Joined on September 13, 2010
Last Post on April 23, 2014
@ April 13, 2014 9:29 AM in What do you think of when somebody says Hydronics?If it wasn't for Government "Intervention", there would be no affordable milk or any other food commodities. The Wall Street Crime Syndicate and the Futures traders would all be broke, we would be in another depression and people would be using soup stones in their very thin stews.
There isn't a Wall Street Bankster that does as much work in a month as the average successful farmer does when he gets out of bed to put his boots on.
On another note, which you seem to know, you can not ever get too much water into animals. My wife and I have had horses for many, many years. We have had horses that won't drink cold water. Milk production and water are important. What is more important to milk production is proper digestion. Which can't happen without enough proper water. Water management with pets or livestock is critical. Same with humans. If you can't throw down a glass of ice water or chew ice cubes because your teeth hurt, think about a ruminant like a cow, goat or sheep with sensitive teeth trying to drink ice cold water in the winter. Animals can't talk. So you have to be aware.
Read a book, Guns, Germs & Steel", The fates of human societies. By Jared Diamond. If it weren't for ancient Farmers, we wouldn't be here typing on computers. What few of us, would be out hunting and gathering food.
If you want something interesting, find some "Farro" (Spelt) wheat grain. AKA Einkorn. one of the very first domesticated grains in the Fertile Crescent. Right tasty.
@ April 13, 2014 8:53 AM in But he's SO cuteOne of the few good uses of Coyotes. They can catch squirrels. They do it in pairs and catch them between trees. Fun to watch if you can ever see it.
@ April 13, 2014 8:32 AM in Need help heating/pumping Six OilFirst off, have you checked with your liability insurance carrier to see if you are covered for a project like this? It's like roofing or painting off of ladders.
A 250K gallon tank is no small tank. In New England in January, it becomes an asphalt tank. I don't understand how they could get product consistently out of that tank when it is 10 degrees and blowing 40 MPH from the NW without heat. Was there some form of powerhouse with a boiler that burned that stuff in a big boiler? I did a lot of work in a power plant that had stationary diesels that ran on #6 and all the storage tanks had heaters so they could get cold product to day tanks where they really controlled the temperature at the pour point.
We all love a challenge. Challenges are how we learn. We also learn that challenges are risky. There are companies who specialize in this stuff. What is the extent of what they want you to do? Who is going to cart off the oil? Who is going to clean up the mess in the tank? Is there a "roof" in the tank to stop evaporation and loss of product? If there's one of those in there, you really have a mess. Did you talk to any tank salvage companies? They are experienced in this. It is really a specialty task.
Please let inquisitive minds know how this plays out.
@ April 13, 2014 8:09 AM in High Vac Readings caused by BioFuel 20" ""The cost of natiural gas is not going to stay as low as it is now but oil will get more expensive too; the demand for both is just too great for prices to drop."" "
The "demand" is driven not by consumer demand, but the demand that the Wall Street Crime Syndicate pay off their Masters with more cash. The Banksters have stolen everything else, they need more sources of revenue.
@ April 13, 2014 8:04 AM in High Vac Readings caused by BioFuel 20That vacuum difference is about like the difference between a ice cream Frappe, made with a little ice cream or a lot. Of one of those things they sell you at Burger King or Mickey D's that you eat with a spoon when you get it, or wait for it to melt for a while and you drink it out of a straw.
If you are reading from a Garber Restriction Gauge, it shows green, yellow and red areas. As long as the needle is on the green or yellow, don't worry about it. When the pump is off, take a magic marker and mark a line where "0" (zero) is. Then, when you fire it off with a new filter, mark the running point on the plastic glass.
What's more important than anything else is that the filter traps anything that is coming along. Because if it gets past the filter, it won't be stopped by the pump strainer, but WILL be stopped by the nozzle strainer. And THAT will make it run badly, if at all.
If you put two spin-on's, the first will trap all of what can be trapped. The other one acts as a nozzle strainer but keeps the pump and nozzle clean.
IMO, don't even bother putting a garbage can with a bolt in the top as a primary filter. When the Garber/Spin-on is plugged, the garbage can will be totally plugged. With the garbage can and no spin-on, the nozzle will be plugged.
My old dead boss used to say to never to trust a gauge. There is no such thing as a trustful gauge that you pay under $10.00 for. $30.00+, maybe. I had two vacuum gauges with zero out screws and I checked them on shallow wells. I knew they were accurate. I kept them in a special place for special occasions. Minor vacuum pressure is not a good reason to switch to gas. You're only looking at the suction restriction in the piping.
@ April 11, 2014 6:10 PM in New Lead Free ball valvesWhen the solder is molten, it is bright and shiny at the face. You can hold the pipe in place while it is shiny. If you move it, it might be a leaker because there may be setting spots in the joint. Which may leak. If you watch the shiny molten solder, it will suddenly turn dull. That's when it solidifies. All the wiping should have been done by then. If you haven't done any soldering or "wiping" lead, you need to. To develop the feel for that space between molten and set.
