Joined on September 13, 2010
Last Post on December 4, 2013
@ December 4, 2013 12:48 AM in Oil / Gas Nozzle conversion - HELP!Can you put a gas conversion into a Weil-McLain 368 series boiler? The distance from the inside edge of the chamber to the back of the chamber is only 9 1/2" deep. Do they make a gas conversion burner that makes a flame that short? If it hits the back, won't it wrap around and raise the CO by not getting a clean burn?
This boiler isn't much bigger than a suitcase. When I installed Weil-McLains, I always used 468's because I got better flame performance than the 3's. You couldn't put a Carlin 100CRD in it without having a big round black spot on the back wall. And the "A"-Tubes sucked. EZ-1.s weren't any better. Both ran wonderfully in a 4 section. Are there any gas conversion with a short, compact flame for this or are they all just big flamethrowers?
I'll never see another one where I am now.
@ December 2, 2013 6:35 PM in Beckett 7505 120V GeniSys ControlLook at the posted PDF file for the GeniSys control on page 6. The 7505P control is the control you need because it has the terminal to run the pump and the special live terminal. There seems to be a difference.
@ December 2, 2013 6:31 PM in Beckett 7505 120V GeniSys ControlDoesn't it take a 7505P or V control that has the extra terminal that takes a constant live terminal like the 502000 or 602000?
Otherwise, that 7505 is only powered when the burner calls and you have the TT terminals jumped.
Or maybe that's the problem. You have to have the TT's operating the control. Then, the control is powered all the time.
I don't know. I've never seen or used the control and probably never will.
@ December 2, 2013 6:18 PM in Hidden steam leak between floorsBuy a Ryobi "See-Snake, a cheap portable video cam system. Cut a hole in the ceiling under the sound and have a look. Sometimes you can rent them. Buying one is cheaper than paying someone to hack holes looking when it might just be a pipe rubbing. Water leaks of the heating variety usually don't take too ling before they show up somewhere.
Ryobi Tek 4. For $100.00, you can't go wrong. An electrician friend bought one years ago and I borrowed it from him regularly. It works like a charm.
@ December 2, 2013 1:15 AM in Slow leak at joint (picture)We're all right that it is a tee.
Closer look might show it to be a 1" X 1" X 3/4" tee though. 1/2: has a much higher neck down.
If it's a 1" soldered tee though, it takes a little more finesse for the rookies to solder them properly.
A rag to wipe the grapes and snots off the soldered fitting will go a long way to tell you if you got it hot enough and looks right spiffy when done.
@ December 2, 2013 12:52 AM in Beckett 7505 120V GeniSys ControlI'm not familiar with that control but if you replaced a 8184 or some control that gets its power from the thermostatic controller, that GeniSys may need a hot wire all the time and the wire that is being used to run it should stay as the feed.
Let me put it another way. With the Carlin 60200 controls, there is a Red wire and a Black wire. The Red wire is powered off the line voltage on the switch or live from the control. The Black is from the control to tell the control to start. I don't think the control should turn off when the burner stops.
I can be easily wrong. I've never installed that control.
The Beckett 7505P requires the hot wire all the time that works like the 60200 Carlin Controls. I couldn't find the Beckett 520671 control listed anywhere to get the wiring specs.
@ December 2, 2013 12:43 AM in Adding ferrous to closed systemThat isn't a Stainless Steel water tank, It doesn't have a non ferric coil. It is about time for the "glass lining: in the water heater to start failing. Its been my long time experience that water heater tanks fail any time after the warranty runs out.
It was also my experience that PEX tube with an Oxygen barrier can leak air but may not show any problems unless you have cast iron or steel parts in the system. But that was my experience.
@ November 30, 2013 1:32 PM in Riello post purge""My wife asked me if I had plans to install a beer fridge in the boiler room." "
Wife sounds like keeper. Her beer cooler is a nice idea.
@ November 27, 2013 9:33 PM in Effluent lift stationOr turning it end for end makes the check flapper swing against the flow.
@ November 27, 2013 9:24 PM in Powervent shuts off after running for 1 minuteDrop the cover and look at the UV1 controller. Watch the diagnostic lights to see if they go through their proper sequence.
When the call comes from the burner controller, it is supposed to make the PV fan start first. Often, there will be very little delay before the burner starts. Because the fan prover switch is satisfied. If the burner motor starts and the SS-1 fan doesn't start immediately or after the burner starts, the SS-1 is wired wrong.
