Heating Help

RE

@ December 21, 2011 9:02 PM in More Draft With Damper Closed

Utica MGB has the front-style draft hood, or breech. The vent damper is right on top of the boiler. Draft readings were taken immediately after the damper. There is no barometric damper.

I get the same results whether the boiler is fired or not. I can cycle the damper open and closed by tripping the relay.

More Draft With Damper Closed

@ December 21, 2011 8:03 AM in More Draft With Damper Closed

Utica MGB100HID

Boiler had a leaking section covered under warranty. While I was there, the customer had previous complaints about an "exhaust smell" so I start checking draft. With the boiler running, I have -0.005" WC. When the boiler shuts down on temperature, the vent damper closes and my draft goes up to -0.03"WC.

There is a 6" flexible liner approximately 20 feet in length. Could it be oversized? Too short? My charts have it looking acceptable. 100K boiler with a 40K water heater.

When the damper closes. is it just accelerating the draft that's there already?

RE

@ December 21, 2011 7:59 AM in Intermittent problems igniting boiler

I'd verify spark gap, and good grounding. If it only happens when the weather drops, I'd check for proper draft conditions in the chimney and through the boiler.

RE

@ December 21, 2011 7:53 AM in Unique radiator (pic included) and proper pitch assistance needed

It depends on the amount of radiators connected to that pipe. He needs to know the EDR of the radiator, then match the piping to handle the amount of condensate produced.

What size is the riser pipe? Bigger than 3/4"?

RE

@ December 21, 2011 7:46 AM in Gas Conversion Burner

I converted my own system with a Wayne Conversion Burner. Have it fired at 40MBTUH (slightly derated). Tuned up, it's running over 80% efficient. It cost a couple hundred at the time. I think it's a great option for a lower cost job. Just make sure you follow all of the directions...even the "suggested" ones!

RE

@ December 21, 2011 7:41 AM in Icesaylor, Mark Eatherton, Timmy McElwain..............

Try removing the ignitor cable and rechecking voltage. Sometimes a faulty or grounded ignitor will draw too much power from the module and cause a voltage drop in the circuit. Also check 24V with and without load.

RE

@ December 20, 2011 9:26 PM in Unique radiator (pic included) and proper pitch assistance needed

Steam capacity charts don't list 3/4" pipe for one-pipe steam. 3/4" pipe just isn't large enough to handle steam and condensate moving in opposite directions.

Are there any problems with this radiator? Noises, hissing?

RE

@ December 20, 2011 9:11 PM in Unique radiator (pic included) and proper pitch assistance needed

No good. Just...no good.

You can't win in this situation. The piping arrangement does not allow the radiator to be pitched in any direction. I would try to lower the copper pipe, or have it redone to turn downwards immediately out of the radiator and then run the pipe to the left.

Is that 3/4" copper?!

RE

@ December 17, 2011 8:09 PM in Burners wont lite consistently

I'd suspect poor igniter placement or very dirty burners. Possibly blocked orifices.

Did you measure manifold gas pressure?

NJ

@ December 17, 2011 2:53 PM in Weil McLain Gold GV Series 2 with Honeywell S9201a module - intermittent issues

Where in NJ are you? I'd be happy to service your boiler if the problem persists.

RE

@ December 17, 2011 2:49 PM in Burners wont lite consistently

Are you a homeowner or contractor?

RE

@ December 17, 2011 10:15 AM in ID Hot Water Convector

I agree. We're sizing the boiler to the heat loss. We just want to verify the radiation, and possibly modulate the water temperature to save some money. Makes them happy, and makes us look good.

Thanks!

@ December 17, 2011 10:04 AM in ID Hot Water Convector

Looks like the closest so far. Thanks for the help.

RE

@ December 17, 2011 9:21 AM in ID Hot Water Convector

That's what we're going to fall back on, but the convectors have several passes of fin-tube. I wasn't sure if the rating would be greater than the total sum of all the passes individually.

ID Hot Water Convector

@ December 16, 2011 6:52 PM in ID Hot Water Convector

Our manager was at a church to work up a boiler replacement. Wanted to get the ratings from all of the convectors. Couldn't find any information on these units. He said they looked like multiple rows of copper fin-tube. I found some that were very close, but not exact.

It's a hot water system, so the connected load is only needed to determine water temperature and as a reference against the building heat loss.

RE

@ December 15, 2011 8:48 PM in Lwco flush issues

You are welcome. We hate those kinds of service calls anyway!

RE

@ December 15, 2011 6:14 AM in stumped and need your help .....

Is the drawing of the boiler accurate? Is there an equalizer?

The piping change is a problem. You've now made your A Dimension the height between the end of the steam main and the top of the raised U.

It would be fine to go under the door, but then keep it a wet return from that point on.

Also, the first vent is not doing anything where it is. It's should be located before the drop under the door. That's also why it's leaking. It's being flooded by water.

RE

@ December 15, 2011 6:07 AM in Lwco flush issues

You have a steam boiler. It is very wise to flush the LWCO on a regular basis. To refill the boiler, you'll be looking for the water feed. Look for a small copper line with some type of valve on it. Either a long handled ball valve, or round handled gate valve. Look for any small copper being tied into a larger pipe on the boiler. That's you're best bet. Then open the valve and fill the boiler very slowly.

RE

@ December 11, 2011 9:59 AM in draft in 80% furnace

An induced-draft 80% appliance is still natural draft. The inducer is needed to overcome the heat exchanger restriction. Inducer motors weren't needed on older furnaces because the HX's were larger, less restrictive, and exhausted hotter. If you compare an induced-draft and a natural-draft appliance, they both act the same way after the exhaust leaves the appliance.  They just arrive at that point differently. The exhaust will be hot enough to draft on its own. That's why 80% flues are larger than 90% flues. A truly natural draft appliance (draft hood) requires a larger flue to ensure less restriction on the HX. When it's induced, the restriction is already overcome by the motor. 90% appliances need to create a positive draft because the exhaust is too cool to draft on its own.

RE

@ December 3, 2011 6:13 AM in Flame Rollout Sensor at Burner Tray

It only happens overnight? Here's my thought. When the temperature drops at night, the colder outdoor air will create a stronger draft than normal daytime conditions. The excess draft may be pulling more air from the draft hood, causing less air to travel through the boiler.

I wonder if there is a draft gauge is made with a "Maximum reading" option on it. Like you see on some other pressure test gauges. Then you could set it up and see if the draft changes overnight.

RE

@ November 30, 2011 4:52 PM in Gas flue back pressure at start-up in Massachusetts

"the chimney and draft is fine"

"Fine" can mean a lot of things to a lot of different people. I would get exact numbers on the draft. Then do some depressurization tests to see if it is affected by exhaust fans or other appliances.

RE

@ November 30, 2011 7:08 AM in Feedback on Proposed Repairs

Thanks for the input. Sounds like we have a better plan now.