Joined on December 20, 2010
Last Post on May 19, 2013
@ May 19, 2013 7:49 PM in Plumbing Forum?Hey there. I sent you an email with the info on Friday, and found I had downloaded this prior. It wasn't useful for the Mixometer, but I think it's what you're looking for. Scroll down to the Speakman section.
@ May 16, 2013 8:49 PM in Ideal Gas Boiler (American Radiator Company) conversionDo you have a competent steam person where you live? It seems a shame to ruin what sounds to be a lovely old ORIGINAL house by dropping the ceilings. Very spendy too I would imagine. I can't see where a new boiler and burner would come any where near the cost. I'm a homeowner like yourself; feel free to ask me about my personal experiences concerning price and what I ended up with in the end via email. the main problem isn't getting a good wet-based boiler with power burner, but getting someone to intall it. However, the instructions are clear so If your installing can't put in steam, I'd be a bit worried about radiant as well.
In a cold place like Montana I would think it's nice not to have to worry about your pipes bursting if you go away on vacation.
I'm also confused concerning the sq ft steam rating and the sq ft of your house.. Is that your measured edr or the rating of the current boiler? Is your total sq ftg @1500 or is that per floor ie. 4500sq ft. ? It's just that the boiler seems overized for a house that's 1500sp ft. do you have one-pipe or two?
Post some pics so the folks here can see what you've got. Colleen
@ May 16, 2013 4:57 PM in Plumbing Forum?Thanks, Steamhead. I want to give a BIG shout-out to Mr. Frank Salacki at Speakman. I called there and he sent me diagrams of my valve and instuctions for operation. How awesome is that?. They don't even sell them anymore, but he looked it up and emailed it lickety-split. Now I'm just hoping someone here can help explain to me, based on the drawings, what is wrong with mine and how I might fix it. Thanks for reading this.
Oh yes, he also said that all the Mixometers were basically the same. He only had instructions for the commander.
@ May 16, 2013 12:32 PM in Plumbing Forum?Thanks, Charlie. So if I'm understanding you correctly, this bleed-through may just be a worn washer perhaps caused by the high-pressure? I don't think I could put a pressure-reducer on this, but maybe the guy and my old hardware store (where I bought a replacement stem!) can advise. Would this make it go cold so quickly as well?
I figured they used the large pipe because the house is so large and they wanted to make sure there was pressure on all floors. But you're right...just because it is, doesn't mean it's good. Would a pressure reducer be something to put by the meter? This is really the only tap where there's ever been a problem. Off-topic...could the high pressure be affecting other things?
@ May 15, 2013 10:16 PM in 20+lb garbage disposal in large SS sink?FYI Chris. Dan H posted a plumbing section on this site. Nice sink BTW. Any thoughts on your faucet?
@ May 15, 2013 5:51 PM in Plumbing Forum?I think I may have over thought this thing and scared away any help! I believe prior to the ceramic cartridges and such that most mixer valves were similar to the one pictured. The only difference might be that this has a separate control for the pressure and the temperature. I've been reading that the valves can bleed, but would that explain why it gets cold. I've also not been able to find any info on FIXING the bleed-through.
Let's get this new section up and running!!! thanks in advance.
@ May 15, 2013 12:45 PM in Plumbing Forum?So, can I keep my question here or should I re-post to the new plumbing (yeah) section? Anyone have any ideas?
Also, why is the steam section suddenly at the bottom...it was so convenient at the top. Is this a seasonal change?
@ May 14, 2013 4:47 PM in What is the most effective heating system for Schools & Intermittent use buildings?I have the same question. I'm soon to be installing two stage-fired SFTR50s. Will the extra capacity enable me to have a higher set back? This past winter when I brought the house up from @45-50degs, it did so in a little more than an hour. I was impressed. My house maintains the heat fairly well, but I hate hot rooms at night, so I'd like to be able to let the temp fall until morning.
@ May 14, 2013 2:36 PM in Plumbing Forum?Sorry Bill. I didn't mean to be annoying. I just like to build the suspense. :) I wasn't exactly asking permission...I just didn't want to clutter up the board or go off-topic if it wasn't welcome. I posted that late last night and haven't been able to get back to it here at work. However, it's interesting that this has prompted some interest, as I have noticed a smattering of questions concerning plumbing recently.
