Heating Help

Need teflon tape

@ December 30, 2010 7:20 AM in LWCO resetting constantly

Tim,
Yes, cleaning the probe is the next step of course, but the teflon tape is the manufacturers must. Threading compound is the no-no on the Taco LTR series LWCO devices. Odd, since if you look at other LWCO's it is Teflon that is the no-no. I think it's because the threading casing is of plastic and not metal that Teflon is allowed.
Thx,
Rob

LWCO resetting constantly

@ December 29, 2010 11:31 AM in LWCO resetting constantly

LWCO problem
 Installed a new boiler during the summer at vacation home. Initial fire up was in September and all seemed OK. Was at the house over the weekend (Dec. 25th, 2010)  and started the boiler. All went well as we were bringing the house from 39 to 70 degrees. As you can imagine this took many hours. When the temp did reach 70 degrees the boiler shut down as expected. After going below the set point the boiler did not kick back in. I went down to the basement and observed the LWCO was blinking RED. OK, hmm, low water in boiler? Strange. Boiler pressure was at 16psi. Make up water supply is new and functioning. The LWCO is a TACO LTR0243U-1,with extended harness for a United Technologies controller on a WMcL CGS-6. The best I could figure was to reset the LWCO by unplugging the harness from the probe side. This reset the LWCO and the system was operational again. During the night this occurred again. Back downstairs again. This time I flipped the Emergency cutoff switch off, then on. System started right up again. In the morning I decided to check the radiators to see if I was getting any air pockets passing the LWCO. One rad needed some bleeding. Continued to run boiler OK, and it ran great all day. Again overnight I had to go downstairs and reset. Each time I reset the temp at the thermostat and stop the boiler this will occur. At this point all I can think of is;
1.        Faulty LWCO
2.        Faulty ground on electric panel
3.        Dirt in system
4.        Not enough water in system
5.        Waterlogged expansion tank
6.        Wrong leads from thermostat
7.       Probe threaded too far into pipe. (pipe is 1 1/4" black iron)
As we had to leave on Tuesday and did not have enough test equipment the condition basically will remain the same. I’m heading back down next week for an extended period and am hoping someone here may give me better insight as to how to correct this condition. Also as it stands I’m pretty sure to rule out 4,5 and 6.
Rob

Taco Part #

@ July 19, 2010 10:51 AM in LWCO

After debating everything one last time I decided that Dave's method was the easiest. It should be noted that the LTR0243U-1 comes with a five foot harness for the United Technologies control boards. I found a great retailer on the web and came in at a very good price point (much lower than all other vendors who sold at about $125).
The method seems the easiest because the harness splits between the additional limits pwr (factory harness) and control board.
I'm installing this and a FasNseal SS venting system next week. I'll post one more time on this topic to let you know if this does the trick. The harness should make the run to the tee installed in the bypass but I'm not sure if there is a knockout that allows for the shortest route. 
We passed the gas line pressure test last month with the County inspectors and we will be turning gas on in September.
One last hurdle; Weil McLain had a recall on the CGs series about 2 years ago. The serial number is on the unit and I had not written it down prior to  installation. I will soon find out if this boiler was on that list. Weil McLain does have a fix if it is.
Thanks to everyone and especially to Dave who lead me to the most expedious solution.
Rob

LWCO

@ July 6, 2010 9:58 AM in LWCO

Dave,
Thanks for responding. Actually I'm looking at the McDonnell / Miller, 'Guard Dog' (RB-24 series (E-S)). It is to be installed in the 3/4" portion of the supply line tee. My difficulty is in determining its' position on the CGs control board. Weil McClain specs don't specifically indicate any arrangement and I'm not exactly sure if the 'universal harness' will work on this control board. A look at their wiring schematic was not exactly helpful.
The other consideration I've come across is Weil McClain may deem that a LWCO is not mandatory for the boiler, but theory says put one in.
Rob

LWCO

@ July 5, 2010 2:10 PM in LWCO

I'd like to add an LWCO to a Weil-McLain CGS-6 NG boiler.  I'd prefer a probe, but I am unsure if I need 120VAC or the 24V version and exactly how it should be wired on the control board.
Also, is this a 'universal harness' control board?
Rob