@ November 25, 2013 12:04 AM in Carbon Monoxide Issues - HELP!The vent termination is also too close to the ground. .3 meters (12") plus the NOAA ?normal" highest winter single storm depth for that area.
@ November 24, 2013 11:45 PM in I ran across the system ......That was the Crème De La Crème system of its day. All modern PEX radiant systems owe their existence to that system. That must be in a really high end home in Dover. There are a lot of them in Southeastern Massachusetts. A few still on one of the Islands. Mostly designed by a PE that owned a heating supply wholesale business in New Bedford that catered to the large commercial trade. Dealt with HB Smith boilers. I installed a few of his systems when I worked for my old late boss. Because so few knew how they worked, and it was an isolated area, if the customer changed companies, the systems were usually ruined. They were replaced. That big Sarco blender was the heart of the system. I had a customer that the previous owner had done a huge gut re-hab in the early 1960's. 7 radiant zones through the Sarco and 4 regular, unmixed high temperature radiator zones. 10 years ago, some hot rod replaced the old Smith-Mills 2000 series 8 section boiler with a Weil-McLain WGO-7, cut out all the mixers, connected it all together and sends high temperature water through the plaster ceilings.
I was always told that if you put that 180 degree water through the plaster and hard finish radiant ceilings that it would all crack. It never cracked. When I took over the account, I turned it down as low as I could but the house never worked right.
Someone has worked on that system that knows what they are doing.
Thanks for posting that. I'm sure that whomever installed that is up there somewhere with the old dead steam guys.
@ November 24, 2013 11:23 PM in Thermopump and Oil heatingYou need your system serviced by someone who knows and understands how it works and when it works.
It sounds like it isn't working properly and it needs service. If it ran out of oil, it did so for a reason. It's too complicated for anyone here to DX it for you if you are not a professional. You have a complicated management system.
@ November 23, 2013 6:51 PM in Powervent shuts off after running for 1 minuteFirst of all, the SS-1 and the boiler are wired wrong and not compatible. If the PV motor stops, the burner must stop also. It wasn't ever wired properly. Whomever wired it in the beginning, turned it on, it fired up, and now isn't working. There are safety sequences that must be followed.
What is the burner control?
You have a mess on your hands and need a pro that knows what they are doing.
The so called "Puff Switch" is a fail safe device like a cad cell. If it is open when it goes to start, it will try and then it should close and hold then the burner fires. If it is closed, the control will not allow the burner to start because it knows it shouldn't be running. If the draft switch doesn't pull in within a minute, it shuts off the PV. If it doesn't stop the burner, its mis-wired.
Get a Professional. NOW.
Your life and safety is in danger.
@ November 23, 2013 6:38 PM in boiler requires separate circuit?It has always been my understanding that boilers must be on their own properly sized circuits.
That if you have a boiler in an open cellar with no partitions, the remote safety switch must be located OUTSIDEW the cellar and not inside the top of the cellar door.
Furthermore, why would you want the boiler on the same circuit as the lights? If the circuit trips because of the boiler, you have no lights.
I have never seen a Licensed Massachusetts electrician wire a boiler on a shared lighting circuit.
Massachusetts oil burner technicians are allowed to wire a replacement boiler and controls on an existing system. Not from scratch. But it must be its own circuit
How many amps is that car charger?
@ November 23, 2013 8:09 AM in Radiator Closest To Return Leaking A lot of WaterPaul,
Why wouldn't the fact that there is no proper header (as the manufacturer shows) and the fact that the steam made by the boiler and is injected directly into the system not contribute to the surging?
It would seem to me that one purpose of a header is to try to establish an equilibrium on either side of the header and allow the weight of the return water to overcome the resistance of the steam pressure in the boiler. If the steam is blowing by the branch of a tee like that one does, it doesn't take much differential pressure to cause a change in pressure to make it surge.
If you have a glass of soda, it doesn't take a lot of pressure from your mouth to surge the liquid up and down a straw.
Almost every boiler manufacturer that I've seen shows a primary/secondary piping arrangement with the secondary piping a few pipe diameters away from a corner turning ell and feeding the system through branches of tee's. For many that are instructionally challenged, and don't need to read instructions, they replace the turning ell with a tee and feed the system through the Run of the tee and feed the other side of the secondary loop through the branch. They post pictures here and we see it often. I know that Reps see this all the time when called to problem systems and have a hard time convincing installers that this is part of their problem.
