Joined on December 16, 2009
Last Post on July 27, 2014
@ May 16, 2014 10:34 PM in Eliminating pipe dope smellCouldn't agree more ,you got to love that smell . Then again that's why herself has me sleeping with the dog downstairs
@ May 16, 2014 10:30 PM in Plumbing Signoff assistance NeededNYC master plumber is a hard one.the ones I know would never cover someone's work but you never know. It's a big ask though in my opinion
@ May 16, 2014 9:24 PM in Steamhead,ChrisI asked you previously about a IN5 install.Here it is,please feel free to critise
@ April 27, 2014 12:15 PM in Problem with new kickspace heaterIf so you will need a monoflow tee under the unit and next tee as harvey said about 8"downstream.Usually works for me,send a pic but the water is definitly staying in larger pipe.Force it in to the toekick.If using the brass momoflo tee use 2 and reverse the second tee(tee looks like it has a ramp inside it).Good luck
@ April 27, 2014 12:08 PM in Three Recent SteamersI know it is a little overkill but love the way your piping looks.I have to add main air vents as their is none,another company said it was unnecessary so I really want to go the extra mile.A young family starting out and every vent in the house is hissing like crazy.Again thanks for all you contribute here a few of us do listen.
@ April 27, 2014 11:25 AM in Three Recent SteamersHave a steam boiler next month and am going to do a drop header hope you dont mind if i use your pics for pointers.Thankyou for sharing
@ April 27, 2014 11:21 AM in Mark vs MartinI personally think Marks argument and delivery came across a lot better and was more informative.G
Thanks for the link and as always a lot to learn from both sides.
@ April 26, 2014 7:49 PM in 270 Ft ManifoldHow do you like the boilers and what model,I hear they are popular in Canada.Beaytiful work thanks for sharing
@ April 20, 2014 7:44 AM in Boiler Protection Pipingonly joking,a way I have used effectively would be to put a tee on the supply,if your header is 11/4 make it a 11/4x3/4 tee.coming out of the return put another tee same size .Now pipe the supply 3/4 with the return 3/4 pipe and put a gate valve in between.You should also put a thermometer on the return.Open the gate valve until you get your desired temp.If I was able I would draw a sketch but not that far advanced with computers yet.
@ April 17, 2014 5:28 PM in pressure relief valveby any chance do you have an indirect piped of your boiler
@ April 12, 2014 3:21 PM in who is this Mr Pex guyit was the viega guy who I suppose scared me into not using their product.I do like however the design etc that viega provides,does Mr Pex also provide this.I am definitly going to give it a try on my next job.Thanks again8
@ April 12, 2014 8:52 AM in who is this Mr Pex guyHI,I just lost out on a radiant job.It was 2200 sqft under a slab.I proposed using viega as i know they are a reliable product but my competitor is using Mr Pex.
I dont know much about their product and am hesitant to use in case of failures etc.Has anyone had experience with it and how is their quality.Thanks,feedback greatly appreciated.
@ April 4, 2014 8:43 PM in steam boiler maintenanceFred,you are correct in what you say,as you probably have the float type lwco.I actually called Burnham and they said when using probe type there is no need to drain the boiler like you used to when using the float lwco.They said it will lessen efficiency and life span of boiler by adding fresh water on a regular basis.
@ April 2, 2014 8:19 PM in steam boiler maintenanceHi, a question came up at work today as to how often you should take water out of a boiler to prevent sludge build up.There was two different opinions,one was that if you are using a probe type low water cutoff there is no need to drain boiler on a weekly basis and said that by adding fresh water all the time you are decreasing the life of the boiler.Another guy said you should take a gallon or two out every week.Whats the correct answer bearing in mind you are using a probe lwco.Thanks
@ March 29, 2014 8:09 AM in Tub strainer removalhere is how I do it.get your sawzall with a fine blade.drop cloth in the tub,saw inside the tub shoe and very carefully over the flanged part of drain.same principal as when you cut and cafer a n old nipple out of a fitting.Once you do this the shoe will come apart,bit nerve wracking the first time just go real slow.Good luck
@ March 26, 2014 2:01 PM in Billing formati am in a similar situation,thankyou kindly heatpro ,ice,etc.For my first year I was excited just being busy thinking everything would work out.Anyhow i am into my second year and slowly getting my head out of the sand.After a 4hour sit down with my accountant he pointed out all of what heatpro said.I guess when you are used to working for someone and getting an hourly wage you dont see the ins and outs of how a business runs.I still am astonished at how much it is to run a company(myself and another mechanic).Insurance,comp etc.I guess this is what the average homeowner doesnt understand when you charge X amount to install a boiler or change a toilet.Good luck and hang in there,a supportive wife is very helpful by the way.
@ March 20, 2014 7:01 AM in Piping correction 1 inch copper sweatas previous poster said double elbow swing will straighten you out.You could also try a brass tee .On the bull of the tee go to where you need and leave a drain cock on the run.You got options but I would cut that pipe out and re-do it some other way.
@ March 18, 2014 7:03 PM in Viega design?Hi,I always kept my loops to a max of 250'.I am now working on a radiant job designed by Viega,under a slab they are showing two loops with piping more than 300'.one loop is 323 and the other is 316.Is this ok as I dont want to deviate from their plan.The customer specified he wanted a viega design .1/2 "pipe under slab.Do you think i will run into trouble????
@ March 18, 2014 6:53 PM in ? for Tim .Condensate in gas line/or sabotageThursday I will be going back,just to clarify,the 20' of pipe with condensate is inside a heated building.Thanks for your responses,the building supervisor has given the go ahead to drain line etc.I will take pics to show the outcome.
@ March 18, 2014 7:30 AM in ? for Tim .Condensate in gas line/or sabotagethats what got me,there is already a 12" drip leg on a 4 inch pipe.How much condensate can i really expect???????I will keep you posted as to the outcome.Thanks Tim.
@ March 17, 2014 5:56 PM in ? for Tim .Condensate in gas line/or sabotageThankyou Tim for your response,if I drain out all condensate will there be any effect on the incoming gas?.I am going to replace the existing strainer going into unit in case of rust particles,as originally the company was looking at a repipe thinking someone had messed around,this will be a much cheaper option for them.,Thanks for your response.
@ March 17, 2014 9:15 AM in ? for Tim .Condensate in gas line/or sabotageOk,looked at a job last week.Previous company went bankrupt and left contractors out in the cold with no payments.Long story short electricians messes up panels etc.My problem is on the roof I have six inch welded pipe for gas.On one of the drops there is a 6x4tee,the line then drops 20' in 4 inch with a 4x2 tee feeding new generator(which new tenant paid a fortune for.Of the 2" line there is a valve ,strainer and union.I cracked the union and got water and with valve closed I let it drain.I then with the union open I cranked the valve slightly and felt like I opened a water main.? is is it possible for this 20' drop of 4" pipe to fill with condensate or am I looking at something else.On the roof the gas line runs on for 100' I opened a union and got gas no water and there is no valve to isolate the 4"line so it has been live the entire time.Pipe is indoors in a factory.
What do you think Im looking at.