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earl burnermann

earl burnermann

Joined on December 12, 2010

Last Post on July 16, 2014

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Mini split is a good idea

@ July 16, 2014 8:44 PM in boiler or forced air - need advice

You should look into having a high efficiency mini split installed. You get both ac and heat with most units. And they are very efficient when it comes to making heat. So you could put in the mini-split, and keep the klunker boiler as a back-up heat source.
I figured out what it would cost me to do it in my home on Long Island. It came out to only about a $50 dollar a year savings over the oil. But I'm paying about twenty three cents per kilowatt. If your electricity is cheaper this may do the trick for you. Get heat and ac for the price of one unit.

Interesting capaitor test

@ June 27, 2014 7:51 PM in capacitors - maintenance?

Here is a formula I found on another site. Lets you check the uf of a capacitor while it is running:

Read voltage from c to herm on the capacitor.
Read amps on start lead
(2652 x amps) /voltage = capacitance under load

2652 is the constant for 60 hz.
Haven't tried it yet but the others on the site claim it works.

where do you live that you are using heat in June?

@ June 13, 2014 7:36 PM in Outrageous Banging

Are there any calls for heat in your home at this time of year?
Are you using circulators or one circulator and multiple zone valves?
Do you have a indirect water heater that uses a zone valve to supply boiler water to the appliance during a call for hot water?
If you are using zone valves, what brand and model are you using?

Intel did it back in the day...

@ May 11, 2014 1:06 PM in Are you in the market for a Thermal Imager?

Years ago you could buy either a 286 or 386 machine. The two where the same chip, but the 286 was crippled. Guess it's sometimes easier to make the high price version and then just find a way to make some of the features unusable for the cheaper model. Think that is kind of how heating oil and diesel are today in New York; The same product, but one is colored red.

How about adding a loop using a flat plate heat exhanger?

@ May 11, 2014 1:00 PM in how prevalent is this?

What would you think about using a flat plate heat exchanger to create heating water to go to the radiant heating in a home. Did a energy audit with a group of fellow students on a Habitat for Humanity home built here on LI. The house was so tight and so well insulated I thought it might be a good idea to just install an efficient water heater and add a radiant loop with the heat exchanger.

Questions

@ May 3, 2014 11:53 AM in beckett aqua smart

How well insulated and air sealed is the home? Is the boiler running close to it's rated efficiency? Could there be a leak in the oil return line if it's two pipped? If the current boiler is using a triple aquastat then the change should be pretty simple. But if the home's oil consumption is unusually high then I would look to see what is causing it.

9 feet high and 50 feet long = 14" of vac

@ April 20, 2014 9:31 AM in Tiger loop

How does the fuel look in the tigerloop canister? Are you getting foam? A one stage-one line system is usually ok up to 6" of vac. A one-stage two pipe can go up to 10" of vac. Over that you usually need a two-stage 2-pipe system for up to 17" on vac and no more. If there isn't any foam in the tigerloop you should be ok. If there is foam, and you are not using a Riello burner, you may need to change over to a Sundstrand B pump.

Think your stuck

@ April 18, 2014 7:36 PM in Thermal Imaging

on getting that camera. I know the feeling, been there more times than I'd like to admit. That camera will help you find worn bearings on motors and even hot spots in electrical wiring. If I where you, I think I would recommend a company with bpi/resnet auditors to check out the tightness of your customer's homes. It's up to your customers to move on any reccomendations these companies may make on weatherproofing the home. But either way they will get a report that will show the tightness of the home and help you to decide on what needs to be done with the heating and cooling equipment.

Blower door first

@ April 16, 2014 5:53 PM in Thermal Imaging

Just completed the BPI energy auditor/building analyst program last summer and I'd say that a blower door would be my first choice if I was looking for leaks in a home. If you know the formula, this tool will tell you exactly how much air is leaking into (and out of the home).
Here's a link to the tool:
http://www.trutechtools.com/BlowerDoors
Here's a link to how to use it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHjI2Tfl5Xg
Thermal imaging cameras are great tools. but you are going to need a pretty good difference in temp from inside to outside for it to work. Blower doors work in all weather and can be used with the cameras to find leaks.

Draft Simulator

@ April 16, 2014 2:58 PM in draft simulator

I'd love to get my hands on one of those simulators. Probably the best way to make sure the pressure switch is working properly. Watched a video on them and it said to use the measurement on when the switch opens to test switches. One of the biggest benefits of this tool is that you can stock adjustable switches on your truck and set them to what you need on the job. No longer need to carry a variety of switches. Just make sure you note the iwc on the switch with a magic marker when you install it.

Think I figured it out.

