Security Seal Facebook Twitter GooglePlus Pinterest Newsletter Sign-up
The Wall


Joined on February 27, 2010

Last Post on August 20, 2014

Contact User

Recent Posts

« 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ... 93 »


@ July 7, 2014 6:52 PM in Getting into mod/con business

I lose you when you say that a mod/con can't reduce fuel consumption by 50%. How is that impossible? I can turn the boiler off completely, and it will save 100% fuel.


@ July 7, 2014 5:40 PM in Getting into mod/con business

Let's say that the average mod/con does only save $300-400 per year. The cost of my mod/con install versus a conventional boiler is maybe $2500. So the payback on cost difference is about 6.5 years. That seems VERY smart to me. Plus, each future install will be cheaper than the original one; venting and piping being salvaged for the next boiler.

Combustion efficiency may only be 20% better, but modulating can add another 30-50% in fuel usage reduction.


@ July 1, 2014 6:14 AM in New gas boiler sizing

Luckily you have the whole summer to find the right contractor; one that will perform a heat loss, and analyze the entire system to make sure that you'll be operating as efficiently as possible. Any heat loss numbers that we offer here will be a complete guess.


@ June 27, 2014 7:12 PM in Need to replace big old galvanized pipe with pex

You might be able to install 3/4" pipe. That's my point here. You can waste a lot of time and materials and money by guessing.


@ June 27, 2014 6:24 AM in Need to replace big old galvanized pipe with pex

We're neglecting half of the concern here. Yes, the 1" pipe might satisfy RESTRICTION and FLOW, but will it handle the required VOLUME?

It's not about's a healthy concern for implementing proper calculations learned from experience and study.


@ June 25, 2014 7:33 PM in Need to replace big old galvanized pipe with pex

It doesn't sound logical. You are just guessing at the 1" being the correct size. That is illogical.

Loop Seal

@ June 25, 2014 5:56 PM in One Pipe Steam - What Is This?

How high is the normal water line in that picture? It was probably acting as a steam trap to keep steam out of the returns.


@ June 23, 2014 10:39 PM in Need to replace big old galvanized pipe with pex

Point being...if you guess, you'll likely guess wrong. Proper calculations and design prevent a lot of wasted time/money/energy.


@ June 23, 2014 10:19 PM in Need help rating these radiators.

1. Upgrade the steam system
2. Save 30-50% on the fuel bill
3. Put that $400K towards something useful like feeding the hungry, or building shelter for the homeless.


@ June 23, 2014 9:32 PM in Need to replace big old galvanized pipe with pex

Here's the one answer that everybody hates hearing...It depends.

It depends on the heat loss of each room, and the ratings of the heat emitters. With those numbers, you'll need to calculate the required flow to each run. And then, after that, you'll be able to determine pipe size.


@ June 23, 2014 4:02 PM in Sales

A mod/con with a firetube HX is the ideal boiler for this application. You'll most likely be able to avoid primary/secondary piping and really simplify the entire system. Install it like a normal boiler, pumping away, and you'll be fine.


@ June 23, 2014 4:00 PM in Need help rating these radiators.

Why not keep the steam and add A/C separately?


@ June 23, 2014 8:49 AM in STEAM BOILER W/ INDIRECT help !!!!

I would be cautious about adding any BTUH's to the steam boiler. You'd be surprised at just how effective an indirect tank will be, even at lower input BTUH's.

At 14 showers, I would look for a First Hour Rating of 240. If your total BTUH's are close to 200K, you'll be fine not adding any extra.


@ June 19, 2014 9:01 PM in Adding a Radiator to an existing one pipe steam system

You should consult a steam pro. Where are you located? We may know somebody nearby.


@ June 19, 2014 5:01 PM in Oil to Gas conversion

A lot of bad information here.

I take care of some boilers that are 90+ years old and still operating. Is that long enough?

Not every chimney requires a metal liner. You DO NEED a qualified professional to inspect the chimney. You can't file permits without that certificate.


@ June 11, 2014 7:49 PM in Mega Steam conversion

Since this boiler has more back pressure in the chamber, you may need to go with one orifice size bigger than expected. The air adjustment will be determined by your combustion numbers. That's all I've found to be special about converting these. We converted one last month with good results. I don't see what the fuss is all about coming from Burnham.


@ June 11, 2014 12:45 PM in President

Whew, that's cutting it close. A drop header is essential here. I would use an oversized header and maybe even oversized boiler risers to accommodate the extra water in the piping. The drop header can be any height above the water line, but I wouldn't go any less than 10".


@ June 11, 2014 12:39 PM in Radiator identification needed to get EDR.

That looks like a SunRad or something similar behind a cabinet. It's probably close to 50 EDR. If you can count the sections, multiply that number by 2.25 for the rating. Any chance of getting the cover off for a picture?


@ June 11, 2014 6:19 AM in Adding on to existing Monoflo system

I would imagine that the distance of piping will lead to the greatest restriction. I would add a small circulator to the supply line to overcome that friction. You just need to calculate the flow vs. head for the circulator.


@ June 10, 2014 2:03 PM in Lochinvar ignition trouble

Verify the proper spark gap. Even if it sparks, the airflow may blow the arc off of the ignitor. You can also adjust the venturi ratio but will need an analyzer to verify the results.

Is this direct vent or Category IV?


@ June 10, 2014 2:00 PM in Home Owner

We use PEERLESS a lot. They have 3" boiler tappings and decent efficiency ratings. They also offer BTUH sizes down to 88K, which is close to the smallest size available. Never had any problems with them as long as the maintenance is done properly.


@ June 10, 2014 7:33 AM in Any comments

I would have gone to a 5" header. My charts show 3" as good for up to 140,000 BTUH. For the 5007B DOE output, a 3" header has the steam moving at over 56 ft/sec. A 5" header, at 20 ft/sec. My charts assume a 1PSI maximum cut-out.

Might not make a difference, but something to keep in mind for the next one.
« 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ... 93 »