Joined on November 2, 2010
Last Post on July 13, 2014
@ July 13, 2014 10:41 PM in Bouncing Gas PressureThe system is being run temporarily in limp mode while we ensure equipment is working.
One day we will disconnect the appliances and blow compressed air through the system to see if any moisture comes out. I have heard stories first hand that when a large gas line has leaks they fill it with water, leave it open to rust and blow out the water. If that happened here, maybe they didnt blow it all out?! Time will tell.
@ July 10, 2014 7:14 PM in Bouncing Gas PressureGood evening Ray,
Any formulas or rules of thumb to calculate surge pipe sizing?
Thanks in advance.
@ July 9, 2014 7:09 PM in Looking at Split systemsSince this is a place where many will gather, two things to keep in mind. Sensible heat ratio and air changes per hour. Keeping the temperature cool is only part of the equation.
@ July 9, 2014 1:15 AM in Getting into mod/con businessI have seen a graph of dry base boilers vs wet base boilers that illustrated time on one axis and efficiency on the other axis. The wet base power burner boiler achieved higher efficiency quicker due to drying up the flu at a faster rate. Add that thought when comparing conventional dry base boilers to condensing equipment.
@ July 7, 2014 3:48 PM in Getting into mod/con businessYou are WAY off the mark. The difference i$ not proportional to the efficiency rating. Designed and implemented correctly there is more savings. Installing a mod con is not necessarily done for payback, its also for comfort, and for some its about the environment.
@ July 3, 2014 12:54 AM in Bouncing Gas PressureA SPECIAL thanks Tim and Ray for stepping in and replying! It seems that the line was sized for a specific inlet pressure that is actually not present every day, hence the intermittent lockouts.
We used a chart with a multiplication factor to work back what we are getting based off of our pressure drop from the meter to the boiler and the approximate length (including fittings). Slurping a slurpee through a coffee straw is whats going on. Had my head too wound up in the charts to realize the chart is based off of .3inwc and we had a deeper draw.
We spoke about adding a buffer pipe like Ray mentioned, however was told if any money was to be spent on gas, just run a new line rather then waste time at this point.
These boilers are EXTREMELY picky. You could sit there all day and baby sit them and they will lock out ten minutes after you leave. As a heads up for anyone buying, installing or servicing condensing equipment, be ready to be on your own and not get real help from the manufacture. They have been less then helpful here and in the past.
Ray, would you be able to lead me to a formula to use when up sizing piping diameter and length to aid in ignition?
Thanks again guys!
@ July 2, 2014 1:03 PM in Bouncing Gas PressureThanks for the reply. Would you have any photos of the fitting, or any other info how you got the gas company to commit and join forces to fix the issue?
@ July 2, 2014 9:35 AM in Bouncing Gas PressureKnight boilers. Located 35 feet away from the meter. Pipe sizing looks to have been longest branch method.
Thanks for your reply.
@ July 2, 2014 9:33 AM in Bouncing Gas PressureThere is a test port before the meter, however the guage reads identical.
All gas cocks are full port commercial style full port with a hole for a lock.
Thank you for your reply.
@ July 1, 2014 9:23 PM in Bouncing Gas PressureGood evening wallies,
Writing up a small paragraph and posting two videos in hopes someone has come across this issue before and can lead me in the correct direction.
Have a small building with two 600mbh condensing boilers. Two inch gas line from the street to the boilers. Low pressure in the street so there are no regulators. Gas main has a wye strainer which is clean and removed the basket for testing with no relief, so it was re-installed. Meter is a rotary style meter that is brand new due to me thinking it was the cause of the nuance spikes.
The first video is when only the commercial 160mbh dryer is running. Second video is when only a single boiler starts up and runs. The only thought I have is that there is water in the line however the drip legs were dry other then a few drops of oil. When one boiler is on, the second will lock out intermittently due to an unstable gas pressure. No regulators on the line. Gas company says they did their job as there is six inches of water column at the meter.
Hopefully your internet connection is fast enough to see the needle vibrating.
While I have you guys here, can anyone assist in sharing a source or pdf that illustrates and instructs how one can oversize a NG line to compensate for not enough pressure on start up? General gas sizing information would also be helpful as I can use a good brushing up on pressure drops, fittings and line length.
The boiler company said we need a pressure booster since the street cant deliver over seven in-wc. Never heard of such an apparatus.
Comments & suggestions welcome.
@ June 27, 2014 8:06 PM in capacitors - maintenance?Funny you wrote this, I was about to start a thread about this. The formula works sometimes. I use it on caps to see if they fall within the allowable percent written on the cap spec label.