I'm sure that you are a fine man with a torch. Anything I write here is to possibly help improve their skills. You heat a lead free ball valve with a flame thrower from the face back and to the other side next, you will lunch the ball seal, or not completely solder it.
Puss some old stuff apart that wasn't leaking and see what I mean. On 1" and larger, there will be all kinds of voids in the back of the fitting or the end of the tube. The solder didn't run there because part of the fitting was too hot and the solder ran out like water, while a back part was almost hot enough and would have taken solder if it wasn't all running out somewhere else.
@ April 11, 2014 5:50 PM in New Circ Pump Flange 90 Degrees OffYour Taco isn't the exception, your B&G EcoCir Vario is the exception. It has a rotated flange, rotated from what is considered a standard flange.
You probably bought it on-line and the Internet Sales person is clueless about what they are selling. Here is a Taco 007 PDF. Your 007 model # should show "007 FS" for standard flange. If it had been bought with a FR designation, it would be the right way. Although B&G only shows their EcoCircs as right angle flanged, they must offer reversing flanges that go either way with the same flange set. The person who helped you doesn't know his product. They should have asked you about flange direction.
@ April 11, 2014 5:07 PM in New Circ Pump Flange 90 Degrees OffTaco, B&G and WILO are made with the flanges aligned with the centerline of the motor and at 90 degrees to the centerline. There are add on, aftermarket flanges that rotate for just that reason.
@ April 11, 2014 2:41 PM in New Lead Free ball valvesIf you wait until the solder sets and then wipe it, you won't be able to tell if the fitting was hot enough. Lead free solder melts at under 500 degrees. Map Gas flame throwers won't silver braze easily but are well over 1100 degrees. If you overheat lead free, you ruin the joint and solder. If you solder a 3/4" copper tee, and it is still hot and melting solder 60 seconds after you moved the heat away, it was too hot and overheated. If, after 10 seconds, you can't wipe molten solder around the whole tee, it wasn't hot enough. Especially if you have a grape hanging off the bottom that won't wipe away. If you solder a pressure tee with the run in the vertical position and the branch in the horizontal, the bottom socket will hardly ever leak. The branch might leak on the top and the top fitting will leak anywhere along the top.
If you ever take apart 3" copper drainage fittings where the fittings are cast bronze (so as to get the best price for the pure copper), notice how much the copper tune isn't completely soldered at the back of the pipe or fitting.
@ April 11, 2014 2:17 PM in New Circ Pump Flange 90 Degrees OffIf the flanges are taped and doped, they should easily come off with two large water pump pliers. Or a couple of 18" pipe wrenches.
I don't know what is so special about your circulators of choice but most circulators (like Wilo) come as circulators with the flanges cast at 90 degrees.
Wilo also has flanges that rotate to any position and also use wide gaskets. You CAN"T use those POS red rubber ones that were phased out 50 years ago but some still try to use them. I switched to Wilo from Taco for that very reason.
I've been too tired for too long, replacing hard red rubber leaking gaskets that were the wrong gaskets.
Another trick not mentioned with the saw through the flange is that when you get really close to the threads, take a beater screw driver, back up the opposite side of the flange with a 10# mall, stick the beater screw driver in the saw kerf and beat it with a hammer. It will provide a little spread and make it easier to unscrew the old flange.
@ April 11, 2014 1:55 PM in By special request.99,9999% of intermittent water leaks through a ceiling with a bathroom above it is from some form of water getting through the walls around a tub or shower or a leaking shower valve.
Never take down a ceiling unless there is water steadily leaking through the ceiling.
@ April 10, 2014 7:40 PM in Mass Oil Burner ExamYou'll have to take a test.
You'll have to show some experience. You probably need some classes.
I took mine in the 1970's and where I worked, was pretty much wide open. I had to go to a Department of Public Safety and they asked me some questions. Today, its more organized.
Personally' I'd be spending my money on gas training. If you're a licensed plumber in Massachusetts, you must be doing your CEU's. 1/2 (3 Hours) are on gas. I'd be trying to hook up with Tim Mc Ilwaine for his gas training. If you can go gas, you can do oil. Not so much the other way around. Firedragon is the considered man for oil. But he's scaling his oil training back for gas.
@ April 10, 2014 10:36 AM in New Lead Free ball valvesPart of aging is that you don't notice things like you did when younger. If you can't pick out chords on a guitar or a piano, no matter how much you try, and you couldn't pass Typing 1 in Junior & High School, you probably often hit the "0" when you mean to hit the "9".
Along with quirky eyesight due to diabetes and bifocal lenses.
And care in proofreading.
But I can still see if the fitting isn't hot enough to be properly heated and soldered.
Wiping with a rag is another form of proofreading.
@ April 10, 2014 10:28 AM in Top of tank oil filterThe TL uses a 2 pipe pumping array. You need to install the by-pass plug like you would any other two pipe oil system.
