Heating Help

fieldpiece SOX2?

@ December 28, 2011 3:21 AM in combustion analysis

If anyone knows about the sensor, and if it's replaceable please post.

Oh yea,  I would love to read the post on the HVAC technician who built his own O2
sensor out of a wide band  Lambda sensor?  I can't find the post. 

fieldpiece SOX2?

@ December 28, 2011 3:21 AM in combustion analysis

1.  The  fieldpiece SOX2 looks like a great deal?

2.  I need to find out if the sensor is replaceable, and at what cost?

3.  I honestly feel the, "You need to buy a Quality instrument when dealing with
combustion analysis!!"  are company reps for the competition over priced O2 sensors?
(I would really like to ban all Company Reps--period--from these boards)

4.  Fieldpiece has deep pockets.  Why would they risk a lawsuit over a cheap meter?

5.   A $200.00 meter is a great buy.  In two years it will pay for itself if your a DIY
guy.  Plus you can fine tune your heat source more than once a year.

6.  Bachyrach, Testo, and UEI need competition--badly. 

I wish there was more competition!

@ October 24, 2011 12:01 PM in combustion analyzer

  

I would love to see some more companies producing combustion analyzers.

Hopefully the price will come down with competition?

If I was running Bacharach--the O2 sensors would be sold at cost, plus shipping. 
I think it would be a good marketing tool and more guy's would upgrade.  Plus,
if the price was right you could use them to tune up your truck--carb adjusting,
pre smog work, etc?

I once of heard of a guy who made his own oxygen sensor.  He used an automotive
O2 sensor.  If anyone knows how he put it together, I would be interested.
And don't worry--I'm not going to use it on a furnace/boiler--just curious. 

On second thought--

@ October 22, 2011 1:02 PM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

Hello-

      I've gotten more than a few emails asking for advise installing a Radiant system.
I am Not a qualified professional.  I made a lousy video and I guess some of you
thought if this idiot can do it-- I can?  I don't think this is a DIY project.  It is Not a do it yourself project.

I think you should have a qualified professional like, Alan Forbes(California Radiant),
build your system.  They have the expertise, know the dangers of CO, have the new digital combustion analyzers--plus they get the parts cheaper.  A guy in an adjacent town just blew up his basement working with natural gas.  I think he's O.K., but every year
someone gets hurt.

I will still answer any questions, but just as a layperson.

thanks--

@ October 22, 2011 12:01 PM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

Thanks for the advise.

I got a used Bacharach chemical tester off Ebay, and I made a manometer.
Everything seemed to check out, but I will take your advise and have a professional
double check it.

I used the Ph kit Weil Mclain provided and the Ph color was yellow--the color they claim it should turn.

Again thanks--Any advise is appreciated--I just looked at what Weil Mclain is charging for parts, and it's very high. 

Finally finished Weil Mclain boiler install!

@ October 21, 2011 4:06 AM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

After a lot of procrastination, two cords of wood, it's pretty much done.
(Need condensate pump, strap everything, and insulate the Uponor)

1.   I want to thank the people on this site, especially Alan Forbes(radiant heating).
He knows his trade and is a nice guy too.  Alan, if you happen to read this, I feel
you should be teaching, or authoring a book on radiant heating.  The books out there are too basic, or too advance(to many charts and equations), or just give you
half the information.

2.  I tried to buy the boiler and baseboard locally, but No one returned my emails,
and I have a Contractors license--just a B, not a HVAC license. I didn't tell the supply houses I had a contractor's license--I figured a sale is a sale.  I was wrong.   Alan offered his assistance, if I ran into trouble procuring materials, but I didn't want take him up on his offer without paying him.  I ended up buying off the internet.  It went O.K., but buy locally if you can.  I've noticed the site(the site I used) I used is getting bigger, by the month, and so are their prices, but they got the order right(just a few mistakes).
I don't like their warranty policy though.  My boiler came with a defective display unit.
They want the part returned in order to replace the part--crazy(IMO), but that's their policy.  If they didn't have that screwed up return policy, I mention their name.  For an
internet company I was impressed.

Oh yea, the clock and the date  function on the Weil Mclain ultra boilers are only their for  remembering faults--if any, and the clock is in the display module, not the ultra
main control board.  One more item;  when you unpack your boiler check every bolt and nut.  I had a wire missing, and a missing bolt(an important bolt). 



