Joined on February 27, 2010
Last Post on July 23, 2014
@ March 14, 2010 8:31 AM in New to steam - need help with start upVery, very highly recommend that you also purchase the Vent Capacity Chart from this website. It will let you know exactly what the air in your system is doing, and how to make the right changes.
@ March 14, 2010 8:22 AM in noisy vents...that the radiators are pitched towards the valve, and that the valves are completely open?
@ March 13, 2010 8:51 PM in radiant drying rack?Have you looked at the designs for some simple towel warmers? Then you could pipe it in with a zone valve and wall switch or aquastat to turn it on.
@ March 13, 2010 8:29 PM in radiant drying rack?I might have seen it in the EDR book or somewhere else, but a similar concept has been done for kitchen cabinets to keep food warm. I forget exactly what it was called.
@ March 13, 2010 7:19 PM in relief valveTry adjusting your pressure back down to about 6 psi. If the pump is giving you a 10 delta P, you're coming pretty close to the relief pressure. It sounds like water is being fed in when the pump runs. Since the highest loop is less than 5 feet above the boiler, you won't need a lot of fill pressure.
@ March 13, 2010 11:56 AM in relief valveWhat's the height of the highest system pipe in the house? Also, how much pipe is between the supply pipe and expansion tank, and what size?
@ March 13, 2010 11:50 AM in What do you think?Every part should come with a flanged option.
@ March 13, 2010 11:48 AM in steam baseboard?Just be aware of proper pitch Using only 4 feet of baseboard, means one side will start 2" high. With 15" clearance, you shouldn't have a problem.
@ March 13, 2010 7:24 AM in New to steam - need help with start upSo, the system is one pipe but the radiator is two pipe. Initially, that sounds like a good way to separate steam and condensate in the radiator.
@ March 13, 2010 7:17 AM in relief valveWhere is the water feed piped to in relation to the pump and expansion tank?
@ March 13, 2010 7:13 AM in hydrotherm sg-200? HammerI would first repipe the entire near boiler. That will give you the best chance of solving the water hammer. Lower the water line back to normal and set your pressure to cut out at 2.
Insulated pipes will stop steam from condensing, but it won't tell water that's already there to go back. Sounds like the water is coming straight from the boiler.
When you say "half of the risers are piped directly down into header." Do you mean the risers to the radiators coming off the main?
@ March 13, 2010 7:06 AM in Please help!The Hartford Loop isn't piped properly.
Make sure the connection between the return and the
equalizer is far enough below the boiler's water line. If steam can
work it's way down the equalizer and into the wet return it will
hammer, and usually at the end of the cycle.
See if there's a long nipple on the Hartford Loop. Long nipples create
water hammer as the condensate returns. Replace the long nipple with
either a close nipple or a wye fitting.
-from A Pocketful of Steam Problems.
@ March 13, 2010 7:03 AM in New to steam - need help with start upThe water line will always bounce a little. The calmer the better, but you can't expect 212+ degree water to sit still. As long as it doesn't move up and down the whole length of the sight glass, you'll generally be okay. In your case, the pair of bullheaded tees could be causing a little back pressure and rocking the water line a bit.
@ March 12, 2010 7:10 PM in Please help!Do you know how to find the EDR rating for radiators? If you find those numbers, we can compare them to the capacity of a 1 1/4" pipe.
Also, what pressure are you running at?
@ March 12, 2010 6:18 PM in Counter FlowI don't see too many counter flow systems, but typically they use one pipe radiators, and don't need a drip riser. Are you having any problems with the system?
I know we would all love to see some pictures if you're able.
@ March 11, 2010 10:03 PM in Water Hammer and high PItched Whine - 2 pipe steam heatI would get rid of the air vent entirely by plugging it , and keep the steam trap. I would also like to see some close up pictures of where the older (white) pipe meets the newer (black) pipe.
@ March 11, 2010 9:26 PM in Insulate the riser's?Uninsulated pipes in the wall = wall radiation?
I can't see it being a huge energy loss if you don't insulate the risers in the wall, unless they are on an outside wall.
@ March 11, 2010 9:24 PM in Water Hammer and high PItched Whine - 2 pipe steam heatIt's not really a steam vent, because it's never supposed to vent steam. It's an air vent. All it does is vent out atmospheric air so steam can fill the radiator. Steam should never come out of the vent. Typically, you would never have these vents on a two pipe system. That's what the steam trap is for. It's an air vent first, and then a return pipe second. You can either have a trap, or a vent, not both.
@ March 11, 2010 8:13 PM in Water Hammer and high PItched Whine - 2 pipe steam heatSo the radiator wouldn't explode? I'm sorry. That is incorrect. Steam should never come out of an air vent. Unless it's broken. Ask him if he added vents to all the radiators and if they had them before.
@ March 11, 2010 8:09 PM in Water Hammer and high PItched Whine - 2 pipe steam heat...plugging the air vent tapping (1/8"). The steam trap is an air vent until it's filled with water. I'm imagining the air vent is what's causing your noise.
@ March 11, 2010 7:59 PM in Water Hammer and high PItched Whine - 2 pipe steam heatYour terminology is correct. So, are the other radiators piped with both a trap and a vent?
@ March 11, 2010 7:55 PM in Water Hammer and high PItched Whine - 2 pipe steam heatAnd a radiator vent? Do all of the other radiators in the building have an air vent on them?