Joined on November 25, 2010
Last Post on May 25, 2014
@ May 25, 2014 7:33 AM in new electronic gaugesI'm old school and have always used the old compound gauges, but these new electronic gauges made by field piece or testo seem very cool. I've always used two sets of gauges because I never want the oil from R22 units to mix with oil from R410A units since they are different. How do you guys feel about that? If I went electronic, I wouldn't want to buy two because they aren't cheap.
@ March 29, 2014 7:33 PM in Sporadic Vac ReadingsBelow is a quote from your first comment on this thread.
The photo's I posted are of some Garber Model R filters on a job with a UST that had a lot of sludge. Look carefully at the one photo and look at the sludge at the top (inlet) and look down inside. The bottom of the filter was still clean and passing product. I replaced a lot of underfloor oil lines to sleeved overhead oil lines and into the top of steel tanks.
@ March 29, 2014 7:48 AM in Sporadic Vac Readingsicesailor, where are the pictures you are talking about?
@ March 29, 2014 7:25 AM in draftreadings of .05 and above. sometimes as high a .10. Im talking mostly about your common 80% gas furnaces which don't have a drafhood. Are you saying a barametric damper can be installed on these units to lower the draft?
@ March 28, 2014 8:52 AM in draftIn at least alf of the gas units I service the draft is always higher than it should be, this obviously cuts down on the efficiency. Is there a quick fix to this? If it was oil, you could adjust the baraometric damper to lower the draft, can you do this with gas? The only time I've seen barometric dampers on 80% induced draft furnaces is when they have a side vent kit connected to it.
How about with 90 plus units? If you follow the manufacturers combustion piping directions, and the draft is to high, how do you lower it?
excessive draft is ok when it comes to safety because you know the stuff is going out, but it effects the efficiency because those gases are flying through the heat exchanger and all of the heat isn't being extracted.
I know some will say the flue piping is probably wrong, and they are probably right, but what if the flue piping checks out, then what?
@ March 14, 2014 7:50 AM in water in tankfrom all my readings and research it seems like it is very rare that a oil tech will actually take out the burner when servicing. To me if Im taking a boiler apart and cleaning out a blocked up heat exchanger, all that shit is going to the bottom of the and chamber. Doesn't it make sense to pull the burner out and put something there to catch the stuff and throw it away. Eventually if that isn't done, over the year is that build up is going to become a problem, maybe causing the erratic problem you were having heatpro on the one you spoke about that works fine, then goes out a couple days later? Or checking the proper alignment of the nozzle and electrodes, if that isnt right, that could cause erratic operation. Am I wrong? I seems like guys never take the burner completely out?
@ March 13, 2014 8:00 PM in water in tankI didn't want to offend the oil guys, and I know there is more time involved to clean and service an oil burner properly. I think I could make a fairly easy transition to oil once I get my feet wet on a couple of them. Its not like I'm a kid , I've been in the business for over 28 years. I do combustion analysis everyday on gas units. I will need to get some tools, smoke kit, draft gauge, pressure test, & some of the parts, but yeah I like getting dirty. I've read about 4 books and have taken a class on it. I also learn alot from reading what you guys have to say when you answer people's questions.
But what I was talking about as far as gas vs. oil, it seems to me that once you get the knack for oil, the parts, pumps motors, relays, etc are pretty much all the same. I know the basic gas boilers and furnaces are simple, but when you start getting into the variable furnaces, furnaces with the modulating gas valves and inducer motors, or the mod con boilers, they get a little tricky and they are all different. But to me if you know what you are doing, have the proper tools, and know how to test things, you could fix almost anything. Thanks for your help guys. I will definately be asking you for help if I run into a problem.
@ February 27, 2014 6:39 AM in multiple furnaces going off on flu limetHow about your temp rise? Is it right according to the nameplate?
@ February 26, 2014 7:38 PM in Proper AFG head?So you fire the thing up, I guess you would check for smoke, do a combustion analysis. What numbers would send up the red flag to you that you may have the wrong nozzle?
@ February 26, 2014 7:06 AM in Proper AFG head?So your saying if you install a new furnace, the nozzle that comes with that new burner may not work? that doesn't make sense.
@ February 24, 2014 5:01 PM in Proper AFG head?From what I read it seems that the nozzle size is determined by the manufacturer, so why would anybody try to change the nozzle that the manufacturer recommends?
@ February 21, 2014 9:02 AM in Oil furnace won't light!!This is one of the other things that scares me about getting into oil. I assume its pretty rare that you get one that is that soaked like Rrey said? Icesailor if i understand you right, You turn it on and then off quickly so that if there is a build up of oil it will light and be contained in the chamber and burn off? Or I like Rreys way also by manually lighting it and letting it burn.
@ February 21, 2014 8:52 AM in water in tankLike I said im a gas guy looking to get into oil. To me it seems like oil is easier to troubleshoot than gas? What's your opinion? The only thing that scares me is if something like that would happen, what would I do? I'm pretty much a one man show, so if I get stuck on something I don't have anyone to go to, its all on me.
@ February 21, 2014 8:45 AM in changing a garber filterCould you explain a little more in detail how the soot vac works?
@ February 20, 2014 7:46 PM in Oil furnace won't light!!Icesailor, what is the procedure when you know a homeowner has pushed the reset 20 times and the chamber is filled with oil?
@ February 20, 2014 7:40 PM in water in tankI more of a gas guy looking to get back into some oil work. I know sometime tanks get water in them which eventually could get to the burner and cause problems.
My question is how does the water get in there?
How do you know you have water in there?
How would you fix that problem to get the peoples heat going again?
@ February 20, 2014 7:35 PM in changing a garber filterHow would you fix or replace a bad valve if there is nothing before it to stop the oil?
@ January 26, 2014 6:50 PM in water in furnaceIt's in the basement, so it's not in a cold area. Also the combustion intake is on the top right side of the furnace where the leak is on the bottom left, so it's not close.
@ January 23, 2014 2:00 PM in water in furnacecustomer had no heat on a very cold snowy night here in the northeast the other day, but it started working erratically, and was working when I got there the following morning. I checked and cleaned all the drain hoses and trap. I checked the gas pressure, pressure switch pressures, and did a combustion test on it, everything was fine. The combustion inlet pipe is kind of low to the ground and I think a snow drift might have temporarily blocked it causing the erratic heat operation. Inside the furnace it was wet, not on the bottom where the blower is, but up in the burner compartment in the front of the heat exchanger where the drain hoses come out of the secondary heat exchanger. Nothing was obviously leaking, no stains of water or anything, but the tray was wet and it was rusted like it has been wet before. Any ideas? Can't be the secondary heat exchanger or I would probably see water on the bottom? This is a Ruud 90% about 10 years old.
@ January 12, 2014 1:34 PM in what to doSo a weighted barometric damper would work? Do you do this on your equipment ? I don't know what you mean by this " block off the integral draft hood or remove the external draft hood " Could you explain please? On n induced draft system there is no draft hood, unless your talking about an older furnace with no inducer motor.
@ January 12, 2014 10:25 AM in what to doallot of times when checking drafts on furnaces, I find the draft pressure to be higher than it should be. I know ideally we are looking for about a ,-04" draft on a conventional induced draft 80% furnace, but what would you do if the draft was higher? What if the draft was anywhere from - .05 - .15? If you check the sizing of the flue is right, if the gas pressure is right, how do you correct this? Could you put a barometric damper in the flue and adjust it with that? I'm just curious to see what you guys would do if this was your job? Obviously the furnace would work more efficiently if you could slow the combustion gases down where they should be so that more heat is extracted from them. What would you do?