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Joined on September 1, 2010

Last Post on August 14, 2014

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Rebuild Kit

@ March 25, 2014 10:09 AM in Munchkin replacement

I'd recommend finding the local distributor for HTP and obtaining the parts from them. You should also replace the swirl plate if you go this route.

In general, I'd don't deal with Internet peddlers, but a google search for "Munchkin Boiler Parts" should give you some options, too.


@ March 24, 2014 10:31 PM in HELP!

Here's a good steam pro:


@ March 24, 2014 9:53 PM in Munchkin replacement

The cleaning process is simple for a tech that knows the boiler, but would be lengthy to describe. I'd look for the video.

One thing that is essential is removing ALL the debris BETWEEN the HX coils. This is what most people miss, but what must be done. Use a credit card to get between the coils and a soft scrub or toothbrush with CLR. Make sure the drain flows freely.

Has a combustion analysis ever been performed?

Not Just Orifices

@ March 24, 2014 9:41 PM in Natural Gas to LP gas conversion .. orifices

There's more to converting a gas appliance than just changing orifices. It also involves replacing the regulator spring in the gas valve and setting the manifold pressure with an accurate manometer. The pressure MUST be set to the manufacturer's specs and the installer must assure that the inlet pressure remains at a constant minimum level with ALL appliances on the line firing. Then the fuel to air ration needs to be adjusted and the only accurate way to do this is with a digital combustion analyzer - something your guy has probably never even seen.

Had all these steps been followed, you would not have had any shooting.


@ March 22, 2014 11:11 PM in Radiant

How does the DHW work? If I'm following the piping correctly, the cold comes through a BFP (imagine that), then through a PRV and into the cold port of the TMV. How will this induce circulation through the tankless when a faucet is opened?

Top Nipples

@ March 21, 2014 11:41 PM in Ornate Cast Iron Radiators

That's correct. Your rads only have bottom nipples and therefore can only be used on steam. The Oventrop valve won't change that. It's purpose is to allow both supply and return to enter from one point so the rad won't have to be tapped from the other end.

Rads with top nipples are compatible with steam or hot water.

Shooting Gallery

@ March 21, 2014 11:31 PM in Munchkin replacement

You keep using the shot gun approach and sooner or later you might hit something. How do you know that you need any or all of those parts? It may just need a PROPER cleaning of the burner, HX and condensate drain. Most so called "techs" don't know how to properly service a Munchkin.

Why don't you hold off on the parts until you get the boiler properly serviced? Without proper maintenance and diagnosis, you're gonna have a heat exchanger failure, then you'll be recycling the Munchkin at the scrap yard.

CIBB on One Pipe

@ March 21, 2014 7:38 PM in Adding cast iron baseboard to one-pipe steam system

How is it gonna vent?


@ March 21, 2014 7:31 PM in Gas piping

"Under advisement". Whatever that means.

I have been in Navien training class where less than stellar attendees have ask why a199k btu appliance could not be connected to a 1/2" gas line. After the instructor gave a detailed and correct explanation, the knucklehead replied: "You ought to make that thing where it can be hooked to a 1/2" line". The instructor then explained again why it could not be done and the knucklehead said: "Well, I don't know about any of that stuff, but you ought to make that thing where it will work with a 1/2" line".

I think someone at Navien has realized that they sell to a lot of knuckleheads and therefore they're gonna "tell 'um what they wanna hear".


@ March 21, 2014 7:10 PM in Munchkin replacement

R.E. Michel for ECR/Utica, Aireco for Dunkirk.

Fire Tube

@ March 21, 2014 10:59 AM in Munchkin replacement

Any of the numerous manufacturers that have adopted the fire tube heat exchanger would be a good choice. Lochinvar WHN, Triangle Tube, HTP Elite Fire Tube, SlantFin, Weil McClain to name some. Not all of their boilers use the fire tube, though. HTP still makes a wall hung version of the Munchkin (the Contender).

