds per hour into BTU?
8) How much should we pitch the steam main measured in inch per feet?

I attached a picture of the unit.

Again, any help is greatly appreciated.

Vincent
NY Heating

Getting closer

@ January 22, 2010 4:21 PM in Clear Glass Steam Header

Thanks for everybody's help. I was looking into Pyrex and after being rerouted a few times I ended up talking to Angelique Scholl at QVF Process Systems. They are located in New Jersey. Actually as I type, she is in the process of designing a glass header for us using a Peerless Ect-04. I am going to see what she comes up with before I contact anyone else.

Clear Glass Steam Header

@ January 22, 2010 12:39 PM in Clear Glass Steam Header

Hello all,
I was at Dan Holohan's steam seminar in New York City and he showed us pictures of a Weil McLain boiler with a clear glass header. We were able to fire the burner and see the affects of wet steam and dry steam inside the header. I would like to build something exactly like the one in the picture.
Can anyone direct me how to find the material to do this? What type of material? etc...

Thanks,
Vinny