Joined on September 13, 2010
Last Post on December 11, 2013
@ November 14, 2013 1:17 AM in Cast iron radiators- is there water in the feet?It also appears that the finish flooring is run parallel with the floor framing joists instead of perpendicular. That makes it so that the joists only have the flooring underneath to hold them in place and not the joists.
Like I said, you need an old dog carpenter that knows old houses in your area. It is an art and a science. Where do you live?
@ November 14, 2013 1:12 AM in Cast iron radiators- is there water in the feet?The carpenter in me says to be very careful. I would say that there are other issues that an old house carpenter might see that someone else might blindly rush in and create another dilemma. From what I see of the under floor framing, it has made that spot on the back of my neck get hot.
If the house is a Vic, it's probably balloon framed. Perhaps the "ribbon" that holds the joists (that is notched into the wall studs) has broken. Perhaps, because the supply and return for the radiator that was run into the corner was run into the wall below. Are the pipes exposed in the room below?
You need to get a mirror and look in there. Or find someone with a "See Snake" device and look for what is wrong.
That radiator is an old dog. You probably have a lot more like it without feet. Find the longest one without middle feet. If it's a Longfellow", without the feet, it will give you some idea as to how long a radiator has to be before it needs the center feet. You need to look farther into why the radiator did what it did. It wasn't like that when the old dead guys installed it.
@ November 12, 2013 10:42 PM in black pipe to copper - brass fittings?Here's the problem, someone, somewhere has stated (or) "It is written,,,"
that you need dialectic unions. Once that empirical proclamation is made, it becomes a Gospel.
I once installed a heating system in a barn and residence. There was supposed to be a "listed" hour fire rated wall between the hay storage and the residence. The carpenter didn't install it properly. It was an extremely difficult and expensive fix. Although 2 layers of 5/8" fire code sheetrock would equal the 2 hour rating, a solid 12" would NOT. A 4" concrete partition block wall would give you the listing but 12" of fire code would not. Because no one had ever paid for and tested a 12" sheet rock wall.
If the manufacturer of XYZ Dialectic Unions pays to get their unions listed, They need a ROI, Return On Investment.
@ November 12, 2013 10:28 PM in black pipe to copper - brass fittings?And they think that you MUST.
It says somewhere in a book with Specifications all spelled out for them.
Like that song in The Wizard Of Oz about "If I only had a brain".
@ November 12, 2013 6:54 PM in the maintence office person came againTell those a$$hats that a licensed plumber/pipefitter said they were idiots if they think it is normal.
They sound like "rednecks" and don't respect you. Not all Americans are like that.
@ November 12, 2013 10:59 AM in Testing a 15psi pressure safety valve on my boilerUhm, is this a steam boiler? They are rated for a maximum, of 15# PSI. The boiler has to be running and making steam when you test it.
Maybe the "Plumber" tried to explain that to you and you didn't want to hear it.
Post a photo of the boiler and installation. You may have the wrong relief valve for your installation.
Are you aware that PEX Supply made more money in profit by selling that valve to you on-line and letting you install it than I would have made if I bought it from my supplier, installed it and charged you for the valve and installation?
"Profit" is not an obscene concept and "Overhead" is not the ceiling above you.
@ November 12, 2013 10:47 AM in I lost a job to a company that did this:I was waiting for you to say that. I knew you would.
Its in the DNA.
@ November 12, 2013 10:44 AM in Quality of help on the WallIf someone doesn't think someone is capable of something, they usually ignore them. If someone is trying to do something that is dangerous and above their capabilities, someone might be testy if the offender is obnoxious or doesn't accept the help.
Some help is in the form of opinions. Opinions are like you know what. We all have one.
Some problems are overthought. I don't know your situation but it sounds like you have been asking around for a lot of ideas. Well and good. But if someone you don't know gives you an opinion that you try to explain to someone that has no idea what you are talking about, the eyes glass over.
I have done something for at least 40 years that sounds like what you need. It has worked for me well over 100 times. But there are some around and here that say it absolutely will not work and is wasteful. I don't bother anymore because they are smart and I am not.
But I works for me an always will.
The one thing that evens out all the issues becomes what someone will pay. What is it I say here last night? Expensive is expensive. But cheap is costly. Or, you get what you pay for by what you are willing to pay for.
@ November 12, 2013 10:20 AM in ceramic end coneIf it came with a ceramic end cone from the factory, and it needs to be replaced, it needs an end cone to maintain its UL listing.
It may be fine without it and you might luck out.
If "I"id it, the end would burn off, the appliance would overheat, and cause serious damage that I would be responsible for and my liability insurance policy might take a hit.
I don't exactly know what your end cone is like. The ones I am familiar with just slip over the steel end cone. The ceramic one is to protect the steel from excessive reflected heat. Look on the manufacturers installation says. Or contact them. There's a reason its there. Maybe it doesn't need to be there and someone put it on for a reason. Like positive over fire pressure.
Find out why it was there in the first place.
@ November 12, 2013 10:11 AM in Galvanized underground condensate return pipingGalvanized steel pipe is just steel pipe that is dipped in a molten zinc bath. It is sacrificial and will wear off.
A posed question.
I have seen galvanized water services that wee 100+ years old and the inside looked like they were just installed. The same galvanized steel pipe in a similar installation is full of holes and the inside of the pipe is full of plaque. What's the difference in pipe and how is it made? The local water company where I worked had a lot of old Wrought Iron pipe mains in the older parts of their systems with no problems.