Some measurements & pix

@ March 5, 2010 10:26 AM in Circulating Pump

Well I'm finally back from the honeydew 'vacation'. Got everything else done except for what I wanted to do. Nothing new there. I've rounded up a few pix of the existing piping with measurements. The question is how to figure resizing any of the piping based on the GPM of whichever boiler we go with. This part of the art is the most tedious but most important. I still have to finish the measurements to come up with a satisfactory heat loss analysis.Header = 4.5" diameterRiser   =  3.5" diameterReturn (Main)= 2.5" diameterReturn (Sides) = 2" diameterI hope you can help lead to some good critical thinking here.Rob

Time to travel

@ February 13, 2010 3:43 PM in Circulating Pump

Thanks all for comments, suggestions and ideas. Tomorrow is a travel day to NC. Minimal opportunity today for good research, etc., as I'm at Job2. I need to point out here that the proposed date to begin installation will be toward the end of May, 2010, giving ample time to get this nailed down fairly close.
First, RadiantWizard, we're about 175 miles from Charlotte, Va. I'm inclined to give the heat/loss calcs a shot and post my numbers up here for starters when I get back. I'm not an Einstein but give me a tolerance of 8 to 10% and I think the next level will be in sight. If permissable some pictures may accompany this thread. The computer I was using today didn't have Adobe PDF reader software so some literature on the Viessman and the Burnham will get read during the week (but then again this is a HoneyDew work/vacation, besides the workload I have in mind already).
JD, points well taken about boards! You've also pointed out that my panel situation is the Archilles heel here. Do you know there is still knob and tube in this house? Absolutely necessary is a dedicated, grounded line prior to installation. I still have to run a couple of lines to meet local code in the bedrooms and upgrade the panel. But don't get me wrong we *love* this palace. It just needs the right TLC.
Charlie, Yeah but......... I really don't like a single point of failure. So I'm inclined to keep this separated. I haven't read enough to argue the pros and cons of indirect heating systems.
Rob
Be back in a week

OK, I'll Take A Step Back

@ February 12, 2010 8:51 PM in Circulating Pump

RadiantWizard,
After looking at so many of your posts it's obvious that High Efficiency is your thing. Help me change my mind here. I do have serious doubts in respect to computer boards and their programming (Toyota anyone?). In that respect it may boil (no pun intended) down to the dampness in the "basement" (a sprawling crawl space with a very large pit for the boiler). Subject to this environment in the summer when the system is not running will the system be at the mercy of this dampness? Are these High Efficiency units air tight around the boards? I'm flexible but steer me over these bumps.
Rob

Circulating Pump added info

@ February 12, 2010 8:25 PM in Circulating Pump

RadiantWizard,
Thanks for replying...... Well not exactly the North Pole.... North Carolina to be exact. The estimate on size came from several vendors who sized the job based on the antiquated system that was there. They probably built the house around it back then. Very modern for 1923! It is a Craftsman style house. Two level with 11 rooms and 2 full baths. The sun porch is unheated. There are 14 radiators ranging from about 20 to 35 sections. All 5 column. There is heat loss as the cold crawl space is uninsulated.This is a NatGas setup. Bear in mind the rooms are graciously laid out size wise.
We purchased the home through foreclosure knowing the heating system did not work. We tried in vain to get a boiler man to get it working but the best we could do was have one tell us that they wouldn't guarantee the repair for a week and we would be throwing money out the window.
This is our 2nd home, soon to become a primary residence this year. I have a great steam system in NJ and I love radiant heat. Everyone in NC (at least this town) has tried to encourage me to switch to forced hot air. I am resisting.
Without complicating this do you believe that a standard efficiency boiler can do the job? OK, I'll push to 87% efficiency. I just distrust the high efficiency units with computer boards that many owners (including at least one HVAC tech) say are a problem child.
Just as a footnote, my sweethearts cousin (versed in homebuilding) said 150k BTU should be all we need and has agreed to do the job with me.
Your advice is truly welcome, but the first question still stands as to wheather it's OK to add a circulating pump on a gravity based system.
Rob

Circulating Pump

@ February 12, 2010 10:20 AM in Circulating Pump

We are replacing a boiler for a 2600 sq. ft environment. This was a gravity based system build circa 1923. The old boiler specs showed a BTU min at 110k and a max at 400k. While sizing the boiler is still a little tricky, we're thinking 150k to 200k @ about 83% efficiency should do the job ( I am staying away from high efficiency boilers due to price and what I've heard about several brands).
Is it safe to install a circulating pump on an old gravity based system? I'm familiarizing myself with the GPM formulae that will be in play (starting out at 4 inch then reducing). Also is it true that the circulator will live on the *return* side?

Rob