Joined on January 13, 2010
Last Post on February 7, 2014
@ February 7, 2014 7:21 PM in Radiant heat zone not letting water flowThose uponor zone valves have an indicator on the motor, and if you tighten them down to much, they wont work , when you tighten them, there is a horizontal line on the motor, and when you tighten it too much, you will cause the indicator to travel past the line which is no good. Tighten them until the indicator is on the line. Did you only replace the motor or the whole valve? is the indicator moving? and do you have a zone control module servicing the valve? Are the lights on? you should have green top left, then yellow, with demand, and red when valve end switch makes. No green means no power, and don't forget to check the fuse on the ZCM.
@ February 7, 2014 6:59 PM in Need some serious helpDid you install this "system", or someone else, and are you the homeowner? Just curious, I have seen this user name before
@ January 29, 2014 11:30 PM in Buderus GB-142I stand corrected, thanks Rob. And also on that GB142, I have found a common problem with these boilers leaking through the air vent very slowly, and not something that would jump right out at you unless you look for it. The supply house sells a replacement kit to rebuild it, also, and no disrespect to you as an auto mechanic, I am sure you have a great deal of mechanical ability, I feel that when it comes to a HE boiler, with a potentially blocked flue collector, you can have a dangerous situation, with the possibility of carbon monoxide entering the space and should not be taken lightly. Maybe its not blocked, and its fine, however, when it goes that far, without service and the lower plate,plugs up even a little, the scale will enter the flue collector, and stick to the sides and actually harden like cement, and cause at least some restriction in the exhaust. This is probably the hardest part on the boiler to fully access, and the entire boiler needs to be torn down to get to this part, I would consider myself a junkyard auto mech., I do my own brakes, but I wouldn't try to rebuild my own engine, and dyno test it. Good luck to you whatever you decide.
@ January 28, 2014 11:51 PM in Retrofitting old home with radiant heat: suspended slab or panelsI know we call it staple up, but its really not stapled directly to the wood, and in my heat loss programs, and in the schooling I have had, the installation was called suspended tubing. I only use plates when called for in my heat loss software, usually not too often. My home did not require any.
@ January 28, 2014 10:13 PM in Retrofitting old home with radiant heat: suspended slab or panelsI agree with Gordy, Gypcrete would be my #1 choice because of the way it holds the heat, and levels the floor, but I have seen it pose problems with interior elevations, like doors, windows, outlets, etc. But where I am, most of my installs here are suspended tubing, and many just because of the labor and materials savings. My own house was 2 3/4" out across my kitchen, jacked it up, added supports, got it to a 1/2", added my suspended tubing, going through 3/4 rough sown oak, with 3/4 maple on top, (my house is 144 years old) works like a champ. It has been in for 9 years, no supplemental heat, and it gets cold here in MA. ( it was seven degrees here one day last week.) Don't be afraid of suspended systems.1
@ January 28, 2014 9:08 PM in Buderus GB-142I am assuming by your questions that you are not a tech.. My personal feeling is to get a Bedurus tech out there immediately, that boiler needs professional service. When that pipe in the bottom plate plugs up, even partially, the scale and water (which is corrosive), will climb up into the lower part of the flu gas collector, which is located only inches above that bottom plate. This boiler forces flue gasses through a very narrow passage in the bottom of that flue collector, and if it is not 100% clear, it will not run right, at the very least. Removal of that collector is not an easy task, and the entire boiler has to be stripped down, cleaned and reassembled, then tuned. This is not a job for a handyman. If you have trouble finding a competent tech. in your area, go to the Bedurus website, and choose from the menu " find a contractor", enter your zip code, and a list of factory trained companies will come up, and will even show specific equipment that they specialize in.
@ January 27, 2014 11:05 PM in New boiler, Insufficent heatThat is simply not true, if all of the telestats are open on a cold day, and you have one zone with 8 loops of different lengths, the water will flow to the path of least resistance, usually the shortest loop, with the least amount of fittings on it, robbing flow and Btus from other loops, and the floor mass will heat up unevenly, and will not work as efficiently as it can.
@ January 27, 2014 8:26 PM in Buderus GB-142Here it is! took me a while to find it. Plugged solid, even when I made this hole with my finger it still held water.
@ January 27, 2014 8:13 PM in What brand of indirect hot water heater would one recommend ?I hope you chose a stainless steel one!
@ January 27, 2014 8:08 PM in New boiler, Insufficent heatTHE FLOW RATE IS SUPER IMPORTANT!!!!! * If you have one loop flowing at .1, and all the rest at .08, guess where the majority of the water is flowing! All loops on a manifold must be balanced to exactly the same flow rate or it will not work properly
@ January 27, 2014 7:57 PM in GB-142 ControlThe AM 10 comes standard with the GB142 anyways, This guy was asking for something with more control, you don't NEED it obviously, but if you want to have more control over the entire system, and be able to check multiple readings without having to go downstairs take the cover off, then why not?
