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earl burnermann

earl burnermann

Joined on December 12, 2010

Last Post on August 8, 2014

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Not sure about installing blanket

@ October 29, 2013 10:27 AM in Riello/Buderus G115

Installed a biasi boiler in my home years ago. It came with a napkin size piece of blanket material. No matter what I did, I could not get the efficiency over 80%. A few years later I was cleaning a customer's biasi and noticed their boiler was missing the blanket. This boiler had no problem reaching over 85% and absolutely no sooting. Came home removed the piece of blanket and raised the SSE. Absolutely no sign of soot since I did this too. I'm wondering what it's going to look like inside this year after running on uls fuel starting last heating season

Clogged oil line

@ October 13, 2013 6:37 AM in Help for first time homeowner with Utica service question

You say everything was working ok and almost up to steady state when this problem happened. Sound more like an oil line restriction to me. As the unit runs with a clogged one pipe oil line, it slowly builds vacuum. Eventually, at low pressure, the oil begins to vaporize causing the pump's piston to slam shut. Once this happens the pressure in the pump rises and it relights. As this cycle continues the shut down due to high vacuum/low pressure will eventually starve the pump and the unit will shut down on safety. This is also causing soot to develop.


@ September 15, 2013 11:52 AM in Time Meter for Riello F5 Burner

You could wire directly to the line voltage of the burner with a line voltage time keeper. The only problem would be the 20 second pre-purge. If you could also hook up a device that counted the cycles you could just do the math to eliminate the extra 20 seconds per cycle. Or you could just live with the 20 second difference. 1 hour is 3600 seconds, so it would take 1200 cycles to be off by an hour.

Just an idea...

@ September 8, 2013 8:14 AM in Time Meter for Riello F5 Burner

Download a PDF of the burner model you have. Looking at the schematic of the f3 model I see three wires connecting to the coil: 1,2 and 8. You might try running the proper guage wire to these three terminals, starting the burner and see which two wires give you voltage when the coil energizes. Note the voltage and terminals, shut down and remove tempo wires and then find a device that runs at that voltage that doesn't draw more amps that the burner is rated for.


@ September 2, 2013 8:35 AM in copper fill and vent pipes

For the info.

Copper piping for oil fill

@ August 31, 2013 6:26 PM in Copper piping for oil fill

Are you allowed to use copper piping for your fill and vent pipe in Shirley, town of Brookhaven, N.Y.?

I am located

@ August 30, 2013 10:07 PM in copper fill and vent pipes

On long island in Suffolk county.

copper fill and vent pipes

@ August 29, 2013 5:16 PM in copper fill and vent pipes

I was just on a job, new construction, and noticed they had installed the fill and vent oil line using copper. I know that every oil company I've ever worked for would not repair these pipes, you had to have the piping redone with black pipe if you had a problem. My question is are you allowed by code to use copper for this purpose? I'm not having any luck looking it up.


A new can of worms.

@ August 23, 2013 7:30 PM in NG Combi Boiler versus indirect tank and boiler setup

The minimum airflow of your home should be no less than .35 air changes per hour. At 70% of that number mechanical ventilation is reccomended. Below that threshold mechanical ventilation is required. I would have an energy audit conducted on your home before you continue. The federal government is paying energy raters $250 per audit so it is a free service in many areas. A blower door test is part of these audits. They will tell you how tight (and healthy) your home actually is. A house that does not allow enough fresh air will cause health problems down the line. Get an audit and be safe. The audit will also tell you your heat loss/gain, so it's a win-win deal.


@ July 23, 2013 1:27 PM in r22 drop in

It is more important to fix the leaks when converting to the drop in refrigerants. Like 410a, they leak their blend at different rates and will loose their efectiveness. Just converted my wife's parents unit to mo99 due to the cost difference. Fixed the leaks and changed out the dryers and shrader cores. At that time r22 cost over $500 a jug while I could get the mo99 for about $150 per jug.


@ July 23, 2013 1:25 PM in r22 drop in

It is more important to fix the leaks when converting to the drop in refrigerants. Like 410a, they leak their blend at different rates and will loose their efectiveness. Just converted my wife's parents unit to mo99 due to the cost difference. Fixed the leaks and changed out the dryers and shrader cores. At that time r22 cost over $500 a jug while I could get the mo99 for about $150 per jug.