I'm not a Steamer but I have seen so many replacement steam systems that worked fine until replaced. A proper header wasn't installed and when Steamhead or someone like him installed Drop Header, everything became a beautiful thing.
Like I said, I'm not a Steamer. Just another know nothing Wethead who, living now in Florida, will never again see a Steam Boiler that was replaced wrong.
It also seems to me that the colder it gets, and the longer the burner runs to make steam, the worse the problem will get.
Or so it seems to me.
@ November 19, 2013 9:22 AM in monofloAgain,
Or as I once heard someone say:
"That might work for you. I've never seen it work for anyone else before but it might work for you."
Then, there's what an old retired Navy Fleet Admiral I had as a customer a few years back. He defined for me the complete "The Laws of Unintended Consequences". That "No Good Deed Goes Unpunished".
@ November 19, 2013 8:57 AM in Heating Help for Fireplaces?It's hard to tell from the photo. When I first saw it, it looked like a metal plate over the ash dump. Now I see that it is missing. They are usually a standard size of some sort. Get the appropriate size and mortar it in place. They don't really need to be mortared in place as long as it doesn't fall into the ash dump. Ash dumps will also provide some fresh air to under the fore. Sometimes.
What I can't see in the photo is the back of the firebox. From what I can see of it, it doesn't look all that bad but another course or two higher is where they really get bad of you let the logs and embers burn right up next to the bricks.
It looks really nasty in the photo but it may be deceiving. They always look nasty if they have been used. If their are bricks in the back that are protruding and the edges are rounded off, it has been overheated. They can be cut out and replaced. They don't look like firebricks, but common "S&H" bricks. What you really need to know is how thick the back is. Is there another course behind the exposed one in front. How old is this house/fireplace? Some of the old center bay, 6 to 8 fireplace cribs I've worked in sometimes had back to back fireplaces with a shared back, making the firewall between only the 4"- thickness of an old brick between them. Is it new enough to have clay liners? If not, you need to line it if you want to use it as a fireplace. You can use it with a gas log that is approved for unlined chimney's but it is a specific one. Does it have a damper? If not, it isn't difficult to put one in.
You have to decide what you are trying to do. Copperfield is a very good place for fireplace repair stuff. Like ash dumps, dampers and liners.
Scrape, clean and paint that inside with black heat resistant fireplace paint and it will look brand new.
Another look says that the back, and sides are fire clay brick. The hearth are some form of quarry tile. The tiles don't seem to be spalling. By yesterday's standards, that is a "modern" fireplace. And mostly by the standards of today if it has a damper and it has clay flue liners. How old is the house? 50-60 years old or less?
Wire brush the firebox, scrape it down. Do the same on the hearth, Muriatic Acid on the hearth or something to clean it up like TSP to bring the color back and you will be a hero.
@ November 18, 2013 11:59 AM in Oil-Filled RadiatorI guy I once worked with had a habit of turning words around. He used to say, "If there's way, there's a will".
If you need a gas line in your bedroom, someone with a way can find the will for it to happen.
Remember, a wire circuit is only as good as the worst connection between the appliance and the fuse. If you have flickering lights, it could be a symptom of a bad neutral. You NEVER in your life want to be in a building with a failing neutral. It can kill you quicker than a rattle snake. If its Knob & Tube, the wire splices are only wrapped around the main wire and soldered. Then, wrapped with tar tape. Which dries out and falls off. Then, the solder oxidizes off and you only have the tension of the wire being twisted around the main cable. Those electric heaters all have neutral plugs. You need to be sure that you have a three pronged outlet plug that the ground connection is actually connected to something. If not, the ground safety part isn't there. Unless the factory supplied cord end only has two prongs, it MUST have a three prong outlet. Two wire adapters don't count.
If you've never been in a house with a completely failed Neutral, where there are big sparks jumping from the grounded metal door of a dishwasher and jumping to the refrigerator because they were on different legs of the 115/230, and the lights in part of the house are so bright that they look like the sun and lights across the room are so dim that you can see the bulb filaments, your attention will be grabbed immediately.
The same as when the your hair stands up on end just before lightning strikes near you. If it hits you, you won't remember because you'll be dead.
@ November 18, 2013 11:31 AM in 2 thermostats in parallel - hybrid hydronicUse Isolation relays and blow up to your hearts content.
Something is missing.