Joined on September 13, 2010
Last Post on March 12, 2014
@ March 6, 2014 6:39 AM in Rinnai RH180 or 100 Gallon Atmospheric?I did the same thing on a job. It worked out really well.
Mine has "issues" with the municipal water system that kept sending black bits of something growing in their pipes that would get stuck in the inlet strainer of the Rannnai. I put a Cuno Stainless Steel filter that could handle hot water and not melt.
If it slows down, check that filter in the inlet. It isn't much and it takes very little to slow the flow and keep it off high fire.
@ March 6, 2014 6:19 AM in straight thread connection?That may be (an illegal connection).
But if I am trying to connect something of European design, where the British Standard Thread (BST) is the Universal International Standard, except in the USA, where National Pipe Thread (NPT) is standard, it becomes a problem when I am say out in Webster, MA and the only supply house that stocks the BST/NPT adapter I need is in Boston, and I have to get it working in an hour, and the 1/2" NPT fitting is the same as the BST fitting, I'll improvise like most of us will. Multiple wraps of Teflon and Rectorseal #100 or Meg-Loc and I'm done.
I have a set of Inch/Metric taps & Dies. There are TWO 1/8" taps. Both taps will fit in a 1/8" pipe fitting hole. But the BST is 27 TPI and the NPT is 28 TPI. Put the wrong one in and you wreck the threads beyond repaid. Unless you're willing to use Teflon tape. Which some refuse to do.
Like the Metric System. It should have been adopted. Anyone here who can count money is already using the Metric System.
How many "10's" in 100? Answer, 10.
How many "12's" in 100? Answer, 8.33333.
How many fingers do we have? 10.
How many toes do we have? 10.
What more can I say?
@ March 6, 2014 5:53 AM in steam pressure constantly releasing?If you smelled something burning in your house, would you wait to see if it went away before calling someone? If it went away and came back continuously, would you still wait and see if it stopped or wait and post to an internet help site and ask if there is a problem?
If you saw steam coming out of a pipe, some might mistake it for smoke without the smell. If you had called the fire department the first time you noticed it, they would have told you to call a professional heating person.
Like is being done here.
Probably a good reason to have manual high limit reset controls on residential boilers. After re-setting it a few times, maybe they get the idea that a "Safety" is just that. A device to make you safe.
Call someone right away. Its a safety issue.
@ March 5, 2014 11:24 AM in Honeywell air ventIf the pressure in the system becomes negative (vacuum), any opening to the system will suck air. If the air elimination device has a cap and it is left open, and the pressure goes negative, it will suck air.
Fix the reason that the system goes negative and you will solve the air problem. Keep the caps tight.
Remember, the lower the pressure, the lower the boiling point.
@ March 5, 2014 9:34 AM in Ultra 155> JM-BIf your boiler is smaller than a 155, it says that it must be 1" or larger. And the closely spaced tee's no farther apart that 12". You won an all counts.
@ March 5, 2014 9:21 AM in Ultra 155Post some pictures of the piping. Especially the closely spaced tees and their orientation.
My personal opinion and practice with a 1" primary loop with 1" closely spaced copper tees is through the runs with a 3" copper nipple between the tee's, on the run. Both horizontal or vertical. Not both, one horizontal and one vertical with a 90* or a Tee in between.
My practice. Maybe wrong.
@ March 5, 2014 9:12 AM in Gas furnace v hydro-air in remodelHydro-air/AC in an attic ROCKS in that application. Fish up a couple of insulated lines and it is a wonderful thing. Especially, the AC. How else would you get it up there?
As for the humidity, "Heat flows to cold, dampness flows to dryness". Its the moisture you want in the winter. Put steam humidification in the first floor system for winter use and comfort. Mother nature will take care of the second floor.
"Dampness flows to dryness". With very tight and well insulated houses, you can't get long enough run times to make "normal" humidification work well. Steam humidifiers, run off of humidistats will give you run times to circulate the moist air without the heat. The humidistat on the unit keeps it from running when the humidity level is proper. Just watch for water condensing on the inside of windows. The sign to cut back on the humidifier setting.
@ March 5, 2014 8:56 AM in Help needed on flame rollout switch keeping trippingI thought that the fan was supposed to run until after the gas valve closed? What's with it stopping before the flame stops and the gas valve closes?
