Joined on February 27, 2010
Last Post on December 9, 2013
@ November 5, 2011 9:04 PM in Hot Water System Air Problem & QuestionsHe'd have to check the nameplate, but I believe the boiler is rated up to 50PSI with a maximum allowable working pressure of 30. So maybe 25 is the maximum setting to allow the expansion up to 30.
@ November 5, 2011 6:28 AM in Hot Water System Air Problem & QuestionsThe pump is on the supply, but it's before the expansion tank, which makes it the same as if it were on the return. The circulator should be after the tank. And as touched on before, the static fill pressure needs to be a minimum of 24 PSI. I would go to 30 PSI to be safe. The relief valve has to be rated for the extra pressure, and the expansion tank air pressure needs to be increased to the same as the water pressure.
@ November 3, 2011 6:30 AM in Pressuretrol won't shut offThe pigtail needs to be cleaned. It's probably blocked up, preventing the pressuretrol from working properly.
The main vents will start to leak at higher pressures. Sometimes they hiss steam, other times they shoot water. Now would be a good time to replace them. You can go to a local supply house and ask for Gorton main vents. They should be a little easier on the wallet, and work very well.
@ November 2, 2011 8:55 PM in Zone valve Doesnt open when thermostat calls for heatProper diagnostics avoids changing random parts.
Make sure the thermostat is working, and the wires are in good shape.
@ November 1, 2011 6:12 PM in hydro vs. hot air?Sounds like you've never had a good steam guy at your house. I would never recommend forced air to anybody. Not even my mother in law!
Steam can be very comfortable and efficient if set up properly.
@ November 1, 2011 6:06 PM in Hydronic help needed for completing an installationWhat's wrong with the expansion tank? It belongs on the supply. But the circulator should be after the tank on the supply as well.
What exactly would you like advise on as far as the system goes?
@ November 1, 2011 6:04 PM in Sudden no gas for pilot light, hot water heating systemBefore Tim gets hold of this thread, I would check out the Gas Heating forum and pick any thread with the word pilot in it.
I'd also make sure that the gas valve knob depresses completely, allowing the gas to flow to the pilot.
@ November 1, 2011 6:40 AM in Effecient steam gas boiler installationIf "release valve" means "air vent" then yes, the more venting on the mains, the better.You want the steam to fill the main as fast as possible.
I don't know what an "anti knock valve" is.
@ November 1, 2011 6:35 AM in Does a Condensate Unit Need to be Vented?http://www.deppmann.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/wc_iom.pdf
Second page, under Installation > Piping Vent
It absolutely needs a vent. Do you have any other air vents on the system? If not, the tank is the air vent. Also, the tank vent acts as a safety overflow, so that it does not become over pressurized, causing a very dangerous failure.
@ October 31, 2011 10:17 PM in Mix & Match & Tekmar 256I would not jump out the Tekmar Demand terminals or it will always want to fire the boiler. You should wire the Tekmar boiler contacts in series with the wire going to TH-W on the spark module. That will let the Tekmar act as the high limit. Set the aquastat for 20F higher than the Tekmar limit.
To create a "call for heat", you could do a few things. The easiest would be to run B1 and B2 to 7 and 9 on the Tekmar. Then jumper 7 and 8. The Tekmar would only be powered with a call for heat, so you'd have a blank screen when there is no call. Could be annoying. This sounds okay in theory, but I would predict a lot of quirky issues associated with this set-up.
The other way is to add another relay into the circuit. Have the L8148E energize the coil from the B1/B2 circuit. One set of contacts will send power to the spark module. The other contacts send the Tekmar's signal back to itself as a call for heat through 7 and 9.
And remember...use fuses!
@ October 28, 2011 6:27 AM in What are the Downside of undersized boiler.Did you already figure in a pick-up factor for system piping? Are the mains insulated? If not, that could add up to another 20%. That makes your required output 342 sq.ft. I'd go with the 138K boiler. A little extra pick-up won't hurt any. Undersizing will cause problems, even on mild days. Certain rooms may never get close to comfortable.
@ October 27, 2011 10:45 PM in PLEASE HELP --- WAS THIS PIPING DONE CORRECTDoesn't look up to manufacturer's specs. That side pipe might be used for skimming. You'd have to ask the installer. Do you have the installation manual or a boiler model number?
@ October 26, 2011 6:29 PM in hot water zone off a steam boilerTypically no more than 30% of the steam capacity, or the added pick-up factor. The hot water loop should be an after-thought to the size of the steam boiler.
@ October 22, 2011 8:18 PM in Need some help sizing a room up.What city/state do you live in?
How many square feet of windows? Doors?
What type of windows, doors?
@ October 20, 2011 8:51 PM in Honeywell T-statPop off the round ring by hand. There should be 3 set screws to loosen, but they won't come out. One is hiding behind the mercury bulb.
@ October 19, 2011 7:32 PM in condensing furnace in atticSounds sketchy. Can you insulate the attic, and condition it with the furnace?
@ October 19, 2011 7:30 PM in Is there too much water in my boiler?Could be that some of the near boiler piping isn't within normal standards, making the waterline more critical than usual. Sometimes you see the entire system full of water, but a plugged up sight glass gives a false reading for normal level.
@ October 19, 2011 5:29 PM in Steam SizingI'm no expert at sizing for this kind of application, but I'll do some math and hopefully somebody chimes in with their advice.
1300 Gallons = 10,842 Pounds of Water
140F Water, if starting at 50F makes a 90F rise.
So you would need 975,780 BTUH.
With a 2" steam supply, you would need 37 PSI steam pressure to maintain that BTUH rating.
Again, don't take this for fact. Want to see what others say about it.
@ October 19, 2011 4:53 PM in Gravity Boiler heating issuesSo the system worked fine. You made changes. Now the systems doesn't work fine. But you don't think the two are related? I would keep all possibilities open.
When you were bleeding, did you get a lot of air, or mostly water?
It's possible that you did not fill the system correctly. You need to add water slowly, venting all of the first level radiators at the same time, then closing them off and work your way to the second floor. If you filled all the piping, then tried to bleed afterwards, you are going to create points of low pressure which will let air in through the open vent on the roof.
Pictures would be nice. Or at least a drawing of before and after the changes you made.
@ October 19, 2011 2:32 PM in Furnace Filter SlotAny time you have an opening in the return ductwork, there is the risk that the furnace blower will draw in exhaust air from the mechanical area. It should be sealed, if only for safety concerns.
@ October 19, 2011 6:29 AM in Barometric Damper Upgrade to Atmospheric Gas SteamYou only need a barometric damper if the boiler is drafting too much. I would do the combustion analysis first to decide if one is necessary.
@ October 17, 2011 5:15 PM in IBR baseboard ratingsNot exactly what you're looking for, but I have this graph...
Just a few calculations get you the same numbers.