@ April 10, 2014 9:58 AM in Heartbleed bugAlthough these threats may be out there, and I don't discount vulnerabilities, I always get nervous when I can go to some Web Site, they I would never be going to is able to get information from me through my connections. I've has so many web sites warn me by my anti-virus software, what I just don't act like the reat of the sheep in the flock.
I'm sure that Dan and his administrators are on the leading edge of Spamster evil.
@ April 9, 2014 10:41 AM in New Lead Free ball valvesA water spray bottle works really well to cool a soldered joint so it doesn't move. Its also handy for soldering in close places where you might burn the wood. Spray/soak it before you solder, It has to heat the water to vapor, and heat the wood to burn temperatures.
@ April 9, 2014 10:38 AM in New Lead Free ball valvesI always used a lot of Van Hangers. The clamp won't fit on the fitting without hitting the finish wall.
They sure are nice when you need to install a valve in a leaking line.
@ April 9, 2014 10:35 AM in New Lead Free ball valvesMany of us were seeing no-lead valves for the last few years. Try this.
Take a piece of yellow brass tube. Like for a sink drain. Without cleaning or sanding it, slather some paste on it. Then, heat it up and see if the solder will flow. All the paste I ever used worked on it. The solder should flow easily when you have the tube hot enough and run where the heat if.
As far as soldering, I haven't seen a lot of people really properly solder fittings so as to not have a potential of a leak. You have to heat from the back of the fitting, not the face. When done, you need to wipe off the paste and solder. If, when you remove the torch, and you can't wipe the solder around the face of the fitting, it wasn't hot enough. If you solder a ball valve, and solder it from the face, and switch to the other end, and do the same, if you can't wile the solder from both ends of the valve, the middle isn't soldered. If you try to get the middle hot enough by soldering the face, you will overheat the middle because the excess heat from the ends. Which will destroy the plastic or Teflon ball seats and the valve will leak. Make sure that the ball valve is in the open position. Or the water in the valve from manufacturing will blow the seat apart from excessive steam pressure. You don't need a 3000 degree flame thrower to heat copper fittings and valves.
How many times have you pulled something apart and much od the back side was black with paste but not soldered? Next time you take some 1' copper fittings out, cut the back 1/4 with a saw. Look at the solder voids. They didn't leak, but it wasn't hot enough. Especially ball valves. Because there is so much mass in the middle.
You're overheating the fitting.
Pasting the inside of the fitting and the tube is good practice.
Every paste I ever used, you could paste up a dirty, un-sanded piece of copper, heat it up, the paste would clean it and you could run solder on it. If you overheat the tube, the paste burns and the solder won't stick.
Try soldering two pieces of lead sheet together. If you overheat the lead, it will melt. You shouldn't be soldering way above the melting point of the solder. Unless you like leaks.
In 1067, when I took my Journeymen's exam. t e practical part was to silver braze a piece of 3/4copper to a 3/4" CXF adapter. If the inspector saw you hold the flame on the face of the adapter and not start from the back, they would take the piece, cool it off and cut it off at the base. If there was a void, you failed. I passed.
@ April 9, 2014 9:47 AM in Top of tank oil filterIs there some reason you won't use a Tigerloop at the burner and a filter there too? Then, you only have one line to suck off from the tank?
Like they do all over Europe? In fact, in some European countries, they are required, no matter what you do.
I can imagine myself if confronted with a oil filter mounted on the top of the tank. I get out the catch panand balance it on top of the tank. About the time I get the canister off and the oil is in the catch pan, it falls off the top of the tank, spills down the side of the tank and drips on the floor. I have to get out more Speedy-Dry and clean up the mess. A filter at the burner/Tigerloop, allows me to put the catch pan on the floor and catch all the oil. Only requiring a quick wipe with a rag.
@ April 9, 2014 9:37 AM in Recirc LineLet me understand this. You replaced your old (probably oil) boiler with a Lochinvar 199,000 BTU boiler that had some sort of a Taco 006BT 10 year old circulator. How many BTU's was the old boiler? Was a proper heat loss done for the building? Unless you have one large hacienda, it sounds like it is way oversized. An oversized boiler which you mentioned will not have the same turn down ratio that a properly sized boiler will give you.
But, they reconnected the old recirc line. And you are trying to save a slight amount of money by replacing the old circulator with another which will give you little if any savings.
Those of us still living in the past, always put a Honeywell 4006A thermostat that would break on rise so when the return got hot, it stopped the circulator because the hot water was already back and there was no reason to run the recirculation circulator. If there is a clock timer that lets it run when no one is using water and just pumps water through the tank and back, THAT is un-efficient. The control scheme should be such that the boiler is on high fire when the circulator is on. You can heat an awful lot of potable water with 199,000 BTU's. In fact, 199,000 is a code limit for potable water heaters.
You'll be stepping over $100.00 bills to pick up a possible hand full of dimes.