Joined on February 27, 2010
Last Post on July 16, 2014
@ June 11, 2014 7:49 PM in Mega Steam conversionSince this boiler has more back pressure in the chamber, you may need to go with one orifice size bigger than expected. The air adjustment will be determined by your combustion numbers. That's all I've found to be special about converting these. We converted one last month with good results. I don't see what the fuss is all about coming from Burnham.
@ June 11, 2014 12:45 PM in PresidentWhew, that's cutting it close. A drop header is essential here. I would use an oversized header and maybe even oversized boiler risers to accommodate the extra water in the piping. The drop header can be any height above the water line, but I wouldn't go any less than 10".
@ June 11, 2014 12:39 PM in Radiator identification needed to get EDR.That looks like a SunRad or something similar behind a cabinet. It's probably close to 50 EDR. If you can count the sections, multiply that number by 2.25 for the rating. Any chance of getting the cover off for a picture?
@ June 11, 2014 6:19 AM in Adding on to existing Monoflo systemI would imagine that the distance of piping will lead to the greatest restriction. I would add a small circulator to the supply line to overcome that friction. You just need to calculate the flow vs. head for the circulator.
@ June 10, 2014 2:03 PM in Lochinvar ignition troubleVerify the proper spark gap. Even if it sparks, the airflow may blow the arc off of the ignitor. You can also adjust the venturi ratio but will need an analyzer to verify the results.
Is this direct vent or Category IV?
@ June 10, 2014 2:00 PM in Home OwnerWe use PEERLESS a lot. They have 3" boiler tappings and decent efficiency ratings. They also offer BTUH sizes down to 88K, which is close to the smallest size available. Never had any problems with them as long as the maintenance is done properly.
@ June 10, 2014 7:33 AM in Any commentsI would have gone to a 5" header. My charts show 3" as good for up to 140,000 BTUH. For the 5007B DOE output, a 3" header has the steam moving at over 56 ft/sec. A 5" header, at 20 ft/sec. My charts assume a 1PSI maximum cut-out.
Might not make a difference, but something to keep in mind for the next one.
@ June 10, 2014 6:38 AM in steam in the summer!You should also set the tank temperature above at 140F to kill off any bacteria and the chance of Legionella. 115F is a breeding ground for harmful water pests.
@ June 10, 2014 6:15 AM in Two Pipe Steam System with Air VentsThe return piping definitely forms a water-seal trap. The air vents on the radiators will now act as the only means of air release from the radiators, so it's critical that they are sized and working properly. This piping arrangement should not be a problem as long as the water seal is low enough to hold bback the pressure from the steam main. Definitely install a Vaporstat on this job to make sure that this will be guaranteed.
@ June 7, 2014 8:58 AM in Boiler replaced - Boiler trap removedA Boiler Return Trap and a F&T Trap are not the same thing! Right now, there is no way for air to leave the system/radiators. Get rid of that F&T trap, and install a heav dose of main vents. Then fix that horrible mess of piping, getting rid of the copper at the same time.
@ June 6, 2014 6:06 AM in Gas forr a Vaccum Vapor SystemWe could certainly work on the system but not do any work involving permits. Best bet is to find someone local.
@ May 31, 2014 12:21 PM in Rinnai boiler corroded in less than two yearsOne thing that catches my eye is that the drain line is not made with a hard connection. I wonder if the condensate is vaporizing or being sucked into the cabinet by the blower. The acid in the condensate may be causing this corrosion.
That's just an observation, and I have no proof or experience to back it up.
@ May 27, 2014 6:44 PM in Very last steam seminar in Mt. KiscoIt doesn't look like there's a way to buy more than one admission at the same time? Is this possible, or should we do it all separately?
PS. Excited to get our apprentice to this seminar before you retire.
@ May 25, 2014 8:04 AM in troubleshoot constant call for heatIs a zone valve open when it's not supposed to be?
Have you isolated which zone is the problem by disconnecting individual wires?
@ May 24, 2014 5:50 PM in Escalera Power Hand TruckWe have a newer model of this hand truck and can vouche for it. Worth every penny.
@ May 19, 2014 9:10 PM in We got mentioned in Green Building Advisor.Must be a nice feeling when your work-baby starts walking around on its own.
@ May 19, 2014 8:41 PM in Steam to Hot waterYou don't tug on Superman's cape. You don't spit into the wind. You don't pull the mask off that ol' lone ranger. And you don't convert steam to hot water.
Or something like that...
Somebody might get the impression that we take the loss of a steam system very seriously around here.
@ May 17, 2014 7:46 AM in Steamhead,ChrisIt would probably work, but I would never do it.
@ May 16, 2014 4:26 PM in Sunrad Radiator - Loud banging problemWe have a rule in our company...If you want to find the problem (in a steam system), follow the copper first. Chances are that the knuckleheads who used the copper piping didn't install it correctly.
@ May 16, 2014 6:13 AM in Replacing existing steam system- hoping t get some opinions and adviceWhere are you located? There are a lot of Richardson systems in NJ and PA that we service. There are more options than you think. The key to operting a successful Richardson system is INCREDIBLY LOW pressures. 3-5 ounces or less. It's the perfect system to use a 2-stage gas valve on. The near-boiler piping should be better than what the book recommends to ensure dry steam. If the original air eliminator is still there, you may even be able to run on a vacuum.
I would also steer clear of any kind of mechanical pumping device and rely on gravity returns.
@ May 15, 2014 6:52 PM in Steam to Hot waterI'll give you consultation right here. Don't convert to hot water. Fix the vapor system and live in comfort and peace.