3.  Here's a link to my boiler.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zq43kykunI

4.  If anyone needs basic assistance on a project like this(basic boiler and baseboard);  feel free to email me.

Again thanks heatinghelp---and Alan Forbes(Radiant Heating)

possible solution to the original problem?

@ June 21, 2011 9:22 PM in Weil Mclain Ultra constant problems

   I'm not a professional,but I would make sure the vent and exhaust do not
have too many 90's and 45's.  Weil Mclain added an addendum on venting.
You are now allowed to inside air if your situation meets certain standards. 
(page A-20).

possible solution to the original problem?

@ June 21, 2011 9:22 PM in Weil Mclain Ultra constant problems

   I'm not a professional,but I would make sure the vent and exhaust do not
have too many 90's and 45's.  Weil Mclain added an addendum on venting.
You are now allowed to inside air if your situation meets certain standards. 
(page A-20).

warranty on triangle tube

@ February 27, 2011 10:19 PM in Interium Heat Source

     This is for anyone, who's not a licensed heating contractor, who's considering
buying a TT boiler.  Yes--internet companies will sell you a TT boiler, but TT
has made it clear they will not authorize the  warranty.  I liked TT better than Mclain, but Mclain seems more reasonable with their warranty. 

     I think TT knows many of their boilers are being installed by knowledgeable
personnel(but not heating contractor's)-- but some "wonder boy" at he company thought this would be a "good"
legal maneuver?  

     I'm also in the bay area, I'm getting close to completing my system.  I want to
thank Alan Forbes--again--for the help--it's a daunting challenge in the beginning.

nice install

@ January 12, 2011 4:31 PM in Vibrating Munchkin boiler???

Nice install!  I think you'll find out your problem pretty soon.  What I don't understand about this board is people getting all upset about colored/clear PVC cement?
This guy needs to heat his home for his family.  Were all not professionals, and
cannot afford to hire supposedly a  "professional" for a major install like this.  In CA,
hiring a professional HVAC who really understands modern hydronic heating is very difficult.  I really admire most you you guys, but the "Professionals" who make some poster write a thesis about their experience(because the poor guy was insulted)--need to deflate the p.s.i. in their expansion tank.  Good luck Dantana.  I curious to find out the problem.  BTW---I don't think Stegenthaler would find any huge faults in you piping.

simple stuff first

@ December 22, 2010 3:24 PM in Weil McLain Ultra Problem

Hello--I'm not an expert, but I did install a ultra 80.  I'm assuming your using the U-control
to operate the zone valves.  I would first check the simple things; make sure the zone valves are operating correctly(turn on both thermostats and make sure both zone valves are completely open--check the temperature of the supply water temp. right after the zone valves and then throughout the system(at the baseboards).  You might need to buy a
devise to measure water temp.  I wouldn't bother with a tridictator--it can get expensive.


It sounds like the U-Control might be defective, but check the obvious first.  Disconnect the outdoor sensor(if installed) and see what happens.  Let me know the outcome. 
I'm not that impressed with Weil Mclain.  My boiler arrived with bolts missing, etc., but they
do honor their warranties--I've been told.

Thanks for the photos

@ October 24, 2010 3:53 PM in Mechanical room photos?

Beautiful work.  This might be the last trade where I can honestly call a picture of
a job-- "a work of art".  I had an older electrician tell me the art of being an
electrician went out with Scotch locks--I don't agree, but there's still something to
a boiler layout that functional and looks neat.  Again thanks for the pictures, and thanks for not telling me to get lost.  My initial post ruffled a few feathers--It kind of surprised me.  Actually, I understand where the heating contractors were coming from, but personally,
I'll teach almost anyone as long as their willing and still believe in unions(most unions).
My union priced themselves out of a market.

Thanks Alan!

@ September 16, 2010 3:50 PM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

Thanks again Alan--I think I got things worked out.  I have your email and owe you
--I know you don't want anything, but  I didn't respond to your email because I didn't want to be pushy, and I've been a hermit lately. 

Wow--had no idea my post would be controversial?

@ August 16, 2010 4:18 AM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

1.  I didn't mean to start a war.

2.  I'm an middle aged, tired, broke general contractor.  I'm working as
a handyman most of the time.  I'm tired and feel overwhelmed most of
the time.  Plus, I just had to put down my dog--(Chester, you will always be remembered.  He was the sweetest dog)

3.  The heating system is for my older mother.  She is on a very fixed income, and
I don't have much money.  Things just didn't work out for me.

