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icesailor

icesailor

Joined on September 13, 2010

Last Post on April 23, 2014

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No Heat/Anti-Freeze:

@ January 26, 2011 4:01 PM in No heat in zone one

If you can avoid it, do not put Anti-Freeze in your heating system. It had many drawbacks. If you have an insulation problem in your garage, it is cheaper to fix the freezing problem rather than adding anti-freeze. Any time someone needs to work on the system, they need to capture and save the solution and pump it back in. If you have a leak that doesn't show or leak, it will as soon as you put the Anti-Freeze to it. It doesn't transfer heat as well and it makes the circulator pump work harder to move the fluid.
In Massachusetts, you must have an insulation inspection before the walls are covered. How come your insulation contractor didn't insulate the area? I would be asking them. If I did this, I would expect to be contacted. I HATE explaining myself when I am wrong.

primin der pupus:

@ January 26, 2011 10:42 AM in out of oil

If you have a Tigerloop, it will prime itself. If you have to call a Pro to get it going, have them install a Tigerloop; and you will never have a problem again.
It's too hard to explain all the ways to prime a fuel pump. But disconnecting the fuel line and sucking on it isn't one of them, DO NOT TO THAT!!!!! 

No heat:

@ January 25, 2011 7:27 PM in No heat in zone one

I fix a lot of frozen, broken pipes.
I would not ever do what you are planning to do unless the pipes have broken and the water is flowing. It is highly likely from my experience, that the pipe has not yet broken, If it hasn't, you will have a lot of wasted holes to repair.
If the zone is isolated with valves, turn off the zone. Put heat in the garage and crank it up. Close the garage door and get it as hot as you can. Open the valves occasionally and if water doesn't start leaking, start the circulator. If the return comes back so cold that it hurts your hand, you have it. If nothing moves, close the valves for a few more hours. It will come.
I just went on a call where the whole place was frozen up with broken pipes, According to the folks in charge. All the pipes are heat taped and insulated. I put my air compressor to it and nothing leaked but an area was frozen and blocked. I left it drained but pressurized overnight with a faucet open. This morning, I went there and there was no pressure. I closed the faucet, charged up the system and no leaks. I could have spent hours looking for a leak that wasn't there.
Do what you want but I never cut holes in walls and ceilings unless I KNOW that there is a leak there.

Apples in the door:

@ January 25, 2011 6:28 AM in Should I replace sliding patio door?

Brad,
If you are comparing apples and oranges, you have points. I'm comparing apples. Mac's and Delicious
Storm windows on single pane windows cut heat loss by 1/2. If it is 70' inside and 0' outside, the temperature in the middle of the air space is 35' If you add another pane of glass like double paned glass, the number drops. If it is colder between the drape and the inside of the door, it gives more resistance to the heat flowing to the cold. How much is subjective. But the resistance is there and it works. If you have a drafty, infiltrating door, seal the door. If the door is radiating, cover the door. Especially if it is aluminum. But you don't see too many of those any more.
JMO,

Apples in the door:

@ January 25, 2011 6:28 AM in Should I replace sliding patio door?

Brad,
If you are comparing apples and oranges, you have points. I'm comparing apples. Mac's and Delicious
Storm windows on single pane windows cut heat loss by 1/2. If it is 70' inside and 0' outside, the temperature in the middle of the air space is 35' If you add another pane of glass like double paned glass, the number drops. If it is colder between the drape and the inside of the door, it gives more resistance to the heat flowing to the cold. How much is subjective. But the resistance is there and it works. If you have a drafty, infiltrating door, seal the door. If the door is radiating, cover the door. Especially if it is aluminum. But you don't see too many of those any more.
JMO,

Radiant electric thermostat.

@ January 25, 2011 6:16 AM in Thermostat amp rating for ceiling radiant heat

Call a Pro.
You break it, you own it.

Air In System:

@ January 24, 2011 8:03 PM in Air In System

If you are hearing the water in the circulator, it is cavitating. It also sounds like there is high resistance to flow in the circuit. What kinds of emitters do you have on that zone? Is that a 007 circulator on that zone? Can you put a multispeed circulator on there to see if running on a slower speed will solve the problem?

drafty doors:

@ January 24, 2011 7:47 PM in Should I replace sliding patio door?