I haven't worked on a HE in a while but I don't remember the fan stopping before the gas was shut off. Does it have a brain? You can't screw that up easily but if wired individually, sounds like maybe the fan motor and gas valve are crossed. If that's possible,
@ March 5, 2014 8:48 AM in geothermal vs. airsourceGroundwater is always moving unless it is "Perched Water", which isn't actually "Groundwater". Just water trapped in an impervious bowl. Groundwater is always moving toward you , then away from you. Which direction is the question. The USGS and your State usually have the information. If you find Hydrology maps for your area, you will find higher elevations of groundwater than others. Like everything else, the higher water flows to the lower water. The land elevations and the groundwater elevations are shown above "Mean Sea Level" (MSL).
@ March 5, 2014 8:37 AM in computer room heat gain questionThere's probably more heat given off by the humans when they are working in the room than by the equipment. They have a larger heat emitting surface than a computer.
Sounds like it is time for a Mini-Split. Properly sized of course.
@ March 5, 2014 8:32 AM in Steam boiler banging, hissing and water noiseSee the below PDF of the installation instructions for your P-68 Weil-Mclain. Read and look at page 11. If you decide that your boiler isn't pipes like the one in the manual, you probably need to call a Steam Professional to attend to it. If that "Pro", like the one who installed it 20+ years ago doesn't recognize the problem, find a REAL Pro that does.
Its amazing what one can learn by reading installation manuals.
@ March 4, 2014 6:51 PM in Foggy iceFoggy or translucent ice has dissolved gasses or fine solids in them. Clear ise is made in ice machines that that have water flowing over a frozen grid where the ice forms as a slab and the dissolved solids and gasses slide off with the flowing water.
Ice made in a ice cube tray will freeze from the outside in and the outside of the ice will be clear. But there will be bubbles and solids in the middle.
If the water ways in the ice machine are very dirty, that can cause it. Clean the machine for clear ice.
The ice piled up on a deck came from two ice makers. The ice that is easily seen comes from a machine that freezes water in a tray. The ice in the pots, the clear and hard to see ice is made in a commercial type machine that has water flowing and freezing to a cold plate. When the plate is thick enough, it is harvested to a heat grid and the cubes drop into a bin. The plate ice has no flavor. The tray ice can taste bad because of the flavors and odors can end up in the ice.
@ March 4, 2014 10:16 AM in Chimney LinerIts my understanding that the diameter of the liner is decided by the actual input of the appliance that is venting into it. Just because a boiler (like say a Weil-McLain WGO-3 oil boiler has a 7" exhaust doesn't mean that the liner has to be 7". Because the same boiler with 9 sections (WGO-9) uses the same rear section and needs a 7" vent.
The flue size is more dependent on how long the flue is and how many BTU's are going in to it.
Most chimney "Specialists" couldn't read a flue sizing chart of it was on a great big blackboard in Kindergarten.
I would question why the flue has fallen apart though. It may have been rotten in the first place. And condensation is the reason that you need the stainless steel liner.
He probably can't give you a understandable explanation of why flues need to be properly sized. About how the same flue that is too short will have the gasses going to fast and too long and they go too slow.
I would hope, but I'm not very hopeful.
@ March 4, 2014 9:15 AM in Leaking curved steam radiatorsSteamhead:
How did they pull/hold the sections together on the top? Over and under/side by side draw bolts? There isn't a plug that you could get out on the right end. There's a rod and nut sticking out below the first web but it doesn't appear to run through. I've seen old radiators that had the rods inside but it appeared that you couldn't get the end plugs out of them. Those old dogs were sure cleaver.
Notice the curved flooring detail by the old dead floor guys and how they followed the curve of the wall and made it work. Narrow maple wood strips bent to the outside curve of the floor. Vertical pieces under the radiator, cut to fit the curve and the wall/baseboard end bent to fit the curve.
No $1,000 Compound miter slide saws on THAT job. The band saw was back at the shop and would take a rigger to get it to the job.
The most enjoyable part of your work is probably the chance to see what those old dead guys were able to pull off without all the tools available today.
I needed a new compass/scribe recently because I lost my old 50+ YO Stanley one. I asked for a scribing compass. The guy thought I wanted someone to write things for me.
"Progress, not perfection" they say.
@ March 4, 2014 8:49 AM in Honeywell Zone Valve V8043 wiringI think that guy already has a 6 zone, zone valve panel. The installer got sick and couldn't finish the job. He needs to get the last zone wired so it works.
It can be confusing but look at how the other 5 zones are wired and what colors go to where.
@ March 4, 2014 8:37 AM in Waterlogged Compression tanksDid the maintenance personnel add a 50# relief valve a and raise the pressure in the system to 50#? That's way to high for a 3 story building. The higher pressures in the system will accelerate the absorption in the expansion tank.
