Joined on December 12, 2010
Last Post on April 18, 2014
@ December 16, 2012 4:16 PM in Beckett AFG2 line oil lines are a thing of the past and will soon be the only reason for finding soot in a boiler now that NYS is burning low sulfur oil. With the better oil and a system set up using combustion tools, oil should burn as clean as gas.
But 2 pipe systems will continue to soot. This is because of the higher pump vac needed to pull the maximum gph of the pump. Another problem is that vac leaks in the supply line will not knock the burner off. So you will have fluctuating pump pressures and soot.
I would vac test the supply line. If there are no vac leaks then change to 1 pipe. If there are vac leaks then repair those leaks and 1 pipe. If you insist on having the pump 2 piped then have it 2 piped to a tiger loop. This will keep the vac down to just what is required to supply the gph of the nozzle. If you still have vac leaks in your line the tigerloop will not cover this problem up though.
@ December 8, 2012 4:38 AM in gas conversion, tankless coil not performingLooks like a real nice job. The money you save this winter should more than pay for a new water heater this spring. From there on you will just continue to save money and make the system more desirable when you do sell.
@ November 14, 2012 10:20 AM in Heat takes a long time to reach some radiators in a hot water systemYou say you have one cast iron radiator on each floor. What type of radiators are heating the rest of the house? What is the pressure on the boiler?
@ November 12, 2012 5:59 PM in LO limit not working?An L8041B is a dual aquastat. If you have it set at 180 and the low at 130 the boiler will maintain 180 degrees and the circulator will stop at 130 degrees. I would reccomend setting them at 180, 160 or 160, 140.
A triple acting thermostat would work the way you expect this one to work. It would maintain temperature at the lower setting until there was a call for heat from the thermostat.
@ October 29, 2012 4:00 PM in crown oil fired boiler to propane?Right now I'm in the process of googling corn kernel burners. Looks like the way to go ;-)
@ October 29, 2012 3:54 PM in Igniter questionFirst, they are much lighter, but you know that already. They consume less electricity. And when they fail, they fail. Although this may not sound good, it really is. Cuts down on missing a bad transformer on a not automatic call. As already mentioned, you do not want to maintain the spark through the whole cycle.
@ August 11, 2012 7:43 PM in Why use different nozzle?Worked for a company that only used w nozzles.
@ August 11, 2012 5:49 AM in Back to workI'm attending Suffolk County Community College. Have two semesters to go.
@ August 10, 2012 12:29 PM in Back to workI've been out of work for a while. But just answered an ad for a refrigeration tech at one of the local colleges. Interviewed at 8 am this morning and got a call around 10 am that I got the job. Looking forward to putting what I've been learning in the HVAC program at Suffolk to work!
@ July 31, 2012 4:05 PM in Oil burner sizeYou really should have a heat loss calculation done to decide on what size boiler you need. It's an extra expense that saves you money every day. The indirect is a great idea though. Can really reduce your standby loss. Especially if you have an on-demand heating system.
@ July 25, 2012 4:08 PM in Boiler wont fire unless..that is causing the zone valve not to open on temperature drop.
@ July 25, 2012 4:05 PM in Whining noise from burner after oil line replacedOr is it quiet and builds over time. If it builds over time, even a short time, it is a restriction causing the vacuum to rise inside the pump. Next comes sputter, sputter then silence when the primary control fails.
@ June 8, 2012 2:55 PM in digital vacuum gauge and nitrogen regulatorI'm looking to buy a digital vacuum gauge. Since I'm using mostly Fieldpiece equipment I was thinking of getting the Fieldpiece AVG2 Vacuum Gauge Accessory Head. Does anyone here use this attachment? If so, how is it working out for you.
One other question. Does it really matter how much I spend on a nitrogen regulator? I see them for sale from $47.00 to over $100.00.
@ February 11, 2012 10:35 AM in Beckett Burner Issues....at the end of my rope!!!I have two filters on my system. At the tank I have the old style replaceable element type and then I have a garber spin on with gauge at the burner. Most people have the cheaper one. Easy way to check is to see if your getting a flow of oil. The gauge is nice to have but not everyone has one.
