Joined on February 27, 2010
Last Post on April 20, 2014
@ February 8, 2014 8:48 AM in Universal Brick Steam OvenSo, you don't think that a more shallow spray angle would help in this long tunnel of a combustion chamber?
As for the air, if you open the air adjustment more than 10% from fully closed, the burner shuts down, and never restarts properly.
@ February 8, 2014 8:36 AM in Idea's as to getting steam horizontally to farthest radiators at other end of house on first floor?Sometimes, a second opinion is needed to confirm my own suggestions.
@ February 7, 2014 7:03 PM in How to add a pic?Here's a photo of me adding a photo...
Look under the post box for File Attachment. Click on Choose File.
@ February 7, 2014 6:38 PM in Universal Brick Steam OvenToday, I got to work on an oil-fired brick oven from the 1920's. The only name on it was UNIVERSAL. Anybody have an instruction manual? Yeah right!
There was a set of two BECKETT RWB burners, with separate chambers, firing on 1.20 GPH. Intermittent problems, with too many hands on them. I took out 80 degree nozzles in favor of 60's. The chambers are 12"x12"x8ft deep. Adjusted the Z Dimension from where it was previously outside of the cone.
Here's the part that got me scratching my head. It's running on no air. Air shutter and damper are as low as they can go. My guess is that this thing is sucking so much draft that the burners don't need that big of an opening to get enough air.
They are working now. Anything I should keep in mind if they go down again? Was going to post this in the Oil section, but it was a STEAM oven, so here it is...
@ February 6, 2014 12:19 AM in Gas Company took the meterThis would never happen with steam.
@ February 5, 2014 12:54 PM in On the hunt for the main valveAnother quality job by Knucklehead Heating.
The piping is nowhere near correct. Find the installation instructions and hit the installers over the head with them. Demand that the piping be corrected.
@ February 5, 2014 8:58 AM in Oil to Gas conversionI don't see this as an appropriate public discussion. You can email me privately if you have a concern.
The only thing I will say here is that everything we do is done properly with the city. Licensing, permits, etc.
@ February 5, 2014 6:21 AM in Oil to Gas conversionWhy assume this person is a woman?
It's our job as a professional technician to be able to work on anything and everything. If you can't work on a power burner, you shouldn't be allowed to touch any gas appliance. They are just like every other piece of equipment; a combination of parts and knobs that need to be adjusted.
I test atmospheric boilers to have more CO problems than power burners. Draft hoods are the most dangerous item in your house. They do not work as advertised.
I work with a plumber/electrician who are licensed in the boroughs, so no worries there.
@ February 4, 2014 8:35 PM in An Epic Tale: I hear the Trane a comin'!Nice! How did you not find CG before?!?! And why did I think you were in California? Great news all around. Those combustion numbers look very good.
What are you doing for venting right now?
@ February 4, 2014 6:13 PM in Richardson systemThis vapor system should not operate above 5 ounces of pressure. 3oz should be your cut-out. A Vaporstat is a necessity here.
I would install a bunch of Gorton 2's or thermostatic traps on the returns for venting.
@ February 3, 2014 9:02 PM in RisersI always double a 2" riser. If it's 3", on smaller models, I'll only use one. As long as the velocities are within acceptable limits and the pressure is very low (ounces), we've had no problems with it. We just make sure to always use the riser on the same side as the gauge glass. The extra riser opening is a great place for a Vaporstat.
@ February 3, 2014 8:55 PM in Air vent leaking on 1-pipe steam radiatorCan you get more pictures from the left side of the boiler, with the return piping?
Any main vents?
@ February 3, 2014 6:03 AM in I think I have a stream radiator. Definitely have a high pitched whistle problem!Where are you located? We may know a boiler expert who can help.
@ February 2, 2014 10:42 PM in Mystery Pipes? ...or just a dumb question?It's incredibly rare to see but that system actually looks like it was installed correctly. Congratulations. You picked a winner.
@ February 2, 2014 10:41 PM in Orifice PlatesIn a gravity system, the water will favor the highest level because of the hot water's buoyancy. The orifice plates were added to add resistance to the upper level radiators, and force water into the lower levels.
In a pumped system, the water will favor the lower levels because they have less resistance (less pipe and fittings).
If you just blindly add a circulator to a gravity system with orifice plates, you'll end up overheating the lower levels, and losing most/all flow in the upper levels.
@ February 2, 2014 10:37 PM in seeking advice on new propane boiler selectionMy guess is that the pool will require a much higher load than the rest of the system, making the boiler way oversized in the winter.
@ February 2, 2014 10:33 PM in Counterflow + dry return = trouble?There would be certain piping techniques used for a counter-flow system. They are easier to identify in person. I would just assume that this is not a counter-flow system.
Your biggest, and maybe only, issue is the boiler piping.
@ February 2, 2014 10:29 PM in I think I have a stream radiator. Definitely have a high pitched whistle problem!I would be cautious. First, find out exactly what kind of system you have. If it's hot water, you'll make a huge mess trying to open any of the valves or piping.
@ February 2, 2014 10:27 PM in main vent shooting water!Message me privately and we can talk about a consultation.
@ February 2, 2014 3:28 PM in piping down right ?helpNo, not even close. At least it's not copper.
@ February 2, 2014 2:02 PM in Counterflow + dry return = trouble?The return looks close to original. The size is based on the attached load from the main. No guessing allowed!
If it's a true counter-flow, the extra return won't matter. It does need a proper drip return near the boiler, though.