@ November 12, 2013 1:02 AM in I lost a job to a company that did this:Nice drop header installation.
He could have saved some more money if he had used all DWV Copper drainage fittings. It would have looked even more professionally done. By a dubber.
Does it pound?
@ November 12, 2013 12:53 AM in video of pipe banging noiseMagic, it's too bad that you have to rent from a$$hats. That said, I have no idea what is causing the noise but any competent person should be able to figure it out, You are at a disadvantage because I don't think your English is all that god. Which isn't in any way a criticism of you in any way. I think that they are disrespecting you.
Like someone here said, it didn't make that noise when it was new. It would take one of us to follow the sound and decide what the cause is.
It can't be good for the system. Like I said, I've never heard anything like it.
Where are you located?
@ November 12, 2013 12:43 AM in Short cycleCheck the heat anticipator on the thermostat. Move the "pointer" in the direction of "Longer" which will be a change in number from say .04 to .06 or more. If it is a round Honeywell T-87 round thermostat with the mercury bulb, change it. Dispose of it properly.
I can explain better if you need but try that. It will usually fix it. That's on the assumption that when it does this, it starts cleanly, runs for a period and runs well. Then, shuts down for a period then starts up normally. It isn't misfiring. Like no ignition when starting. If it starts and only runs for 45 seconds, that's another issue. If it runs for 5 minutes, and stops, try the Thermostat setting.
@ November 12, 2013 12:32 AM in ceramic end coneIf it is what I think it is, its to help protect the end of the burner tube from overheating and melting down because of high temperatures in the chamber.
@ November 12, 2013 12:29 AM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil BurnerI see it now. The bottom of that pump is usually mounted on the top. The high pressure line was covering the supply and I couldn't see it.
As far as the CO detector, the UGI CO71A is a personal monitor that you can carry with you when you go into strange and unusual places. It can clip on to your bely. It has a 9 volt battery. If it ever sees 1000 PPM of CO, it looses its mind and you have to pull the battery to stop it. It doesn't take the place of a First Alert ceiling smoke and fire detector. It comes with a nice cover/case made from the hide of a Nauga. And like I said, I have placed it into a running exhaust with my Bacharach Insight and they read the same. I don't use it as a test and/or analyzer, I use it to possibly save my old retired behind.
@ November 10, 2013 10:25 AM in Does anyone still....If he was one of them young whippersnappers today, and he used 1/2" or 3/4" Blue Monster, Meg-Loc (or other modern thread sealing compounds) and a can of AeroKroil, he's put that old junk gas goop in the hazardous waste bin. That stuff came from manufactured gas and not available in Well Head gas.
Being old enough to have used both, and worked through the transition, there is no way I would ever go back.
@ November 10, 2013 10:12 AM in Mono flow kicking my butt....The way you describe and I understand what you did, that both come off the same set of Mono-flows, the upper one will always take priority over the one that goes down. Mono-flow "one pipe" loops don't like to go down. You need a set of Mono-flows for each loop. And the ones that go "down" should have the branch's facing down and be 3/4". I've seen ones going "up" spaced with close nipples and worked fine for years. I've seen the same piped down that didn't work until they were spaced at least 18" apart.
Mono-Flows are like that little boy who was bad.
"When he was good, he was very, very good. But when he was bad, he was AWFUL".
@ November 9, 2013 10:56 PM in Does anyone still....The old dead guys used to use it a lot. I still saw it often on old brass and iron screw pipe. I/we always used it on well pipe that we drove for water wells. Teflon tape replaced it.
You install it just like Teflon Tape. It comes on a rill like a ball of kite string. Only it wasn't "braided" but was "twisted" and you cut off a piece long enough to properly wrap the threads. You separate one string and use one. Pulling out each successive string as you needed it.
You can probably get a ball of it from Crest or Sioux Chief. Or an old supply house.
@ November 9, 2013 8:57 PM in Slow leak at joint (picture)I've been a Licensed Massachusetts Journeyman Plumber since 1976 and a Licensed Massachusetts Master Plumber since 1974. I've soldered more than one pipe before.
What I wrote obviously wasn't for an experienced piper like you. It's for someone that might like a pointer or two.
My old Boss had a thing about Street fittings. They cost more than an ell. Only use a Street Ell when there was no other way. Plan your piping around not using them. Later I figured out (through experience) that there was another reason. It was easy to overheat and/or under heat a Street fitting and get a leak where that one is leaking.
Be careful making empirical statements about how fast you can pipe something. You might find out that you can't do something as fast as you think.
@ November 9, 2013 8:41 PM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil BurnerThe owner of the supply company once told me about a guy he traded with who really got into his oil burners. If he had to go out in public, he sprinkled it vigorously about his person to cover up the smell.
@ November 9, 2013 8:38 PM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil BurnerI know that. That's why I commented that it probably was a replaced rebuilt that is flipped over. Those J Pumps went 4 ways with 4 different models. The "A" mini-pumps are always on the left. A lot of those old flame throwers for those mud moorings had the pump on the right.
See the firomatic wheel in the third picture? How is that connected?
Either way, the HO probably has a 10 YO or less Honda in the driveway and a 60 YO boiler in the cellar.
@ November 9, 2013 8:20 PM in Does anyone still....I used that stuff until one day, while working in the local power plant, the Boss handed me a roll of Teflon Pipe Tape. I never uses wicking again.
If the old timer had been handed a roll of Teflon Pipe Tape way back when and he used it, he would have used Pipe Tape from then on. Especially the Blue Monster stuff.