@ January 27, 2014 7:39 PM in GB-142 ControlI hate to tell you but that is the cherry on that boiler sundae my friend, its a lot of $$. for that control, but it is a great option. Buderus used to make a couple of other room sensors, that were much less money, and had way less features, you may find some old ones kicking around the warehouse, however the RC35, is a room sensor, and a controller, that overrides the AM10 module, and also acts as a thermostat. It has weekly and week end programs, you can adjust the heating curve, the night setback, it has room setback if you need it, you can adjust your potable water temp., and check everything out in your slippers, no need to go downstairs! Best money I ever spent. You don't want to put hub caps on that hot rod do you?!?!
@ January 27, 2014 6:58 PM in Buderus GB-142Finding a plugged up condensate, means your boiler has been severely neglected. This boiler should be cleaned annually, or at least semiannually to avoid this problem in the future. If the condensate is plugged up to the extent which you are describing, you can bet your heat exchanger fins are blocked also. I am willing to bet your gas bill has gone up significantly. For this much scale to take place, (and I have seen it more than once) at least the lower part of your heat exchanger is surrounded by condensate water and the flu passages are at the very least, partially blocked, as they are located on the bottom. You should have this boiler serviced immediately by a qualified technician. The flue passage on the bottom is very narrow, and you will need to dismantle the boiler almost completely to access the rear flue, and properly clean it. The burner must also be serviced, and tuned with a new combustion analysis. The bottom gasket is designed to be reused, you can repair it with silicone if you rip it while you wait for a new one, but that is the least of your problems right now. I have run into this a few times and it is a long process to get that boiler back into shape. Luckily the burner is on top, but that poor boiler was still running? If so, not for much longer. Imagine the burner trying to heat the HX and the condensate that was surrounding it!!! And the fan trying to force the flue gasses through all of that mess!!! I'm sure I have a picture I can post.
@ January 27, 2014 6:12 PM in New boiler, Insufficent heatI agree with Zman,
In the picture it looks like the loops are not balanced properly, (if every zone on that manifold is calling), turn up all thermostats serving that manifold, and when the red and yellow lights are lit up on the zone control module serving that manifold, check to make sure that the flow is the same for all of those loops. Adjust the knobs on the corresponding loops to ensure that all loops have the same reading, otherwise the water will follow the path of least resistance, and might not flow at all through other loops.
@ January 26, 2014 2:49 PM in Hot water baseboard heatingI would also like to say that I thoroughly enjoyed this thread, and all of the knowledge out there that was provided. I know I am late to the dance but just in case, I couldn't help chiming in just because in this area, there are many installers, but not many technicians.
I see it all the time boilers installed without a proper heat loss, no combustion analysis,
wrong controls, etc.
@ January 26, 2014 2:39 PM in Hot water baseboard heatingI have run into this problem, more than once, and I have to say that most of the time when the indirect will not keep up on these Alpine boilers it is the control parameters that are set up in the Sage controller set up menu. These are commonly set up wrong, and if left to the default menu, this setting is incorrect. Typically, most " factory reps." that I have encountered in the MA./ New England area are actually educated sales reps, employed by the wholesaler. Many are quite knowledgeable, however many more are not. It is very important to make sure these parameters are set properly and ruled out, as this is the number one reason for a IWH not keeping up with demand, in my humble experience.
in the set up menu; System pump should be set to "Central Heat, Optional Priority"
Boiler pump should be set to "Any Demand"
DHW should be set to "Primary Loop Piped IWH"
DHW Priority Enable is Optional (typically enabled)
Also, in the adjust menu, under the DHW setting, the DHW set point should be set at 180 degrees. The common misconception is that this is the DHW temperature set point , when in fact this is the boiler water design temp. to produce the desired output of potable hot water. (some times techs. will lower this in the summer months)
also in the DHW menu, Sleep Setback is 170 deg.
Above Differential is 2 deg.
Below Differential is 10 deg.
@ January 26, 2014 11:00 AM in Alpine condensateI have seen this problem before, and it is a factory leak at the exhaust joint, inside the jacket, on the transition fitting, which can be hard to see. Once the unit is installed you cannot tighten this without taking the unit off the wall. Turn off the boiler, dry it off, and using a mirror, you can see the joint, and apply some RTV high temp silicone, let it dry before you fire the boiler up again ans it will be fine.
@ January 27, 2010 11:08 AM in Is ISeries the right choice?The 2107 is not really a thermostat its usually installed in the common area of the home (the place where the family hangs out the most) thats one of the places it will take information back to the 2107, its main job is to control the 2107 from a remote location, and to override the program that you have set it to, like when its in night mode, in which it sutracts 3-5 deg.from your day temp setting, and its a holiday, you stay up later than normal and you want the heat to stay on till 11pm instead of 9pm. you override the 2107 from the room sensor. you can still use a thermostat on the zone, and the boiler will still function the same, with a multi pump relay, and conventional t-stat. you can install a second room controller (or room sensor) one is on the 241 module and one on the 2107, both are marked bf brown on the circut boards. then you could have lowered the temp in circut 1 via the programing, as circut 2 is the 241 module, then manually mix the zone if need be. My question is why do you need a second temp anyway? unless you have a large area of rug, just run it at a lower temp for the hardwood, tile etc, and put it all on circut 2, if not check your piping and switch setting on the I series valve, see.attch.