@ February 16, 2014 5:07 PM in Time Meter for Riello F5 Burner

So I ran low voltage wire to terminals 1 and 2 this afternoon, hooked my meter up the other ends, put the pc back on and started the burner. When the coil was energized I got 0 vac, but I did get 25 vdc.

So I'm thinking I can power a RIB with this voltage. RIB coils will operate on 18 to 30 volts AC or DC. Then just use the NO connection to run a clock. Going to wait until the part house is open before I try it though. Too cold to go without heat tonight.

How do you know?

@ February 15, 2014 7:34 PM in 007 CAP

Many meters have a setting to test capacitors today. I had a motor that wouldn't start on a Riello. Thought the capacitor was bad and I was right. But when I tested it I found that the problem wasn't that the capacitor wasn't charging, the problem was it wouldn't let go of the charge. It climbed to three times its rating before I disconnected the meter. Changing capacitors is a lot easer than changing circulators.

tenant's home

@ February 8, 2014 5:43 PM in old furnace gas conversion

This is not for his primary home, it's for a rental. don't see anyone putting condensing equipment in a home they don't live in.
I'd check with the building department or an experienced gas service tech to make sure it's safe to convert this system. If it works you should have a happier tenant.

Go with an indirect

@ February 5, 2014 5:30 PM in oil fired hot water heater vs indirect off boiler ??

The only time I see a direct fired water heaters these days is when the customer is heating their home with a furnace.

It's not a good idea to shut off the new higher efficiency boilers for the summer. The ash inside tends to get wet during the summer and turns into high grade cement when turned on the next heating season. I've seen more than a few boilers replaced because they couldn't draft properly even after hours of trying to clear the sections.

Two other thoughts are you are going to need two oil lines and two vents to the chimney. One of my favorite calls is when the boiler or water heater won't stay on at the beginning of the heating season. The boiler hasn't really fired much during the summer so the slight restriction in the filter doesn't effect the flow. Now you have both units running and there is just not enough oil. On the other side, you may have a problem with draft. Not always, but it does happen.

 And lastly, You have stand by loss caused by room air being pulled through your heating appliances by the chimney during the off time. Just brings them on that much faster. But an indirect is a thermos. No loss due to the stack. I think my indirect looses maybe 1 or 2 degrees per hour. Hardly ever calls for heat unless it's used.

spilled oil

@ February 5, 2014 5:16 PM in Oil heat smell

I agree with the idea of oil spilled near the blower cabinet. While there could be a chance of a cracked heat exchanger, I don't think you would get an odor from the registers while running if the system is venting properly. High pressure goes to low pressure. So combustion gas would not travel to the air side of the heat exchanger. Most likely the air from the blower would enter the combustion chamber. Checking over the fire draft with a draft gauge would be a good place to start checking for a crack. If the draft changes when the blower comes on I'd dig deeper into checking the heat exchanger.

hydraulic delay?

@ February 5, 2014 5:06 PM in Riello F15?

I have never heard of a hydraulic delay. I have seen the air shutter delay when opening, but that is because the jack wasn't getting pure oil. A mix of air and oil or foaming oil due to an oil restriction will delay the opening of the air gate. Here is a link to this burner's install manual.
http://riellotechlit.webs.com/documents/F-15%20HYD.%20JACK.pdf

Where is your boiler return pipe located?

@ February 1, 2014 5:12 PM in Boiler Requires Water Addition Very Frequently

Is it visible or buried in the cement floor. If it's below the floor you may have a leak there.

find vacuum leak

@ January 25, 2014 3:34 PM in Riello 4.0

Do you have a buried tank? There is air leaking into your oil line from somewhere. Time to pull out the vacuum gauge and start looking.

cold start

@ January 19, 2014 9:39 AM in cold start or maintain temp?

My Biasi is heating three zones; Two are for heat and the third is for the indirect. My system is cold start.

riello pump couplers

@ January 19, 2014 9:36 AM in Riello Burner making noise

Riellos do have pump couplings. But they are one piece and very compact. I have never had to change one yet. If you are hearing a screeching type of noise the motor may be on its way out.

check ohms

@ December 28, 2013 9:19 PM in Oil burner relay

Next time it goes down get your multi meter and disconnect the two wires from the ff terminals of the safety relay. Restart the burner and check your ohms. If it's reading 1600 ohms or better then the eye is not seeing the flame properly. They sometimes start giving you random problems when the ohms reach around 1100. If your ohms reading is below 1000 then I'd say it is the cad cell relay. If it usually runs up to temp and goes off after running awhile it could be other things such as a clogged oil delivery system.

check cad cell eye ohms.

@ December 28, 2013 9:09 PM in Honeywell Relay Replacement

remove the cad cell eye leads  from the ff terminals and check how many ohms the eye is seeing. If its over 1600 then it is the eye or something obstructing the eye's view.
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