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Joined on September 1, 2010

Last Post on September 16, 2014

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The 00R is...

@ October 22, 2010 12:17 AM in Pump selection

A direct replacement for the UPS15-58 and the performance curves are almost the same. The 009 is a "high head" pump and is not the equivalent of the 15-58.

I don't know what the "vision drawings" are, but I suspect they design a piping arrangement that produces a higher head than conventional piping and that is why the 009 is specified.

 You had better stick with what the manufacturer calls for. They usually have done extensive testing and know what works best.

Need more info

@ October 20, 2010 11:06 PM in indirect performance

What is the Btu output of your boiler? What size pump (make & model) and piping do you have?

The answer may be yes if the boiler's full capacity is not being utilized and if increasing the flow rate doesn't exceed 4ft. per second.

The Formula...

@ October 17, 2010 10:10 PM in heat loss via electric "test"?

For converting electric heat is: Watts x 3.413 = Btus. Use actual wattage, not rated, as this can vary significantly.

Not So!

@ October 16, 2010 11:46 PM in Help with on demand and storage tank hook up.

Legionella Was produced in the DHW re-circ. line at 120deg. This is why boiler manufacturers are adding a tank sanitizing feature to their controls.

Transformers Don't Produce DC...

@ October 16, 2010 11:26 PM in Boiler Problem

They produce AC. Are you using the DCv scale on the Fluke or did you just mis- state the scenario?

Make sure your meter is set to ACv when checking.

Take a Look At...

@ October 16, 2010 10:46 PM in Combustion analyzer

E Instruments. Mine is a model 1100 with built in printer. Some of the guys I know have switched from Testo to this and like its features better.

You Need To...

@ October 16, 2010 12:22 AM in Help with Boiler size-up

Do a heat loss calc. and size the boiler accordingly, not according to the radiation. It may be over-sized. If it is, that's OK because the boiler water temp may be able to be lowered some in that case. That would lower fuel consumption.

I would highly recommend that you install a good mod/con. with outdoor reset. Your fuel savings would be significant. 40% to 50% is not unusual.

Post Purge Is...

@ October 16, 2010 12:07 AM in Outdoor reset question with Buderus GB142

To extract as much residual heat as possible after the burner shuts off. If you had only one zone pump, it could have been wired in parallel with the boiler pump (PK) and thus would have remained on as long as the boiler pump. This function also keeps the DHW pump on when it"s wired to "PS". The time is adjustable.

Very Common but...

@ October 15, 2010 11:15 PM in zone pumps / old boiler

Not the best way to do it. Circs. work better on the supply side, down stream from the expansion tank connection.

Where Do You Live?

@ October 15, 2010 11:00 PM in Hydronic Air Handler - Heat/Hot Water Problem

It better be where the temp. never falls below 50deg. Wait, just noticed you have a heat pump. Make that about 40deg. depending on the heat loss of your house.

The heat element in your electric water heater only produces 15,350 Btu/h. Not much to heat with. The Goodman AH2429 has a 29,000 Btu/h coil. The water heater can't keep up with it. This system probably needs a gas water heater.

You could try setting the thermostats on the water heater higher, but you should have an anti- scald valve installed if you do this. You may also want to have the heat pump checked.

Shouldn't Be Any If...

@ October 15, 2010 10:28 PM in Zone control panel and possible conflicts

You follow the instructions and diagrams carefully.

Sounds Like Wiring is Correct

@ October 15, 2010 9:46 PM in Outdoor reset question with Buderus GB142

The AM10 reset control does not control circulators, just boiler water temp and warm weather shut down. There should be no need for space heating at or above the WWSD temp. Why would there be a call for heat when it's above 70 outside? The T'stat needs to be lowered to shut off the pump, or if for some reason you are cold at 70deg. outside, the WWSD needs to be raised.

