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earl burnermann

earl burnermann

Joined on December 12, 2010

Last Post on April 20, 2014

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Sweet!

@ November 10, 2013 7:01 AM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil Burner

;-)

Yes

@ November 10, 2013 6:59 AM in beckett cleancut pump

You should

that white chalky stuff on the floor

@ November 9, 2013 5:24 PM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil Burner

I think the stuff on the floor is left over odor kill powder. There may have been a pretty good size oil leak down there at one time. The mechanic most likely picked it up with speedy dry and when finished, put down a coating of odor kill, a white powder, and rubbed it into the floor.

I feel your pain.

@ November 9, 2013 5:11 PM in Gas companies in CT make big push into oil territory

Like you, I was in the oil industry for close to 25 years. Then came the layoffs in 2008 and 2009. I got caught up in the 2009 layoffs. The company I worked for let us know about two days before the cuts that an epa 608 certification would save our jobs. Never heard of this cert before.

Thought learning AC would get me a good job with an oil company again. But it didn't work out that way. I'm out of oil now and I do miss it. But with about 7% of the country heating with oil and over 60% using natural gas I had to make the change to working on gas and ac. Oil is going to be around but it hasn't grown in years and I just see it continuing to shrink.

Don't see prices really dropping

@ November 8, 2013 8:41 PM in Gas companies in CT make big push into oil territory

As gas conversions continue to squeeze the home heating companies the producers most likely won't feel the pinch. From what I've heard, there is a large world-wide demand for diesel fuel. So if the oil doesn't end up in a home's oil tank it will end up in some truckers' fuel tank someplace in the world.

Gas companies in CT make big push into oil territory

@ November 7, 2013 5:18 PM in Gas companies in CT make big push into oil territory

Just heard on WSHU this morning that CT gas companies have come up with a plan to push their gas lines further.

The story stated that a typical oil home that burns $2000 of fuel would only burn about $650 of gas. So the gas companies are going to bring the new lines right up to the house. But instead of charging the new customers up front for the service they are going to put a 10% surcharge on gas used for the next 10 years on these new installs.

The oil companies up in CT are screaming about this.

sooty film problem

@ November 7, 2013 5:00 PM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil Burner

Looking at the full boiler picture I see black marks on the sides of the top cleanout door. That is one spot where soot is most likely escaping from. On a delayed ignition you may have some soot also escaping from the draft regulator and the seams of the vent pipe.
These boilers are easy to clean but they aren't very tight as you can see by the easy access to the heat exchanger and combustion chamber through the doors.
You could seal around the doors with furnace cement and tape up where the vent pipe joins the next section with aluminum tape. Also make sure the chimney base is completely sealed with cement.
That will cut down on the mess, but this system is never going to run as clean as the newer equipment.

This Wayne is an early flame retention head burner

@ November 6, 2013 9:14 AM in Maintenance of Wayne Flame-Retention Oil Burner

It still has an iron end cone from the standard burner design. It also runs at 1725 rpm. But if you pull the nozzle assembly out of the tube, you will find a permanently installed turbulator on the end of the assembly. I remember it because it was one of the very few nozzle adapters that where 11/16" instead of 3/4".

I have or admit that I have never seen one that had been set up well enough not to prevent soot build up. So the right way to service this boiler is to vac it every year. Since it is probably the easiest boiler to clean, that shouldn't be a problem.

Here is the problem with upgrading the equipment: Let's say this system uses 800 gallons a year and upgrading saves 50%, if the upgrade cost $6500.00, it would only take a little longer than 4 1/2 years to break even. Not a bad deal, but as our customers' get older they don't think they will live long enough to get the payback. So if the home is comfortable, keep the equipment. One of these days the iron end cone will fail and then the only way to keep this unit going will be a burner upgrade.

You

@ November 5, 2013 8:26 AM in Combustion Analysis Results

Have posted your oil burner question in the gas forum.

Cheap vs safe way to proceed...

@ November 4, 2013 1:50 PM in converting a two line system to a single line

Ok, damage is done. There is a bypass screw in the old pump that allowed the oil, not sent to the nozzle, return to the tank. When you plugged and started the burner the oil found a new path--through the pump seal and all over the heating equipment. The cheap way is to just go out and buy an exact replacement pump. They are usually sold set up for one pipe operation.

The safe way to proceed is call a qualified professional and have the repair done right. Since you didn't know about the bypass plug, I am going to assume you don't know how to properly adjust the new pump, or test the unit after installation for safe and efficient operation. This would include testing for steady state efficiency and carbon monoxide spillage or backdraft.

