Heating Help

Oh, what a relief :)

@ October 4, 2011 5:51 PM in purging air from the basement

I verified that circs are pumping upwards.
If my supply tee too close to the bottom Ell, what is affected? Should I really warry about it? Just in case, My circs are Taco 007 F5
regarding the Differential pressure bypass valve. I have 3 zones with termostats and each zone have multiple circuits (to each heat emitter). Each heat emitter has Termostatic (non electric) valve. I am under impression that if termostatic valves are closed on most of emitters this valve opens and let water flowing from bottom (supply) to the top (return) part of the Primary. Am I wrong or you want to say that water any way will get back to the return pipe by rising from the bottom of the circuits and getting to the second tee of the return pipe on the left?
Thank you a lot
Regards,
Vad

I am a bit confused

@ October 3, 2011 9:14 PM in purging air from the basement

As for as I know, circs are pumping up. I will double check, but I am sure 99.9%
I updated the picture making flow direction and writing a bit clearer
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/editprevieww.jpg/
This system was working for a year without issues.
Are you talking about 12'' space between circuits with circs? I will verify the distance.
I do not get where is suggested to move Primary circuit. I only see that it can be moved to the left closer to the air separator. Sorry for diletant questions. I will look at the other book I have (Modern Hydronic and Heating)

I appreciate your input

Mark, thank you again.

@ October 3, 2011 12:00 PM in purging air from the basement

Mark, thank you again. It was late and I did not formulate the last question well.
Does it matter if the boiler is on or off during the air purging? Should I make sure that Differential pressure bypass valve is off?
Regards,
Vad

Re

@ October 3, 2011 1:45 AM in purging air from the basement

Thank you a lot, Mark
This is grate! Do I need to have working ot I can shut it off? Do I need circulators working or it does not matter since water has enough pessure by itself?
To start, I should close that yellow handle valve and open (Position O for Taco model) water feed valne. Correct?
Regards, Vad

purging air from the basement

@ October 2, 2011 1:02 AM in purging air from the basement

Hello,



I have a Home Run system with a Triangle Tube boiler, Indirect
water heater. I have 3 zones (2 floors and the basement; basement is
not yet connected)

The problem is that it looks like that I need to add something to my
system in order I could purge the system from the air from my basement
without going to each radiator/baseboard on the floor.

I will appreciate if people on this forum can take a look at the pictures



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...ionedited.jpg/



http://imageshack.us/f/69/indirectwaterheateredit.jpg/



and advise me on what should I add and exactly at where in the system in order to do a air purging.



Thank you

Vad


























 

Thanks, Rod

@ October 16, 2010 4:13 PM in TRV question

I am familiar with this chapter. This is how I started with the Home Run.
One think that kind of unknown to me.
The idea is to operate Boiler from Outdoor reset as an example. But it means that boiler will be operating all the time from Fall to end of spring (in my area). With the standard setup where I have thermostats in each zone, Boiler will operate only when the Thermostat is calling for it.
   From my unprofessional point of view it will be inefficient if the boiler will be working "full time" for 3/4 of the year with the TRVs on each radiator. Can you collaborate on this?
      I also seen article where the author  also suggest to put thermostat in the coldest room (in addition to TRVs in the whole house). It makes more sense to me, but what if all rooms are heated more or less equal? It is a rhetoric question :)
   I have heard about electric TRVs but did not have yet time to look at it closely. Too much info and not enough time. I have to concentrate on getting heat at my house :)

Regards,
Vad

Thank you, Mark,

@ October 16, 2010 4:00 PM in TRV question

You confirmed my own view on this. Now I have to choose which one to get.

Thank you again,
Vad

Thank you for reply, Please look at pages 5-9

@ October 16, 2010 10:20 AM in TRV question

The document is talking about Hot water and not steam.
I am talking about Danfoss RA-G (1pipe) and RA-N, RA-FN - 2 pipes
Back to my original question. For Home Run do I need TRV for two pipe or one pipe system?