A/C Classes

@ June 22, 2013 4:49 PM in A/C classes

I don't know what area you are from but here are some links for schools on Long Island. First, a link to western Suffolk's BOCES at Wilson Tech

Next, a link to Eastern Suffolk BOCES:

Here is a link to Bradford Hall. One is located in Bohemia NY. The only problem with this site is that they won't give you any info without giving them your personal information:

Here is a link to Suffolk County Community College's certificate program:
And here is a link to Suffolk's Associates

conversion formula

@ June 9, 2013 6:44 AM in possible gas conversion and selling equipment

Here is a way to figure out how much you will save on heating your home with gas:
gallons of oil consumed X 1.4 X price per therm of natural gas
price of oil consumed - result of above
The btu rating of oil is rounded to 140,000 for this formula. A therm of gas is 100,000 btus

I wonder

@ May 28, 2013 5:19 PM in Repco boilers

how those builder special boilers would do today. Back when those Repco's where burning though it seemed to be common practice by too many mechanics to keep down-firing them until there was back pressure on them with the smallest nozzles. These boilers where quite easy to clean. If the back pressure could have been avoided they may not have failed at the rate they did.

Triple pass boilers

@ May 9, 2013 5:03 PM in Opinions Wanted!!

are the way to go. The Buderus and Baisi are both triple pass systems. I have a baisi B10-4 system in my home and it appears that it would be a very good match for your home if your btu rating is correct. The Basi B10-4 has an output of 84,000 btu/hr and is over 86% efficient. I make my hot water with a phase III indirect. This year I purchased 400 gallons for the year for a  1000 square foot, three bedroom ranch on Long Island. I keep the temp at 70 degrees in the winter.

Service quality and knowlege

@ April 20, 2013 8:43 AM in Calling Eugene

Hi David,

I’m one of Eugene’s students and am in my last semester. Last week Eugene asked the class how many where working now, and it looked like just about the entire class had been hired by those they where interning with. So there aren’t a whole bunch of SCCC students looking for a job after school.

One problem I came across was that some employers are using methods that would make you shiver. After my first semester, and very green, I was hired by one of the local companies. What was the ambient temperature? NYC temp minus ten degrees. How do you properly charge a system? By using default high and low pressures as per the company. Any concern about subcooling or superheat? What’s that?
The first company I worked for just dumped refrigerant from units. When I asked them for a recovery machine to protect my EPA standing I was told they were working on it. They came to a solution the next week. I was laid off.

Right now I’m working for an employer that has a senior refrigeration tech that uses a lot of old school techniques. The difference here is that when I voice my opinion and concerns they listen and take action.

So the problems I see in my limited time working in HVAC are that there are just not enough qualified techs coming into the trade. My first AC class had well over twenty students but my last class has barely ten left. The second problem is that those not being properly trained in the theory of HVAC are being shown some terrible practices. The last problem is when someone tries to correct these practices they loose their value to their employer.

++ for tigerloops

@ April 8, 2013 1:20 PM in warminMaine

I agree with you icesailor when you support the use of tigerloops. Back in the day they where considered a bandaid fix. But not any more. Two pipe systems never run clean due to the increased vac created by them. Tigerloops solve that problem. I also like the fact that the tigerloop acts as a small holding tank for the oil thereby allowing it to heat up a bit before entering the pump. This is a big advantage for those using outside tanks.

You bring up another good point about the removal of the return line. A tigerloop won't solve a break in the feed oil line. But imagine the mess if the return line breaks outside! Holy Cow! I just filled up my tank and I need another delivery already. A pretty expensive cleanup that can be avoided by installing a tigerloop.

Not a fan of check valves

@ April 8, 2013 1:15 PM in warminMaine

I have to say that I have seen tons of check valves on oil lines to fix a problem that was eventually fixed by removing the check valves and replacing or fixing the suction leak in the oil line. Check valves will assure the oil travels in the direction that is required, but it will not fix a suction leak.

How about...

@ April 7, 2013 1:16 PM in Ground water temp for On-demand hotwater in Alaska

Installing the largest electric water heat that will fit in your conditioned space. Do not hook it up. Remove the insulation from the new electric water heater and have this unit feed your cold water feed. Let the conditioned space heat the tank.

Just a guess

@ April 7, 2013 1:11 PM in warminMaine

Not knowing anything more than that you have an overhead oil line, I would guess that you may have air in your oil line.


@ April 5, 2013 12:12 PM in Question on sizing flat plate heat exchangers

For the info!

Question on sizing flat plate heat exchangers

@ April 4, 2013 8:20 PM in Question on sizing flat plate heat exchangers

So I am designing a system for my home as a project for the system design class I am attending. My home is heated by a oil fired hot water boiler and baseboard. I could just design the ac side for this class but I’m thinking of also including a hot water coil which would eliminate the baseboard. I completed the Manual J for my home and it states that my heat loss is 65,400 Btu/hr.

My plan is to use a flat plate heat exchanger, the type of heat exchanger that the system 2000 uses to make domestic hot water using a plain electric water storage tank,  to supply a 50/50 premix of glycol to the coil. My problem is that I am having trouble finding the Btu ratings of these devices. Also, the specific heat of glycol is .85. So I figure the flat coil would have to be rated at 75,000 btu/hr right?


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