Extol tank

@ November 3, 2013 7:32 PM in does everything look Okay?

How many feet of half inch copper do you have holding that expansion tank. When that tank fails I wouldn't be surprised if it slipped out of it's holster(?) and ripped off the boiler.

Do your research now

@ October 30, 2013 6:47 PM in Need help identifying old Burnham Holiday Series 1 Boiler

If I where you I would do as  much research relating to replacing that boiler now. Most people that want to stretch another season or two out of their heating and cooling systems usually run them to failure.

If you do the research now you won't be throwing in a possibly oversized boiler when that day comes. I would recommend getting an energy audit first. That way you know exactly how well your home holds the heat. You may end up saving a few bucks insulating and air sealing your house before the boiler is replaced.

Whether you decide to upgrade your insulation or not, with this information, you will be able to have a manual j heat load calculation done. You will then be able to have the proper sized unit installed when the time comes.
If the boiler is running ok, then here's your chance to get way ahead of the game.

Refractory debate

@ October 29, 2013 10:31 AM in Riello/Buderus G115

Think it depends on the boiler and burner. Just installed a blanket in a five section liberty slant fin/Beckett af and it made a word of difference.

Not sure about installing blanket

@ October 29, 2013 10:27 AM in Riello/Buderus G115

Installed a biasi boiler in my home years ago. It came with a napkin size piece of blanket material. No matter what I did, I could not get the efficiency over 80%. A few years later I was cleaning a customer's biasi and noticed their boiler was missing the blanket. This boiler had no problem reaching over 85% and absolutely no sooting. Came home removed the piece of blanket and raised the SSE. Absolutely no sign of soot since I did this too. I'm wondering what it's going to look like inside this year after running on uls fuel starting last heating season

Clogged oil line

@ October 13, 2013 6:37 AM in Help for first time homeowner with Utica service question

You say everything was working ok and almost up to steady state when this problem happened. Sound more like an oil line restriction to me. As the unit runs with a clogged one pipe oil line, it slowly builds vacuum. Eventually, at low pressure, the oil begins to vaporize causing the pump's piston to slam shut. Once this happens the pressure in the pump rises and it relights. As this cycle continues the shut down due to high vacuum/low pressure will eventually starve the pump and the unit will shut down on safety. This is also causing soot to develop.

options

@ September 15, 2013 11:52 AM in Time Meter for Riello F5 Burner

You could wire directly to the line voltage of the burner with a line voltage time keeper. The only problem would be the 20 second pre-purge. If you could also hook up a device that counted the cycles you could just do the math to eliminate the extra 20 seconds per cycle. Or you could just live with the 20 second difference. 1 hour is 3600 seconds, so it would take 1200 cycles to be off by an hour.

Just an idea...

@ September 8, 2013 8:14 AM in Time Meter for Riello F5 Burner

Download a PDF of the burner model you have. Looking at the schematic of the f3 model I see three wires connecting to the coil: 1,2 and 8. You might try running the proper guage wire to these three terminals, starting the burner and see which two wires give you voltage when the coil energizes. Note the voltage and terminals, shut down and remove tempo wires and then find a device that runs at that voltage that doesn't draw more amps that the burner is rated for.

Thanks

@ September 2, 2013 8:35 AM in copper fill and vent pipes

For the info.

Copper piping for oil fill

@ August 31, 2013 6:26 PM in Copper piping for oil fill

Are you allowed to use copper piping for your fill and vent pipe in Shirley, town of Brookhaven, N.Y.?

I am located

@ August 30, 2013 10:07 PM in copper fill and vent pipes

On long island in Suffolk county.

copper fill and vent pipes

@ August 29, 2013 5:16 PM in copper fill and vent pipes

I was just on a job, new construction, and noticed they had installed the fill and vent oil line using copper. I know that every oil company I've ever worked for would not repair these pipes, you had to have the piping redone with black pipe if you had a problem. My question is are you allowed by code to use copper for this purpose? I'm not having any luck looking it up.

Thanks.

A new can of worms.

@ August 23, 2013 7:30 PM in NG Combi Boiler versus indirect tank and boiler setup

The minimum airflow of your home should be no less than .35 air changes per hour. At 70% of that number mechanical ventilation is reccomended. Below that threshold mechanical ventilation is required. I would have an energy audit conducted on your home before you continue. The federal government is paying energy raters $250 per audit so it is a free service in many areas. A blower door test is part of these audits. They will tell you how tight (and healthy) your home actually is. A house that does not allow enough fresh air will cause health problems down the line. Get an audit and be safe. The audit will also tell you your heat loss/gain, so it's a win-win deal.
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