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vaporvac

vaporvac

Joined on December 20, 2010

Last Post on March 24, 2014

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did not work...

@ March 24, 2014 7:20 PM in Plumbing Forum?

I'm sure it's totally user error and lack of experience, but blowing down the lines with the air compressor didn't work. It did dislodge some rust,but the hot on the sink and shower is still a trickle.Should I still try with a hanger as I only used the compressor?
I'm checking behind an access panel to see if there are any shut-off valves that I didn't know about, but am not holdin gout much hope. I'll report back on any change, but for now it's a fail. :(

I hope I didn't miss something in the instructions. thanks for taking the time to try to help. I'm still open to questions and advice.

Edit post

@ March 21, 2014 7:46 PM in Vaporstat sticking / biasing after vacuum

The easiest way to stop people from commenting on the water hammer is to delete the reference in your first post.
My original Vsat is a mercury one...very accurate., but delicate as are the new ones. There are posts here that deal with fixing them if you search. I'll do that if I have time later. I bought a "new" one from a fellow Wallie who kindly calibrated it for me as I found that to be the easiest route for my second Vstat. I now have an old and new one on my new twinned system with the old vacuum gauge that are hard to come by. I would love to have installed the water column, but my system took enough time to get running as it was and I really just needed mine for control. Time will tell if the "new" one works well enough.

I think the best rule on this Wall is to be nice. People really try to give the best advice and sometimes it's difficult to convey what one really means so that everyone understands. My posts go off topic all the time and I gently try to bring it back to the original question. I'm just happy that anyone is taking their time to help at all and that it generates interest and discussion.

Did that...

@ March 15, 2014 10:14 PM in Easy way to clean pigtail / siphon

Thanks  to suggestion here, I did put them on just that way and also on the kpressure relief valve. Since my Vstats are on my header they did need a pigtai, but I used them anyway! Pigtails rock, but the little ones are really difficult to find.

The higher the better...

@ March 14, 2014 6:41 PM in wet steam /vent spitting

Just another homeowner, but my understanding is the higher the better. This is working out great on my recent install. The price of straight pipe isn't much if you have the head room. I only increased the header part to give the steam and water more space to separate. Don't go down in size on the equalizer until you go vertical.
You might try Karen at simplyplumbing.com for the 1-3lb. gauge.
Sorry for your loss.
Colleen

Just a homeowner...

@ March 14, 2014 6:33 PM in Sight glass "empties" when boiler is firing

Im just a homeowner and even I managed to pipe my boiler better than this!!! What is the problem reading the instruction manual? Probably the manufacturer won't warranty it with this piping so perhaps you could use that as ammunition. i would start off nice and not put their back up against the wall. Others have posted with similar problems and were able to have the installer repipe correctly in steel. The drop header is usually in the manual as a "best" install practice so you might have to pay a bit extra to get that done and I WOULD pay extra. My install has them and it's working amazingly well.
I would post any plans here first to make sure it's going to be done correctly. (Unless Thatcher does it. We're all learning from his installs).
Colleen

I apologize...

@ March 14, 2014 6:14 PM in Plumbing Forum?

I'm sorry for how confusing this thread has become with all the different topics covered. The gaskets on the shower were fixed so it doesn't drip tand here isn't any crossover anymore. Mine doesn't have cartridges as it's before they had them...100yrs old. Here are two pdfs for it that Speakman sent me. They were made for a really long time.
http://www.heatinghelp.com/files/posts/18503/S-2230-MIXOMETER.pdf
http://www.heatinghelp.com/files/posts/18504/S-2230%20Mixometer%20Operation.pdf
I'll try the sink first because cleaning it might help out the shower and it's easier since there are independent shut-off valves. thank you for taking the time to help.

LWCO type?

@ March 14, 2014 5:46 PM in Burnham Independence Boiler sight glass is full

I might also add, that unless you have a probe-type LWCO you should be blowing it down at least everyother week if not every week. If not, it's a no wonder it's clogged.
Another homeowner...

