Security Seal Facebook Twitter GooglePlus Pinterest Newsletter Sign-up
The Wall
earl burnermann

earl burnermann

Joined on December 12, 2010

Last Post on April 16, 2014

Contact User

Recent Posts

1 2 3 4 5 »

Blower door first

@ April 16, 2014 5:53 PM in Thermal Imaging

Just completed the BPI energy auditor/building analyst program last summer and I'd say that a blower door would be my first choice if I was looking for leaks in a home. If you know the formula, this tool will tell you exactly how much air is leaking into (and out of the home).
Here's a link to the tool:
Here's a link to how to use it:
Thermal imaging cameras are great tools. but you are going to need a pretty good difference in temp from inside to outside for it to work. Blower doors work in all weather and can be used with the cameras to find leaks.

Draft Simulator

@ April 16, 2014 2:58 PM in draft simulator

I'd love to get my hands on one of those simulators. Probably the best way to make sure the pressure switch is working properly. Watched a video on them and it said to use the measurement on when the switch opens to test switches. One of the biggest benefits of this tool is that you can stock adjustable switches on your truck and set them to what you need on the job. No longer need to carry a variety of switches. Just make sure you note the iwc on the switch with a magic marker when you install it.

Think I figured it out.

@ February 16, 2014 5:07 PM in Time Meter for Riello F5 Burner

So I ran low voltage wire to terminals 1 and 2 this afternoon, hooked my meter up the other ends, put the pc back on and started the burner. When the coil was energized I got 0 vac, but I did get 25 vdc.

So I'm thinking I can power a RIB with this voltage. RIB coils will operate on 18 to 30 volts AC or DC. Then just use the NO connection to run a clock. Going to wait until the part house is open before I try it though. Too cold to go without heat tonight.

How do you know?

@ February 15, 2014 7:34 PM in 007 CAP

Many meters have a setting to test capacitors today. I had a motor that wouldn't start on a Riello. Thought the capacitor was bad and I was right. But when I tested it I found that the problem wasn't that the capacitor wasn't charging, the problem was it wouldn't let go of the charge. It climbed to three times its rating before I disconnected the meter. Changing capacitors is a lot easer than changing circulators.

tenant's home

@ February 8, 2014 5:43 PM in old furnace gas conversion

This is not for his primary home, it's for a rental. don't see anyone putting condensing equipment in a home they don't live in.
I'd check with the building department or an experienced gas service tech to make sure it's safe to convert this system. If it works you should have a happier tenant.

Go with an indirect

@ February 5, 2014 5:30 PM in oil fired hot water heater vs indirect off boiler ??

The only time I see a direct fired water heaters these days is when the customer is heating their home with a furnace.

It's not a good idea to shut off the new higher efficiency boilers for the summer. The ash inside tends to get wet during the summer and turns into high grade cement when turned on the next heating season. I've seen more than a few boilers replaced because they couldn't draft properly even after hours of trying to clear the sections.

Two other thoughts are you are going to need two oil lines and two vents to the chimney. One of my favorite calls is when the boiler or water heater won't stay on at the beginning of the heating season. The boiler hasn't really fired much during the summer so the slight restriction in the filter doesn't effect the flow. Now you have both units running and there is just not enough oil. On the other side, you may have a problem with draft. Not always, but it does happen.

 And lastly, You have stand by loss caused by room air being pulled through your heating appliances by the chimney during the off time. Just brings them on that much faster. But an indirect is a thermos. No loss due to the stack. I think my indirect looses maybe 1 or 2 degrees per hour. Hardly ever calls for heat unless it's used.

spilled oil

@ February 5, 2014 5:16 PM in Oil heat smell

I agree with the idea of oil spilled near the blower cabinet. While there could be a chance of a cracked heat exchanger, I don't think you would get an odor from the registers while running if the system is venting properly. High pressure goes to low pressure. So combustion gas would not travel to the air side of the heat exchanger. Most likely the air from the blower would enter the combustion chamber. Checking over the fire draft with a draft gauge would be a good place to start checking for a crack. If the draft changes when the blower comes on I'd dig deeper into checking the heat exchanger.

hydraulic delay?

@ February 5, 2014 5:06 PM in Riello F15?

I have never heard of a hydraulic delay. I have seen the air shutter delay when opening, but that is because the jack wasn't getting pure oil. A mix of air and oil or foaming oil due to an oil restriction will delay the opening of the air gate. Here is a link to this burner's install manual.

Where is your boiler return pipe located?