The space heating circs. are controlled by the Argo panel which turns on zone pumps as their T'stat(s) call. It also signals the boiler to fire on a heat call. The DHW circ. should be wired to the "PS" terminal on the boiler terminal board if the Buderus tank sensor is being used. On a DHW call, the boiler's BC10 control overrides the AM10 reset and fires the boiler regardless of outdoor temp. It also starts the boiler circ. and the DHW circ.

The circs. will not be "starved" if the boiler circ. is not running: they are piped in primary/secondary fashion. What your contractor told you is correct.

Either lower the thermostat or raise the WWSD temp. No need to re-wire.

What is connected...

@ October 14, 2010 10:49 PM in Flue Problem

To the large flue? How many Btu's is it?

I can't imagine anything in a single family house that would require a flue that large. In fact, most commercial bldgs. don't have any thing that big.

I would put it back the way it was - with the damper. It worked that way and a short run of 4" isn't going to make a difference on a water heater.

You might want to have a knowledgeable heating contractor check your entire vent system.

The Taco SR503...

@ October 14, 2010 9:43 PM in relay for primary-secondary + indirect, 120v control side

Is what you need, not the DPDT relay. It will control the CH zone pump and the DHW pump. The boiler pump should be controlled by the boiler's control. Follow Taco's wiring diagram for your specific application. You  may need an additional relay (120v coil) if boiler has outdoor reset to over-ride this on a call for domestic. All this is in Taco's diagrams. 

No, Your Answer on The Previous Post...

@ October 14, 2010 8:44 PM in Gravity flow...

About the suppliers "Depends" tops 'em all.


@ October 13, 2010 10:37 PM in Inrirect and sizing

On what the domestic heating load is. The larger indirect does not require 140k input to operate. It only requires 140k to produce at its rated capacity. 60k input would give it a 1.7gal per minute recovery rate @ 70deg. rise. 140k would give it a 4gal. per minute rate @ 70deg. rise. How many Gpm. do you need?

Use the Universal Hydronics Formula:

@ October 13, 2010 10:19 PM in Gravity flow...

Btu/h = Gpm x 500 x Delta T.

In your case, work it in reverse. Take the boiler output Btu/h divided by Delta T Divided by 500 = Gpm.

Do it with the boiler and piping at operating temp. as the flow rate becomes greater with temp rise.

One More Option...

@ October 13, 2010 9:02 PM in Choosing System 2000 or Brodurus?

Would be the Buderus G125BE or GB125BE. Both are over 90% efficient and qualify for a $1500.00 federal tax credit. These boilers have a specially designed burner that actually burns with a blue flame. The dealer has to be trained and certified by Buderus to sell and install these. He also is required to have the proprietary parts in stock. Check Buderus' web site under dealer listing to find a certified dealer(s) in your area.


@ October 12, 2010 8:42 PM in Hole in Radiator

The radiator.  I don't know of any reliable method of patching a rad. Others may have a different opinion. Turning the valve off only closes flow  from one side, the rad. will still leak.

I would be very concerned about all of the rads. in this house. If one froze, then there's probably others that did. Have a heating pro pressurize and check the entire system. Have the plumbing system checked also.

F-4 Code...

@ October 12, 2010 7:20 PM in LAARS PROBLEM PROBLEM PROBLEM

Means supply sensor error. Two things to check:

1. From what you describe, it sounds like no water circulation thru the boiler. Look for a bad circ. pump or valve closed. It's also possible that the heat exchanger needs de-scaling. Is there sufficient water pressure on the boiler? should be 12psi min.

2. The sensor itself could be bad. Should measure 10k ohms @ 77deg.

You Said...

@ October 10, 2010 10:41 PM in Boiler Problem

That there's power "up to the switch". Have you checked the load side of the switch? Toggle switches that have been unused for a long time can fail quicker than those used regularly. Also, are there any fuses on the control board?

Thanks Mark...

@ October 9, 2010 8:38 PM in Thermo Damper ?

I think that I've got half-himers. This is about the 4th or 5th time that I've done that this week. I had it right in my mind and would have wired it right, but keep stating it backwards.

Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most!
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