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Joined on February 27, 2010

Last Post on July 23, 2014

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@ December 29, 2011 6:09 AM in vent filling with water?

Can we see pictures of where the radiator is piped off of the main?

And here's a thought outside of the box...

The radiator is on the edge of the stairs, right? Maybe the natural air currents in the stairwell are cooling the air-vent side of the radiator faster than the other side, causing the steam to condense unevenly. And since the air vent is thinner metal than the radiator, the condensate will form there first.


@ December 24, 2011 9:38 PM in Looking for a book

I may have an extra copy. I'll write back when I find it.


@ December 22, 2011 8:13 PM in More Draft With Damper Closed

When I first tested, I believe it was a rather warm day (can't believe I'm saying that in December). I want to revisit after the new warranty boiler is in place. Hopefully the outdoor temperature is a bit cooler, and I can do some CAZ testing.

I may even take some pictures.


@ December 22, 2011 7:57 PM in Help setting proper pressure for steam boiler.

Do you have any steam leaks? At the radiators, or in the piping? If the steam leaks out fast enough it may be dropping pressure very quickly. Is the boiler losing water during its cycle?

You can also try to raise the main PSI setting to a point where it settles out. But the lower the better.


@ December 22, 2011 7:50 PM in Old Steam system

Not a huge concern. Ideally, the supply should enter the top, and exit the bottom. In a pumped system, there is no longer any gravity working on the water. Are the radiators heating properly?


@ December 21, 2011 11:07 PM in Help setting proper pressure for steam boiler.

Oh boy, that's high!

Set the main at 1 psi. Set the differential at 1 psi. It's not printed, but go halfway between 0 and 2. You may have to fine tune it later on if it causes problems. You should never need to run above 2 psi on a residential boiler.

Main is the cut-out pressure. Differential is the number subtracted from the main, and sets the cut-in pressure.


@ December 21, 2011 10:54 PM in More Draft With Damper Closed

I'm thinking, as well, that this is just a non-issue phenomenon. The draft isn't really rising. The perceived strength of the draft is rising. It's all relative?

There is a 90 right on top of the vent damper, one foot of pipe, two 45's, and 2 feet of pipe to the chimney. Very limited space to make any changes.

So, my initial draft is still too low. I think the chimney is on the same horizontal plane as the roof from the higher part of the house. It's a split level, and the chimney is on the outside wall of the lower (middle) level.

There is a natural-draft water heater as well. Get the same readings at the hood.


@ December 21, 2011 9:02 PM in More Draft With Damper Closed

Utica MGB has the front-style draft hood, or breech. The vent damper is right on top of the boiler. Draft readings were taken immediately after the damper. There is no barometric damper.

I get the same results whether the boiler is fired or not. I can cycle the damper open and closed by tripping the relay.

More Draft With Damper Closed

@ December 21, 2011 8:03 AM in More Draft With Damper Closed

Utica MGB100HID

Boiler had a leaking section covered under warranty. While I was there, the customer had previous complaints about an "exhaust smell" so I start checking draft. With the boiler running, I have -0.005" WC. When the boiler shuts down on temperature, the vent damper closes and my draft goes up to -0.03"WC.

There is a 6" flexible liner approximately 20 feet in length. Could it be oversized? Too short? My charts have it looking acceptable. 100K boiler with a 40K water heater.

When the damper closes. is it just accelerating the draft that's there already?


@ December 21, 2011 7:59 AM in Intermittent problems igniting boiler

I'd verify spark gap, and good grounding. If it only happens when the weather drops, I'd check for proper draft conditions in the chimney and through the boiler.


@ December 21, 2011 7:53 AM in Unique radiator (pic included) and proper pitch assistance needed

It depends on the amount of radiators connected to that pipe. He needs to know the EDR of the radiator, then match the piping to handle the amount of condensate produced.

What size is the riser pipe? Bigger than 3/4"?


@ December 21, 2011 7:46 AM in Gas Conversion Burner

I converted my own system with a Wayne Conversion Burner. Have it fired at 40MBTUH (slightly derated). Tuned up, it's running over 80% efficient. It cost a couple hundred at the time. I think it's a great option for a lower cost job. Just make sure you follow all of the directions...even the "suggested" ones!


@ December 21, 2011 7:41 AM in Icesaylor, Mark Eatherton, Timmy McElwain..............

Try removing the ignitor cable and rechecking voltage. Sometimes a faulty or grounded ignitor will draw too much power from the module and cause a voltage drop in the circuit. Also check 24V with and without load.


@ December 20, 2011 9:26 PM in Unique radiator (pic included) and proper pitch assistance needed

Steam capacity charts don't list 3/4" pipe for one-pipe steam. 3/4" pipe just isn't large enough to handle steam and condensate moving in opposite directions.

Are there any problems with this radiator? Noises, hissing?


@ December 20, 2011 9:11 PM in Unique radiator (pic included) and proper pitch assistance needed

No good. good.

You can't win in this situation. The piping arrangement does not allow the radiator to be pitched in any direction. I would try to lower the copper pipe, or have it redone to turn downwards immediately out of the radiator and then run the pipe to the left.

Is that 3/4" copper?!


@ December 17, 2011 8:09 PM in Burners wont lite consistently

I'd suspect poor igniter placement or very dirty burners. Possibly blocked orifices.

Did you measure manifold gas pressure?


@ December 17, 2011 2:53 PM in Weil McLain Gold GV Series 2 with Honeywell S9201a module - intermittent issues

Where in NJ are you? I'd be happy to service your boiler if the problem persists.


@ December 17, 2011 2:49 PM in Burners wont lite consistently

Are you a homeowner or contractor?


@ December 17, 2011 10:15 AM in ID Hot Water Convector

I agree. We're sizing the boiler to the heat loss. We just want to verify the radiation, and possibly modulate the water temperature to save some money. Makes them happy, and makes us look good.


@ December 17, 2011 10:04 AM in ID Hot Water Convector

Looks like the closest so far. Thanks for the help.


@ December 17, 2011 9:21 AM in ID Hot Water Convector

That's what we're going to fall back on, but the convectors have several passes of fin-tube. I wasn't sure if the rating would be greater than the total sum of all the passes individually.

ID Hot Water Convector

@ December 16, 2011 6:52 PM in ID Hot Water Convector

Our manager was at a church to work up a boiler replacement. Wanted to get the ratings from all of the convectors. Couldn't find any information on these units. He said they looked like multiple rows of copper fin-tube. I found some that were very close, but not exact.

It's a hot water system, so the connected load is only needed to determine water temperature and as a reference against the building heat loss.
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