So my question is this: I have a 1914 Speakman Mixometer mixing valve that feels warm to the touch at all times. It was leaking, but I was able to successfully replace the outer gasketing so it no longer leaks, but that didn't change it feeling hot. However, since replacing the gasket the temp starts warmish, but turns cool within 2-3 minutes. This is NOT the case with any other shower or bath where we have to wait for the hot water, but then have a lot of it. The water pressure also seems less. We generally have a 100psi coming in an 1" pipe, so pressure is never a problem.
The shower has an older waterpik head.
this is a separate tiled shower with NO access panel.
What could be causing these things (hot mixing valve, cool water, lower pressure) and are any of them related? Also, how would I fix them? I have an extra stem for the mixer valve if that would help. (On further thinking, I'm not sure the gasketing has anything to do with the cool water. I don't personally use this shower so it may have done this for a long while.)
Also, I will NOT CONSIDER replacing this as it is part of the original plumbing that has massaging "needles", a hand-held "shampooer" and separate temp and pressure control. Plus, it's really cool. Hope someone can help!!! Colleen
P.S. I'm a gal!
P.P.S. a plumbing section would be great since since so many of the pros are plumbers.
@ May 13, 2013 11:28 PM in Plumbing Forum?I have a non-heating related question so I'm hoping some of the plumbers on this site could suggest a good plumbing forum. I'm hoping for something similar to this site, but I realize that's a tall order. I have a 1914 house with its original plumbing fixtures and would like to have a go myself before calling anyone in. I've done most of it myself thus far, but I'm stumped.
@ May 12, 2013 3:36 PM in Need opinions on kitchen faucet brandsWhat luck! retrorenovation.com just posedt about NOS coverplates for these.
This is really one of the coolest faucets ever and it's still being made right here in the US of A. Spare parts available.
@ May 12, 2013 2:51 PM in Do you agree that heating systems with less use last longer?I think one reason your customer's boiler may have lasted is that he maintained it better. Without knowledge of the schedule the other three houses had for caring for their boilers it's hard to put it down to use alone.
I heated my house with both wood and steam for years and then moved entirely to steam. It didn't seem to affect the life of the boilers I've been through either way, but we didn't really know any proper maintenance besides a weekly blow-down.
@ May 12, 2013 2:30 PM in Need opinions on kitchen faucet brandsSo I have to ask: what's a basket?
Regarding the sink, does it have one hole or two? I'm obviously NOT a plumber, but I have a kitchen and have had the same faucets in multiple kitchens without one problem for over twenty years.I mean I've only had to do minor things to the same faucets. They are Grohe...German made. Don't know if they're keeping the same standards today. I've bought others for rental properties and they generally didn't last. I think Delta is good, although Moen seems to have followers. What's the look of your kitchen...I ask because the retrorenovaton site has a reference to a wonderful American made faucet still manufactured as before. It is super well made, but has an old-fashinied feeling of solidity about it. I plan to use it next in my kitchen when the Grohe finally gives out as they don't make some of the parts anymore for my model. I'll look it up and post it in a bit.
P.s. be sure to get one with a sprayer if you have a large sink. Alsom the soap dispensers from Ikea last as long as the more expensive ones. I couldn't function as well without one.
@ April 30, 2013 5:41 PM in signing a contract for first time...There was a prior thread addressing just this issue. Can't remember if it was under steam or the main wall. You might want to start with steam since that's probably where I saw it. NBC may have started it. I'll look later if I have a chance, but my home computer is fried. CTD
I did a quick search of the Wall under "contract" and I'm sure there's alot of useful info under just that search. I believe the thread in question is on the 1st page, but there is some good advice to be gleaned from a quick look at many of them.
@ April 25, 2013 11:02 PM in The King Of All Crossover Traps!Oh well! I was trying. I am surprised there wasn't a difference, but as you say there is one in delivery and comfort. I'm sure if you're able to make those additional changes, there will be some reduction.
@ April 25, 2013 9:15 PM in The King Of All Crossover Traps!Although consumption was the same, did the calculations account at all for the difference in temps. Here in the Ohio river valley, last year was very mild with a very early spring. From March onwards it was in the 80s. This year, it's more normal ie. cold all winter with a damp, dreary Spring.