Thank you! Will try...

@ March 13, 2014 11:18 PM in Plumbing Forum?

I'll give this a try when I have some help next week and report back. Thank you!  I do have shut-offs under the sink and bath and toilet, just not to the shower or to the entire bathroom in the basement for the hot. I'm digesting these instructions and hopefully it will work...that would be much better that ripping up the ceiling below. How would you suggest I go about the shower or do you think fixing the lav will accomplish that?
 I think you're correct about the HW to the toilet. That was wild!

Baffled...

@ March 13, 2014 6:30 PM in Plumbing Forum?

We're basically baffled by it. The one odd thing, thinking about it, is that the toilet water got really hot before fixing the shower gaskets, but the shower and sink HW is just a trickle.
I jwould like to eliminate any easy solutions before decided it's clogged lines.

Continuation of problem...

@ March 13, 2014 3:15 PM in Plumbing Forum?

thanks icesailor,
This is actually a continuation of the same post, just an update on what got fixed and what's still not working. I posted as a reply because i hadn't seen the comment regarding loflo shower heads.
This post started as a question on my 100yr old Speakman shower Mixometer t and morphed into the addition of the Plumbing Forum to The Wall. Then a few others jumped into the Speakman fray with newer models. If you can bear it, skim through my post on the peior problems and their resolution.

The lack of hot water (other than a trickle) is now the issue. Thanks in advance for any insight you may have.

Hadn't read this....hmmmm

@ March 12, 2014 7:47 PM in Plumbing Forum?

So I do have a low flow and wonder if this contributed to the problem.
Update:

Well the bath is fixed (Turn-odd in wrong direction), the toilet is no longer hot and the hot water is no longer heating the whole assembly...BUT the HW flow to both sink AND shower is VERY weak. Really not suitable for a shower. The HW pressure in the separate tub is great as is the cold water throughout the entire bathroom. There is no main shut-off to the hot water for this bathroom, but I don't think that's the problem as the bath get hot just fine. I believe the line head from the bath to the sink and shower, but it's hard to see in the access area.

What could be causing this very low pressure? These pipes are galvanized, I think. Could it just be debris and how could I trouble shoot this short of ripping out the plaster ceiling?
Thanks for any help. It would be wonderful to use this bathroom m again.

for Gas?

@ March 12, 2014 7:35 PM in A challenge...

I know this question was for oil, but it seems the pickings are slim for gas as well. The modulating burners were very expensive and I only found one or two multi-stage burners compatible with the SF Tr50s, but could never get info or price. What do the modcons use?

Riello is currently working on a nozzle that would allow hlh burn on its g400 gas conversion burner. Hopefully next year. They indicated, it would be possible to swap out my current nozzle for the new one, which is one of the reasons I went for the Riello. Plus, the price they ballparked didn't seem that much for the gain. ( This was tech support that I was talking with.)

I don't understand the huge price differential between single-stage and multi-staged firing. as it's only the nozzle.
I'd be happy to be a guinea pig for a small multistage gas nozzle. :)

toggle switch?

@ March 12, 2014 7:03 PM in Stage-fired boiler controls?

Thanks for your reply. So do you think a toggle switch would work that's similar to what Jamie suggest sin my post: http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/147639/Which-Vaporstat-for-stage-firind-boilers

" I would also be inclined to wire the assembly with a switch (four pole double throw) so that either vapourstat could control either boiler; that way you could change which boiler was lead and which was lag from time to time. Which would probably be overkill."

This way I could manually change which is the lead/lag boiler depending on general weather conditions. ie. use higher burn rate in colder weather? Would this be something to just add to the system suggested by Jstar in the above post and if so, how would it be wired, specifically. OR, is there some other way to do this automatically?

Cool!

@ March 9, 2014 2:49 PM in Midco LNB-250 modulating burner firing pics

That's the coolest thing I've seen all day. How are the numbers looking since your last update?c

How to proceed?