Thank you,
Vad

TRV question

@ October 15, 2010 9:57 PM in TRV question

    Hello All,
I am working on installing a home run at the moment. Each radiator connects separately to a Manifold. I am thinking to get TRV on almost each radiator. Till today, I was thinking that it is the easy part. I looked at TRV specs and found that some of them rated for 2 pipe systems and some are for 1 pipe system (monoflow, etc.). Looks like it is because of the fact that two pipe system have a higher flow rate compared with one pipe.
   The question now is  TRV for which type (1 or 2 pipe) I can use for home run? I need TRV head mounted horizontally and looks like TRV for 2 pipe systems offer this.

Thank you,
Vad

Bob,

@ October 7, 2010 10:59 AM in loops of different lenth in one zone

It is loop of 3 rads, 3K each at 160 degree. It is an old house and to run pipes from each Rad will be much more painfull because of lack of access.
You still think It is not going to work?
Regards,
Vad

:)

@ October 6, 2010 9:19 PM in loops of different lenth in one zone

 Let's do not generalize.
IseSailor, with you example you confirm that pipe size for the mains does not matter as soon you have a bottleneck in the radiator. Agree?
   Most likely in you case person had too much BTU in one loop. In my case it is 9K BTU (three emitters) in one long 140/150' loop on the first floor and all three emitters are in one room.
Am I still wrong? Is this setup require a strong circulator (that I want to avoid)?
Regards,
Vad

Bob,

@ October 6, 2010 8:08 PM in loops of different lenth in one zone

If I can connect one 15K emitter with 1/2 pipe, I assume I can connect three emitters 3K each in one loop with 1/2 pipe. Since the openning is limited to 1/2 by the radiator supply/return valve diameter I feal that I do not gain anything from a bigger pipe.  This is my unprofessional feallings :). I can connect TRV at the first radiator in a loop to follow the article.
    Am I still wrong?
    The only thing that bothers me is that loop is pretty long 140/150'
Regards,
Vad

It is not about the cost

@ October 6, 2010 7:25 PM in loops of different lenth in one zone

 .1/2 pipe is just easier to install. I was reading a chapter written by John Siegenthaler (attached) about Modern radiators and the author suggest using 1/2 or even 3/8 pipes to individually connect each radiator.
In my case I do not really want to connect each one individually (to much work :)), but combine them in a set of 2 or 3 in one loop.
 Thank you
Vad 

Thanks Brad

@ October 6, 2010 6:27 PM in loops of different lenth in one zone

   My last question was about the first floor. As for the second floor and long loop  (my initial question) I stick with the advises I got on this forum. I do not want to much pressure in some loops and a little in others.
   On the first floor I decided to use aluminium radiators (Baxi Euro) and not a baseboard. Looks like these radiators have 1/2 suply and return opening.
    My question is how bigger pipe (3/4) can help me to low the pressure if opening for each radiator in a loop is only 1/2?
 May be I am wrong and opening is bigger than 1/2 on the Baxi radiator?  I know that it accept 1/2 NPT fitting

Thanks a lot
Vadim

Related question, an urgent one since it is getting cold :)

@ October 6, 2010 5:18 PM in loops of different lenth in one zone

        On my first floor, I am planning to put 3 aluminium radiators (3150BTU at 160 degree) together in one loop using 1/2 PEX (or PAP) pipe. The loop is going to be about 140-150 feet. Manifold is going to be at the basement close to the ceiling.
   Since supply and return for each radiator is only 1/2 inch anyway and the altitude difference is very small (about 4' max) is this a right or wrong to think that 1/2 inch pipe for the whole loop will do the job?
Thank you again
Vad

Thank you

@ October 6, 2010 5:15 PM in loops of different lenth in one zone

a lot for your advises. I am ordering 3/4 pipe for the second floor.

loops of different lenth in one zone

@ October 1, 2010 12:41 PM in loops of different lenth in one zone

Hello All
I would appreciate any advise 
        I am going to have multiple baseboard loops. The longest loop will be about 160-170' (baseboard only), the shortest - about 45-50'. Can it be a problem? Is there anything I can do in advance to prevent issues if any? Short loops for aluminium radiators (one in each loop), Long loops for baseboard.