This week I tested a capacitor and decided it was bad. The replacement capacitor had worse readings! made me think, is the old one bad?!
On a mother maintenance this week I found a capacitor that was feeding only 30vac between the fan and c terminal. Figured it was bad, replaced it and the new capacitor only had 50 volts between the two terminals. Go figure.... Somethings wrong but I don't know where to start first.
If anyone has a good article or pdf file to share on capacitors, please share it here. I as well as the rest of us are always looking to learn more.
@ June 22, 2014 2:13 PM in Ductless Split Head PlacementThe long wall with no windows faces NE.
I convinced to have the client go with a cassette in the living room since the ceiling framing allows the hight. The dining room does not have sufficient hight in the ceiling so a wall unit will complement it on the opposite of the dining room.
Thanks all for the replies.
@ June 19, 2014 6:24 PM in Ductless Split Head PlacementGood afternoon wallies,
The AC section has been quiet for the past few days, so to stir the pot here is a question for a job I am working on.
I have two options for head placement. One incorporates two units, the other requires just one.
CLICK FOR PHOTO
Cooling load for the two rooms is one ton. If I use the two head option, it would be a total of 14kbtuh (smallest units sold are 7kbtuh).
The red option: The Daikin split unit head can not throw the distance of the whole room, thus the need for a second ducted unit placed in the ceiling of the entrance closet.
The green option: One single head. Daikin says the motorized louvers can spread air flow 15* in either direction and continually oscillate.
@ June 13, 2014 1:41 PM in Whoops!Manuals are just so when you kneel down you dont dirty the your clean pants. :)
Probably a novice question, however why dont they come strapped and insulated from the manufacture?
@ June 13, 2014 1:38 PM in Returns covered by the SheetrockI bet if you turn on the system and look at the walls through an iR camera you may see a difference where the sheetrock is cooler due to convection.
If there is baseboard heat, heat the house to 80-85 degrees till the walls absorb the heat, and then turn on the AC and see where the sheetrock cools off rapidly.
Keep us posted Mr. NJ Designer.
@ June 10, 2014 9:56 PM in Volts x Amps x Power Factor = what?Yep Techman, good question.
When sizing fuses for DC, its VxA=W.
For AC its VxAxPF=W.
If we are looking for the fuse/breaker size for an appliance, you can use standard 125v or any numerical value you deem proper and place the appliance watts in the equasion VxAxPF=W if you are unsure what the actual voltage is.
What Techman is asking is, if you test your wall outlet and get 119vac, why do you still use the power factor in the equation? That is like taking the "efficiency" factor and using it twice.
@ June 8, 2014 9:50 PM in Phone Call or Email From Boiler Alarm ContactsGood evening wallies,
I have a pair of boilers that I am taking on for a new client that heat a building and DHW. The units must be operational all year. The boilers constantly lock out, which is how I got there. One of the steps requested by the client is correcting the issues at hand. The other request was to install a system that would notify both myself and the building manager when a boiler goes into lockout, before both boilers fault and the large water heaters loose temperature.
From the searching I have done, I have come up with the following solutions, all to connect from the alarm contacts of both boilers to a device that will be connected to the router.
MetroMail looks to be exactly what is needed in a small package. Any other options I may have missed?
Thanks in advance.
@ June 8, 2014 8:43 PM in Cleaning condensor coilsIn agreement with you Techman, the fan still needs to be removed to check the bearings, vacuum the crud and check the comp terminals. The sales pitch that the condenser fan does not have to be removed works well with the folks doing the $29.99 "tune up".
The maxi-vac iirc (if I recall correctly) may use a 5 or 10 gallon bucket as its water source.
Pros of the battery tote:
Professionalism - customer wont say, hey I can do that when he sees you with a hose (then bend the fins and call that his compressor is fried).
Preseason maintenance before winterized spigots are turned on.
Wont be dragging your hose across flower beds.
Kick ass for those attic evap coil cleanings.
Great on A coils that have a duct below (low water volume, high pressure - the drain pan will be able to handle the volume).
Another tool to purchase, and maintain.
On another note, what chemicals do you use on typical household condensers and evaporators?
@ June 8, 2014 4:13 PM in Cleaning condensor coilsTechman, I think he is referring to these tools.
@ June 1, 2014 10:37 PM in Should I stock a spare igniter and flame sensor for my Knight Boiler?Due to the nature of the beast, murphys law dictates when the equipment goes down, it wont be either of those parts. There is a fan, board, sensors, etc. Better off having a whole separate heat source. Get a budget cast iron boiler, ductless heat pump, or a plain old wood stove.
@ June 1, 2014 10:27 PM in Power transient freezes Lochinvar Knight controllerHave you considered a computer ups?