@ February 11, 2012 10:18 AM in Beckett Burner Issues....at the end of my rope!!!I just skimmed this thread but so far I don't think I've seen any talk about the suction line. As the oil line clogs, the unit will begin to go off on safety. Each time it will start right up when you press the reset. As time goes by ,and the clog gets worse, It will happen more and more. Sooner or later pushing the reset will no longer work. If it's an inside tank the take out the filter and check your oil flow. I've seen plenty of jobs with clean filters but the oil line to the tank is clogged solid. I use a push pull pump to solve this problem while others may prefer to use a co2 gun to blow the line back.
@ February 11, 2012 10:02 AM in What does the I in ohms law literally represent?Ohms law is simple until you get to the variables. Wouldn't V = A x R make more sense. But the guy that figures it out gets to name the variables. So far R is easy right? It's resistance. And the E must represent electromotive force. That's how I remember it any way. So now that I have two values down I can figure out what the other one is. Which is nice because that's how ohms law works. But I'd just like to know what word Mr. Ohms was talking about when he used the letter I for current, or easier for me to remember, amperage.
@ January 1, 2012 10:02 PM in Buderus vs Biasi vs Slant Fin Eutectic EC-10... Quiet?Biasi B-10 four section boiler with a riello burner and phase III indirect about six years ago and I love it. Very little service. Only changed the nozzle once (out of habit). And am burning about 500 gallons a year in a 3 bedroom ranch.
@ November 20, 2011 1:33 PM in Oil Problem ?Sounds like a restriction in the oil line. easiest way to find out is to install a vac gauge and run it. If you bleed the pump during this test it will speed up the symtoms. A high reading on the gauge indicates a clog. A low or bouncing vac gauge reading (with lots of foam coming from the bleader) indicates a vac leak. I use a gauge that screws into the filter canister. Makes checking the vac easy. You should also check your pump pressure. I use a beckett nozzle bulkhead fitting with a 1/8" pressure gauge screwed into it. Just attach it to the nozzle line and start the unit. You should get 100 psi on the gauge. If you get 140 psi and have a .85 nozzle it is delivering 1.00 an hour. If you installed a 1.00 nozzle and didn't check the pump pressure you may be delivering 1.20 gph or more per hour. If your pump pressure is below 100 psi adust it to 100 or what the manufacturer reccomends. Let it run until it goes into safety. Your pump pressure should not drop to 0. Some say it should drop to 50 or 80. The less it drops the better the pump's cut off. And btw, You aslo now know that the safety works. Thats a good thing.
@ November 20, 2011 1:19 PM in Heat not reponding to thermostatsIf you jump out the low voltage wires that are used to turn on the circulator in the switching relay control, and it works then you have a problem with either your wiring or your thermostat. If the circ comes on when you jump out the thermostat wires in the switching relay then it's time to try the thermostat. Jump out the w and r wires at your themostat. If the circ comes on it's a problem with the thermostat. Is the thermostat set to heat? or is it set to off. Has to be set to heat if the thermostat is a heating cooling thermostat. If the circ does not come on when you jump out the w and r wires at the thermostat you have a problem with your thermostat wires.
@ November 3, 2011 3:12 PM in Heat Loss CalculationsHi,
I'm doing a heat loss calculation for my heating class. I've been given a graph of the house and have figured out the room sizes and all the heat loss calculations using Slant Fin Heat Loss Express. One problem I'm having with the program is that it says it needs more data for the hallway. I did input the length and width of the room and the ceiling and floor data is the same through the whole house. The only thing different is that there are no doors, or windows in the hallway and it is in the middle of the house so it does not border any cold partitions and has no exposed walls. This isn't a big deal though since it only stops me from choosing a slant fin boiler for the project.
I would like to go with a Biasi B-10 boiler for the project. I would include a Riello burner and Phase III Smart Series indirect water heater. My problem is that the total heat loss for this home would be 48 MBH and the the smallest Baisi B-10 is 58 MBH. I'm thinking that the extra btus could be used for the 36 gallon indirect. I have this system in my home and was told, before installing it, that I didn't have to add any additional btus if I used a priority control for the water heat, which I did.
So what do you think? Would a Baisi 3 section be too big for this job? Or will this work out if I add the indirect without a priority control.