Joined on December 12, 2010
Last Post on August 8, 2014
@ July 25, 2012 4:05 PM in Whining noise from burner after oil line replacedOr is it quiet and builds over time. If it builds over time, even a short time, it is a restriction causing the vacuum to rise inside the pump. Next comes sputter, sputter then silence when the primary control fails.
@ June 8, 2012 2:55 PM in digital vacuum gauge and nitrogen regulatorI'm looking to buy a digital vacuum gauge. Since I'm using mostly Fieldpiece equipment I was thinking of getting the Fieldpiece AVG2 Vacuum Gauge Accessory Head. Does anyone here use this attachment? If so, how is it working out for you.
One other question. Does it really matter how much I spend on a nitrogen regulator? I see them for sale from $47.00 to over $100.00.
@ February 11, 2012 10:35 AM in Beckett Burner Issues....at the end of my rope!!!I have two filters on my system. At the tank I have the old style replaceable element type and then I have a garber spin on with gauge at the burner. Most people have the cheaper one. Easy way to check is to see if your getting a flow of oil. The gauge is nice to have but not everyone has one.
@ February 11, 2012 10:18 AM in Beckett Burner Issues....at the end of my rope!!!I just skimmed this thread but so far I don't think I've seen any talk about the suction line. As the oil line clogs, the unit will begin to go off on safety. Each time it will start right up when you press the reset. As time goes by ,and the clog gets worse, It will happen more and more. Sooner or later pushing the reset will no longer work. If it's an inside tank the take out the filter and check your oil flow. I've seen plenty of jobs with clean filters but the oil line to the tank is clogged solid. I use a push pull pump to solve this problem while others may prefer to use a co2 gun to blow the line back.
@ February 11, 2012 10:02 AM in What does the I in ohms law literally represent?Ohms law is simple until you get to the variables. Wouldn't V = A x R make more sense. But the guy that figures it out gets to name the variables. So far R is easy right? It's resistance. And the E must represent electromotive force. That's how I remember it any way. So now that I have two values down I can figure out what the other one is. Which is nice because that's how ohms law works. But I'd just like to know what word Mr. Ohms was talking about when he used the letter I for current, or easier for me to remember, amperage.
@ January 1, 2012 10:02 PM in Buderus vs Biasi vs Slant Fin Eutectic EC-10... Quiet?Biasi B-10 four section boiler with a riello burner and phase III indirect about six years ago and I love it. Very little service. Only changed the nozzle once (out of habit). And am burning about 500 gallons a year in a 3 bedroom ranch.
@ November 20, 2011 1:33 PM in Oil Problem ?Sounds like a restriction in the oil line. easiest way to find out is to install a vac gauge and run it. If you bleed the pump during this test it will speed up the symtoms. A high reading on the gauge indicates a clog. A low or bouncing vac gauge reading (with lots of foam coming from the bleader) indicates a vac leak. I use a gauge that screws into the filter canister. Makes checking the vac easy. You should also check your pump pressure. I use a beckett nozzle bulkhead fitting with a 1/8" pressure gauge screwed into it. Just attach it to the nozzle line and start the unit. You should get 100 psi on the gauge. If you get 140 psi and have a .85 nozzle it is delivering 1.00 an hour. If you installed a 1.00 nozzle and didn't check the pump pressure you may be delivering 1.20 gph or more per hour. If your pump pressure is below 100 psi adust it to 100 or what the manufacturer reccomends. Let it run until it goes into safety. Your pump pressure should not drop to 0. Some say it should drop to 50 or 80. The less it drops the better the pump's cut off. And btw, You aslo now know that the safety works. Thats a good thing.
@ November 20, 2011 1:19 PM in Heat not reponding to thermostatsIf you jump out the low voltage wires that are used to turn on the circulator in the switching relay control, and it works then you have a problem with either your wiring or your thermostat. If the circ comes on when you jump out the thermostat wires in the switching relay then it's time to try the thermostat. Jump out the w and r wires at your themostat. If the circ comes on it's a problem with the thermostat. Is the thermostat set to heat? or is it set to off. Has to be set to heat if the thermostat is a heating cooling thermostat. If the circ does not come on when you jump out the w and r wires at the thermostat you have a problem with your thermostat wires.
@ November 3, 2011 3:12 PM in Heat Loss CalculationsHi,
I'm doing a heat loss calculation for my heating class. I've been given a graph of the house and have figured out the room sizes and all the heat loss calculations using Slant Fin Heat Loss Express. One problem I'm having with the program is that it says it needs more data for the hallway. I did input the length and width of the room and the ceiling and floor data is the same through the whole house. The only thing different is that there are no doors, or windows in the hallway and it is in the middle of the house so it does not border any cold partitions and has no exposed walls. This isn't a big deal though since it only stops me from choosing a slant fin boiler for the project.
I would like to go with a Biasi B-10 boiler for the project. I would include a Riello burner and Phase III Smart Series indirect water heater. My problem is that the total heat loss for this home would be 48 MBH and the the smallest Baisi B-10 is 58 MBH. I'm thinking that the extra btus could be used for the 36 gallon indirect. I have this system in my home and was told, before installing it, that I didn't have to add any additional btus if I used a priority control for the water heat, which I did.
So what do you think? Would a Baisi 3 section be too big for this job? Or will this work out if I add the indirect without a priority control.
@ August 28, 2011 10:48 AM in riello not firingThe times I've had smoke calls on riello burners where the air was open all the way almost always are from the air tube cover not being completely closed. I find that whoever re-installed it had trouble getting it completely tight. Sometimes the nozzle line has been bent and has to be pushed back into place. You may find that the one or two screws that connect this part to the housing appear to be in all the way but if you look at where the cover connects to the housing you may find it "V"s open as you look towards the blast tube side of the cabinet.