Joined on February 27, 2010
Last Post on December 5, 2013
@ August 18, 2012 8:58 PM in Utica Starfire 3 steam boiler- oil burner conversion to gas burnerI tried sending you a private message. I'd be more than happy to take a look at your system.
@ August 16, 2012 10:53 PM in MIT 'reverse air conditioner'A heat pump without a reversing valve?
@ August 16, 2012 10:50 PM in wet return questionI would at least drop the end of the return down to the floor before rising up into the Hartford Loop/equalizer. That should be easy, because you'll need to cut those pipes anyway to remove the old boiler.
@ August 16, 2012 10:46 PM in Another W-M SGO questionWhat's your method for testing the boiler for leaks? A visual from the chimney? Signs of water vapor in the vent connection?
@ August 16, 2012 11:58 AM in Contractor in CT neededWe would love to see some pictures. Then we can lead you in the right direction, if you can't find a contractor in the immediate area.
@ August 16, 2012 11:56 AM in wet return questionI would favor a dry return over a wet return, whenever possible. I've noticed that a return like yours, with so much pitch toward the boiler, does not cause as many issues as you would think, as long as the return drops fully below the water line. It's the truly horizontal pipes that may be a concern.
You could always fix the piping after the new boiler is installed. See how it reacts, and gauge its priority.
@ August 16, 2012 8:41 AM in Utica Starfire 3 steam boiler- oil burner conversion to gas burnerI need to get on the Find A Contractor page real quick.
@ August 14, 2012 9:13 PM in School me on double-swing draft regulatorsIt is dangerous, and that's why you should install a backdraft safety on the damper to shut down the system.
The theory is that if the chimney is ever blocked, the appliance will create less CO by venting directly into the living space than if the draft is reduced so much that the appliance begins to "reburn" the exhaust, or cause a severe flame roll out.
@ August 14, 2012 8:54 PM in Pri/Sec piping single stage boiler controls ?If you want to keep it incredibly simple, you can use a Switching Relay to let the thermostat turn on the system pump, and close the reset control's demand contacts. Then the reset control will turn on the boiler pump and burners.
@ August 14, 2012 8:50 PM in Water Gauge ToolI seem to keep buying "cheap" water pressure gauges...I would like to buy one that will last. Any suggestions on a brand or type? I mainly need it for 0 to 50 psi.
@ January 24, 2012 6:57 PM in Burner output at various gas pressures....Working on a modulating furnace?
I have a chart for pressures 3.0 to 4.0, but no lower than that. I also have a tech book for York modulating furnaces that shows BTUH output per every step of modulation. Could that help?
@ January 23, 2012 10:04 PM in burner got wetI might agree with you on the burners if they are stainless steel, but I've seen burner manifolds and black iron rot from the inside out after weeks of being "dry". And pilot orifices aren't very tolerant of debris.
Safety over sorrow. Always.
@ January 23, 2012 6:29 AM in burner got wetAnything that got wet needs to be replaced. I've seen equipment "dried out", then a week or a month later, it caught fire, exploded, or just stopped working. Don't take a chance.
@ January 20, 2012 6:22 AM in 1 Boiler - 2 Zones - 2 BillsI found those as well. My question was, do they just calculate the amount of BTUH in that one zone, or do they actually tally up and keep track of how many BTU's are being delivered over time?
@ January 18, 2012 10:47 PM in 1 Boiler - 2 Zones - 2 BillsI also was leaning towards a timer. Didn't know of a particular type that would do it. Plus, run time of the zones doesn't necessarily reflect the burner run time. Zone 1 could heat the boiler, then zone 2 pops on and steals all the heat "for free". And the zones would be on the clock if the boiler ever shut down on safety or another failure.
@ January 18, 2012 9:13 PM in 1 Boiler - 2 Zones - 2 BillsSo, I get a phone call today from a customer who owns the store front attached to a 2nd floor apartment. The landlord just had somebody replace the boiler. The landlord wants the store owner to pay for 66% of the gas bill even though they use the least amount of heat (freezer compressors dump a lot of heat into the store).
So, I had this vision of splitting the gas line to the boiler with separate gas meters and solenoid valves that would be energized by the individual zones. Does this sound practical or possible? The piping would have to be symmetrical to be accurate. Do you think, if both solenoid valves are open at the same time, that the meters would read the same CFH or the total CFH divided in half?
Most importantly...is there an easier solution? I've been researching BTU meters for the hydronic lines, but (hate to say it) they are damn expensive!
@ January 15, 2012 12:46 PM in a puzzle for all you super-smart steamiesSo, this method basically converts hot-water radiators into steam radiators?
@ January 11, 2012 8:23 AM in mono flow bluesYes you can! In fact, that's how the principle of Primary/Secondary piping came into this world. You can read about that in some of Dan's books.
Just size the pump for your connected baseboard run, and have it pump away from the Monoflo main on the loop's supply line.
But, out of curiosity...has this ever worked properly? Was it added to the system?
@ January 11, 2012 8:15 AM in condensationI'm always suspicious of outside combustion air. What happens when it rains or snows? All that humidity is going to be sucked in to the furnace. I've also had a manufacturer's rep tell our company that when the A/C is running, the furnace will become cooler, and outdoor air will travel into the combustion box and condense. In any case, it's a "necessary" design flaw to use outside combustion air. You start to realize how important the maintenance of these 90% systems really is. And how terribly difficult most of them are to maintain. Some of those burner boxes are just down right impossible to access.
@ January 4, 2012 10:04 PM in The Munchkin 80m walk of shame.Things I would check...
Proper spark gap. Even if it sparks. Check it anyway.
Proper voltage to the flame sensor. (Couldn't find what it should be. Somebody here may know.)
All burner gaskets should be free from damage/leaks.
Verify proper combustion piping.
Do you have any combustion results? The way you have to "cheat it", sounds like an inconsistent flame. Has the burner been cleaned or replaced? Flue passages clean and clear?
@ January 1, 2012 8:07 PM in have a question what to do withy a steam fittingIn that case....GOOD LUCK!
You might try to get a very long sawzall blade and make a few cuts in the fitting, then try to chip it off without damaging the pipe threads. Second option is to open up the floor.