4.  I've put off this heating system for along time. 

5.  I plan on using a local supply house.  That is-- if they will sell to me(I have an inactive contractor's license).   In the past, I've used Ongaro and Sons,
San Anselmo, Ca., and they have always been very helpful.  I Hate Home Depot!!
I try not to shop there.  I could go on and on about the store, but I don't want to
waste the space.  Again, if I can find a supply house, with a knowledgeable
salesperson--I will buy from them.  When I state knowledgeable--I'm not asking
for an expert, but will have the curtsy of pointing out an obvious mistake.

6.  If I had the money, I'd subcontract the job out.  Reading Siegenthaler's
1st edition book is something I didn't want to do, but I wanted to do the job right.
The book is kinda Dry, but loaded with information.  Every time I pick it up, I learn something new.  It's tough to read straight through--at least for me.  And believe
it or, not, hydronic heating is not commonly used in this  area--most HVAC contractors use forced air heating.  Things are changing quickly though with the popularity of solar. 
To any of you who think I'm just cheap--why on earth would use Slant/fin baseboard?
It's so ugly, I'm already looking at making baseboard covers.

7.  I want to thank all who responded.  A special thanks to Alan in Berkeley. 


8.  I hope I can ask a few questions in the future?  I really don't know how to give back
other than what I stated in my first post:  I can answer most electrical, or automotive questions.  I can answer questions on bankruptcy, and Chiropractic(I dropped out
of a school in the 80's).  You might not like my take on Chiropractic care though.
Believe me, I'm doing this baseboard job out of desperation. 

Thanks again Alan

@ August 9, 2010 5:04 PM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

     I'm probably irritating you now, but just a few more questions.

1.  I looking for a plumbing supply house that will sell me most of the materials I need.

2.  Traveling to Berkeley is no problem.  Do you, or anyone reading this post, know
of a reasonably priced plumbing supply house?

3.  I'm obviously not a HVAC contractor, but I have an inactive general contractors license.   I've emailed a few supply houses around Marin, but no one has called back--I'm assuming my job is too small for their time.  I'll probably spend at least 5K on materials.

Thanks Alan!

@ August 8, 2010 5:45 PM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

Thanks Alan:  I have a few more questions, if you have the time.

- Most contractors use 3/4" baseboard (BB).

(Thanks--I'll use 3/4 " baseboard throughout the system)



- Some condensing boilers and their manufacturers:

        Munchkin (Heat Transfer Products)

        Prestige Solo (Triangle Tube)

        Knight (Lochinvar)

Condensing boilers are great for radiant heating where water
temperatures are low.  For high temperature BB, the boilers won't
condense as much, so savings are not as great. 

(Thanks--)



- Yes, you can use ball valves on your piping to regulate flow, but as
Siggy points out, the range-ability of the valve would be too small, a
minute turn of the handle would greatly change heat output.  There are
better ways to do this.

(Thanks--it makes sense)



- If your heat loss is 90,000 BTU's, you will need a 1-1/4" header with 3/4" branches to each zone.

(I'm a little confused here.  I don't need a manifold, but I will need a header.  I can
make the header(keeping the supply pipes close together--the pipes can't be farther than 4X the diameter of the header pipe(so if I had a 1.25" header pipe, the 3/4"
supply pipes could be spaced 5", or less?  I'm assuming I can buy a header
with four ports at any plumbing supply house?



- The zone valves heating contractors use are normally open.

(If their normally open--I need to install check valves on each 3/4" supply line,
in order to keep the water from flowing backwards in the pipe when one or more zones are operating?)



- You don't need a 4-port mixing valve for BB heat.  It goes straight to
the emitters from the boiler.  And you won't need a differential
bypass.

(O.K.)



- The air purger doesn't need to be above the x-tank.  Yes, air vents on each BB and anywhere else that will accumulate air.

(O.K.)



One more question:  Is my system too complicated?  How would you pipe
a baseboard system?  Without seeing the house and knowing how many feet
of baseboard,  I know it's a  unfair question--just looking for some guidance.

Again--thanks for you help. 

Thanks

@ August 8, 2010 4:26 PM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

Thanks for your interest.  I will eventually  insulate  and retrofit the house with
new windows, but right now the house has no heating system--besides
portable electric oil filled heaters(PG&E loves us).  I plan on sizing the
boiler a bit  smaller than the current heat calculation calls for--so when the
remodel is complete the boiler will be roughly the right size.  But right now--
I want to get the system installed.   I know it's a bit backwards.

Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

@ August 8, 2010 5:51 AM in Help setting up a Slant/fin baseboard heating system?

Hello-



     First I want to thank all of you,  for your wisdom.  I'm new to
hydronic heating.  I've read
Siegenthaler(Moderm Hydronic Heating), and scoured the internet for system
ideas.  My goal is to heat a four bedroom house(1300 sq ft).  I'm in
the San Francisco  bay Area. 
I know I should subcontract out the job to a professional, but I don't have the
money.   I would like some input on my proposed system? 



     The particulars of my system:  I live in San
Anselmo, Ca.  The weathers are  pretty mild(gets down to 40 deg.
F).  The house is an old 4 bedroom single story home with single pane
windows, with wood siding.  It's not insulated.  I don't have an
accurate Heat Load yet for the house, but it's coming. 

I don't want to spend
a fortune on the system, but I want an efficient system.

The radiant floor
(plates under the house) looks like a lot of work and expensive?  I’d use Runtal radiators-- if I win the
lottery.

Slimline baseboard is too expensive, so I decided to go with Slant/fin baseboard.



My proposed system:



1.  I will be use 1/2", or 3/4 inch Slant/fin baseboard. 
Is 3/4" over kill for a 1300 sq. ft.  house?  What do most
contractors use when heating residential homes with fintube emitters?



2.  I'll probably use an energy efficient condensing Natural gas
boiler(cast iron).  Is this typical? Any recommendations on brand? 
It will be under 90,000 Btu/h for sure.



3.  I plan on having three heating zones.  I think I'll use
electrical zone valves? 



4.  Besides the use of zone valves, I further want to put flow regulation
valves on each run of baseboard emitters(on each baseboard).  I want to be
able to regulate the heat in each room. I plan on using simple ball
valves?  Does this sound reasonable?
(The valves will be on all the units).


5.  I would love some input on system piping.  As I stated, I plan on
using a multi-zoned system using zone valves(single circulator and three 
electric zone valves).  I'm assuming the boiler will have the variable
speed motor as an option.



6.  I'm planning on using a 1" manifold(zone header—I’m assuming
their the same, but have different names).   with  three 3/4" supply  outputs. 
I am going to run 3/4" PEX to the emitters.  I am going to run 1/2"
PEX (Parallel configuration) to each emitter on each of the three runs.  The supply will
have three 3/4' pex pipes going back to a return header.  (I will provide
a pdf. drawing if anyone wants.  It probably sounds complicated? 



7.  I was planning on using zone valves that are "normally
closed", so I won't need check valves in the system—right--I'm not sure of this? 



8.  If the boiler I buy only has a (fixed speed) motor, I will incorporate
a differential pressure bypass valve on the manifold.  If the boiler comes
with a variable speed pump, I won't need the bypass on the manifold?
Are these two assumptions correct?


9.   Just one more time—If I have a differential pressure bypass valve on the
manifold—I will not need to use boiler bypass using a a four-port mixing
valve.?

But, at the end of the job, if the Delta
T of the boiler is still out of spec., 
I will incorporate a boiler bypass anyway(just to protect the boiler
from cycling on/off too many times, and saving energy)?


 10.  I need to install an air purger above the expansion
tank--right?  Do I still need to put individual air vents on the
baseboards, if I use an air purger in the system?   (The boiler will be in the basement.)(Piping and emitters allare above the boiler).


 11.   Or scrap the entire project, and
just go with One pipe system with diverter valves?  I’m almost there. 
Any input will be Greatly appreciated.  I know I need a Psychiatric evaluation.  As gratitude, I can answer most
automotive , or electrical questions—Thanks  Dan

                

nice layout!!

@ August 2, 2010 9:42 PM in Mechanical room photos?

Could you provide some more pictures of your mechanical room.  I wish there was a book that just showed small mechanical room set ups?  I'm in the process of designing a  fin/tube emitter system and most of the books I have don't have useful pictures.
I'm grateful for this site though.

I'm a newbie.  I'm referring to the very first posted picture(looks like a two zone system).

If anyone out there has pictures of any small system set-ups(boiler, 1, 2 zone,
just baseboard emitters, etc);   I would like to see your system.

There's a need for a book on hydronic heating with a lot of pictures. 
I'm a small general contractor/electrician and need study material--besides
the bible--Siegenthaler(1st ed.).  Sorry, for my rambling.  Oh, I know I should hire a Professional, but my budget is tight.