Joined on September 13, 2010
Last Post on December 12, 2013
@ November 9, 2013 8:41 PM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil BurnerThe owner of the supply company once told me about a guy he traded with who really got into his oil burners. If he had to go out in public, he sprinkled it vigorously about his person to cover up the smell.
@ November 9, 2013 8:38 PM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil BurnerI know that. That's why I commented that it probably was a replaced rebuilt that is flipped over. Those J Pumps went 4 ways with 4 different models. The "A" mini-pumps are always on the left. A lot of those old flame throwers for those mud moorings had the pump on the right.
See the firomatic wheel in the third picture? How is that connected?
Either way, the HO probably has a 10 YO or less Honda in the driveway and a 60 YO boiler in the cellar.
@ November 9, 2013 8:20 PM in Does anyone still....I used that stuff until one day, while working in the local power plant, the Boss handed me a roll of Teflon Pipe Tape. I never uses wicking again.
If the old timer had been handed a roll of Teflon Pipe Tape way back when and he used it, he would have used Pipe Tape from then on. Especially the Blue Monster stuff.
@ November 9, 2013 11:06 AM in odr with gravity - no pump!With everyone using multi-speed circulators. start at #2 and go up or down.
@ November 9, 2013 11:03 AM in Gas companies in CT make big push into oil territoryAnd once our dear friends the Wall Street Crime Syndicate and their close family cousins, the Wall Street Banksters, get done sewing up the energy supplies in the US and Canada, and are sending all petroleum products gathered in the USA and will be shipped on to the open world market to be sold to the highest bidder. Good Biddness.
Once they have a complete monopoly in North American Natural Gas, the Multinational energy companies (who we have been pouring billions of US welfare cash into, will be able to set the price to anything they want. The Vulture capitalists will cart our cash away.
It happens slowly so it doesn't hurt as much.
@ November 9, 2013 10:51 AM in Pipes leaking at shutoff connectors (All of them)Buy and install a pressure/vacuum steam gauge. It doesn't stop at zero but goes negative. Buy a good one, not a cheap one.
You're learning why using rubber "Armaflex" type insulation doesn't work as well on heating systems. Especially steam. It shrinks. Fiberglass is a lot more expensive, it's better and doesn't shrink.
If the "Steamers" here agree with me about the gauge, perhaps they will recommend one. I don't consider myself a "Steamer". I can get "Steamed Up" when I see some of the things that the "You Can't Fix Stupid" crowd do.
Some may say that about me.
@ November 9, 2013 10:43 AM in Undersized nozzle installed (.85), boiler lists 1.1 to be used.Is there any holes in the smoke pipe when it leaves the boiler?
Me thinks, NO. If he can't explain why he put a .85 GPH nozzle when it calls for a higher one, and he doesn't know that the reason for a smaller nozzle has to do with the GPH flow at what pressures, he clearly is a knucklehead.
Before I left, I had done a lot of repair and re-piping on a Power flame GO-3 combination gas/LP-Oil burner fired at 25 GPH on oil. The manufacturer's rep was required to be there for the initial firing as per gas code. Although there was a fuel pump pressure gauge on the pump, I was asked to install a 300# gauge on the nozzle line. It was a learning experience to see visually what the change in nozzle pressures did to the CO and combustion numbers.
Anyone not using combustion analysis equipment is just peeing in the dark and hoping that they don't pee on their leg.
@ November 9, 2013 10:20 AM in odr with gravity - no pump!And the heat anticipator in the thermostat is the adjustment to make the burner run longer or shorter times. The anticipator in a sense, is the adjustment of the ODR cycle adjustment.
How far we've come to get back to where we started.
If you have a "virgin", untouched working gravity system with all the great big pipes, the flow will be equal and the same 1GPM goes through the radiators with little resistance in the system. Add a loop and upset the balance, and have an area that doesn't heat as fast as another, add the circulator. It overcomes the resistance of the bad part. The difference in concept is no different in an old gravity system than in the new wall hung SS boilers that will be lining the sidewalks in 5 to 10 years, waiting to be recycled.
How far have we come?