 The other question I have. Longest loop (160-170') is going from the basement to the second floor. It is going to have about 13K BTU (about 27' baseboard calculated at 160 degree). I already ordered 5/8 PEX pipe for it, but now I am thinking that maybe 1/2 pipe will be sufficient. From the other side, I am thinking that it is going from the basement to the second floor and loop is quite long and that maybe I will not get enough flow rate. I do not know what the circulator is going to be and I calculated a baseboard based on 1GPM flow). What is your opinion?
      Also would you advise to have TRV at each loop with this setup? My radiators came with TRV on it. Any particular model of TRV you can recommend?
  
Thank you a lot
Vad

5/8 pipe with the Slant Fin baseboard

@ September 22, 2010 8:20 PM in 5/8 pipe with the Slant Fin baseboard

                  I am planning to connect about 25' of baseboard that have 3/4 pipe in it to a 5/8 PEX AL PEX pipe. Am I going to loose BTU since I am using 5/8 and not 3/4 pipe? I do not know what the flow rate is going to be.
Thank you,
Vad

160F as a design temerature with standard efficiency boiler

@ September 20, 2010 6:36 PM in 160F as a design temerature with standard efficiency boiler

 Is this acceptable to use 160F as a design temperature with Standard efficiency boiler that have 140F as minimum return temperature (Burnham Series 2)? Setting 160F on Standard efficiency boiler will I get more energy efficient system?
 I am thinking on using ModCon boiler but still there is a chance that I will be using standard efficiency one. I need to calculate baseboard size and install it  prior to selecting the boiler. I realize that it is not the really right way of building the system.
 If I understand right, it make sence to make the design temperature 160F for use with high efficiency boiler.
I appreciate you input.
Thank you,
Vad

Indirect Water heater Brand/Model advise

@ September 15, 2010 11:42 AM in Indirect Water heater Brand/Model advise

      
      Hello,
Loking for advise on the Brand/Model of Indirect Water Heater in term of performance, efficiency, quality, warranty (parts and labor), cost/easiness of maintenance.
I am looking for one 40 to 60Gl for a 2 family house in NY.
I am not asking here about specific model but about Brand/Product line

Thank you,
Vad

Frame house covered with stucco - wall R value

@ September 10, 2010 12:54 PM in Frame house covered with stucco - wall R value

Hello,
Stucco siding was done couple of years ago to cover frame house. Stucco has about 1'' foam in it. I do not know if there is any insulation at the house's walls. I do not know exactly what kind (make) of stucco it is as well.
  For Heat Loss calculation, Is it safe to count combine wall R value (together with stucco) equal to 10? As I understand stucco alone with 1'' foam can be about R4
Thank you,
Vad

Thank you Dave, Bob and others. I was very buisy and could not reply in time

@ September 10, 2010 2:40 AM in piping for two story house (with attachment)

The reason I was thinking about 2 pipe distribution is as yiu understand to keep all baseboard with the same temperature.
 I remind that I have 2 stories 2 family house in NY  (1700 sqf  + Basement).
I am planning to have 2 zones - 1 for 1st and 2nd floors and one for the basement.
If you think 2 pipe system is overkill, what about to have 2 loops per floor? I think it calls split loop.
    Would you recommend this setup?
     Looks like it is less complicated. I include an attachment with the new diagram.
With this setup, do I need TRVs or anything like this?
I am not sure if part of the diagram related to the baseboard in the basement is correct since basement is going to be in a separate zone. Maybe I should not attach basement radiators to the main pipes?

     I appreciate your feedback