@ April 25, 2013 1:43 PM in wicked water hammer and boiling in pipesGreat! I hope you'll let us know the prognosis and post pics of the after. CTD
@ April 23, 2013 5:56 PM in wicked water hammer and boiling in pipesHi Gypsy,
Don't know how I missed this plea for help!
I'm another homeowner and female poster on here so welcome. There are a few of us lurking around, so don't feel lonely and don't ever feel silly for not understanding your system. There are so many different types and that's why this forum exists. Professionals use it, too.
At this point of your saga I would suggest ditching your current plumber if he's not willing to make it right instead of charging you to make it worse. Charles Garrity is one of the most respected and knowledgeable professionals out there and you are VERY lucky if he's near you. I know how it feels to worry about doing it right, but there's no sense in throwing good money after bad. Steam heating works as a system and you must understand the whole thing before messing around with a single element. Your current plumber clearly doesn't.
After you do a bit of reading, I'm sure you'll know more that most people you would call in. Take advantage of the positive here and get CG in for a look-see. He'll help ID what NEEDS to change immediately, and what might be good to change down the line so you can budget for it. There might even be some things you could learn to do yourself.
Then you can learn some maintenance and look forward to the cold weather every year! For some, it's a bit addicting, but sometimes it's just nice when something works.
Btw, I am NOT an expert and am constantly awed by the knowledge everyone has here, but I have learned a lot and you can, too.
@ April 22, 2013 12:51 PM in A Steam Odyssey (Part 2): Midco Low-NOx BurnerMark addressed this issue in Part 1 of his steam odyssey near the end of the thread under "We have ignition". He also then responded to my query "quieter...but quiet?"
It's near the end of the thread.
"As for the Midco burner - absolutely smooth install and startup. And
quiet - at my boiler's rated input I measured 71 dB 18" behind the
blower, compared to 86 dB for the Beckett oil burner."
Thank you for posting the decibels. I've been worried about the loudness
of the power burners, but the two (2) x Riello #G400 series #C8554115
gas power burners I've ordered for the SF TR50s are rated by Riello at
66dcbls. I didn't have anything to compare that to so it looks like it
shouldn't be too bad. I know the Becket oil burner was louder, but would
you consider the 71dcbls to be quiet?
Fantastic job, Jstar.
Looking forward to studying the burner install.
April 20, 2013
@ 4:47 PM
Contact this user
Of course it's all relative but yes, I'd consider 71 db to be pretty
quiet for a running motor. You could hear the Beckett running on the
first floor, and feel it too. Can't hear the Midco on the first floor at
all, except for the 15 second purge cycle when the blower runs at high
speed. In fact, when the Midco is at low fire it's hard to tell it's
running even when you're standing right next to it.
@ April 20, 2013 3:37 PM in A Steam Odyssey: Midco Low-NOx Burner Oil to Gas Conversion ProjectThank you for posting the decibels. I've been worried about the loudness of the power burners, but the two (2) x Riello #G400 series #C8554115 gas power burners I've ordered for the SF TR50s are rated by Riello at 66dcbls. I didn't have anything to compare that to so it looks like it shouldn't be too bad. I know the Becket oil burner was louder, but would you consider the 71dcbls to be quiet?
Fantastic job, Jstar.
Looking forward to studying the burner install.
@ April 16, 2013 5:52 PM in Boiler Room Ceilings: code?Thanks. I'll have to get the specifics tomorrow, but I think I'm good with the clearances by a wide margin. the ceilings are 9ft. tall. It's mainly where the furnace enters the chimney. As you can see in the pic it is right below the ceiling. ( (You can just make out the screws in the ceiling's new drywall. Just so you know at what you're looking.) I suspect I'm looking at concrete board and putting back the metal.
@ April 16, 2013 5:27 PM in Burnham Megasteam sizingUsually adding a HW coil will not affect the sizing of the boiler which should still be based on the attached (or planned) edr. It merely uses the excess capacity that's already included in the boiler size, usually 30% This is needed to warm up all the piping leading to the radiators and the cold metal. It's referred to as the pick-up factor. When you figure out your edr and size the boiler based on that alone, it is ALREADY included in the size of the boiler. Just be sure not to add it in twice.