@ November 9, 2013 10:12 AM in Which Pipe Sealant?Teflon Tape on everything. Now, only the Blue Monster stuff in the 1/2" x 1429" rolls. You don't loose them as easily. Rectorseal #5 on gas or any of the other kinds that you can't get off your tools or clothes or Rectorseal #100 with Virgin Teflon or MegLoc on potable water. Almost 100% leak proof.
Heat is Teflon Tape with usually Rectorseal #5.
PROPERLY APPLIED Tape!!!!!
@ November 9, 2013 10:05 AM in Dielectric UnionsThe codes all say to use Dialectic Unions on dissimilar metals. That said, in over 50 years I never used one intentionally. The ones I found installed on water heaters were usually leaking and the tank was also leaking. The unions were usually leaking on the gasket or ones installed outside on LP gas lines usually had rotted union nuts.
But the "code" requires them so I guess that makes me an Outlaw. And the inspectors never made us install them. They were always plumbers too. Perhaps their experience was similar to mine. And our local supply houses never carried them. Special order if you want them.
@ November 9, 2013 9:40 AM in Slow leak at joint (picture)Whomever installed those fittings in the first place was a hackaroo. If they had held the pipe riser or squeezed the tube, it wouldn't have moved. If the joints had been wiped with a rag, the installer would have known that the fitting either wasn't soldered properly of it moved. More likely, it wasn't completely heated enough for a proper solder job.
The Hackaroo probably heated the joints from the "tee" and then did the St. 90 last. Using a rag would have shown that the last fitting to be soldered, the bottom of the Street Ell wouldn't be hot. Or, if it moves. A leak. When you pull it apart, if the end of the tube isn't completely soldered, it wasn't hot enough. If it is completely soldered but part of the solder is a dull grey, it moved.
So many "plumbers" today use a Bernzomatic Blow Torch that burns the wall 12" away. A Air/Acetylene "Prestolite" type with a #3 tip always gets the fitting just right and you can reach behind it with the tip of the flame. I always am extra careful when I use my Blow Torch because it is so hard to feel when the back side of the fittings that you can't reach.
And pasting both the pipe and fittings goes a long way. It almost looks like it leaked and someone red" the pipe to stop the leak.
Seen that before. There's the right way. And the "other" way.
@ November 9, 2013 9:15 AM in odr with gravity - no pump!In a sense, you already have ODR with the system you describe. The system only gets hot enough to equal the heat loss to the outside. The system temperature should never get any hotter than the requirement to heat the building. That's what ODR is really based on.
If you had a circulator, it becomes something else but if there is no limit or operating controller and only a high limit control, the room thermostat is actually sensing the outside temperature. Gravity flow is the original constant circulation. The flow through the big pipes is equal to a circulator forcing the water through small pipes.
@ November 9, 2013 9:07 AM in Leaking Fuel Pump on Beckett BurnerIf it is making "noise" and the "noise" was there before and after the pump was changed, the noise is coming from somewhere. Couplers are cheap. Old motors can have "side play" and it can have "end play". End play isn't noticed as much but is worse. And if a coupler is replaced, it is easy to cut it too long and push the motor shaft against the thrust bearing. If you slide the motor out an inch or two, and you try to slide the fan cage from left to right, it shouldn't move. If it does, replace the motor. When you install a new motor, there is an end setting from the motor frame to the fan body. It is designed to keep the air pressure proper. If the fan cage is sliding back and forth, the combustion air isn't being kept equal. The plastic coupler end that goes onto the pump wears the most because of the smaller shaft. Not usually the other end on the motor shaft.
Parts changers, beware.
@ November 9, 2013 8:48 AM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil BurnerGet that boat mooring down to the town pier so someone can use it for it's new purpose. Which is keeping a boat in one place in the harbor. A quality "Mud Mooring".
You see soot in the cellar? If you see soot, combustion gasses are leaking out. Combustion gasses have CO. CO can KILL you. Do you have an electronic analyzer? What's the CO when running or leaking out?
If you don't have an analyzer, at least buy a UGI CO 71A personal CO detector. It is every bit as accurate as my Bacharach Insight. I've tested them together. It can O can kill you before you know its happening to you.
