Joined on December 12, 2010
Last Post on July 16, 2014
@ December 26, 2013 3:13 PM in The effects of condensateDraining into a pvc drain is fine but not into metal drains.
Here's a link to a condensate neutralizer. Make sure the one you get unscrews so you can change the media. We use these on all the boilers on our campus. When pH readings drops below 6 we dump and refill. Changing the media once a year should be fine for residential use. The tech that figured out how to recharge them uses a piece of screen on the outlet side to keep it from getting clogged by the new media which is plain old pelletized lime that you can get at your home garden store.
@ December 25, 2013 3:18 PM in Oil burner blowerAlthough the call for heat has ended and the burner has turned off there is still heat in the combustion chamber that is re-heating the heat exchanger. If you have the mechanical type fan limit switch then when the temperature gets hot enough the fan switch reactivates and purges the heat out of the system.
Check to make sure your filter is clean, that your vents are open, and that no one has blocked any of them with, maybe, a Christmas tree and gifts.
@ December 22, 2013 6:28 PM in Recommendations for new flue gas analyzer- URGENT!I'm a big fan of Testo. There are a bunch of Youtube videos produced by Jim Bergmann from Truetech Tools that show features of the Testo and Bacharach CAs. Here are a few links:
Testo 310, 320:
Bacharach Insight Plus:
Page for getting an idea of the equipment cost:
@ December 22, 2013 2:37 PM in Heat exchanger split after 4 years, misadjusted burner the cause?Would fall first on the designer if the ducts are undersized. Next would be the tech that commissioned the unit and did not test or not care what the external static pressure or heat rise was. Last is the service tech that checks it each year. Oil companies don't usually go into checking ESP and the system's temperature rise.
@ December 22, 2013 12:59 PM in Lp ga oven stopped baking.So I found out that the voltage travels through the HSI and activates the gas valve. The valve has a heater that delays it's opening. As the HSI looses it's strength, the time to open the valve increases. Eventually the HSI will wear out to the point that, although it glows, it will not send enough voltage to open the gas valve.
@ December 22, 2013 12:52 PM in Heat exchanger split after 4 years, misadjusted burner the cause?Before replacing the furnace with any brand of furnace or fuel I would make sure the ductwork was properly sized, all vents open, and a clean filter always in the air path. Installing new equipment that will have high external static pressure and a temperature rise higher or lower than the appliance is rated for is just going to lead to another hx failure as in the past.
@ December 21, 2013 3:21 PM in Heat exchanger split after 4 years, misadjusted burner the cause?A major cause of heat exchanger failure is the air flow from the heat exchanger to the conditioned space. Too much airflow cools the heat exchanger too much and could cause condensation and rotting from rust. Not enough air flow causes the heat exchanger to overheat and crack.
A sign that this is the problem is a short cycling burner. The heat exchanger gets so hot that the limit control turns off the burner but the fan continues to deliver heat. Then the burner comes back on and continues this on/off cycling until the thermostat is satisfied. The high temp limit is there to protect your unit from overheating due to some failure to your unit. It isn't there to operate continually as part of normal operation.
@ December 21, 2013 3:06 PM in Lp ga oven stopped baking.Last night we lost gas to oven while baking. Could see the hot surface igniter glowing but no flame. Found the wiring diagram and saw that the HSI was wired in series to the gas valve. Had 120 volts to igniter, 0 volts coming out the other side. Checked the resistance to the gas valve coil and had 1.3 ohms. Switched the broiler HSI to the bake and the wife finished baking the pie.
So it looks like the HSI is also working as a safety. Could someone please explain? I am only used to seeing them wired in parallel to a heating unit with a flame sensor as the safety.
@ December 17, 2013 12:24 PM in williamson steam boiler not working? Need helpIn your post you said that when you jumped out the thermostat wires it worked. Did you jump them out at the thermostat? If you did then the only problem it could be is the thermostat. Hopefully, all the changes you made since then have not added to the problem.
