Joined on December 16, 2009
Last Post on July 22, 2014
@ June 16, 2011 9:32 PM in recirculating hot water?where does the ideas like this come from.my god out of ignorance and unwilligness to learn my boss would throw it at me.but that is why we come here,to learn from the best,by the way im looking forward to taking dans class in hydronics in ny soon,maybe i will mention the nickel trick to him see what he says
@ June 16, 2011 9:28 PM in recirculating hot water?i just threw that in as in my system at home which is getting ripped out soon the circ continuosly runs eventhough there is an aquastat on storage tank.im not familiar with oil systems .hot water comes out of coil i and circ from what i see circulates from tank to coil.when i open a faucet upstairs i wait for hot water.i just added that as an example of continuosly running pumps sorry for the confusion.it is probably not wired right or something as there is a schematic which installer didnt follow,but as i said it is coming out soon.do you like the burnham mpo-iq or would you swutch to gas????????
@ June 16, 2011 8:31 PM in recirculating hot water?in apartment buildings we always use the bronze pump so when tenneant opens faucet they dont have to wait 10 mins for hot water,ok.now in a house i think the code says if furthest fixture is not more than 100 feet away from tank no means of circulation is necessary,that looks like a lot of water to waste to me to wait for hot water.steamhead we sometimes dont use pumps in these situations,he calls it a gravity return,we pipe it into the bottom of water heater with a check valve.is a pump necessary,thanks for your input guys,hope ye are keeping busy
@ June 16, 2011 7:36 PM in recirculating hot water?hi ,we used to use bronze circulating pumps on our return lines on our potable hot water.these pumps would run constantly.lately we havent been using them,our boss thinks they are to expensive.even in my house i have an oil boiler with a storage tank and a 006 bronze pump running constantly betweentank and boiler.i suppose my ? is ,is there a more economical way to circulate your hot water is does it not cost much if pump is running continously.thanks.
@ June 5, 2011 7:16 PM in off topic,?on a shower????????????great link,im going to call them tomorrow and order the parts,many thanks again,i value the time you take out to help us out ,especially on a sunday,goodnight and good luck
@ June 5, 2011 6:18 PM in off topic,?on a shower????????????i hate this old stuff,last time i got it to stop dripping by tightening the handle real tight,this worked temporarily so when the bank came thru to evaluate they saw no drips,the stem i put in might not have been right but i cant get a shutdown to change riser valves on a weekend,which is my only time to do side work.if riser valves held i could bring stem to supply house but it is never easy.the two controls on top are for the shower and two on bottom are for tub.icesailor im sure you have the tricks but i dont and if this doesnt work ball valve is going in shower head for now until i can change unit.again thanks
@ June 5, 2011 6:03 PM in off topic,?on a shower????????????nope it is about 6 inches long.there is a brass barrel,chrome stem which threads into barrel,stem has a washer on the end,then a brass spacer and then the stem packing.i dont know how to put photos up i must ask my wife.on that site it is similar to model number 982818.thanks
@ June 5, 2011 5:57 PM in oil/gasthanks steamhead,that is actually the boiler i was looking at,now you have convinced me on it.thats it im sticking with oil and using that boiler and all the controls you sugges ted.id be lost without this site.im looking forward to seeing dan at his astoria class in hydronics
@ June 5, 2011 11:08 AM in off topic,?on a shower????????????it looks like a kohler model no.k-7032,k-7100,k-7210,the stem goes into a barrel which goes into body.problem is shut of valves dont hold for bathroom so i cant even take out stem to bring it to my supply house.i have a plumbing parts book and that looks like the model number.the new owner is going to do a renovation,but for the bank to approve she must show there is no drips.im thinking about putting a ball valve on the shower head,i understand about the antiscald but for now i need a quick fix.believe me i dont like doing work like this but what can you do.i got another new stem and am going to try one more time,could it be that the shower body might be damaged.again guys thanks for your help.you two whether you know it or not have helped me out before,again thanks for taking the time out
@ June 5, 2011 9:55 AM in off topic,?on a shower????????????a friend has an old kohler shower .two controls for shower and two controls for tub.shower head is dripping.i changed the stem and barrel but still drips.im looking for a shower head that can stop the drip but was told they dont make it.anyone know why.she is moving in 2 weeks and doesnt want to change shower.i cant find a 100% shut of valve for shower head.pulling my hair out on this one.