A great source of air loss in expansion tanks is if you have one of those combination drain and vacuum fittings that let you let air into the tank while draining it. They usually have some sort of plug with a tapered end. After years of use, the ground joint faces get dinged up. I always wrapped them with Teflon Tape.
If you think the gauge glass rubber sleeves are leaking, hit it with high quality gas leak detector. If it bubbles, its leaking.
More important, if you can isolate the system from the boiler, make sure that the pressure reducing valve is working properly. Like if it is set for 12#, that it opens around 12# and shuts off at around 12#. If it doesn't open until the system pressure drops to 5#, like ME mentions, any auto vent above the boiler will suck air and create problems. If its an old CI 30 YO fill valve, replace it. I've seen a lot of quirky fill valves drive someone nuts.
And if the "maintenance" folks are so smart, rig them up with a place to connect a air hose with a air compressor so they can add air to the expansion tank and "pre-charge" the expansion tank. A big mistake for some is to drain the tank with a tank drain. Then, start filling the expansion tank while a vacuum exists. Instead of having the tank as 1/3 air (on the top), you can fill it with 2/3's air. Mark the gauge glass between 1/3 and 2/3. It will give them something else to do besides drink coffee and look at the women.
You may have to explain the finer points to this. Like opening a drain to let the excess water out of the system.
@ March 4, 2014 8:16 AM in Pressure Relief Valves on Expansion TanksME,
Have I been under the mistaken understanding that one properly sized relief device in a closed system covers the whole entire system to which it is connected to?
We put 75# pressure relief valves on Well Extrols because the tanks are rated for a maximum of 75#. We put 30# Pressure Relief valves on heating systems because boilers are rated for a maximum of 30# PSI working pressure.
Maybe I'm wrong. I say "You can't make this stuff up". Maybe I can't, but someone else can.
@ March 4, 2014 8:06 AM in Can license and hours transfer to MA?Treat them with respect and they usually return in kind.
@ March 4, 2014 8:01 AM in straight thread connection?I don't know about all OTHER plumbing codes, but I know of no requirement in the Massachusetts Unified Plumbing Code that states that pipe thread lubricant must be applied to ONLY the male portion of the pipe or fitting.
I have never seen a Massachusetts plumber put pipe dope on the insides of a fitting. There may be some.
I helped replace some boilers on an account where the mechanical company, rather than use Teflon Tape, "painted" both male and female ends of the fitting. That was the first and only time I ever saw anyone do it. After that (2000), whenever I had a particularly nasty connection to make, I smeared Rectorseal #5, Gasoila or BlueMol on the inside of the female side along with the Blue Monster tape and paste on the other male side, and that was that, Never a leak.
My old dead boss used to talk about Glycerin & Litharge. It would stop any leak. You put it on both sides. Maybe we should go back to that stuff. He said that you could never get it apart. If they were cast iron fittings, they would crack before they came apart. So, out with the 4# hammer.
@ March 3, 2014 10:16 AM in What's wrong with this?I don't know. If it was photo shopped, someone is very good. If someone piped it like that, maybe it was a gag.
In my long experience, I have seen a lot of very odd things. There is nothing that would surprise me anymore. I can see some one not realizing that the tape on the gas valve over the hole would think that the gas goes somewhere else.
I thought it worthy of a look.
@ March 3, 2014 10:10 AM in Sporadic Vac ReadingsNice neat install.
I mentioned a 20-1 filter rate. That one is it. If the Tigerloop is closest to the burner and the filter is connecter to the inlet of the tigerloop, it only filters the oil that it needs in the moment. Like if you are using a 1.00 GPH nozzle, the filter only filters 1.00 GPH of oil. The way it is connected now, the filter is filtering whatever the fuel pump is pumping to do its two pipe operation. That is a good way to pipe a burner with an outside oil tank that delivers cold oil. The resistance of the 20 +/- GPH oil, going through the pump and Tigerloop will warm it up for a better burn. IMO.
I personally, don't like those canister filters. There are too many places for them to leak. I don't know who makes it but it looks like General. I always had problems with the small red gasket on the top bleed screw. And there's no place to add a gauge.
IMO, you will find that the Garber gauge, located where it is, is the best place for it. It will show you the restriction in both filters. Just not which one. If the gauge suction pressure goes up though, it will probably be because the first filter (at the tank) passed sludge and it was trapped at the Spin-On at the burner because of the smaller Micron filter.
Putting the filter at the inlet of the Tigerloop, protects the Tigerloop. IMO.
But, nice neat install.