@ February 1, 2014 5:12 PM in Boiler Requires Water Addition Very Frequently

Is it visible or buried in the cement floor. If it's below the floor you may have a leak there.

find vacuum leak

@ January 25, 2014 3:34 PM in Riello 4.0

Do you have a buried tank? There is air leaking into your oil line from somewhere. Time to pull out the vacuum gauge and start looking.

cold start

@ January 19, 2014 9:39 AM in cold start or maintain temp?

My Biasi is heating three zones; Two are for heat and the third is for the indirect. My system is cold start.

riello pump couplers

@ January 19, 2014 9:36 AM in Riello Burner making noise

Riellos do have pump couplings. But they are one piece and very compact. I have never had to change one yet. If you are hearing a screeching type of noise the motor may be on its way out.

check ohms

@ December 28, 2013 9:19 PM in Oil burner relay

Next time it goes down get your multi meter and disconnect the two wires from the ff terminals of the safety relay. Restart the burner and check your ohms. If it's reading 1600 ohms or better then the eye is not seeing the flame properly. They sometimes start giving you random problems when the ohms reach around 1100. If your ohms reading is below 1000 then I'd say it is the cad cell relay. If it usually runs up to temp and goes off after running awhile it could be other things such as a clogged oil delivery system.

check cad cell eye ohms.

@ December 28, 2013 9:09 PM in Honeywell Relay Replacement

remove the cad cell eye leads  from the ff terminals and check how many ohms the eye is seeing. If its over 1600 then it is the eye or something obstructing the eye's view.

The pie

@ December 27, 2013 3:21 PM in Lp ga oven stopped baking.

was very tasty!

Condensate Neutralizer

@ December 26, 2013 3:13 PM in The effects of condensate

Draining into a pvc drain is fine but not into metal drains.

Here's a link to a condensate neutralizer. Make sure the one you get unscrews so you can change the media. We use these on all the boilers on our campus. When pH readings drops below 6 we dump and refill. Changing the media once a year should be fine for residential use. The tech that figured out how to recharge them uses a piece of screen on the outlet side to keep it from getting clogged by the new media which is plain old pelletized lime that you can get at your home garden store.

blower comes back on

@ December 25, 2013 3:18 PM in Oil burner blower

Although the call for heat has ended and the burner has turned off there is still heat in the combustion chamber that is re-heating the heat exchanger. If you have the mechanical type fan limit switch then when the temperature gets hot enough the fan switch reactivates and purges the heat out of the system.

Check to make sure your filter is clean, that your vents are open, and that no one has blocked any of them with, maybe, a Christmas tree and gifts.

Here are some videos that may help

@ December 22, 2013 6:28 PM in Recommendations for new flue gas analyzer- URGENT!

I'm a big fan of Testo. There are a bunch of Youtube videos produced by Jim Bergmann from Truetech Tools that show features of the Testo and Bacharach CAs. Here are a few links:
Testo 310, 320:
Bacharach Insight:

Bacharach Insight Plus:
Page for getting an idea of the equipment cost:


@ December 22, 2013 2:37 PM in Heat exchanger split after 4 years, misadjusted burner the cause?

Would fall first on the designer if the ducts are undersized. Next would be the tech that commissioned the unit and did not test or not care what the external static pressure or heat rise was. Last is the service tech that checks it each year. Oil companies don't usually go into checking ESP and the system's temperature rise.

Problem solved

@ December 22, 2013 12:59 PM in Lp ga oven stopped baking.

So I found out that the voltage travels through the HSI and activates the gas valve. The valve has a heater that delays it's opening. As the HSI looses it's strength, the time to open the valve increases. Eventually the HSI will wear out to the point that, although it glows, it will not send enough voltage to open the gas valve.

Other side of heat exchanger

@ December 22, 2013 12:52 PM in Heat exchanger split after 4 years, misadjusted burner the cause?

Before replacing the furnace with any brand of furnace or fuel I would make sure the ductwork was properly sized, all vents open, and a clean filter always in the air path. Installing new equipment that will have high external static pressure and a temperature rise higher or lower than the appliance is rated for is just going to lead to another hx failure as in the past.

Air flow

@ December 21, 2013 3:21 PM in Heat exchanger split after 4 years, misadjusted burner the cause?

A major cause of heat exchanger failure is the air flow from the heat exchanger to the conditioned space. Too much airflow cools the heat exchanger too much and could cause condensation and rotting from rust. Not enough air flow causes the heat exchanger to overheat and crack.

A sign that this is the problem is a short cycling burner. The heat exchanger gets so hot that the limit control turns off the burner but the fan continues to deliver heat. Then the burner comes back on and continues this on/off cycling until the thermostat is satisfied. The high temp limit is there to protect your unit from overheating due to some failure to your unit. It isn't there to operate continually as part of normal operation.
1 2 3 4 5 »