A third world way to check if the door replacement would help is to take a big blanket and hand it up in front of the door. If the temperature starts going up, there's your answer.  A nice set of heavy drapes that you could pull across the door at night or when it gets really cold. If the sun shines through the door during the day, open the drapes.
Do you have recessed ceiling lights in the ceiling? If you do, shoot your infra-red thermometer in the cans and see what the temperature is. If they are low, you have a heat loss. Take a lit cigarette and hold it up to the light. If the smoke gets sucked in, you have a vacuum cleaner running outside that is sucking the heat out of the room.
Did you shoot the ceiling? What's the temp? You can figure out a lot with a heat gun.

Nozzles:

@ January 23, 2011 10:59 PM in nozzles

Steam,
All nozzle brands are not the same.
I strongly suggest contacting the burner manufacturer for what they recommend when they were spec'ing Hago's. The cost of a phone call is cheaper than a free service call.

CPVC

@ January 23, 2011 10:52 PM in CPVC and Air in the System

Ah Mark,
that'just a trifling thing. It will be working when they leave. It's for "others" to worry about it. And the first one to tell them it is wrong will be labeled an a$$hole and they will hire someone else to tell they did good.

Water Pressure:

@ January 23, 2011 10:21 PM in water pressure

You have more issues than a water booster system.
What kind of a well pump do you have?
What kind of well do you have? Is it a 4" casing with a submersible pump with the pump in the casing or is it an ejector pump with the pump on the ground with line(s) going down the well.
How far to water.
How many GPM's does the well produce.
It's important because it determines whether you can use a booster pump or just need a different pump. Actually, you don't need a booster pump.
Give me the information and I will tell you what you can do. 

Bad Oil/#6 Oil:

@ January 23, 2011 3:12 PM in Bad Oil??

I just noticed that this is #6 oil. Are you sure it is #6 and not asphalt? Even if it is #6, you know that you must do a lot of different things with that stuff. Maybe it isn't hot enough. I don't remember if there's a difference between #6 oil and "Bunker C" but I think that Bunker C is a poorer quality fuel. I'd be calling the oil company and asking for some answers.
That's a really specialized product.

Hago Nozzles:

@ January 23, 2011 3:01 PM in nozzles

Here's the Hago/Danfoss Website.
Ask them.

http://hago.danfoss.com/default.aspx

Hago Nozzles:

@ January 23, 2011 2:58 PM in nozzles

It's my understanding that Hago nozzles were bought out by Monarch or Danfoss. If you want Hago nozzles, I am told that they are available but you must special order 192 (16 dozen) nozzles of the same size.
I would suggest that if you have an application that the manufacturer is recommending a Hago nozzle for your application, you contact them for assistance in what they recommend in their burner. Most of Carlin and Becketts suggest Delavans.

Firefighter Madness:

@ January 23, 2011 2:46 PM in Oil Burner Madness

The Volunteer firefighter should stick to putting out fires and leave the rest to Pro's like those of us who try to make a living doing such.
The guy who told you that a used oil tank was cheaper than a new one must be a firefighter, New oil tanks are cheap. If the oil filter is outside above the tank, it doesn't belong there. It belongs snuggled up to the oil burner. Right next to the heating appliance. A old, dirty tank costs money from a shortened life and crud in the tank. Causing more service calls.
The new oil piping should have been a two pipe system. Then, the oil is always cold and gels the filter. If a one pipe system is used, then you have vacuum issues. A vacuum leak will break the syphon. A Tigerloop is the only solution and the correct install for this equipment.
If the tank could have been installed inside, it should have been installed there. Oil tanks don't belong outside if it can be helped.
IMO.

System corrosion:

@ January 23, 2011 2:18 PM in CPVC and Air in the System

I don't know about PVC and CPVC but the Taco circulator has the wrong gaskets installed. I don't know about the rest. Those red rubber gaskets aren't OEM, the black square cut O-rings are. If the manufacturer wanted you to use red rubber gaskets, they would put them in the box. Does the fact that they only sent the black square O-rings tell you anything?
Using PVC and/or CPVC in the heat side of a hydronic heating system sounds like a bad idea gone worse.