The ECR/Dunkirk/Utica is not a fire tube, but has an excellently design HX and is very reliable. I'll attach a pic of its HX and there's a previous thread under my handle that discusses it.

The main thing, the most important thing IS the installer/servicer. Focus on getting a good one; he's the most important factor, not the boiler.

I'd recommend that you contact Alan Forbes @ California Radiant and see if he can help. Use the"Find a Contractor" tab above.


@ March 20, 2014 6:43 PM in Gas piping

I couldn't agree more. If a cubic ft of gas has a caloric value of 1050 btu's, then that's all you're gonna get no matter what you do in the appliance. The chart that I just peeked at says you'll get 110 cubic feet through a 1/2" line that's 24' long. That looks like about 115,500 btu's to me.

Someone's doing funny math again.

Heat loss?

@ March 20, 2014 6:27 PM in Burnham ESC vs. Combi Wall Hung

What's the heat loss of the house? Has a load calc been done?

We always recommend doing one and sizing the boiler to that, especially a mod/con. Otherwise, you'll have a short cycling problem. Just a simple calc of the entire envelope is sufficient for sizing the boiler. Modern boilers are low to medium mass and over/sizing will greatly shorten the boiler's life as well as efficiency.

Don't size it based it based on domestic, unless it's a combi like the NCB.

Also, the NCB can be twinned with an NR, but I seriously doubt that's needed for the load you've described.

On other caveat: depending upon the type of emitters and the water temp required, you may not get the full 120k for space heating as the on board pump will only deliver 4.5 gal. for space heating also. (4.5x500)x20* delta T= 45,000 btu's.

120k btu's would be enough to heat a 4000 sq. ft. house that's not well insulated. Is the house anywhere near that size?


@ March 20, 2014 9:33 AM in Manifold Actuators

I don't have the part numbers, but the ones on the left are the older wirsbo/Honeywell style. You can use the Rehau style on the right to replace the older style though the older ones are still available from Honeywell. If the Rehau are used, they must be mounted upright on these manifolds. They are much more reliable.

The old style are micro motor; the new are a heated wax element.


@ March 19, 2014 9:53 AM in Ornate Cast Iron Radiators

Those are steam only, so you may want to focus on selling to someone renovating a steam system.

2nd System

@ March 19, 2014 9:47 AM in ADDING AC TO RADIANT FORCED AIR

You may want to look at adding a separate system such as mini-splits. A lot of times, there's a great amount of leakage with those old under slab duct systems due to the earth settling under the structure.

I lived in house with one about 30 years ago and when I pulled the furnace I found the in-ground plenumn had a 2-3" gap all the way around it allowing air to blow under the slab. There was a temperature drop of 20* from the plenumn to the last register. The gas co. loved me.


@ March 18, 2014 10:37 PM in Confused

A low loss header is a hydraulic separator. But not all hydraulic separators are low loss headers. A set of closely spaced Tees is a hydraulic separator. Anything that accomplishes the purpose and function is one.

Press Fittings

@ March 17, 2014 9:00 PM in Radarondack Chair

Are those press fittings on the chair?

Manifold connectors vs Male adapters

@ March 17, 2014 12:51 PM in system advice

The fittings needed at the rads will be male adapters, not manifold connectors.

Doesn't Add Up

@ March 17, 2014 8:14 AM in system advice

He posted earlier that he needed one 8 station manifold and one 5 station. That's 13 loops and 13 sets of connectors.


@ March 16, 2014 10:15 PM in Converting gas W/H

Propane requires a different burner and conversion is not approved by the manufacturer.

Not that simple

@ March 16, 2014 10:09 PM in Taco Zone Valve

Manually opening them will cause the end switch to close in the valve, thus sending a signal to the boiler's aquastat that there's a call for heat. If you turn the thermostats up, the lever on the zone valves should move without resistance after a couple of minutes. This would indicate that the valves are functional and the problem lies elsewhere.

I doubt that you will be able to fix this yourself. You should call a tech.
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