You may not care about yourself but there's someone, somewhere that cares and loves you. Don't make them sad. If the homeowner doesn't want to correct this situation, wish then health, happiness and long distance. I'll bet that they have had at least 10 cars since that thing was installed. If they're too cheap to do the right thing, and someone is injured or killed, they will not be your friend and the tires on a bus are big. The back ones have dual wheels on the back.
They'll be switching to gas soon anyway.
PS There appears to be a Firomatic wheel behind the pump in the third photo but for the life of me, I can't understand how it works. It almost looks like it is on the return or the pump is flipped because it is the wrong 1725 RPM J pump.
@ November 9, 2013 8:33 AM in Thermopride OL26 Collapsed combustion chamberIts too expensive to clean them properly. If you can't clean 8 appliances in an 8 hour day, you aren't making the boss (or yourself) any money.
Those service contract cleanings are the best. You get what you pay for. Every year.
From the time you leave the last job, you should be able to go to the next one. Clean the burner, change the nozzle, adjust the igniters correctly, change the pump strainer and filter (s), check and adjust the fuel pressure, then completely clean the HX by removing the burner, cleaning the crud out of the combustion chamber and do any testing required to be sure that there are no cracks or leaks in the HX, and then test it with an electronic combustion analyzer. Pick up your tools and get to the next cleaning. All within the allotted hour.
That's what the Service Manager EXPECTS.
I was a failure. I've never been able to do that.
@ November 5, 2013 6:44 PM in firematic valveWait a minute. You heated it up to test it? It is a one time fuse. If you heated it up emough to melt the solder and the wheel and valve doesn't work, time for a new wheel. Maybe a whole new valve too. But you don't heat it to test it.
@ November 5, 2013 6:40 PM in Leaking Fuel Pump on Beckett BurnerWhen the next pump fails, change the motor and the coupler. The motor may have a slightly bent shaft and it is putting a slight amount of sideways thrust on the pump shaft. Did the service guy replace the coupler when he changed the pump?
Some of us here can hear strange things that experience has taught us what they mean. It isn't something that can be explained.
In my career, I have had Beckett's that defied correction. I found that a new Carlin EZ-1 was a complete solution. It's hard to see how a tank could be so high above the burner that it needs a OSV for the reasons given to correct your problem. OSV valves are nice but I don't see where it will solve your problem. Unless I missed something. A proper pressure gauge should be put on the oil inlet supply to the pump. If it is less than 3#, the OSV is nice but not the cause of the pump failures. I'd look more to a misalignment problem.
But that's JMO.
@ November 5, 2013 6:19 PM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil BurnerThe best service you can do on that is to take a heavy duty 2 wheel dolly under the boiler block, disconnect all water and oil piping, and take it outside. Leave it at the curb and have some recycler come pick it up.
Then, replace it with something modern and efficient, gas or oil.
The errors in the three photo's are TNTL. Too Numerous To List.
@ October 30, 2013 9:12 AM in here's one for the hall of shameA correct conclusion is again noted.
@ October 30, 2013 9:02 AM in Tankless coilABSOLUTELY!!
Some boilers leak like an old canoe when cold. They stop when hot. Like Peerless JO-JOT's and W/M- 68's when they go out on safety
@ October 30, 2013 8:59 AM in How much condensation is too much?In my opinion and experience, all cold start boilers will make kibbles and bits when they are running cold. Some worse than others.
I'd put the triple acting aqua stat back on and set the operating control to 135 to 140 degrees and the high to 160 degrees. If in the middle of the winter, the house doesn't keep up, raise the high limit. It won't use jack schitt for oil compared to when it gets insulated with Kibbles & Bits.
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
@ October 30, 2013 8:52 AM in Diesel for home heating oil #2Taxed road diesel works fine in oil burners.
My son's father-in lay has a trash hauling and construction business. Hw hauls fuel for his equipment and uses it in his oil burning equipment at the business and his family homes. I call it "Yellow Oil". It is legal to do so. I have found that burning ULS road diesel keeps the boilers running in an almost "like new" condition. Last week, I cleaned one boiler, a Weil McLain WGOT-5 that I cleaned last time in 09/2010 and like the time before, there was a thin brown layer of ash. Strangely, there was little noticeable sludge in the Garber spin-on at the tank but the inlet side of the Gerber at the burner was heavily sludged up. That was after three years running though.