Survey:

@ January 23, 2011 1:55 PM in A little survey

I haven't seen anytrhing I needed that was cheaper on the Internet than it was from my supplier. In other words, it's cheaper to buy from a Mechanica Wholesaler. My wholesaler selss products bought directly from the manufacturer or a Manufacturers Rep. I get a warranty. Not so from Internet suppliers. Internet suppliers find wholesalers who will sell them products on the cheap.
If Weil-McLain, HTP or Veissmann start selling on the Internet at the prices I pay, I'll stop using their products.

Oil Burner Madness:

@ January 23, 2011 9:09 AM in Oil Burner Madness

Your idea of "new" and replacement aren't the same. You said you replaced the old outside tank with a "used tank". Used tanks are usually full of sludge. Just waiting to be cleaned off by new oil. Did you use a canister type filter like a General or a Fulflo F4B? Change it to a Garber Spin on and use the restriction gauge on the filter to see what the vacuum is. Did you use flare fittings on the copper or compression fittings.
If you need to bleed the fuel system after it goes off, you have a vacuum leak. Did you use a two pipe oil system to go into the top of the tank? If you only used one pipe, how did you connect the dip tube into the top of the tank? With a union/coupling?
You need a Tigerloop.
The reason you can't find any oil burner techs to service your burner is because you have tried to save money and either done it yourself or hired handypersons to do your installs. No one likes to follow up after a $&&& job and fix what is wrong. So the oil tech doesn't get the work and then then don't get the experience.

Loop not heating:

@ January 23, 2011 8:47 AM in 1 radiant loop not heating

I may not be telling you anything but, if you can get into the return piping of the loop, take an air compressor and blow it backwards. If it is possible, you might blow out the obstruction.
I recently was called to a high end house that had just had an addition. The contractor moved the cellar wall out and there was a 1' space outside the wall for the submersible well casing. The roof had an overhang, covering a deck. Under the deck was the well casing. accessed by a hatch. The outside grade was brought up to the bottom of the deck so there was just one step to grade. The grade under the deck was left alone and there was 2' from the grade to the bottom of the deck joists. Water running off the roof ended up going under the deck. Flooding the under deck. A week of rain really flooded it. Muddy water went over the well cap. The water drained into the screen that lets air into the casing. The screen filtered the water only allowing very fine sand into the well. The pump pushed the sand all through out the potable water system. I was told that I was the third person called. I blew it all out with compressed air. Even the toilets wouldn't fill. The owner had bought all the high end fixtures off the Internet. No support or availability of parts.
My portable hot dog tank air compressor is my most important tool in my truck.

Phasing:

@ January 23, 2011 8:15 AM in Exploding Zone Valve windings

Sorry, I used the wrong term, "phasing". Same thing though. If the system worked until the 501R was installed, I would be looking for a wiring issue.
I'm not an electrician and only self taught from needing to resolve problems "others" couldn't. Terminals #1 and #2 have another transformer load. #2 and #3 have a transformer load. Where and how they meet is where the problems may arise. They meet at Terminal #2.
I've never seen a Taco 5** zone valve head do that in 40 years of using them. If the motor can't "push" the plunger down, and can't switch the power off, maybe it could do this. But you didn't say that the valve didn't work after changing the head. So, something else is causing it.
Loose connections can cause things like this.

Backfeeding/bypassing boiler feed:

@ January 22, 2011 9:31 PM in low pressure american standard boiler

Buy a washing machine hose. AKA "A Double Hose Connection". If you get a long one, you connect one to the bottom of the boiler and the other to a street pressure hose connection. If it is a long way, add a garden hose. A "Washing Machine Hose" has two female ends on it. Add water until the pressure on the gauge reads at least 12#. If you have a tank type expansion tank, now is a good time to drain it.

1 radiant loop:

@ January 22, 2011 9:12 PM in 1 radiant loop not heating

If you can't see the manifolds, or get to them, how do you know that you purged the one not working? If the manifolds are under or in the crawl, you should call the idiot who did the install to come out and help you purge it as punishment for doing something as stupid as that. If it has never worked, maybe that's why it doesn't work. It's never been purged.