@ December 14, 2013 2:57 PM in 10 seconds of oil smell when oil furnace starts upSome furnaces use temperature to start the fan but new ones are on a timer. I'm taking a wild guess that you have a oil spill, maybe in the blower cabinet that needs to be cleaned up. Could just be a small amount in the blower cabinet.
@ December 13, 2013 3:20 PM in Beckett Burner irregular tripsIf it's an old tar filled transformer then it could be getting weak. The new Carlin igniters have a bad habit of failing randomly. If you have a Carlin brand ignitor then I would recommend replacing it with either a Beckett or Allison brand igniter. These igniters are like light bulbs; once they fail they are not coming back. Makes troubleshooting the transformer easy.
@ December 13, 2013 3:15 PM in Boiler Pressure Spike while under heatYou could take the tank off and check the pressure with a tire gauge. It may have lost its air. Would recommend replacing it in this case. I've pumped a few back up but they just loose their air again in a few days.
@ December 13, 2013 3:10 PM in HYDRO THERM BOILER PROBLEMto call for service. Cost a couple of bucks but you will get your heat back full time.
@ December 12, 2013 8:41 PM in Boiler pressureProbably have spin-on expansion tank, or tanks to create an air cushion for the heated water. As the water in the system expands due to heat, the air behind the rubber diaphragm compresses and allows the water to enter the tank and keeps the boiler from flooding and dumping into the room. You need 1 psi of water pressure for every 2.31 feet the water has to travel up, plus 4 psi extra. That's what the fill valve should be set to when cold. What ever pressure that comes out to should be the pressure your expansion tank is charged to when installed.
@ December 12, 2013 8:30 PM in What is the definition ofis air brought in from the outside to supply enough oxygen for combustion.
@ December 3, 2013 1:45 PM in Beckett 7505 120V GeniSys ControlWhy don't you have the company that maintains your heating equipment wire this in for you? The diagram shows how it is done. If you don't completely understand this diagram you could do serious damage to the appliance.
@ November 29, 2013 9:44 PM in Maximizing efficiency of a mod con questionHere's a link to a pretty reasonable variable speed taco circulator. Set the Delta T and let her go...
@ November 21, 2013 9:34 AM in Ideal low and high temp for a biasi oil boilerI have a similar setup except my indirect is a phase III. I would start by making sure the water heater has priority. Next, I would lower the indirect's aquastat to the lowest setting that will still deliver the needed amount of hot water. Lastly, I would lower the aquastat to a point that can still supply the needed temp for your tank to recover. My boiler aquastat is set at 160 degrees and the indirect's aquastat is set between low and medium. Have mine adjusted to be able to fill my bath tub.
@ November 13, 2013 12:31 PM in Weil Mclain Ultra/DHW Issues againUsually the old parts that you leave on a new install are the one's that will bring you back to the job. But that old expansion tank and the old Air scoop shouldn't create a problem. As long as you completely drain that expansion tank you should be good. If the tank only drops a small amount of water it may be completely waterlogged. You have to get all 15 gallons out of it or the problem will be right back.
If after completely draining the tank the relief valve starts to leak again in a short time you may have a leak between the domestic and boiler water tanks in your water heater. This can be checked if you have a drain valve between the water heater and the isolation valves of the hot and cold water going to the water heater. Just pick up a presure gauge with a drain connector, They sell them at hardware stores and home depot, connect to the drain valve and open that valve. Next note the pressure on the gauge. Next, shut the isolation valves to the tank's hot and cold water. Check the pressure gauge.
If, with those valves closed, you see the pressure drop, you know the high pressure water from the domestic side is leaking into the much lower pressure boiler side. If this is happening the water heater must be replaced.
@ November 13, 2013 8:41 AM in Biasi boilerYes, this boiler is positive pressure. There are passageways between the combustion chamber and heat exchanger that may need to be cleaned. I've only cleaned them out once on a boiler that had clogged with soot. My Biasi is about nine years old and I have never needed to do this. I clean the combustion chamber every time I clean the boiler though