Joined on February 27, 2010
Last Post on December 6, 2013
@ November 27, 2013 7:18 PM in Two Pipe Steam - Air Vents and some other confusionSo, we repiped the boiler and made some system upgrades such as new cross-over traps, and inlet orifices in all of the radiators. New Vaporstat running at 10oz or less. System hovers right round 6 oz.
@ November 25, 2013 5:52 PM in Weil-McLain EGH ratings loweredWe rip out a lot of 60 year old boilers with bricks in the flue baffles above the water line. Maybe 60 years isn't long to satisfy every consumer, but that's a long enough life for me.
With such a small amount of space inside all of these residential boilers, the temperautres really won't change that much to cause stress by adding baffles. In fact, every time an oil boiler gets dirty/restricted, it effectively adds its own "baffles" and traps heat in the boiler. As long as the combustion numbers are in line, it can do a lot to raise efficiency. Every system, and every boiler is different and needs to be field tested. They will need to provide an easy method of removing or adding these baffles.
@ November 24, 2013 8:33 PM in main return line trapsHow high is the water level in that picture?
@ November 24, 2013 8:32 PM in New steam boilerHow many threaded fittings are on the system now that aren't leaking? Why be afraid to add a handful more?
@ November 24, 2013 7:15 PM in Radiator shut off valve and boiler sight glassI would advise you to keep the radiators on even if you don't use the rooms. A cold room will only make the other rooms colder, and run the boiler longer. Plus, with radiators shut off, the boiler will be grossly oversized, causing short cycling, wet steam, and extra wear on parts.
The boiler should be drained a few cups every week. If the water is clean, go every 2 weeks. When you refill the boiler, run it long enough to make steam to boil out all of the fresh water's extra oxygen. The sight glass can be removed and cleaned.
@ November 24, 2013 6:42 PM in New steam boilerHeaders should never be welded unless you add a lot of threaded fittings to allow for expansion and twisting.
Turn that pressure down! Why 4?
That header is an "automatic boiler splitter".
@ November 23, 2013 7:25 PM in Smith becomes WestcastThe 21st century has not been good to Smith. I think the series 8 as we know it is gone forever. They've said that the newer model will be a few points more efficient. If it's the same as the Peerless WBV/WV, then that's just not true.
@ November 23, 2013 7:52 AM in Smith becomes WestcastI guess the Smith/Peerless tie is officially sealed. Let's see what happens to the product line now...
@ November 23, 2013 7:36 AM in how to wire a vaporstat in series with presure controlLet's assume that the controls are exactly the way they came from the factory. After you install the Vaporstat, run a wire from it to the existing Pressuretrol. Take one wire off of the P-trol terminal. Wire nut that wire to one wire from the V-stat. The other wire from the V-stat goes to the P-trol terminal.
Think about series wiring as completing a circle.
@ November 23, 2013 7:34 AM in help with adding steam mian ventsI never liked the idea of tapping a piece of pipe or fitting. We always see them leaking at some point. I would try to get real fittings on the mains to add the vents. It'll be a lot less prone to leaks, and lot easier to add additional vents in the future, if needed.
@ November 22, 2013 8:58 PM in Radiator Closest To Return Leaking A lot of WaterSometimes, two problems can mask each other. Maybe with the weather being mild, the boiler never cycled long enough to cause any problems.
@ November 22, 2013 6:47 PM in Smith becomes WestcastThe new series 8HE looks oddly familiar...
@ November 22, 2013 10:07 AM in Vaporstat & Gauge Piping with drip leg?Try to install the pressure assembly on top of the boiler. You'll have room for a drip leg there.
@ November 21, 2013 8:30 PM in Steam ghostWho ya' gonna call?
Methinks that ghost has aa name,,,Wet Steam. Or maybe his brother, Sagging Main.
@ November 19, 2013 8:39 PM in Is there a truly graphical heat-loss program?Wrightsoft! You draw the blueprints and change your parameters. Easy, peasy, lemon squeezy.
@ November 19, 2013 8:35 PM in My Shiny Old ToyThe trap looks like a band-aid for keeping steam out of a dry return, instead of dropping into a wet return.
I've seen the "bypass, short circuit" arrangement once before. It had no appreciable effect on the system. Although, when I saw it, there was a cross below every radiator run out.
The spigot is another band-aid. Somebody didn't know how to use a level, and the spigot is their way of removing water from the main.
@ November 19, 2013 7:39 AM in Another Twin System - 6" Drop HeaderThe lag boiler cuts out at 12. Lead boiler cuts out at 16. When both boilers run, it builds pressure steadily, and maintains system very well. When only the lead boiler runs, it doesn't maintain enough pressure to keep the unit heaters running.
I'm planning to go back soon to add modulating fan controls to the unit heaters (as recommended by SWEI). If the blowers run at 50% speed, they should more closely match the lead boiler's output.
@ November 17, 2013 8:30 PM in Another Twin System - 6" Drop HeaderYou're right that it will. However, we needed to keep the Gifford Loop high enough to keep all of the wet returns wet. There is also about 2 cups of water that lays inside of each tee. In fact, every header, no matter what size, has water trapped in the fittings.
@ November 17, 2013 7:48 PM in Another Twin System - 6" Drop HeaderWe were out of wicking, or else we would have used it. The last 6" 90 faces down at a 45 degree angle, and reduces down, going to the equalizer in the back left. There is surprisingly little steam carryover between boilers.
@ November 17, 2013 4:17 PM in Another Twin System - 6" Drop HeaderThose are for the circulated zone. The water level in the boilers equalizes because the returns are connected.
@ November 17, 2013 6:04 AM in Smith G-8 with New Style Carlin EZ-GasCheck out the Honeywell R8845U relay. It has a Common terminal for the WiFi thermostats and a control fuse.