@ March 8, 2014 5:36 PM in Stage-fired boiler controls?

This is a repeat of my comments left on The Epic Trane Journey post, but I thought others might benefit from the specifics and would probably not read that post in its entirety.
The two twinned boilers have differing firing rates of 200Kbtu and 230Kbtu respectively.Currently (until Tstat wire replaced), I'm manually controlling the boiler by turning them on and off either at the switch or at the boilers.

The pressure is the most interesting thing. From a big set-back on a VERY cold day, I get 1 - 11/2lb on the 230btu boiler and a couple of ounces on the 200btu boiler. These are readings from the factory 0-30 guages, but they are always the same under similar conditions. On warmer days, there's no pressure on the 200btu boiler and maybe 1/2lb. on the 230 one. I still get between 5-7 " vacuum regularly with all the leaks in my system.

I usually shut down one of the boilers once steam hits the rads. Even on VERY cold days, the larger burner alone will continue to raise the temp with a negligible pressure, while the smaller burner will maintain temp at 0 lb. The latter actually operates in a 2" vacuum if the weather is in the 30s!!!! while still raising the indoor temp. It really highlights how useful ODR would be in maintaining a good indoor temp as that seems to be what's driving the pressures.

Interestingly, One time I thought I'd turned them both on when it was coldish to bring the house temp up. It took a bit longer than usual, but I realized that was because I was only heating with the 230Kbtu boiler. I was surprised it would heat the house at all, (although I don't think that's the most efficient way to heat long-term).

So now the question is how the heck to regulate this thing? It would be great to let it go into the vacuum to distribute the heat and maintain a steady temp. Currently the rads get hot all the way across and stay warm for a couple of hours when in vacuum. On warmer days, only the smaller burner would be needed to main temp.

I have ta 2-stage Honeywell wireless Tstat and two Vsats with a 1-5lb gauge, but am now wondering how to set that up to maximize the two differing burn rates as well as the vacuum. Can they be used with an ODR and how would that be accomplished?
Any and all thoughts are welcomed and thanked for in advance.
Colleen

Observations thus far...

@ March 8, 2014 5:04 PM in An Epic Tale: I hear the Trane a comin'!

Mdmlansing hasn't posted in a while. Hopefully, he's working on his experiments for controls. :)

I'm posting the larger question of controlling this system at my prior post:
http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/147642/Stage-fired-boiler-controls

However, I thought Id write some observations now that it's been running (albeit without a Tstat) for about a month now.
I've done a couple of skims in addition to those Mr Egil did, but it needs more. Some of the piping is leaking a tiny bit. :( Will fix that when the weather breaks a bit more. I think it was the result of the first pipe threader being bad as those are the only joints with problems.
It's not loud really, Actually, not much louder than my old atmospheric. It's just a different sound that can only be heard due to the chimney.
It heats from 7-8deg setbacks really quickly with both boilers. Why do I have a set-back? Because I don't want to run up and down the stairs all night and sometimes just leave in the morning with it still off.
I still have to have the Tstat wire renewed and hooked up. Then do the stage-firing with the Vstats.

The pressure is the most interesting thing. From a big set-back on a VERY cold day, I get 1 - 11/2lb on the 230btu boiler and a couple of ounces on the 200btu boiler. These are is still the the factory 0-30 guages, but they are always the same under similar conditions. On warmer days, there no pressure on the 200btu and maybe 1/2lb. on the 230 one. I still get between 5-7 " vacuum regularly even with all the leaks in my system.

I usually shut down one of the boilers once steam hits the rads. Even on VERY cold days, the larger burner will continue to raise the temp with a negligible pressure. However, on cold days the smaller burner will maintain temp at 0 lb, but will actually operate in a 2" vacuum if the weather is in the 30s!!!! And it will also raise the temp and the higher outdoor temps.It really highlights how useful ODR would be in maintaining a good indoor temp as that seems to be what's driving the pressures.