@ June 5, 2011 7:44 AM in oil/gasmy tank is in good condition.my bill though is 370 per month 12 months a year.im going to call my oil company tomorrow and see what they can do.i just took over the house so with a renovation again i think i can knock that bill down a bit.i have been told on this board to watch out for these incentives the gas company offers,nothing is free.thanks again for your help
@ June 4, 2011 8:57 AM in oil/gasthanks bob,im a plumber in nyc.we do a lot of conversions,but the fact for me is i cant afford a budures etc.i dont have a gas line in the house.my boss is telling me to convert,i think though with proper insulation etc i dont really need it.everyone in ther house is happy with electric stoves and dryer.i was looking at the burnham mpo/iq and she looks like a beauty.i will be running 4 zones and a radiant zone so im not convinced about changing just for the sake of it.thanks again,also i hear there is a lot of hidden fees with the gas company r
@ June 4, 2011 7:12 AM in oil/gashi ,,hope you can help me out,im doing a renovation soon and was thinking about switching over to gas.currently we have an american standard boiler bless her heart she is 50 and still running.my oil bills are quite high but that is down to a leaky house,drafts everywhere and a 89 yr old grandma downstairs.im not opposed to keeping oil,but the gas company is giving some good deals on burnham boilers.im changing the boiler anyway,do you think i should stay with oil or does it pay do go with gas.thanks in advance. y i aconversion soo
@ May 30, 2011 7:58 PM in cracked boiler/ white smokei have a ?regarding the installation of the red boiler you posted.i thought it was necessary to take two headers out of the boiler.i see you capped one outlet.im not knocking your installation just tryingg to learn that is all.
@ May 30, 2011 8:17 AM in Subsidized gas conversion?my current oil bill is 350 p/m plus what ever you go over at the end of the year.last year it was 1,000$.granted house is old with a lot of drafts plus 2 old ladies down stairs who run the heat nearly into the summer months.im doind a renovation,so im really in a quandry.when i seal this house up and insulate it ,i tjhink i can really cut down on that bill.
@ May 30, 2011 7:28 AM in Subsidized gas conversion?i also am facing the same problem and will probably go with gas.but thanks to icesailor i am still trying to master the heatloss process.he told me not to rely on my supply house which take an easy approach to doing this calculation.my boss just goes with what is there already.taco have a great website available here.
@ May 27, 2011 6:08 AM in primary/secondary piping on an atmospheric boilerthanks alan,there will be multiple zones with two of them being radiant.thanks for your help.
@ May 26, 2011 9:05 PM in primary/secondary piping on an atmospheric boilerhi,i just finished one of dans books an primary/secondary piping.if i have a regular atmospheric boiler is it necessary to pipe it this way or should i just come of the boiler with a header and pipe in seperate zones.i have installed many boilers with my company but thru this site i rtealize the heating experts in my company arent as good as they thgink.eg pumps on return etc,basically we do everything opposite to what dan says in his books.
@ May 15, 2011 10:34 PM in 10" plug removalwe did have the same situation a few weeks ago but we were working on a live gas line and could not get a building shut down.our only choice was to get a 3" wrench with a persuader and go for gusto.hit the wrench with a lump hammer a few times to try and shock it.with a persuader it should come out even if it is painted.we would have drilled and cut it but in the circumstance had no choice.let us know how you did tomorrow.sorry i missed the 10" part ours was a 4" plug.steamhead on this one for sure.
@ May 15, 2011 10:24 PM in Burnham Plug and playdo you know when they are coming out.is it before the next heating season?
@ May 14, 2011 8:02 PM in Hot water piping...pressure dropim glad that you shared that experience with us.thankfully in nyc we are not allowed to use pex on potable water YET.outside of the 5 boroughs though you are.with pex they only want homeruns used to each fixture.if pex is done properly and supported properly the job would take as long as a copper job.i once asked a plumber on long island if he charges less for pex piping,his response was we charge more for copper.a friend of mine who was a plumber in poland said that before a house over there got signed of the water had to be up to a certain standard and every year tested when using pex..sorry to go on,but again no fittings on pex or else you get what you experienced.
@ May 14, 2011 5:39 PM in piping of a coil?why is it not necesssary to pipe a water heater this way