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Joined on February 27, 2010

Last Post on August 17, 2014

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Depends what make...

@ March 30, 2010 5:59 AM in Triple acting relay

 I have a Honeywell Triple Acting Relay. I found the lead wire for the low limit setting and disconnected it (simple spade connector). If you find the wiring schematics, you can find the right wire, or post a model number for the relay and we'll find something.


@ March 30, 2010 5:56 AM in 2 over-sized boiler questions

Your boiler rating of 168K is for input or output BTUH? You need a boiler whose output rating matches your connected load. So maybe you're not 50% oversized...maybe you're only 50% efficient.

Wrong Location.

@ March 30, 2010 5:51 AM in Hot Forced Air - stale air / dry mouth

First floor humidistat is in the wrong location. Right now it is downstream of the humidifier. That means it will satisfy as soon as the furnace blower comes on. You need to have it moved to the return. Personally, I always put the humidifier on the return, and the humidistat as far upstream on the return as possible, while still sensing every return in the house. Usually, that means, the humidifier is about chest high, and the humidistat is a good foot higher.

Second floor humidifier is in a closet? And the duct run for it goes to the return ceiling box? That seems kind of sketchy. But the installers also didn't make a return plenum on the furnace so it would be hard to run that supply duct to there.

When you look at your system, try to think about where the humidity wants to go, and where the humidistat is sensing the air.

How was the boiler sized?

@ March 29, 2010 7:53 PM in 2 over-sized boiler questions

Did you measure all of your radiators? How did you come to the conclusion that your boiler is oversized?

I would personally keep steam temperatures constant throughout the day. I like to keep all of those pipes and radiators from getting too cold when the boiler first cycles on.

Boiler specs.

@ March 29, 2010 7:50 PM in my radiators sound like the wind!

How many BTUH output is the boiler? Do you have pictures of the near boiler piping? Can you get pictures of the problem radiators, count the columns and take measurements of width, height, and depth? Can you also see where the troubled radiator supply pipes take off of the steam main? Do they stay the same size the whole way, or are the radiator valves a smaller size than the pipe closest to the main?

Happy Endings.

@ March 29, 2010 7:44 PM in Phantom Air

Can't wait for next winter!

It's a shame.

@ March 29, 2010 5:50 AM in Cool Wall Radiators

Every day at work, I drive past houses, and see junkmen taking old radiators out to their trucks, and I'm assuming to the junkyard.

We should start a Dead Men Library. Save the radiators and parts from the scrap yard for the people who still appreciate the older systems.

I also asked the ebay seller to relist the items. If he'll unload them for a dollar, I'll snatch 'em up.


@ March 28, 2010 8:54 PM in Hot Forced Air - stale air / dry mouth

Welcome to forced hot air.

What are your humidifiers set to? What do you mean by "heat switch one notch down"?


@ March 28, 2010 10:22 AM in Cool Wall Radiators

I live about 5 miles from where this ebay seller is listed. If anybody wants these radiators, I would be more than happy to pick them up and store them for further use.


@ March 27, 2010 8:32 PM in



@ March 27, 2010 7:40 PM in O & B TERMINALS

...on the exact system, and the way the t-stat is set up, but typically O/B will energize the reversing valve for cooling. You'd wire this terminal on the t-stat to the air handler and condenser.


@ March 27, 2010 10:17 AM in How Far Down?

Do you have a picture of how your near boiler is piped? What size is the equalizer line? A few things can cause surging.


@ March 27, 2010 7:16 AM in How Far Down?

I was referring to the supply risers coming out of the boiler. If you had just one tapping used, you could get false readings in the sight glass.

If you aren't getting any water hammer, or major problems, I wouldn't be overly concerned about long as the water eventually comes back on its own and the water feeder doesn't add water every time the boiler cycles.

If you have the factory installed Hydrolevel CycleGuard, there will be a 15 second delay between sensing low water, and shutting the boiler down. Does your water line bounce up and down in the glass a lot when the boiler's running? Or does it just gradually go down throughout the cycle?


@ March 27, 2010 7:04 AM in Phantom Air

No separation at all. They are true "compression" tanks, because the water pressure compresses the air inside the tank.

Whew...someone else asked first.

@ March 26, 2010 9:15 PM in Phantom Air

I would say, just cut out the old steel tank and leave the diaphragm tank in place (properly sized). I can't imagine why you would keep them both. And it would seem that the old steel tank is no longer used for compression, but as an air storage tank.

Water feed location.

@ March 26, 2010 6:28 PM in Water feed location.

I went to a warranty call today to replace a leaking hydronic boiler. Noticed the guy who originally did the install from our company piped the water feed like this because "It works better when you fill it from the bottom" (Quote from the guy he was with that day).

I tested pressures in a couple of different spots:

1. A boiler drain right where the feed ties in, between the pump and boiler. : 15psi

2. Tank air pressure - empty: 12psi

3. Tank air pressure - cold filled: 14psi

4. (Not pictured) Return purge-drains with pump running:  10psi

Is this not that big of a problem because the feed is on the supply side of the pump? There's also no hope of convincing this guy that anything he does is wrong. I would just like to know for my own well being, and maybe one day he'll acknowledge a second opinion, with some cold hard facts behind it.

Near boiler.

@ March 26, 2010 6:08 PM in How Far Down?

Are you using both supply taps? Does the boiler shut down on low water?

The water line can normally go as low as the bottom sight glass fitting.


@ March 25, 2010 6:01 PM in Help IDing Radiator



@ March 25, 2010 5:56 PM in Hartford Loop

....seeks it's own level. Raise the water level in the return, and the water will rise in the loop. The only thing stopping it from returning to the boiler, is the system pressure. That's where the A Dimension and unspent main pressure comes in to push it along.


@ March 24, 2010 6:02 PM in Skimming

This is how I skim...

Open the skim port. Manually feed water in at a trickle, just til the water is streaming from the tap (so it looks like the boiler is peeing). Shut off the water feed, and run the boiler. The heat will keep the water pouring out on its own. If the water starts to shoot out violently, shut the boiler off. Repeat is necessary.

Oh man.

@ March 23, 2010 8:43 PM in Does steam look like this

I can see it now...bringing my laptop on every steam service call...Look, Miss! This is what is happening right now!


@ March 23, 2010 7:37 PM in Radiator help what is the difference between these?!

Looks like the key is a manual air vent.  How old is the house?
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