Interestingly, One time I thought I'd turned them both on when it was coldish to bring the house temp up. It took a bit longer than usual, but I realized that was because i was only heating with the 230 boiler. I was surprised it would heat the house at all, (although I don't think that's the most efficient way to heat long-term).

So now the question is how the heck to regulate this thing? It would be great to let it go into the vacuum to distribute the heat and maintain a steady temp. Currently the rads get hot all the way across and stay warm for a couple of hours when in vacuum. On warmer days, only the smaller burner would be needed to main temp.

I have ta 2-stage Honeywell wireless Tstat and two Vsats with a 1-5lb gauge, but am now wondering how to set that up to maximize the two differing burn rates as well as the vacuum. Can they be used with an ODR and how would that be accomplished? Btw, my combined burn rate of 430Kbtu almost perfectly matches my current radiation. It's just a bit over and I have plenty of room if I want to bring some of the basement rads back on line, since it's pretty cold down there now!

It's been great having heat, but more fun to watch this system everyone here helped design, working (almost) as planned.
Please read and comment on the post http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/147642/Stage-fired-boiler-controls

Thanks in advance for any comments and/or advice.
Colleen

P.S. Anyone have any thoughts on my venting as mentioned above?

simplyplumbing.com

@ March 8, 2014 4:22 PM in burnham mega steam

I believe some on The Wall have purchased their Megasteams from Karen at simplyplumbing.com. Call and ask even if it isn't listed on their website. I got a tremendous price and service on my Slantfin Intrepids and Riello burners from them as well.

Skim the boiler...

@ March 7, 2014 3:33 PM in Steam boiler banging, hissing and water noise

It might be that flushing the boiler won't get everything out of the system. Try a slow skim and probably more than once. Search Skimming on THE Wall for instructions.

Here's an example for choosing a boiler:

@ March 6, 2014 1:40 PM in HELP with new steam boiler

I think the confusion stems from the difference between how much EDR one's system needs to take into account and what size boiler to buy. The boiler rating already includes this in their sizing, although they don't state this..
I posted an example on how I chose my boiler which some found useful:


500edr = 500sq ft of steam
500edr (without spick-up factor) = the boiler rated at 500sq ft. The boiler manufacturer has included it, but it isn't written. So really their edr is 500 plu30%, but they don't write that in because it's confusing. Just compare the edr to sqare feet of steam and you'll be fine.
ie. My combined edr is 1460 WITHOUT any pick-up factor and my pipes are insulated. I wanted two Slantfin boilers so I needed 730edr each. This is how we chose them:
http://www.slantfin.com/images/stories/Product-Literature/catalogsheet_intrepid_tr_10.pdf
Looking at the chart you can see that the TR50 is the closest with 767sq ft. ,so that's what we went with. That's it. There's nothing else to do. That boiler is able to account for the piping. End of story. (Although it IS confusing!)

I hope this helps.
P.S. i might also add that I can actually heat my house with only one boiler once the pipes are heated. This points out the total waste of oversizing and the beauty of an adjustable burner rate. If you're going for an atmospheric, many burners have a hi-lo--hi setting, but are often only set for one rate. I believe there's more flexibility with oil-burners.

Pics/

@ March 2, 2014 6:56 PM in Thermometer Heating Survey in my Coop Buildings

Perhaps they could send you pics as well TO MAKE SURE THEY'RE IDENTIFYING THEM CORRECTLY. Sorry for the caps!

Unvented...yes.

@ February 28, 2014 2:27 PM in Gas fire

There are unvented gas fireplaces that require no venting. They are different from the vented gas log set-ups and aren't allowed in all locals. Just google 'Unvented gas logs or fireplace insert". I had a friend put one in his log since his insurance wouldn't cover a wood-fired one. They didn't seem to mind it unvented, but that's in KY.

charlie

@ February 28, 2014 2:13 PM in Continuing water hammer issues

charlie from Wmass may service your area. he's one of the best .
http://www.heatinghelp.com/professional/221/Charles-Garrity-and-Son-Plumbing-and-Heating
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